minimini

The model has become decidedly more rigid and stable .....
 

The model is now of extreme fragility and therefore I thought of starting the coating of the dead work:
 

Hello and thank you all for your likes and comments,
 
today, the gun deck got his guns 😊
To get all at the same high

and that they are

The port side guns, from my mothers side I'm Prussia

And here they are on board. The decks where very curved in those days

I just received word that the group is now officially open.
 
To get access one must go to the NRG Store  and supply your Model Ship World (MSW) user name and proceed to pay the $15 access charge. Upon receipt of the payment the NRG Office will notify Chuck to grant access to you.  Chuck will permit access by sending you an invitation to the private downloads area.  Please allow a few days as Chuck is the only one able to provide access.  You will see your invitation in the notifications area at the top of the screen.  Its the same place that notifies you if there are replies to topics you are following etc.  Once you click on your invitation you will be taken to a screen that says "Accept Chucks invitation"  Or "turn down Chucks invitation".
 
DONT click on "turn down invitation".  Click the other one.  
 
Once you have access you can access and download the plans at any time – your access is perpetual.
 
We are excited to bring this project and hope to see some new build logs soon.  Please start one and join in on all the fun.
 
 
If you have trouble finding the HMS Winchelsea downloads area after getting your invitation please contact Chuck via PM. 
 
Let me know if you have any questions.  Happy modelling!!!!
 
and DONT FORGET TO READ THE COPYRIGHT AGREEMENT.    By joining the group you agree to abide by the use policy rules set up for the of the plans.

Thank you druxey. I am very happy every time I finish a complicated piece. But then comes another one, no less complicated. And so on. For example next pieces - outer counter timbers.

All frames are glued to the keel, now is time to sand the inner part of the hull.

after the glue on the false keel was dry it was time to fit the rabbet strips   and complete the stempost   and when I was done with that I  decided to assemble the bow fillers how they looked before they were assembled   and after    and finally how they will look when they are put on the keel   Michael      

Mtaylor and Druxey you  are right it was a tough decision, and that was why it took so long to decide
 
a small update the false keel ar glued together

 
and I have started on the stempost

 
Regards
Michael
 

now I think is time for a little up date on this model, I decided to throw the old model out and start over again why ? because I made too many mistakes as I made the first drawings, so instead of to constantly correct errors on the error on the old model I decided to start over.
I've created a set of new drawings and finish cutting the new parts
 

 

 

 

 
the last image is of the false keel of a Danish 74 scale 1:48 the small model is a Danish gunboat also in 1:48
 

 
Regardes
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 

Hi All
 
first thanks for the likes and all the feedback I got on this build.
 
I do have and update on the starboard side, this is how she looks today
 

 

 
and this is how the port side looked this morning
 

 
but then I realized that Imade a big mistake on the port wall  it sits 1 to 1.5 mm too low, but only in the middle about 8 cm on  both sides of the ded fladt frem. so this is hou she look like now
 

 

 

 
sometimes it feels like it's one step forward and two back
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 

finished with the first two layers of paint on the starboard wall
 

 

 

 
Michael

Hi all
 
I think it's time for a little update on the HDMS FREYA. the main wall on the starboard side is finished , but it took a few attempts before I it was done rigth.
the first time I used the wrong wood ( boxwood not  E-beech ) and it was the wrong size to. 6.5mm x 3mm and not the 7 x 3.2mm that I need.
 

 
but it has now been corrected
 

 

 

 

 
Michael
 
 
 

Hi All
 
so on to the main wale,decided to nail a strip of wood on the hull to get the run of the wale, next I will glue 2 out of the 3 rows of 7 x 3 mm on. I do the third one after I rebuilt  a few of the gun port.
 

 

 

 
Michael
 
 

Hi All
 
finished plankning the lower counter. I use 2mm x 3mm boxwood, next is the main wale, which will be made of 7mm x 3.2mm beech.
and as  I'm going to paint the wale , I will not do any Treenailing ther.
 

 

 
Michael
 
 
 

Hi All
 
a few pic. of my wood, the first one is my E Beech and second one is my Boxwood all is from  HobbyMill
 

 

 
Michael
 

Hi All
 
the stern start getting its shape, next is to sand the wing transom and the top filling pieces and when I'm done with that , I think I will plank the lower counter.
 

 

 

 
Michael

Hi all
 
just a few pic.
 

 

 

 

 
Michael
 

Hi All
just a small update the build board is ready

and I decided to dry fit all the bulkheads



 
and finally the first 4 build board ar glued on.


 
Michael

while waiting for the glue to dry I decided to do the fairing on bulkheads L , M And N the 3 foremost bulkheads  before I glue them on

 
Michael

... And this is the moment when I would really love to have a CNC mill - for repetitive and precise tasks...
Ok, even a regular mill is better than trying to do it by hand
Surprisingly, drilling with a mill bit works better than with a wood drill bit. No idea why, maybe the speed is too high for a drill bit. It causes burning and some chip-out on the back side of the hole, while a milling bit just pushes fibers outside without causing them to chip out.

 
The fuzzy fibers are easily cleaned up later with a knife.

 
Mill is pretty amazing for the precise work, I really love the control and having everything square in all directions!
 
 


 
Current state of things. The wisdom says that you can never have too many clamps, challenge accepted!  


 

Hi, I finished cutting all the square frames pieces.

This summer I had a perfect plan - send off the family to their parent/grandparents in July, and enjoy the hobby in the evenings. "Ha ha oh come on" said my work life, and I ended up with a series of business trips instead  Some of them were good though, can't complain.
 
I am still making the "Tosti-style" clamps. 
Drilling the holes on a mill:

To prevent the drill bit from slipping to the side of the rod - I flatten it with a file first:

That method is simple and works well enough.
Thread is tapped manually, no problems with that approach:

 
Then slicing this rod with a Knupfer slitting blade. It is really great, cuts brass like butter, I am impressed!

 
Cutting the thread in a thin (3mm) rod is trickier though. Frequently the thread is being cut off-center, resulting in a wobble closer to the center of the rod. Googled a bit, most common reasons are incorrect angle, uneven feed, etc.
 
I found a method that works well in the end. Die is placed on top of the benchdog hole, vaccuum is placed below it, and everything is held in place purely with a vaccuum.

In action:

Being on a flat surface, it is easy to control the angle and is easy to apply a steady pressure. As a bonus, air flow immediately cools both die and rod, and all chips are sucked into the vac.
The end result is a clean and straight rod (on top), versus wobbly alternative (the same die was used for both rods):

 
I am nearly done with metalwork, but now my left-handed die died (no pun intended), it cuts a larger radius and gets a lot of resistance - I broke two rods when trying to cut that thread  Ordered a new die, will cut the clamp jaws in a meanwhile. 

 
P.S.: machining is, actually, quite hard! You can't sand away the excess or cover gaps with sawdust and glue mixture. There is only one chance to do things right.

Thanks Dirk
 
For nails I used 10lb black fishing line.  Holes were drilled with a #77 drill bit.  Then a sanded the holes lightly to remove any burrs from drilling.  The fishing line was dipped in titebond and inserted into each hole.  I worked on one frame at a time as shown.   Once dry they were sliced clean away with a straight razor.  Then some light sanding.   Thats it.
 
The port side is completed now and I am really hope to get the starboard side done quickly.   We shall see.  More pics below.
 

 



 
 
 
Chuck

Thank you aviaamator, some photos of work start on the cant frame. A greeting