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Side battens and keel was put in places. Once again all my careful measurements and leveling have paid off with any amazing fit.
By the theme of my photos I would say stock huge amounts of clips to build this kit!

Laying out the frames and assembling the lateral supports. Really spend some time drawing out where the frames need to go. I glued them down with hot glue. Frames 6 and 10 have a specific orientation so be careful with those 2. The parts slid into place. Use epoxy to glue the supports together to keep them flexible.

Frames individually assembled w/ 1/8 inch basswood strip.

Started gluing the frames. Keel pieces are doubled laser cut. 

Thank you all very much for the likes and just for stopping by!
 
The first thing needed to get the Victory in motion are many cleats, which are used everywhere for rigging points.
 
So, I am mass producing cleats:
 
For those who would also like to make their own, I am making mine from popsicle sticks from a craft store.  This works quite well.
 
First, I measure them off and notch them
with a razor saw:

Second, I cut them apart with a razor saw:

Then I draw out the final shape:
 

Next, I trim off the “T” part of the cleat with a scalpel:
Then I cut them apart with a scalpel:

Before you know it you have a whole pile of cleats.

The last step (not done yet) is to trim them all to their final shape and paint them before installation.

Working on boat davits and other deck fittings now:


Those davits don’t quite line up because the brass sheet, which makes up the stern, that I installed nearly 4 years ago isn’t quite lined up correctly.  Oh well, lol, it won’t be noticeable when it’s done.

Making a bunch of cleats for those and for other rigging attachment points.
 
The above davits are the ones that hang the ship’s boats off the sides of the quarterdeck.
 
Those won’t be installed until I finish the quarterdeck fittings to avoid making a mess of the last few rigging fittings, the hammock cranes and the netting.

The lanterns are painted and installed:

I also damaged the flag locker while drilling holes, but it will be okay.  The damage is very minor.
 
Once the glue dries, I’ll paint the supports and touch up the stern, where I damaged it drilling holes.  The stern on this model is a brass sheet, and when I started this model, I didn’t have the skills to make my own.
 
I could make my own now (and will for all my future builds).  

My skill level has increased exponentially during this build.  A lot of those increases have been a result of things that I have learned on this forum.

All 3 lanterns are carved:

 
Making progress:
Next up: painting the lanterns!

The larger one is about 5/8 in or 16mm for the metric types.
The third and final lantern for the stern is roughed out and just needs finished.
 
Then I’ll paint all 3 and figure out how to mount them.

Thank you very much for the likes and just for stopping by!

I set up on the back porch today, to carve outside.  I could not pass up the weather.

The main lantern is carved:

It’s made out random square hardwood stock, that I had, that was the right size.
 
This is the second attempt, the first one failed catastrophically.
 
I’m not the greatest at three dimensional carving, but I’m getting better!
 

The flag lockers are done and a few minor detail pieces have been added.

I rough made the Ensign Staff.  It started out life as a bamboo kitchen skewer.  It still needs the cap piece, to be painted and three sheaves added.

I am done with most of the deck furniture now.
 
I am going to start at the stern and work my way forward, finishing all the rigging fittings, boat davits, remaining hull fittings, hammock cranes, etc.  To that end, I’m going to start with the lanterns and a couple of fittings on the poop deck.

Speaking of the flag lockers:
 
Once they dry, I’ll paint them.

Thank you both very much!  Thank you to everyone for all the likes and just for stopping by!
 
The brackets are trimmed and installed!

The buckets have been hung and glued!

Once they are dry, I will use add some touch up paint.
 
Quick note: this model is 1:98 scale, which is pretty close to the 15mm war gaming scale. I am used to painting and modeling in 28-32mm scale which is approximately 1/56 and 1/48 scale, respectively.  This difference in scale has made a lot of difference for me for this model.
 
Next up, I need to build the chart cabinet.  That will be made out of card.
 
Quick question, would the front of that cabinet have been covered at sea, or would the front of that have been left open?

One pile o’ buckets and brackets!

I made a couple extra brackets, just in case.

Forward progress for the first time in a long time:

The fire buckets are painted and I put a drop of gloss coat in each of them to simulate water.
Next up, several need new handles, and they need brackets, which will be made of annealed wire.

Step one is finish the fire buckets:
 
I am putting them on stick pins and painting them black with a gold “label” on the outside face.

All damage (that I’ve found) is now repaired!

 
Game on!

With this update, I'm now finished through Step 5 of the construction process. The forward companionway and the locker aft of it were easy enough. The superstructure was more challenging. It consists of of two sections, which I prefer rather than having the whole thing as one piece. The forward half had joiners to bridge the gap between the port and starboard walls. But once I got both halves finished and placed them on the deck for a test fit, I discovered that the walls of the forward half were about 1mm too long on each side. So, I had to remove the joiners, trim off the excess length, and re-do the folds -- nothing too difficult, but it took a little time to do carefully and make sure everything fit correctly. I then glued the two sections of wall to the deck, added a replacement joiner to the forward section, and also added some thick cardboard to the insides of the walls to make them straighter and more rigid.
 

 
Next up will be the various life jacket lockers. Incredibly, they actually have the words "life jackets" printed on them, which -- at this scale -- can only be read under high magnification; at normal viewing distances, they just look like a smudge. 😜
 

MODULE #5
 
Alright, time for a few updates. I am leading multiple fights at once with this model and cannot really work one module at a time. So without waiting, let's go to the Module #5.
 
As a summary, here are the sub-assemblies that I have created on this model: 
 
Module #1: the bow or stem - Finished as you could see in previous posts.
Module #2: the Gun and Edgehog - Not much done so far.
Module #3a: The Wheel house. Soon to be unveiled...
Module #3b: The deck - Nothing so far.
Module #4a: The Galley - Almost completed - Mast being developed....
Module #4b: The Funnel house - Completed.
Module #4c: The Dinghies.... a lot to do.
Module #5: We are talking about it below....
Module #6: the stern and the depth charge launchers - Nothing much.
 
The kit was developed around the HMS Agassiz and that particular section of the model does not match the Snowberry. The kit engine room is way too short and the rear platform located between the charge rails and the rear of the engine room is too wide. It looks like a dance floor and does not fit Snowberry.
 

 
When you look at pictures of the Snowberry and actually most reworked Corvette, the engine room is much longer and comes close to the rear of the charge launchers. Modifying these parts is not easy because of the curvature of the cabin and of the decks.
 

 

 
If I was a wizard in Sketchup, I could have taken the existing engine room parts and extended them, before printing. But I am not that wizard. So, we are going to have to do it, in the traditional modeler way: cutting, gluing, sanding....and repeat.
 
Also, Snowberry has a set of inflatable Dinghies/Rafts sitting next to the funnel and two stairs linking the main deck with the rear deck. These aspects are completely missing on the Virtual kit. Some modifications are in order: 
 

 
Here you can see a piece of deck that I printed, using a deck joiner part and changing its size. I sized it exactly at 33 mm wide, 140 mm long and 1.6 mm thick. It fits perfectly between the main deck and the engine room roof, and will provide the base for two ladders/stairs going down to the rear deck. The rest of the space will be used for a couple of rafts.
 

 
Now, we can see that the rear of the engine room is getting more realistic. The additional section is made by printing again the forward engine room walls and cutting the first panel off. These left and right panels are then glued to a second print of the rear wall. That is the beauty of printing your own parts: you can do it as many times as you want.
 
From an aerial perspective, we now have the following: 
 

 
Below is the details of the engine room roofs: 
 

 
The rails provide a way to fit the roof in place and hold it tight, until its permanent gluing. Painted: 
 

 
Another major milestone, once everything has been fitted and tested many times, is the gluing of the engine room to the hull. Here again, I would recommend keeping all the hull join parts intact, as they are very useful to hold everything in place: 
 

 
Notice how well the kit is designed with the perfect indentation of the engine room walls into the very thick deck of Module #4: 
 

 
Then the 1.6 mm thickness of the engine room deck, fits perfectly flush with the main deck. More pictures of this major milestone: 
 

 

 

 
The U shape profile is used to prevent the sagging of the engine room walls, when you install the wooden decks.
 

 

 
Hope you enjoy.
 
Yves
 
 
 
 
 

The display stand has been finalized: 
 

 
The ship is secured by two #10 bolts and rests on soft piece of Balsa wood, stained with cherry wood color.
 

 

 

 

 
It may not be the prettiest display stand, but it it is sturdy and allows me to store the project vertically: 
 

 
It even holds by itself.....
 

 
I will keep using the Kit provided stand to work on the model. It is a lot lighter and more maneuverable: 
 

 
Yves
 
 
 
 

I wanted to publish these pictures which are showing some interesting perspectives. Both vessels are at the same scale 1/48th, and have been the epitome of nemesis: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
It makes for an interesting comparison.
 
Yves

Hello to MSW & NRG!
 
My last twelve hours have been spent constructing the keel, deck & keel supports, bulkheads, and bulkhead frames. The images I will show demonstrate a rough hull beginning to take shape. I am certain glue and wood filler is very much visible in my attachments, but for me, I have constructed this manner for additional strength. The directions state epoxy or my choice of adhesives and all that was present for me beginning the hull was Tite-bond wood glue. Although the glue is water soluble I add epoxy at a later stage for waterproof qualities. I have also included a bow block to shape and begin planking within a day or so. I must state as well, my learning curve I have created goes beyond instructional materials. I love to research the adhesive qualities of various forms. I also love to improvise when necessary. At any rate, I am displaying three construction images that are rough, but I have begun. I am also including an image for a yachting model I am designing to build myself as another model for a personal appeal and goal. I welcome all friendly faces to see for yourself but please bear in mind, no sanding has been completed. There does remain much, much sanding to perform. To make the job easier I am using a Proxon modeling belt sander to sand all wood-filler and glue spots to a smoother finish. Upon completion of this I will be painting the heel, and bulkheads white glossy. 
 
This is an interesting model in the design features that the vessel does not sink in a rough sea state and resistance is minimal. I have always had a love for the Coast Guard lifeboats because they cut the water fiercely fine and the powerplant powerful enough to accomplish her mission of saving lives at sea, coastal areas, and even rivers. I will be engaging more and more into research of this fine watercraft vessel. A powerhouse of life-saving equipment and I want one for recreational purposes. 

Major milestone today, with the permanent gluing of the floor (Deck #4) of Module 4 on the hull: 
 

 
This piece of deck is very stiff and thick: 3 mm!  It brings an additional stiffness to the hull (not that it would need it...). It is glued after careful placement of the forward sections of decks (#2 and #3). Deck #4 holds the tall funnel but more importantly the mast. As such it must be strong and resilient. Note that Deck #4 also rests and is glued to the large white couplings, used to connect the hull sections.
 

 
The Deck section #3 holds the wheel house and the very top heavy deck. It is made of PLA of only 1.5 mm and may sag a little bit, under the load. To prevent this problem and make sure that the decks #3 and #4 sit perfectly flush, I have added some support in the front of Deck #4. This is made using the "Deck_D_Lip" part with a 1.5 mm strip of styrene on top: 
 

 
With this approach, the deck #3 sits perfectly flat and flush with deck #4.
 
You could glue all the decks at once and be done with them. But then, working on each independent section becomes a challenge as this hull is large. I'd rather work on a small section at a time and then place it on the hull, once it is finished.
 
Yves
 
 

Some pictures of the Galley: 
 

 

 
The galley combined with the other structure: 
 

 

 

 
Overall view of the beast, as it stands today. I have not glued the Module #4 yet. Most likely, I will first glue the floor, then each of the small superstructure on it. Then, there are still a few details to be added, dinghys, davits, stanchions and other little stuff. The mast will come later on as it quite prominent on that model.
 

 
Yves

I have to agree. It is the galley. However the galley has an “extension” . See photo.