bhermann

Did a try with soft plastic and CA with wood. I am surprised!
It sticks!
I did my trial with the type of soft plastic covering containers from the bakery of your store.
Now here is the question: What type of blue to use?
I am using Vallejo paint, and have several blues.
Guess a sample plate with all the blue has to be done. The blue appears different on clear plastic versus wood. 

Creating the skylights involved a lot of light hand work.
I used my shaver type blade of saw, cut down into the frame work and added the brass strings.

 
I used a tine spot of CA to glue them into place.

 
The strings doesn't look straight in close up, 
 
The Proxxon vise became handy here, once glued I used the vise and pressed all the strings into place.

After hand the brass strings looks over-dimensioned. At least at close up.
From a distance it isn't to bad. 

Bob, thank you for the constructive comment. You certainly have a good point there.
I am going to to try that idea.

Regarding the bars on the skylight window, I tried this out using thin thin brass wire.
The inner opening is 14 mm, so I added 10 wires.
With the macro photo none of the strings are straight, but from 2ft / 36cm I have a hard time to tell.
I will try to straighten them out a little more.
My idea of this setup is:
double sided tape - lay the strings down -  matching about 1.5mm on center.

place the frame down on top

 
add glue  - press all the pieces into place, using a cover plate and lots of weight

Will this turn out okay?
Once it's done -  I will know

More work has progressed during the last couple of days,
this was tricky to work out. 
But I got it finally.




 

Hi Per thanks for looking in and commenting on my build, I do love to highly detail my models and it has taken a few years to get to this stage, and I do agree with you regarding learning from others, have learnt from many 👍
 
 
Welcome to MSW Paul, look around the site and you will see a lot of amazing builds going on and please do not be intimidated by what I or others make, as I said to Per I love to figure out and make detailed pieces.
And thanks very much for your kind comment.
   
 
Totally agree you have to have tools to make parts as I do, but also have the knowledge to work the tools and this comes by practice, practice and more practice and a lot of patience 
 
 
Weathering does bring out the model and have done it on plastic models but have not seen any done on wooden ships 🤔 so will have to experiment on some old parts which I have made before trying on the Bluenose.
 
This is what I did to my 1:24  scratch built Jeep, was worried that I put to much weathering on it but I think it came out not to bad.
 
 
 

 

 
Regards
Richard

Back to my dear Bluenose, working on all deck details.

Jond
 
Thanks for you kind words, we all bring a different set of skills to this hobby and it is fun to see the varied techniques people use.  I am an engineer by trade and have been using 3D modeling software for over 20 years.  I enjoy building the ship on the computer and then seeing the real deal come to shape.
 
I echo everything Allen above has said.  I would consider my adventure with the planner a failed experiement for accurate and repeatable thicknesses of thin wood strips.   The thickness sander is the way to go and I have heard several people speak highly of the Byrnes thickness sander, if you have one on order, good for you.  I ended up buying a real nice table saw with an excellent adjustable fence.  I use a thin veneer blade that makes very clean cuts with minimal waste.  The trick is to take as much time as you need to adjust the table saw and make everything true, but once it is dialed in, the cuts are nearly perfect and highly repeatable.  I then use a 4 inch Dremel table saw to make the final cuts to width.
 
As far as the wood goes, I am probably not the best person to take advice from.  This is my first Plank on Frame (POF) attempt and I did not know how successful I would be so I chose an inexpensive, readily available wood for the framing.  I used white pine available down at my lumber yard.  I searched for quarter sawn planks with small tight grain running vertically when viewed from the end.  I will use sitka spruce for my planking and hard maple for the rails.  I have both of these woods here in the workshop left over from some luthier projects.
 
Thanks for the picture of the clamps and shelves, pretty neat.  You can see alot of the ship structure, the frames with their futtocks, the deck beams and the outer hull planking.  Cool.
 
Below is an update on my progress, I am working on the deck beams.  

 

 

Thanks very much Keith and your build is absolutely exceptionally good as well 👍
Hope it helps you in your build Richard
Thanks Robin did make with a few knocks as I see in the pictures, still thinking of maybe doing a bit of weathering 
Thanks Michael that is very nice of you to say  
Love the metal work as well Joe, but also I do love doing the woodwork isn't it a great hobby
 You are right Richard the kit supplied white metal parts are not up to par which is a shame 
Thanks Mugje 
 
Thanks a lot mate just trying to get it to look right really.
 

 
Again thanks for your comments and to everyone for the likes
 
Regards
Richard
 

For the symmetrical tapers I use a similar sanding technique (because I didn't trust myself to keep from removing too much material if I tried the "chuck the dowel in the drill" method I have read about.
 
First I lay the spar on the plan and mark corresponding points on the mast and the plan.


 
The I use the caliper to measure the width of the mast at one of the points
 

 
and to transfer the width mechanically to the dowel.
 

 
This spar has had several locations marked and transferred.
 

 
Then into the vice for removing excess material as I did for the asymmetrical tapers.  I do this in 4 different planes to form a square section which is then sanded round to finish up.
 

 
And here is the result.  The top of the mast will be shaped later to form the ball that belongs there.
 

 
After shaping, staining and painting (and a bunch of other work) this is what they look like.
 

 
Bob
 

Couple of small updates starting with the guard to go over the windlass gears, does not look much but I suppose it stopped fingers/hands or rope/chain from jamming 🤔
Sheared .003" brass sheet bent to shape and then soldered the top bracket on, was just a little short so soldered a small piece to the bottom, after that drilled four .011" holes so that I could add some .4 mm Philip screws, will blacken it later.  
 

 

 
Next up was the windlass brakes so started with the brake beam used this picture and drawings provided to come up with the shape,  machined the base out of 1/8" sq brass bottom is .014" and sides are .010" then made the beam out of 3/32" sq brass, drill the hole for the mount first then machined the side stiffeners after that I filed to shape, filed ends so that I could fit 1/16" sq tubing these were cut to .098" long and then soldered to each end also cut a piece of tubing and that got soldered to the mounting hole, once this was done I cut the small reinforcement bar at each end were handle will go from 3/32" brass tube and soldered them on and gave it a go clean up.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Made the small brackets for connecting links from .10" brass then made a jig so that I could soldered them on
 

 
Held it down so nothing moves and bingo it worked 
 

 
Will blacken it later, pic with kit supplied part
 

 

 

 
Next up is to make two of these ratchet quadrants then shackles and links
 

 
Thanks everyone for all the comments and likes much appreciated until next time.
 
Regards
Richard  
 
 

Deck furniture looks great Per. Some day we will finish our builds huh? 😉

Work continues on the Bluenose. For everyone's reference, here is a photo of the original that has informed some of my choices in how the model has turned out so far:
 

 
I am not trying to precisely emulate the image, but rather used it as a guide as I continue to work on the model. My intention was to give the model a post-race kind of appearance, with the ship dressed and as a result, I initially chose to run my string of signal flags up the foremast's flag halyard, creating this appearance:
 

 
But to be completely honest, I wasn't happy with how this made the model look as the flags are mostly hidden if viewed from the starboard side of the schooner so I pulled them down and considered my options. In the inspiration image, there does not appear to be much appreciable rhyme or reason to where the crew put signal flags when dressing the ship, so I thought on this for a while before arriving at a different solution...
 

 
...which I am far happier with. The model looks dressed and the flags are visible from port and starboard. I put way too much work into those for them to be hidden away!
 

 
And here's the model as of late last week. I'm currently working on the downhauls and halyards in a few places, and then it's on to shrouds. When those are done, it will be time to mount and display the model... it's hard to believe that the end is this close.

My masts, booms and gaffs are pretty much ready and it looks like I'm into the rigging now.
 
All of the blocks on the Bluenose were internally stropped and it appears from old photos that they were all painted white. This is a detail that I wanted to include. There seem to be two options for internally stropped blocks: one is the wooden ones from Syren and the other is the cast metal ones from BlueJacket. I weighed the pros and cons of each and in the end settled on the BlueJacket ones for two reasons. The first is the Syren ones are not available in the smallest size that is called for on the Bluenose plus they are so exquisite that I didn't think I had the heart to paint them. On the other hand, the BlueJacket ones are available in all the specified sizes and they are intended to be painted, so they seemed the right choice for this project.
 

 
Many of the blocks on the Bluenose were attached with shackles. I have no confidence in my ability to replicate them skillfully enough at this scale, so I have opted to seize the blocks to eyebolts which I know will look better in the end.
 
The bowsprit is installed and rigged, including my fake turnbuckles -
 

 
The foremast is held in place with temporary "stays" while I start in on the lower shrouds

 

 

 
That's it for now.
Thanks,
David
 

Bob, I  don't mind at all.
Yes, that's what I did. It was the stanchions I  did it to. But they were cut of after the planking was done and replaced.

Per, if I may.  I suspect John is referring to the tops of the bulkheads that become some of the deck stanchions.  My recollection is that the kit-provided bulkheads were thicker than the stanchion dimension, and that is the reason for thinning the top of the bulkhead above where the decking is laid, to make those tops the same thickness as the stanchions.
 
For my build (many years back) I simply cut off all the bulkhead extensions and installed new stanchions above the deck from end to end.
 
If I'm wrong, John will post a reference to the post he is talking about, and we'll move on from there
 
Bob

After letting the shrouds and lanyards sit overnight, I adjusted the tension where needed and let it sit again for a few days.  Then I checked the tension and alignment of the mizzen against the other mast again. this time I got a better photo.  The caps are lined up, the tops are lined up and the royals and sky are lined up.  I'm sure that they never were on the actual ship.  But I tried to keep the rigging ship shaped     For reference, the only square sails set thus far are on the fore mast.
 

 

 
thanks for  looking!!

With the mizzen stepped.  I checked the alignment of the mizzen mast against the other mast and a pumb bob.  You probably can't see the plumb bob and string well - it has a white string.  I can see if fine in person.  Also, I know the  photo isn't lined up with the center line. sorry.  i took it with my phone instead of my camera.  Looks like I need to go back to using my camera. 
 

 
With the mast lined up, I started the mizzen shrouds.  I'm using forceps to keep tension on the dead eye lanyards. 

 
 

Hi Bob,
I been getting up to speed on your build.  Great details. She's very impressive!  Can't wait to see the sails. 
 
best
marc 

On to bending the driver.  I wanted to have the driver attached before stepping the mizzen.  I made more hanks using the jig described earlier in the log.  why I didn't make all of the hanks at the same time, I'll never know! I built the channel for the hanks to slide on as well as attached the hanks to the driver.  I used photos of the cutty to make sure of the detail. I have an observation. I shot around 200 photos and still don't have the shots that I need. 
 

 
 
With the driver rigged, I stepped the mizzen mast.  I used toothpicks for the wedges.  

 
Thanks for looking!!
marc

So a quick update on my progress. I have completed all the channels. I also closed of the rear 3 gun ports on both sides and installed the quarter davits. The quarter davits were pretty straight forward as they were all kit parts for the most part. I have a few more hull details to work on going forward. The steps leading up to the entry ways, the studding boom brackets (no clue yet on how to do these), the rudder and then the bow carvings. I've put the bow carvings off for a while now. I'm not sure yet about how I will do them as the kit provided part isn't ideal. This would have been a good place for a photo etch part. As with a lot of things I've had to do for this model, just about everything I'm doing on this model from this point forward is the first time I'm doing it like ever, so I must proceed with caution.
 
The channels.

The quarter davits. 

Boat time again!
 
I had previously attached the boats to the chalks and checked it's location and fit of the supports with the pinrails.  I continued with adding the lines and chains, fastening the boats to the eyebolts.   As you can see, I did the work off the ship using some plastic containers to allow me easy access to all of the eyebolts.  The next step will be adding the studding sail yards, spars, and accommodation davit.  If I can fit all of that stuff on the beams. 

 

 

 


 
 

hello everyone,
 
thanks for your support Harry!  I've been learning to use the lathe.  I've been accomplishing turning threads at the correct pitch and turning rods to the correct diameter within a 1/10000 of an inch. I have a way to go to before tackling anything of substance.  working on skills.  I'd like to make some parts for my tiny wood working lathe (like a following rest) and make some jigs for modeling.  Eventually I want to turn the ships bells, stanchions for the rails, sheaves and maybe cannon and  belaying pins. 
 
Sorry, I haven't posted.  Unfortunately, I've been working long hours as a result of COVID-19 and when I've had time off, I wasn't overly productive and didn't feel like being in front of a computer screen.  I don't think I checked email more than once a month.   Anyway, I have worked on the Model some when I can get myself motivated - seem to be in a funk and extremely tired.  Then I moved my home work environment from my house in Virginia to my house in Florida for the month. 
 
On to rigging - 
I continued work on rigging the mainmast.  I continued with rigging the ratlines, using templates created for both sides.   

 
The template is designed to be up against the shrouds to align the ratlines. The view of the template isn't aligned with the ratlines in the photo (its leaning against the mast, so the ratlines don't line up with the correct template lines. 
  
You might notice that there are two groups of lines red and black.  I screwed up which was evident when I checked the port and starboard alignment and height above the deadeyes.  The red lines are the corrections to the spacing. 
 

 
port side

 
some views of the foremast and the pin rails. You can see the serving of the main stay.
 

 

 
a view of the fore top from aft.  can see the 

 
Next is some work on the ship's boats
thanks
Marc

Continuing work on the masts. I'm simplifying much of the hardware on the masts by using paper strips and eyebolts, but at the same time not eliminating any of it. That will allow me attach all of the rigging yet stay within my comfort zone.
 
Nevertheless it's not possible to avoid all of the metal work and I soldered brass strips for the mast caps.

 
This is not my forte, nor of much interest me, but I thought the mast caps needed to be structural.
I have also learned from experience not to use basswood for the crosstrees when they are quite long as they are on the Bluenose; they are quite likely to break during rigging and then of course, they're very difficult to repair or replace. Some walnut will work better.
 

 
The fore mast in particular has a lot of points of attachment.

 
I have always had trouble attaching futtock shrouds to the mast without making a big oversized mess, so I have developed my own, (not entirely authentic) method, that leaves a neater appearance. Instead of wire, I use rigging line. (I can never seem to get wire to stay straight or taut.) At the point of attachment, I drill a largish hole all the way through the mast. Once the lines are attached to the bullseyes or deadeyes on the crosstrees, I draw every line all the way through the one hole and out the other side. In this case, two lines passing through left to right and two lines passing through right to left. I glue them in place and then trim them flush.
 
 

 
Another hardware feature on this model is a number of turnbuckles. If I had noticed them on the Bluejacket website sooner, I would have just bought them and added them to my last order. However, I didn't so I had to figure out how to represent them. I have seen a few builders making quite realistic ones out of brass and Tom Lauria has a video where he makes unbelievably detailed ones. This was out of the question for me, but nevertheless I wanted to represent them.
 
The main objective for me is to get them small enough. If they are oversized, I think it ruins the look. Id' prefer to have them look a bit fake, rather than be oversized. I decided to use two small eyebolts attached to a central "cylinder" but I couldn't come up with what to use for a cylinder that was small enough yet still allowed me to drill holes for the eyebolts. The central part of the turnbuckle should be just 5/32" long. Here is what I came up with. The cylinder is a piece of solder. I drilled a hole in each end and glued in the eyebolts. I then gave the solder a squeeze with my pliers to slightly flatten them. I think when these are incorporated into the rigging they will be ok. They aren't perfect, but at least they are exactly the right size which I think is half the battle.
 

 
That's it for now. Many thanks for checking in, "like" etc.
David

With respect to the "unidentified object" on the deck, I emailed the people at Bluenose II and received an answer this morning. They confirmed that the object is the lazarette hatch. You were right on the money, jamcdonel!
 
This made me curious about the word lazarette which seems like an odd word. I was surprised to discover that it is a reference to Lazarus. If Wikipedia is to be believed, on old ships this area below deck was originally where bodies of "important" passengers and crew were stored rather than being buried at sea. More recently, it refers to the area where the steering mechanism is located.