bhermann

Research 🧐 into the ownership of the original Bluenose. 
 
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angus_Walters
 
Captain and part owner of the Bluenose, Angus James Walters. 

Interesting a Committee of Halifax Businessmen came together to build the Bluenose as Fishing Schooner that could win races internationally. 
 
Good stuff…  It really was built as a racing schooner. 
 
 
Bluenose was constructed by Smith and Rhuland in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. The schooner's keel was laid in 1920. The Governor General the Duke of Devonshire drove a golden spike into the timber during the keel-laying ceremony.[8] She was launched on 26 March 1921, and christened by Audrey Smith, daughter of the shipbuilding Richard Smith.[9][10] She was built to be a racing ship and fishing vessel, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian fishing schooner Delawana by the Gloucester, Massachusetts, fishing schooner Esperanto in 1920, in a race sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper.[11]

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluenose#:~:text=Bluenose's captain and part,schooner reached the racing port.
 

Fore Topmast complete…

Replaced the CA glued Hilliard Shackles with the newly soldered one. Touched up the top tapper and placed the Gilt Ball. I cut off a white sewing pin 1/8” from the head a C A glued it in place. Trucks for the Flag Halliard Re so small at this scale, I will represent the truck with black thread. 
 
Now maybe I can move on to the Main Topmast. Cheers 🍻 

I have finished up the main boom.  This one has 5 different bands and the first use of rope.  I cleaned up and attached the boom jaws and then shaped and attached the clapper.  I pre-drilled holes along the length of the jaws and inserted small nails.  The nail heads are a bit big but I like the look.  Last, I added the eyebolt on top and belaying pins.

Shaped and soldered up the 5 bands.  I then blackened them and installed on the boom.

The last two features involved rope.  I made the fairleads the same way I did for the ones attached to the mast spreaders. I applied some thin CA to the toothpick this time, which made the piece easier to cut to size without breaking it.  After I seized the smallest diameter of the kit supplied rope, I wrapped it around the fairleads and seized.  It took some trial and error to get the fairleads spaced appropriately to each side of the boom.  


I created the lazy jack line much the same way, except it only has to go around the bottom of the boom and is attached with staples.


I added the two eyebolts, one on the bottom of the boom and one on top, just behind the tip band.  Finished up by drilling and cutting in the sheaves.  
 

Tim

Well, I still need to buy some transfer letters to make the name, but I've removed the Saran wrap covering the base and I'm calling this one FINISHED. 2 years, 355 days after starting. I don't have a lot of great photos (I'll take them during the day and in a better setting), but I've got a couple of the now completed ship.
 
First, couple of snaps of the last steps. The preventers on the rudder:
 

 
The forward bell:
 

 
The lower, fore stuns'l boom mounts (I lost one of the ones shown and had to remake it), and the mounts+booms in place. The mount was made from sheet brass, the boom iron from copper venture tape painted black, and boom rest from 1/16 by 1/32 brass, with the lower support made from annealed steel wire. 
 

 

 
Finally, please take a journey with me, having a look at the ship at approximately 6 month intervals.
 
NOVEMBER 2020:


 
MAY 2021 (6 months)

 
NOVEMBER 2021 (1 year)

 
MAY 2022 (1.5 years)

 
NOVEMBER 2022: (2 years)

 
MAY 2023: (2.5 years)

 
And finally, completed, November 4, 2023: (3 years)
 

 
Thank you all for your suggestions, assistance, and for following along so that I didn't give up somewhere along the way. As I said, I'll post more, better pictures in a couple of days. Now I need to figure out what is going to be next.
 
Regards,
George

No new photos today. But, completed:
Portside davits, guy, and boat tackle Gilded balls on mast trucks: I used a couple of about 3 mm beads from my wife's stash, used a belaying pin to represent the top coming from ball, painted them gold and installed them. Preventer chains on the rudder. Somehow I missed them before. That leaves:
Stuns'l booms on hull: 2
Forward bell: 1
Decals: 3
 
I'm starting to wonder if I dreamed the decals. There is a flag sheet in the parts list, but no decals. I will try to find some good transfer letters to make the name. My guess is that there are train ones that will work.
 
If that's the case, all that's left are the booms and the bell. I'll go over the ship and see if I'm missing anything, but with any luck, I'll be done this weekend.
 
Regards,
George
 
 

Okay, well, I have mounted the starboard side davits. Here is a photo:
 

 
The photo isn't great, but here are the basics. Fore davit on a small platform I built at the planksheer. Aft between shrouds 3 and 4. I put the guy in, but simplified the rigging. The plans show a bolt at the after end, and a tackle, belayed to a pin on the main rail forwardl. I just ran it to a eyebolt on the main rail. I looked at rigging the boat tackles in an X pattern but didn't like the look, so they are rigged vertically, with the hooks attached to the lower channel or the platform directly beneath the davit. It doesn't look vertical (it's an artifact of the photo), but it is.
 
The list:
Stuns'l booms on hull: 2
Davits: 4 2
      Boat tackle: 4 2
      Guy wires on davits 2 1
Gilded balls on mast trucks: 3
Decals: 3
 
Total = 13
 
Regards,
George

Tested…

The shackles seem to be holding up. 
 
I do have to do one of these for the Main Topmast as well.  So I thought I would give this a shot. Here is the process…

Inside diameter brass ring 7/64”

Applied flux prior to soldering and soldered the ring closed. 

Drilled holes to hang shackles. 

Needed this step to get a good mechanical connection for soldering. Applied flux and soldered. The metal alligator clip is a good heat sink to keep heat from getting to previous solder joint. 

Needs cleaning up. 

Filed inside wire and excess solder. 

Blackened and touched up with Testors Flat Black Enamel. I am having trouble getting a good black coat with the Brass Black only.  
 
Cheers 🍻 
 
 
 

Just when I thought parts couldn’t get any smaller…


No way, could I solder this piece. CA glue to the rescue. I hope 🤞 
 

Cheers 🍻 

Fore Mast Tackle Sheave…
 

Second attempt… 
 
On to the Main Topmast. 😎

Fore Topmast…
 
From sheet 4, this post covers everything you see here. These are the most detailed plans I have worked with to date. This “kit” is the most challenging build for me, stretching my skills and teaching me some new ones. 🧐

Throat Halliard Crane with Link

Halliard Bands

Iron Gate

Spring Stay Bail Band

Fore Topmast Heel 

Iron Fid


Mast Cap

Tapering the Fore Topmast

Amber Shellac = Natural Oiled Finish

Fore Topmast Complete 😎

Now we are starting to look like a tall ship.  Up Next: Main Topmast
 
Cheers 🍻
 
 
 

A small update, but an update, nonetheless... Time to get the windlass and other machinery placed on the deck.  While everything was pretty straight-forward, it was definitely tedious, small-scale work.  First thing I needed to do, though, as a pretty new ship modeler who had no real nautical experience, I needed to familiarize myself with the total operation of the windlass, how it affects the anchoring, hoisting the sails, hoisting cargo, etc.
 
As I began this Bluenose build, another local builder whom I had met at a KC-area club meeting provided me with several books from his library.  One of those was Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners by L.B. Jenson.  Others here on MSW have mentioned this book in some of their posts.  In this book, the author discusses details of not only the Bluenose II, but the original Bluenose 1921.  On pages 54-55 of the book, he has descriptions and drawings of the windlass and associated machinery, and the working anchors and cables.  Very interesting and informative! (My apologies for any blurry photo shots.)
 

 
      
 

 
All of the kit-provided cast metal pieces were in pretty good shape.  Just needed some cleaning.  The chain whelp side of the windlass barrel was lined with 1/64" brass strips using CA glue.  The wood whelp side of the windlass was a little more tricky, as it was fitted with some very small pieces of 1/16" & 3/32" square strips, and it took a few tries to get something that looked decent enough to call good.  The counter shaft assembly and the other winch machinery, including the arch that will make up the jumbo jib boom crutch, all came together pretty well.  I also added the brake beam to the top of the bowsprit and added, as best I could, a thin brass rod from the brake beam down to the quadrants attached to the windlass barrel.  Before it got too tight and busy on the deck for me to do it, I also added the claw chain stopper to the port side of the samson post, as was shown in Mr. Jenson's book.
 
            
 
In order to simulate the gear chain on the windlass, I opted to not take any jewelry from my wife's jewelry box... I'M JOKING!... and I purchased some of the Mantua black chain that Model Expo had advertised on their website.  This chain is approximately 24 links/inch.  In reading what would be appropriate size chain for a 1:64 scale project like the Bluenose, I saw somewhere in the 22-24 links per inch range.  The chain is definitely tiny, but didn't want the chain to look oversized on the deck, as I will also use this chain for the anchors and a display of a few flakes on the deck and in the chain box.  Hopefully, it will look good.
 
            
 
So... working on the anchors is probably the next thing on my Bluenose to-do list.  Again, the aforementioned book by Mr. Jenson, on page 55, discusses working anchors and cables, their normal stowage positions, and how the cathead is shifted from port to starboard, depending on whether the club anchor or fishing anchor is prepared to be let go.  Again, very interesting and informative. 

Well, the yard mounted stuns'l booms are done. They are shown as per the plans, which is to say tied to various convenient halyards. Here are a couple of photos of the ship and the booms:
 

 

 

 
In the first photo you can see the boat davits drying after being painted black. I ultimately drilled the hole for the aft davit between the 3rd and 4th shroud as in the Buttersworth painting rather than the plans (between shroud 1 and 2) or the China Trade painting (between the shrouds and backstays). They are drilled on both sides, ready to be mounted once the paint dries.
 
The list:
Stuns'l booms on yards: 12
Stuns'l booms on hull: 2
Davits: 4
      Boat tackle: 4
      Guy wires on davits 2 (maybe)
Gilded balls on mast trucks: 3
Decals: 3
 
Total = 18
 
We will see if I ultimately put the guy wires on the davits. They would need to be run behind the shrouds and backstays and that area is really inaccessible right now. I'll probably try, but there is a limit to how much damage I'm willing to do at this late stage to add two lines. FWIW, for those that are working on the Fish, it might be worth installing these before the course and top braces so that you can access things a little easier.
 
Anyway, the end does appear to be approaching. I'll probably do the davits, then the two hull stuns'l booms, and see if my wife has any beads of the right size to make the gilded balls for the mast trucks. The decals will be the last step. Not sure if I'm going to apply the name directly or whether I'll put it on a very thin piece of black painted wood. It needs to be discreet, there were no head or trailboards. 
 
I have a case that my father bought for the Revell USS Constitution* I made for my parents, but which he dispensed with when they moved into his current apartment. The case was way too tall for the Constitution, and it's too tall for the Fish at the same scale, so I'm going to cut the wooden corner elements shorter and have a glazier cut the glass down to appropriate size, but it's already available.
 
Hopefully I will finish her by the end of this weekend, as November 14 will mark 3 years of work on this project. I'm really looking forward to closing this one out and working on something new. I appreciate everyone who has looked in and helped me along.
 
Regards,
George
 
* PS: There is a bit of a story as to why I gave my parents a Revell USS Constitution. My maternal grandfather (who died in January 1969) built plastic models while he was living with us from 1967-1969. He built two Revell Cutty Sarks (and the Nichimo 1:200 Yamato, the notorious flat bottom Revell USS Midway, etc.) which were displayed in our house. Why two of them - I don't know; I assume he wanted to do better on the second try, although they both looked great to me. He was working on the Constitution when he died. I tried to pick it up when I was about 12 years old, but it was beyond my skills, had been sitting in the house for 8 years and was probably missing pieces, and I ultimately gave it up. In the interim, my brother, sister, and I had pretty much destroyed both of the Cutty Sarks playing with them. When I took up modeling again as an adult, I decided to build the Constitution that my grandfather never finished, and to give it to my parents to replace the ships we destroyed as kids. I think that they appreciated it, particularly my dad, as my maternal grandfather had been so kind to him after his own parents more or less disowned him for marrying my mother. 
 

Work on the masts continued...  A lot of detail to work out and has been a great opportunity to practice metal cutting, bending and soldering.  The cap band of the foremast was more complicated that the main, with the addition of two long links on the sides and an additional band just below with another bail.

The halliard bands and trestle trees were similar for both masts, although no futtock shrouds on the foremast and the foremast called for fairleads.  
 
Mainmast

Foremast

I created the fairleads by drilling out a section of a round toothpick and the wrapping a wire around to insert into the spreaders.

The masts also differed above the pin saddle, with a chafing piece on the mainmast and a gooseneck on the foremast.  I created the chafing piece by folding a piece of tin foil several times with glue in-between the layers, cutting to shape, and then used a pin to mark the nails around the edges.  I folded the tin foil so the dull side was showing, as it better represented galvanized metal.  The gooseneck was quite a challenge to get everything soldered up with the link on so it would move freely.  

Completed masts.  Not squared up and glued in yet, as I still need to finish up a few things on the deck and hull that will be easier with the masts out.

 
One of the things I have be struggling with is how to create and apply the lettering and scroll work.  I started with trying to use dry transfer, but that was impossible to keep lined up and did not solve for the scroll work.  I moved to decal paper which created a couple of challenges, designing the artwork and getting it to print such that it would look good when applied.  I tried to design the graphics in Powerpoint first.  That was easy for the lettering, but not-so-much when it cam to the scrollwork.  All the images I found had white backgrounds that I could not remove with PP.  I ended up downloading Photoshop, and through trial and error was able to create graphics that I could add into Powerpoint.
 
I printed out the design on the graphic paper I had.  It looked great, until I pulled the decal off of the backing paper and applied to the model.  The decal material was clear, so the yellow was translucent and didi not stand out on the black of the model.

I read another post that called out using white decal paper.  That did the trick! 

After the decal were applied I sprayed the hull with a coat to matte clear to seal everything in.  Getting down to the final build details!  Working on the booms and gaffs now.
 
Tim

The instructions say to use pins to hold the main rail, trying that with scrap parts the wood would split. I held the rail in place and drilled a #74 hole with a pin drill. The pins go in snug. I might wet the wood in this position so it might form and stay. 
 
Thanks for the tip Hamilton, I think the main rail will build out ok before the decking. I’m trying to watch the plans and future steps to be sure stuff will fit. The chain plate slots worked great with a #77 drill bit and a sharp #11 to cut out the centers. As long as I don’t get paint in them, they will work out lol. I hope. 
 
@GGibson where can I get micro size reamers. I’ve bought every small file type I can find. I have like 8-10 sets of small files now haha. 
 

 

 

Stanchions with 2 coats of white. No idea how to paint and keep the scuppers clear. They are so small. The outside is the most important I think. 
 
One light coat of primer on the outside. If it sands up nicely, it could get colors next. 
 
I’m still debating finishing the top rail and attaching it filling in the deck planking next. 
 
Progress is progress. 
 

 

 

 

Hello there:
 
So the sails and running rigging on the Bluenose are now complete, though the model itself needs a number of finishing touches, namely:
 
1. The fore boom crutch - some quirks of the model as built will require me to position this differently than the plans, which presumably means it will differ from things on the actual vessel....oh well!
 
2. Barrels - there is room on the rack I made forward of the cabin for 2 more and I think this will look better than the 4 I currently have....
 
3. Sheer poles - on the lower shrouds - a pretty straightforward element
 
4. Running lights - I have to consider how to approach these - I had thought of doing what I did with the MS Phantom (my very first model) and banging something up that more or less suits the purpose, but after all the effort on Bluenose I feel like I need to try something more authentic....
 
5. Dorys - I had a go at these this past Spring, but I found it very difficult to get the basic parts of these together using the jig design included on the plans - I've seen other Bluenose builds using these to good effect, so I do plan on having another concerted go, but I feel like I need enough time and leisure to really focus on it - this is not the kind of thing (for me anyway) that I can just nibble at with 30 mins here or 1 hour there....
 
6. rope coils - I've never been to concerned with these in previous builds - though I did make an effort to add them to the Armed Virginia Sloop that I built was back in 2010 or something - one of the models of which I'm the proudest - and considering (once again) the effort put into Bluenose it seems appropriate to me to go a bit of extra distance with these details.
 
Here are a few photos of the model as it stands. The first one shows the 1:64 Bluenose next to the (now pretty ratty) 1:100 scale Amati version I built back in 2012. Enjoy and happy modelling
hamilton
 
 

Nice recovery!  Impressive work.

Correction to previous post…
 
As I proceeded to build hardware for the Trestle Trees and Spreaders, I discovered an error in cutting into the masts too deeply. The result was the Trestle Trees being to close together to accept the top mast heel. I therefore had to rebuild both Trestle Tree assemblies and patch both masts. 


The following is how I corrected my mistake. Here we can see the Trestle Trees are too close together to accept the Top Mast Heel. 

After disassembling the spreader trestle tree assembly and removing the Cheeks from the mast. I split a piece of dowel to fill in the deeply cut mast.  

Using PVA glue and clamping I restructured the mast. 

Lots of sanding required…

A fresh coat of Amber Shellac and we are ready to start over. 

Here we go with attempt 2.0. Mark where the Cheeks are to be placed. 

Carve a flat space on both sides of the mast. 

Verify the proper widths required. 

Here we can clearly see the patch in the mast. 

Reassemble the Trestle Tree and spreaders. See previous post…

Proper width achieved, mistake corrected. Rinse and repeat with the Main Mast. 
 
Cheers 🍻 

A couple more progress updates... 
 
FIFE RAIL - Like many others' builds, the laser cut rail broke while trying to ream out the holes for the stanchions.  So, I traced and cut a new one using the 1/16" stock board.  I used the Proxxon bench drill press to ensure the holes were cut straight, since there was so little space to work with.  Primed and painted all the pieces white, except for the top bar, which I stained in order to give a bit of a color contrast.  As I have done on other deck furnishings, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the posts, not only to help hold while painting, but also to provide a more secure fit on the deck when it comes time to glue onto the deck.  I did shave off the bottom stubs of the stanchions that were designed to fit into holes in the deck.  I'll simply glue the bottoms to the deck.  I need to add the snatch blocks to the sides of the posts still.  Also, I noticed that I need to add a belaying pin just in front of the boom crutch.  Not sure if we've got enough room to do that without breaking the bar!  As others have done, I will hold off on permanently installing on deck until the main mast is placed.  
 
        
 
Samson Post & Bowsprit Bitts - This was pretty straight-forward.  The laser-cut platform had a super narrow and fragile outer edge, that I was sure would break during the construction.  Fortunately, though, it survived!  Everything else (post, bitts & support blocks) was cut from stock, and came together ok with no breaks.  Glued, sanded, primed, final sanding and paint (Picture is prior to painting).  Again, placed a small brass rod in bottom of samson post for securing to deck.  Plans call for a square hole on the post under the platform for the heel of the bowsprit.  I decided to just drill a hole and I will support the bowsprit with (another) brass rod in the end of the bowsprit when it comes time to work on it and install.  
 

 
Engine Box & Clutch Cover Box - Once again, another couple box builds.  Cut all sides and top covers from 1/16" stock sheets and supported the inside corners with 1/8" square strips.  Marked the locations for the lever opening, chain opening and shaft opening on clutch cover box. Drilled holes to start and then opened more and squared (as best I could) using files.  Glued the clutch cover box to the side of the engine box, sanded, filed, primed and painted all.  As it appears in the Nova Scotia Archives pictures, eyebolts were placed on the backside of the engine box.  Also need to work on the top cover hinge replication that others have also done.  I am still horrible at soldering!  Think I may have mentioned previously that I am trying the resistance soldering technique.  The brass strips that I soldered need to be cleaned up a bit.  We'll see how I do with that and then I will add to the top cover of the engine box.
 
            
 
Chain Box - Another box construction, but this one is a bit different, as it is lower on one side in order for crew to store and access chain, and since it is open, it has a visible bottom.  Rather than painting this white, I decided to stain this chain box darker, again as it appeared in the Nova Scotia Archives pictures.
 
     
 
Working now on all of the remaining machinery fittings and structures (windlass, etc.).  Once these are all complete, I will work on how these are all positioned on the deck, add the chain, etc.  Pretty exciting and intimidating all in all.  

Very quick update - with minimal time to spend on modelling each day, I managed to fabricate and rig the jib sail - there was nothing trickier about this than the other sails, though I did work out a better way to add the brass rings that lace the sail onto the jibstay - with the jumbo jib, I rigged the sail on the model first and then added the rings - a big mistake as this ended up putting a lot of pressure on the rig and I accidentally pulled a couple of things out of alignment and had to re-do them, which (as many of you will know) gets harder to do the more the model gets built up and the more you have to navigate the spider's web....this time, I opened the rings, added them off the model, and made temporary lines at the halliard and the tack to steady the sail in place. I could then easily pry the rings closed one-by-one, then add the rigging features. This proved to be much easier to accomplish without risking damage to the model.
 
In any case, here is a photo - I posted this already in the "state of the build" thread elsewhere on MSW, so if it looks familiar, that's why! Enjoy and bye for now
hamilton
 

Well, the Fish is rigged. I still have some things to do, but we are definitely on the home stretch.
 

 

 

 

 

The list:
Stuns'l booms on yards: 12
Stuns'l booms on hull: 2
Davits: 4
Boat tackle: 4
Gilded balls on mast trucks: 3
Decals: 3
 
Total = 28
 
As always thanks for looking in,
George 

Well, we got back from vacation on Monday, a day late. Unfortunately, United downchecked the aircraft after we had boarded, so we waited for 5 hours before they cancelled the flight. Given that it was avionics, I don't know why they didn't just cancel it right away - we would have found something more interesting to do in Lisbon than just sit around the plane (at least they let us walk onto the gate area). Anyway, Portugal was very nice - we took a boat trip up the Duoro River from Porto, ate great and had lots of delightful wine and Port, so, can't really complain. One shot of the Duoro in Porto itself, taken from the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar (which is technically in Vila Nova de Gaia (Porto is on the north side of the river) where all of the Port houses are. You can see some of the boats used to transport the wine - unfortunately I forgot to take a photo of a rabelo boat, the old school shipping sailboats. The bridge in the foreground is the Ponte Luiz I which was designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel, hence why the arch may remind you of some other structure....
 

 
So, back to the ship. Since I've been back I've been working on the braces. I have now completed all but the fore course and top, main course and top, and mizzen course, which is to say, I've been attaching main and mizzen braces. Here are some photos of the work to date:
 

 

 

 
And here is the ship in its current state:
 

 
I also wound up repairing a previously mounted brace that was interfering with the spanker.
 
So, the reduced list:
Spencer gaff: 2                                 Braces: 30 10
     topping lifts: 2                             Stun'sl booms on hull: 2
     vangs: 4  2                                    Stun'sl booms on yards: 12
Spanker boom: 1                             Davits: 4
     sheets: 2                                           Boat tackle: 4
     Topping lifts: 2                             Decals: 3        
Spanker gaff: 1                                 Gilded balls on mast trucks: 3
     peak halyard: 1                           
     Throat halyard: 1
     vangs: 2
     ensign halyard: 1
 
Change:
0 Additions
-12 (12 braces)
Net = -12
Remaining items: 45
 
Finally dropped below 50. Of course, the remaining 10 braces are the complicated ones, each probably worth 2 normal braces. But, I'm sticking to the 45 items number. I'm also probably going to start fabricating the stun'sl booms. The kit only provides 5/32 dowels for them, but I bought some 1/16 dowels and am going to try to make them scale appropriately to the yards.
 
Main course: 3/32
Main top: 1/16
Main topgallant: 1/16 (not sure - going to see what it looks like, may sand it down)
Fore course: 1/16
Fore top: 1/16 (not sure - going to see what it looks like, may sand down a bit)
Fore topgallant: 3/64 (ish) - basically going to sand the 1/16 dowels
 
Those 5/32 dowels are 9 inches at scale. Except for the main - that's way too big. I can try to lift the diameters by measuring the plans, but I'm probably just going to eyeball it.
 
As always, thanks for looking in!
 
Regards,
George
 
 
 
 
 

WARNING ⚠️ Mistakes made during assembly in the post. Please proceed to the following post for correct assembly of the Trestle Trees and Spreaders. 
 
Trestle Trees…

Main Mast Trestle Tree complete ready for paint and hardware. Rinse and Repeat for the Fore Mast. 

Trestle Trees painted ready for hardware. 

Back to foundry with another Mast Cap.
 
Next: Nine Eye Bands to build for the top of the Fore and Main Masts. 
 
Cheers 🍻 
 
 

Futtock Shroud Band…
 
More Metal Work practice…. 
 

Band shaped and soldered to fit proper height on the Main Mast. 

Drill holes and insert wire to form shackles.

Solder shackles in place. Use alligator clips to sink heat away from previous solder joints. 

File excess solder and shape brass. 

Repeat opposite side…

Clip excess wire inside and file inside diameter smooth. 

Drilling out the excess solder that flowed into the shackle. (0.8 mm)

Blacken after a bath in Acetone. 

Futtock Shroud complete…
 
Ready to build Trestle Trees.
 
Cheers 🍻 

Mast Hoops…
 
These need to be prepared and added to the mast “before” the trestle trees are built. If you forget… 

Immediately, I noticed these were not your typical laser cut parts.  

The laser did not cut through the bottom ply. This made for very tedious cutting and several broken blades. 😣

The small hoops were fine, popped right out. 😆

After sanding and staining the hoops are ready to go. 

Mast Hoops complete… 
 
Cheers 🍻