gieb8688

Hi Will,
 
Here's how I did it for my Victory:
Cut planks to length, sandwich about 20 of them together between stiffening pieces and clamp together. Lightly spray paint edges and ends with flat black.  Remove from stack and lightly sand edges and faces to remove overspray and to lighten the dark paint. I made a jig that holds the individual planks, and two sliding templates (one for the end pattern, and another for the middle pattern of trunnels).  Use a small pencil to simulate the trunnels (I didn't want them too dark).
 
After gluing in place, sometimes the planks are uneven in height.  I broke off the last couple of inches of an old mill bastard file and epoxied a small handle to it (see last photo).  This is used as a small plane to even out the tops of the planks after installation.  Some trunnels may need to be redone after planing.
 
Regards, Ted
 

Okay, So now that the upper gun deck "subfloor" is glued, it's on to the planking.

(The blue stuff is Bondo - I had a low spot I didn't see until after the glue dried.)
 
I tested a mix of 1 pad of 000 steel wool completely dissolved in 1 liter white vinegar on a single maple plank supplied with the kit.  Two dips seemed to get me the weathered grey I wanted.  

Per the manual, I cut a pile of planks to 85mm and started rubbing the edges with a pencil to simulate caulking. (Found this tip in numerous places on the forums)

After getting into it a bit, I have identified some problems with this method of caulking:
I tried laying out my deck planking on a piece of upturned painter's tape before installation.  All of it is pretty heavily smudged.  I'm hoping that my vinegar-wool mix will take care of this. I read somewhere else that sanding just seems to make it worse. (Anyone just try an eraser? -It is indeed pencil...)
This seems to be a neurotically tedious process. 10-12 hours to "caulk" planking enough to cover two pieces of painter's tape each 2 inches wide by 30 inches long. Finger food is out of the question; I also read somewhere that the average human unconsciously touches their face an average of 23 times an hour.  This must be true as I now look like I dropped acid before visiting the cosmetics counter.
 
I'm not planning to simulate nails here as I do not readily see nails in any of the Victory photos I found on the web.
I really appreciate everyone's input. - Especially when you see me making a mistake!
Is anyone aware of another way of simulating/laying out/installing the deck planking?
 
Has anyone tried mixing graphite powder with glue and then individually squeezing the planks into place in such a way so that the glue extrudes a little bit up through the cracks for example?  Is there a faster way?

Once the copper is all done, assuming it doesn't have some kind of coating on it, just clean it real good with acetone and it will develop a nice patina in a few months.
 
If you  want something a little faster, put it in an enclosed space with a few chopped boiled eggs..
Check every few hours untill it looks like you want.
 

 
This is copper leaf that I put in a bag with a chopped boiled egg overnight..

I think I screwed up here.  I carefully placed my first "second" planks according to Caldercraft's manual, but since it never really addressed what to do about gun ports at this point.  I just left a small piece of plank out at each of the lower ports thinking I could cut everything back to the edges of the openings in the underlying plywood patterns later.  Um...  Any ideas?  Anyone know if Dremel makes a tiny flush cut "guide" router bit?

Thank you both!
 
Chris - Very cool canoe; and I'll be keeping an eye on your PWS-10 build as well.
Ben - Your Sherbourne model looks incredible.  Such clean, concise lines!
 
I really appreciate your input and encouragement.  I went into the planking with the best of intentions, but even after reading and understanding everything available, my plank symmetry and uniform width plan never made it past about the 5th strake.  At least I wound up with a straight keel.
 
See below for today's final shot.
After sanding all planking flush with 120#, I mixed some walnut filler to sour cream consistency before working it in to the hull with some gloves and an old credit card.  While waiting for the filler to dry, it occurred to me that the brass double door hinge straps (See photos above) at the stern were going to need to come off for two reasons:
They were a mess! - "Free-handing" these into place with tweezers just isn't going to cut it.  Next time I'll try placing them with tape. On second thought, and contrary to the build manual, I think it would be far easier to paint that stern area first rather than having to paint around them. After the filler dried, I sanded again, ending at a final grit of 2000 this time.
 
Ben - How do you get a uniform amount of glue on each tile? I have never done it before, but it would seem too little wouldn't be good and too much would be worse.  Or is this a case of just try it a few times and I'll get it?

Hi All,
 
I just joined today after starting a build several months ago and would greatly appreciate any and all input.
 
Questions for everyone:
Would one or two of you be willing to act a as mentor for this build?  Caldercraft seems to be a tad vague sometimes about when to paint what for example. Does anyone have any specific suggestions regarding hull treatments before I install the copper tiles? Do I need to apply a thin hand-rubbed coat of polyurethane first?  If so, water-base or oil? I found an assembly guide for copper tiling DeAgostini's kit.  They recommend using a glue from England.  (Solvent-free contact adhesive.)  What does this equate to here in the States?  I'm looking for something in stock at my local Home Depot.  
Thank you Guys!

Some progress on the fore mast.
 
The different parts (fore lower mast, fore topmast, fore topgallant mast, fore lower top, fore topmast top and hand mast) have been constructed. Again quite some sorting out, especially with regard to the sheaves that are let in the different mast sections.
First  view with the under  side of the tops:
 
 
And the top side of the tops and fore mast cap:
 
 
The tops in detail. The crosstrees taper on the under side and the trestletrees ends are snaped and rounded.
Sheaves for the main topgallant bowlines are put in the after end of the trestletrees. (the topmast trestletree of the main mast will have those sheaves in the fore end).
The cap has four blocks. Aft/underneath for the fore topmast yard cluelines. The span in the middle for the fore lower yard lifts. 
 
 
 
The topmast has two sheaves (called top rope sheaves): the lower on the block, running diagonally from forward port face to after starboard face. The upper above the heeling on the opposing diagonal plan from the lower one.  The sheaves had ropes to lower the topmast (acc. to Zu Mondfeld).
 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              . 
 
The topgallant mast has four sheaves: one top rope sheave just above the heeling, again diagonally starboard forward to after port.
 
 
Other sheaves according to McKay, 
 
 
Next step: assembling the fore mast, and attach battens, check blocks and some other blocks

And I changed the iron bands, for them to be under the rubbing paunch:
 
 
Should be okay now
 
 

A few modifications.
Changing the blocks on the bowsprit from deadeyes to closed heart. (neither sounds nice in real life...)
First how I seized the blocks; the challenge is to have a tight fit around the bowsprit and having the blocks in the right place.
The first is already fitted.
 
 
 
It takes some calculations to know the distances, but one knows the diameter of the bowsprit and circumference is Pi times diameter.
A 0,25mm thread through the 0.40mm thread.
 
 
Back at the right distances for the circumference of the block plus the siezing
 
 
Block in a third hand with the thick thread at the back
 
 
Tightening the knot
 
 
Putting both ends in a alligator clamp
 
 
Siezing the rope
 
 
And the second block in place
 
 
Now the third block and a slipping connections to tighten the rope around the bowsprit
 
Both ends in clamps
 
 
One end back to the block, as a loop, because it will be included in the siezing
 
 
There is the loop:
 
 
Tighten the rope by slipping the free end through the siezing, CA glue and cutting the end off.
 
 
 

Lifeboat...  mmm I did enjoyed it.

That is a lovely job on the cannon rigging. It doesn't look out of scale, one of the best I have seen.

Found a serious mistake during my last build. Due to confusing drawings/instruction I didn't see that the top wale is to follow the outer front deck plank.
So then I first I have to figure out how high the outer plank is to be. Since there are some mismatch on instruction, drawing and part.
Nothing is glued, just laid out for showing the situation. The plank is also wrong dimension due to to small drawings, so I will have to make some new.
 

The part size is way of.
 

 
When measuring on drawing there is a mismatch with instruction, so I'm a LITTLE frustrated.
 
When I have put together the top plank, I will need to cut away the necessary length of the wale, scape of paint, glue on new wale and paint it.
I feel sometimes that i take 3 step forth and than 2 back. This was done before I got the Bounty book and I will defiantly use the book all the time from now onward. 
 
Learning: read everything at least twice and stop up and think if everything is correct before acting. 😉
 

Trond, don't get frustrated. Hopefully this is the first of many model ships that you'll make. This first model is a learning experience and you're doing very well. 

Hello everyone, work still continues on the shrouds with the foremast tackled, also rigged the main topmast stays (i was going to use small blocks to guide them at the foremast head, but just used the eyes i had placed on the masthead in the end) they are lashed to eyebolts on the deck at the base of the foremast. I have just realised i omitted to mention the hearts used on the mainstay are the model shipyard 3 part card ones (will use them on the forestays as well on the bowsprit when time comes), also for the lower shrouds i used some 0.8mm thread from another build as opposed to the occre 0.5mm which i have used on the topmast shrouds.
 

 

 
take care everyone
 
Keith

Thanks for looking in as always. Work continues on the shrouds with the main top mast shrouds now rigged, next i will rig the topmast stays (need to rig a temp. forestay first). Also rigged the hearts on the main stay and preventer stay. The strops on the deadeye plates will be for the topgallant shrouds to be lashed to.
 

 

 
Take care all
 
Keith

Airbrushed a shadow line in a rust colour just below the white band to suggest that part of the hull that would often sit above the waterline and be less weathered by the sea. Satin spray finish on the hull to protect it. Now I can get going on the deck.
 

Thanks Jean-Paul and G.L...Ebonizing is a piece of cake once you’ve prepared the two necessary solutions.  It is accomplished by the reaction between iron acetate and tannin.  For the acetate I submerge a clump of fine raw prewashed steel wool in a plastic container containing 10% (double strength) cleaning vinegar. Put holes in lid for offgassing and leave for a week and then filter using a coffee filter. For the tannin I steeped a dozen tea bags in a cup or so of water to make ridiculously strong tea. 
The tannin solution is the key to the process.
When you’ve concocted these two witches’ brews paint the wood with the tannin solution first, let soak in for a few minutes, then paint on the acetate. Let that dry, and then apply the tannin solution again and your wood will magically be dead black and ready for any finish.
 

Installed all the timber heads and gunwale. Decided on painting the bulwarks white just because that’s what I usually see on fishing boats.  A little harder to do well since white shows up every defect on an assembly. Laid on the basic hull colours, and may do some weathering with the airbrush before applying a final finish. The walnut hull seemed too nice to completely paint over so I’ve used a rust coloured stain for the underwater, which lets the grain and planking come through, and for the upper I used an ebonizing technique which transforms wood to a really deep black without hiding the texture of the planks. Not sure it really comes through in the pictures but i think it has been pretty successful. If anyone wants particulars on how this is done I can provide details on the technique I use, after some trial and error in the past.
 
 

With the rubbing strakes on, Fifie’s basic hull is finished and ready for painting. Think I’ll fashion the rudder next so that I can paint everything in one go, before I start on the deck.

And the planking is done. The frame is nice and sturdy to work on, no real issues with second layer just a little finish sanding and then on to some more interesting bits. The walnut is pretty nice seems a shame to cover it all with paint so I’m thinking about my finishing strategy. Kind of looks like a stubby fat cedar strip canoe at the moment.

A 1mm trim piece is placed on both sides of the keel, which creates a border for the final planks to finish flush against. This eliminates any need for fussing with a groove (rabbet) in the false keel. The underplanking only needs to be feathered to the false keel before placing the trims.
The under planking didn't need much in the way of sanding or filling, so I can start the finish planking as soon as I can get back in the cabin.

Well, first of all apologies for not updating my post. Last was September 2018 ! 
However I have an excuse as I moved home which has been the most stressful thing I have ever done.
My Agamemnon suffered in the move and it’s taken me a while to repair and get sorted, mainly surface damage but nothing which can’t be repaired. 
I have added the qtr galleries and both wale lines. However I think I have added an extra line of 3mm walnut so might remove ? 
I have missed working on my Abby soo much but I am looking forward to continuing.
 
 

the .50 cal parts........I got extras for these,  just in case.  the plastic used is suggested that it is somewhat brittle,  and care should be taken to remove the part from the tree.

the carriages,  the ammo / belts,  and the actual guns

 

these are the .50 cal tub parts and the turrets tubes supplied in the kit.

 

these are the 20 mm gun parts.

 

more to come  
 

Hi - another small update.  The 3 deck railings were assembled & painted along with the belfry.  Pretty straightforward, as all parts were laser cut.  They were all glued down to the edges of the decks.  The poop deck railing will get some hammock cranes & sand buckets, which will be added later.  The quarter deck railing will also get some cranes added later.
 

 

 

 
Mark