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Everything posted by SJSoane

  1. I agree with the cumulative measuring idea. One way is to measure from a set point out to every frame. Another way is to draw the frames on a jig at the base of the hull (see below). Either way, every time you place a frame, measure where its face ought to be. If the frame needs thinning down, sand the face on sandpaper glued to a sheet of plywood. That keeps it flat, and you can use calipers to check the thickness of each edge to ensure the two faces are parallel. In my project below, the frames turned out to be varying thicknesses to keep the whole thing the right length as I added to t
  2. Siggi, it is looking great. Is the yellow color a mask for painting? Mark
  3. Alan, I regret buying my plastic full size kayak. Building your's full size would have been much more satisfying! Mark
  4. Gaetan, your shop should be on a Nautical Research Guild tour some day! Mark
  5. Hi Alan, Doing more drawing is how I procrastinate on actually cutting wood! It is becoming a bad habit...🙃 Mark
  6. Gary, Nice to be reminded of your outstanding framing. It is fun to start covering all of this up with planking, etc., but it sure is nice every once in a while to see a hull in full frame in the earlier stages of a build! Mark
  7. A couple more sheets. These are not yet really finished or laid out as final drawings, but they do help pull together a lot of work I have done on more detail. Just in case the electronic world fails, I will have hard copies of the basic information!
  8. Hi druxey, I so wish I could take a jewelry class somewhere. I seen now how exceedingly helpful that would be. Silver soldering still eludes me... Other things in life have taken me away from the shop. But while distracted by other things, it helped clarify my next steps, resolving the numerous chicken and egg issues of what has to come before what. I have concluded that I cannot install the barrels of the guns on the gundeck afterwards. The stool bed and wedged quoin are way too delicate; several have broken off just picking up the carriages. I will need to epoxy the barrels
  9. Michael, Lovely, lovely work. This truly is a work of art. And when did Angus start hanging around the shop? Mark
  10. druxey, a workshop on jewelry making, or miniature metal smithing for ship models, would be a welcome break right now. If only.... Guy, happy to help out. I have learned so much from others on this website, I am glad I can contribute some myself. I am at a crossroads on the Bellona right now. I am trying to think ahead to the order in which things must be done so I don't tangle myself up. I was headed towards installing all of the standards, gun carriages and ironwork, but then thought that cutting the mortises for the decks above would be spraying wood shavings al
  11. Gary, I linked all of my dust collection hoses to one dust collector by putting gates at the back of my workbench, all connected together by PVC pipe underneath the fir covering board. The PVC then hooks up the dust collector. It has an on-off switch powered by the tool turning on, so all of the tools are plugged into a power strip, which is then plugged into the dust collector. That means any tool turning on will turn on the dust collector. Sometimes I forget to open and close the right gates, but I find out soon enough when the dust starts swirling up. When I install
  12. L.H., yes, you guessed it! Marc, here are the cutter and the parallel jaw pliers. The pliers are: https://contenti.com/brass-jaw-flat-nose-parallel-pliers The cutters are Lindstrom 8141, found on this page: https://contenti.com/pliers-cutters-n-shears/jeweler-s-pliers/lindstrom-pliers/lindstrom-80-series-micro-bevel-flush-cutters
  13. Thanks, everyone, for your comments. Marc, the parallel jaw pliers are terrific for flattening a construction without denting the soft metal. And they are not all that expensive, relative to other jeweler's pliers. I found mine at Contenti. Tony, my strainer is plastic, so I hoped that would be OK in the pickle. I did make the mistake at the very end of using the strainer in the baking soda and then putting it back into the pickle without first washing it. So I probably did kill the pickle with that mis-step. I will look into the bar-tender strainers in the future. It w
  14. I vaguely recall an exhibit of the Sutton Hoo ship in the British museum many decades ago, like part of a cast of the dig? Do I remember this correctly, and if so, is it still in the British Museum public exhibits? Mark
  15. Thanks, druxey. Here is a closer look at the marking jig. The ebony pointer slides up between the two side pieces of the shell, and has a screw on the bottom for fine adjustment. And then a screw at the right tightens it down in place. The top screw tightens the entire sliding mechanism against the bar. The empty screw holes were drilled when I used this for the gun deck. They got in the way when I had to shorten the throw for the upper deck. Should have thought ahead way back then.... Mark
  16. druxey, you are right, those parallel pliers are a god-send. Flattens things out without marring the soft copper. And nice capsquares. The giveaway of built up construction is that the join between the flat and the curve comes to a sharp 90 degree corner. Even the best bending still leaves a small radius at this intersection. I have been busy for the last week constructing all of the metal for the gun deck. Easy with jigs, but many, many pieces to make over and over. I learned from YouTube videos how to make the rings, which are called jump rings in the jewelry wor
  17. Gary, nice! Is that little funnel at the end nearest the lathe also part of the Loc Line system? Mark
  18. Spectacular work, Gaetan, both the build and the photographs! Mark
  19. HI Gary, I am also looking for a better dust collector idea for the mill and lathe. My current setup doesn't work very well. The nozzle gets in the way, but at the same time doesn't really stay close enough to pick up much. Mark
  20. Gary, do I see correctly that you have mounted your Digital readout right on the face of your Sherline mill (9th photo down)? Interesting! How did you fasten it on? Mark
  21. druxey, could it be the cap square on that carronade was cast, not bent from sheet? I never thought of doing that. A good way to pick up the detail of the hinge and clasp... I spent a good day bending up eye bolts for the gun carriages. I made a jig inspired by Alex M (HMS Sphinx), who got it from a German modeler Günter Bossong http://www.minisail-ev.de/fibel/fib-03-09/fib-03-09.htm. It has a slot just wide enough for the leg of the eyebolt, and a drill the correct size of the inner diameter of the eye. A piece of copper wire of the correct diameter is bent at ri
  22. Thanks, all fellow OCD people out there. druxey, what missing hinge and latch? Like Gary, I was hoping no one would notice. Could it be they were just printers' smudges in the drawings?😉 I have justified this omission to myself with the story that I need to insert these barrels through the gun ports years from now, and these additional bits will break off before I get there. Maybe, maybe, I will see how to do this for the guns on the upper decks. Gary, I can't pronounce complexititus either. And our British friends would probably have a different pronunciation for it an
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