Bluenose 1921 by GGibson - Model Shipways - 1:64

[GGibson]

Well, no rest for the weary, as they say...  Finished the Ballahoo and have three more ships waiting for shipyard clearance.  As I had indicated in my signature section previously, my son gave me the Bluenose as a gift some 16-17 years ago, when I had never thought about doing shipbuilding as a hobby, and had way too busy of a working life to devote time to this hobby.  I opened the box, read some of the instructions, and pretty much thought "Nope, looks too complicated. I'll put it away for another day."  

 

So, here we are 16-17 years later and I have found model shipbuilding as a fun and rewarding hobby after all.  After three completed ships, it is now time to work on the Bluenose.  I think I have learned enough skills in my three previous builds to make my Bluenose looking good.  Time will tell.  There are plenty of really good build logs for the Bluenose that should help guide me on my way.  I look forward to digging into them and doing as much research and observations as I can.

 

Since there have already been plenty of prior build logs, I won't post the obligatory "open the box and look at the contents" picture and post.  But, I will point out the difference in the box covers from what it looked like 16-17 years ago (shown in my pic below) and how Model Shipways box cover looks like today.  Thought that was interesting.

 

 

In doing a quick comparison of the instructions included in my Bluenose box to the online pdf instructions available on Model Shipways' website, they look the same, so it doesn't appear the build process has changed much, if at all.  So... here we go with another build log!  Appreciate all the follows, likes, comments and criticisms that this build log will generate.  Thanks!

[GGibson]

Pretty straightforward beginning... Assembled the center keel with Titebond.  Used some scrap wood to reinforce the two joints on both sides.  Then worked on cutting the rabbet into each side of the center keel.  Someone else had mentioned in their build log, as well, after doing three previous ship builds, this is the first build that has instructed me to cut into the keel like this.  This operation may have been what scared me away from this project 16-17 years ago, fearful of messing it up right from the start.  Anyways, it worked out pretty well by using a couple different Xacto blades.

 

 

       

I prefer the curved #10 blade rather than the standard #1 or #11 "pointy" blade to cut the rabbet.  Then, used a #18 flat knife (almost like a chisel) to clean out the area between the bearding line and the rabbet.  Thought I might have an issue when I attached the scrap wood for the joint supports before I cut the rabbet with the keel being wobbly as I was attempting to cut, but I think it worked out pretty well.  I also have not yet installed the sternpost.  Thought I would be able to taper the hull to its proper depth on each side without the sternpost attached.  We'll see if that was a good decision.

 

Now on to the bulkheads.  I have "dry-fitted" each and they all fit pretty well.  One or two are a bit looser than they probably should be, but once they are set and glued, they should be ok.  Have not yet cleaned up any of the char on the bulkheads, as I figured I'd do that as a part of the fairing process.  Reading ahead a bit, I'm still a bit unclear on the bulwark stanchion extensions, stern blocks, horn timbers, etc., but will address those as I get to them.  Much more to learn!

Edited November 1, 2022 by GGibson

[Fubarelf]

Gregg,

 

Great job on the rabbet!  Was definitely the most intimidating part about this build so far, trying to get symmetry and only having a 1/16 of an inch to spare.  
 

Tim

[GGibson]

Thanks, Tim! I am obviously following your Bluenose progress, as well, and hope to learn lots from your build.

[GGibson]

Well, I have made some progress in beginning this Bluenose ship build.  After getting the keel assembled, I checked the fit on all of the bulkheads.  They all, remarkably, seemed to fit pretty well without too much sanding.  Made sure, of course, they were all aligned at 90 degrees to the keel before securing with Titebond. I also took the time now to trim/form the bulwark stanchions to their 1/8" width.  There was a natural seam in each of the bulkhead stanchions, and I used that seam to trim, which "seamed" to work out ok.  I will find out later if I'll have any issues with the widths, but it looks like that will work alright.

 

      

 

After reading all of the other Bluenose build logs regarding reinforcing keels (especially the stern end) and bulkheads due to breaks, I thought it would be good on mine to add some reinforcements between each of the bulkheads.  Using some scrap 1/8" square wood strips, I added the strut pieces between the bulkheads.

 

     

 

At this time, I also added the sternpost.  Can't pass up a chance to use some rubber bands for holding!

 

     

 

I was a little apprehensive about how to trim out the stern block.  But, it gave me the opportunity to... buy a new tool!  Never have used a scroll saw before, but it seemed to make the cut pretty easy.  I then used the Dremel to shape it a bit more.  We'll see if there are any issues when I get to planking the stern area, but it may need some more shaping.  Tried to do as much cutting and shaping before attaching to the ship to avoid unnecessary vibrations and potential breakage. 

 

 

Next on the agenda was to add the waterway planks to the fore deck.  The instructions indicated to first fit the plank that goes between each of the bulwark stanchion extensions, but it seemed to me easier and more precise to place that first inboard plank first.  I also added some scrap wood on the bulkheads to act as a ledge for easier placement of those outside planks. 

 

    

 

 

In another build log, someone else had noted, as I recall, that the placement of the great beam is mentioned late in this first stage of hull construction. Seems like the great beam and deck beam should have been added perhaps prior to the waterway planks.  I have added them now, as well, and hope that it does not affect any of the other plank placements to come.

 

    

 

Still plenty to work on before the hull planking begins, it appears.  I need to work on the transom framing and the knighthead & hawse timbers, as well as the aft deck waterway planks.  Also need to add the needed support pieces for where the two masts will set.

 

It all still feels a bit confusing, but will settle down once I get to the hull planking, I hope.  Appreciate the advice, criticisms and even the "what the **** were you thinking" comments.

[Fubarelf]

Great start Gregg, moving right along!  Definitely a lot to go before planking starts.  One lesson I learned the hard way was to check the plan and check the build often.  I found many inconsistencies between the laser cut patterns and the plan profile drawings, unfortunately after I had progressed on the build and a keen eye spotted and pointed out my miss.  After a little deconstruction, I had to do a lot of work to get the bulkheads all to the right widths and faired out.

 

I noticed in the lengthwise shot of your ship showing the clamping of the waterways that the outside waterway does not extend all the way to the end of the bow. Maybe still to come.  Just wanted to call out, as the hawse timbers will be installed on top of that waterway plank

 

Tim

[GGibson]

Appreciate the call out, Tim, on the waterway extension at the bow.  I knew I had to finish it, but was looking at the combination of the waterway piece and the knighthead and hawse timbers and their relation to one another, and took a picture before I finished.  I do like, though, that you noticed it.  Good looking out!  I also added some scrap wood for the mast slots.

 

 

I still need to complete the knighthead and hawse timber construction at the bow, as well as the transom framing at the stern.  I have another newbie question, though.  Should I complete those items, as well as working on the additional bulwark stanchions, main rail, buffalo rail and monkey rail before the hull planking, or do the planking first?  I know that the instructions call for those to be completed prior to the planking, but was wondering if anyone had concerns with any of those breaking or getting snagged during the planking process.  Is there a particular sequential reason why those should be done first?  

[Fubarelf]

One newbie to another, I think it makes sense to finish the fake stanchions, the hawse timber and the transom and then add the top rows of planking with the cove an scuppers.  I painted the waterways, stanchions and the inside of the hull between the stanchion, which I think would be challenging once to main rail is on.  Also, having the top row of planking and the stanchions completed enable you to sand everything flush to facilitate a clean install of the main rail.  I’ll confess, i did snag a couple of the fake stanchions and had to redo the, 🙄. 

[GGibson]

Due to the holidays, travel, and other real-life distractions, I have been absent from the shipyard for periods of time the past couple of months and haven't kept pace.  I have, however, just finished the first "Belt A" section of the Bluenose (along with the garboard strake) on both the port and starboard sides of the ship.

 

   

 

Seems like the planking is going well, albeit slowly.  Was already planning on needing to do a bit of sanding/filling/sanding, so I'm satisfied with how the planks are looking so far.  I thought I had read in some other Bluenose build logs that the planks needed little to no tapering, but (if I've done my calculations correctly) I needed to taper especially the aft ends of the eight "Belt A" planks (from Bulkheads M, N, O & past the stern blocks) a decent amount.  Hope I've done them right!

 

On to more planking! Oh, joy! 

[bhermann]

Hi Gregg

 

I just came across your Bluenose log.  She is coming along quite nicely so far.  I have the same kit with the "Canadian Fishing Schooner" graphic across the front.  I am looking forward to see where you take this.

 

Bob

[GGibson]

Continuing to move "slowly but Shirley" on the Bluenose hull planking.  Have finished with the "Belt B" sections and they didn't seem to require quite as much tapering as the previous ones.  Will now start on the "Belt D" section, which is the part of the hull planking closest to the garboard strake.  Looks like a few of those might require a bit of twisting as the strakes transition from the bulkheads back to the sternpost.  We shall see how it goes!  But, seems like it's coming together decently. I'll then work in the "Belt C" strakes. 

 

        

 

Thanks for your peeks and critiques...

Edited January 21, 2023 by GGibson

[GGibson]

A quick update on my Bluenose progress... I have completed the hull planking!  There are certainly some gaps and undulations in the planking, but all-in-all I seem fairly pleased with how it came out.  Will now work diligently on sanding, filling, sanding, filling... starting at 80 grit sandpaper and working my way up in grits to where the hull is as smooth as I can get it.

 

     

 

        

 

As you can see from the pictures, I still need to trim and clean up the planking at the stern/transom area.  And then, after I'm done sanding the hull, I'll go "topside" and finish the transom framing, knightheads, hawse timbers, fake stanchions, etc, etc, etc.  

 

Appreciate the follows, likes, comments and critiques!  

[bobandlucy]

Looks great, Greg!

[GGibson]

Well, it's been several weeks since I posted an update, and I'm at a bit of a major transition point, so thought I would write out an update...

 

HULL SANDING - I left off in late January where I had finished the hull planking and it was time to sand... so sand I did... and fill... and some more sanding.  Got the hull looking about as good as I think it could, with some more improvements possible after working on the bulwarks and decking, but before priming/painting. 

 

     

 

      

 

 

DECK PLANKING - So, next up was planking the deck!  As was instructed in the plans, I first placed the waterway planks between the bulkhead stanchions.  Then, working from the center keel out, laid the planks, alternating between port and starboard sides.  In staggering the planking butts, I used a 5-3-1-4-2 planking sequence.  As I was planking the fore deck, I forgot to color the edges to simulate the tar caulking! Oops!  Other than that, the fore deck planking was pretty straight-forward without a lot of tapering required.

 

The quarter deck, however, was a different story, as I needed to taper every plank beginning at about Bulkhead K-L out to Bulkhead O and the transom area.  The Acco clips were useful in the deck planking (as they were also with the hull planking) to press the planks against one another to avoid gaps, and I also used some new binders from Excel (the blue clamps in a couple of the pictures) that were helpful where I could not use the Acco clips.

 

All in all, though, I'm pleased with the look of the decking, despite the difference in the caulking appearance.  I have not yet applied anything to the wood, as I will do all that in the painting process.

 

      

 

           

 

        

 

BULWARKS & STANCHIONS (ROUND 1) - Time to work on the bulwark strakes and associated pieces above the deck!  Thought I would first work on the knighthead and hawse timbers.  The plans called for placing two pieces of hawse timbers on either side of Bulkhead A with the knighthead in front of it.  I decided to make this all one piece, and removed the Bulkhead A stanchion.  I then made a small chafe block for the anchor, and will drill the holes at a later stage.  

 

     

 

Next thing to work on were the fake stanchions.  Placed the waist strake in its place and marked where the existing bulkhead stanchions were.  Then measured an equal 1/3 and 1/3 distance between the bulkhead stanchions to determine where the two fake stanchions would be placed.  Used my new The Chopper cutting tool to measure and cut a whole bunch of fake stanchions.  After I had placed all of the new fake stanchions, I noticed (like almost every other build log I had reviewed previously) that the existing bulkhead stanchions looked horrible next to the nice fake ones, so... they had to go!

 

Once I got done, though, with the stanchions and the planks with scuppers (used a file to create those) and the waist, I was not pleased with how it all looked.  I had done a poor job in setting the bulwark planks and waist and decided the best thing to do was.... do it over!

 

      

 

      

 

 

BULWARKS & STANCHIONS (ROUND 2) - So, after removing what I had previously done, I was left this time with no bulkhead stanchions to use as guides for where the planks would rest against, so first thing I decided I needed to do was to "replace" those bulkhead stanchion locations.  Once those were relocated, I followed the same procedure I had done previously in marking where the remaining stanchions would be placed evenly on each side, and... it went much more smoothly.  The scuppers all looked much better, and the bulwark plank and waist set well against each stanchion.  After that was done, I sanded the tops of fake stanchions that peeked over the tops of the waist planks, in order to ensure that the mail rail (when it comes time to placing it) would set firmly on top of the waist and stanchions with no gaps.

 

        

 

 

TRANSOM - I have struggled with the transom work on the Bluenose.  Still not sure if I've done it the best way.  Was having a difficult time with the kit-supplied quarter frames and braces that go above the stern block.  After a couple of different options, I used a 1/8" wide filler piece on each side extending from Bulkhead O to the stern, and formed two 1/16" x 1/2" pieces for the stern transom.  In keeping it at the same extended angle as the stern block, however, I have some concerns on how the main rail will set, and how far back it may be sitting, especially with the main sheet boom buffer and its buffer platform legs under the main rail.

 

        

 

             

 

I will take some additional pictures to better depict my concerns.  I "think" it will all come out ok, but... I'm still a newbie on these matters!

 

WHAT'S NEXT? - Well, after I settle on how the transom will be completed and how the main rail will sit, it's about time to begin some painting!  In my three previous builds, I simply did the old-school brush painting on everything, but have decided to learn how to airbrush for this Bluenose, primarily just for the hull painting and the inner bulwarks and stanchions, although other airbrush painting applications may arise on this build as I become more comfortable in using it.  Plenty of practice sessions before doing anything on the ship, though!!

 

Appreciate all comments and critiques!  

 

 

Edited March 26, 2023 by GGibson

[Fubarelf]

Coming along nicely Gregg!  Quite a task to start from scratch with ALL of the stations, but they came out great.  The transom gave me fits as well.  Took two tries to get it to where I was happy with how it looked.  

Tim

[GGibson]

Thanks for the feedback, Tim.  Yeah, I like the way this transom came out as far as looks, but concerned how the boom sheet buffer will fit underneath.  Will keep working on it! Appreciate the peek-in! 

[GGibson]

Here's where my concern is... When I set the main rail where it needs to be in order to extend down each of the rail sides (and the back edge of the main rail is just past the stern block for a nice edge), the boom buffer's platform side (which I have placed one for demonstration) extends too far out from the main rail.

 

The transom piece is already sitting pretty far back on the deck, so sanding down the transom (making it thinner) wouldn't provide the full adjustment needed.  There is approximately 5mm of exposure.  

 

          

 

As I'm posting this, I think my best solution is to simply make smaller (shorter front-to-back) platform sides.  A shelf could probably still fit between them, under the main rail rectangular hole, for the boom buffer to be placed. 

 

Any thoughts on how to address this? Comments appreciated...

[GGibson]

OK, so after my post earlier this evening, I shortened the length of the platform sides, as I had suggested as a possible solution.  Obviously, the sides are not glued and are simply balanced under the main rail for demonstration/testing, but they appear to look ok in relation to everything around it.  Thoughts from those of you more experienced?

 

 

Still need to address the issue with the main rail not fitting perfectly down the sides as we continue with the main rail forward, but appears others have had similar issues.  May approach the solution to this the same as @JohnU explained in his Bluenose 03/24/21 post where he cut the main rail in three pieces and filled in the gaps after properly fitting the sides.  

 

Thanks to those peeking in! 

[JohnU]

11 hours ago, GGibson said:

OK, so after my post earlier this evening, I shortened the length of the platform sides, as I had suggested as a possible solution.  Obviously, the sides are not glued and are simply balanced under the main rail for demonstration/testing, but they appear to look ok in relation to everything around it.  Thoughts from those of you more experienced?

 

 

Still need to address the issue with the main rail not fitting perfectly down the sides as we continue with the main rail forward, but appears others have had similar issues.  May approach the solution to this the same as @JohnU explained in his Bluenose 03/24/21 post where he cut the main rail in three pieces and filled in the gaps after properly fitting the sides.  

 

Thanks to those peeking in! 

Hi Gregg,

When I was at this point I did the same as you. I looked at other builds and scratched my head about why the fit was so bad. Many others have had the same problem. I think it's due to not having enough detail in the instructions and people make the stern too wide. I only ran across one other blog that had the stern dimensions match the transom piece without modification.

Keep up the good work! John

[GGibson]

Thanks for your input, John!  Yeah, I'm thinking I'll go with this solution, although I will make some better fitting sides than what I have shown as test demos here... I have plenty of that size wood stock.  

 

Think I'm about to the taping/masking/painting stage... 

[hamilton]

Hi Gregg

 

Your Bluenose looks great!

 

I have a more labour intensive, but perhaps also more satisfying solution - at least if I understand your issue correctly. If you can access some 1/16" basswood sheets at a local hobby or craft store I would recommend grabbing one and using that to make the rails. You can make the forward and stern parts by making templates from the plans You can then modify these templates to suit the model as built and then use the modified template to cut out the parts from the basswood sheet.

 

The main parts of the rails can be made by laying the sheet along the bulwarks and tracing the hull curve onto it from below. Cut out this tracing and then use a protractor to mark out the width - don't forget mark out where the pin rail and cathead extensions are before cutting it out. I did this for my scratch Bluenose and it worked fine

hamilton

[GGibson]

Well, it's been a "month of Sundays" since I have posted a progress update on my Bluenose, so... here I am.  I had a busy April-July traveling with my recently-retired wife, with several trips to Florida to see family, a trip to Nashville, and several trips to Iowa, including one for my 50-year high school reunion!  So, during that time, the shipyard was severely neglected!  In fact, I even moved the shipyard to another part of the house, as well.  With all that, I was also really nervous about the hull painting process.  I was really wanting to learn how to use an airbrush for all of the hull/bulwark priming and painting. So, some time was spent with that learning curve, as well.  You'll soon find out how THAT process went... <shrug>

 

First step was to tape off all of the deck, in order to protect it from the paint.  As others have done, I used some narrower 6mm & 10mm Tamiya masking tape along the stanchions, and some wider 24mm Frogtape as filler in the middle open area to cover the entire deck, leaving the areas between the stanchions open for they grey primer.  I also taped the top of the waist board and tops of the stanchions and, using an Exacto blade, cut the tape to expose the bulwark sides. A bit time-consuming, but read where that should help when gluing the rail on top.

 

        

 

Then, using a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush, I successfully sprayed some gray Stynylrez primer on the hull exterior and the inner bulwarks. I made several passes of primer, sanding using 320 grit and then 400 grit sandpaper in between coats.  As someone else commented in their build log, the primer really accentuates the flaws in the hull, so I ultimately used some Tamiya white putty to spot-fill those areas, getting as smooth of finish as I could.  Still a few blemishes, but I'll move on.

 

        

 

 

 

Time to actually get some paint on the hull!  In reading other build logs and their hull painting steps, it appeared the right sequence was to get the white on the waterline (also paint the inner bulwarks while I had the white paint out), then red on the lower hull, the narrow yellow stripe just above the scuppers, then black above the waterline.  

 

Long story short, I did not have success in using the airbrush attempting to spray the white waterline.  I was using the Vallejo Air paint, and got it to a "2% milk" viscosity, but it was way too runny.  I then had some issues with clogging, so decided to just go back to old-school brushing.  I thought I had done enough practice spraying to be comfortable, but.... not so much.  I'll work on practicing with the airbrush another time.

 

Painted the white waterline wide enough to allow for some adjustments when actually placing the waterline mark.  I used my "helping hands" tool and a sharp #2 pencil to show the waterline.  Used the Tamiya masking tape to protect the white above the waterline mark, and gave the lower hull about 5 coats of Winsor & Newton Galleria Acrylic Red Ochre, sanding with 400 grit, up to 800 grit sandpaper in between.

 

             

 

 

 

I then lined up the yellow line along a cove above the scuppers. I wasn't really pleased with the Liquitex yellow color I had, so switched to a simpler Apple Barrel Acrylic Matte yellow.  Again, not concerned about the width, as I will narrow it to the proper width when I paint the black above and below the yellow.

 

     

 

I used the points of a compass to properly and accurately measure and mark the width of the waterline so I could tape the line and paint the upper hull black.  I did estentially the same thing for the yellow line, as well.  After 4 coats of the Liquitex Acrylic Mars Black (again sanding between coats with 400 grit & 800 grit), the hull looked pretty well overall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glad to get this painting done!  Doing some research on other build logs to determine if doing some poly coating (either polycrylic or wipe-on polyurethane) on the hull and/or the deck would be good.  Appreciate any advice on that.

 

I have been looking at what to do for the nameplates and the scroll work.  I asked my daughter if she was proficient in Photoshop, in order for her to help me create the documents/files needed to print.  She said a better option would be to have my 13-year-old granddaughter assist me, as she is pretty good with Photoshop.  Who knew?!? So, those are my weekend plans with family!

 

Next after that will be working on the rails, I think.  Trying to get back in the shipyard more regularly now that my spring/summer travels have ended.

 

Appreciate the comments on what I need to do better!

[Fubarelf]

Paint turned out great Gregg!  Fine line between too thick (clogs the airbrush) and too thin (runs and makes a mess). I usually err to the thick side and add water until I get a test spray on paper that flows nice. I am planning on a coat of matte clear acrylic when I am happy with the final paint, scroll work and lettering.  I am going to try to print the scrolls and lettering on decal paper once I find images that I can edit, color and size appropriately.

 

Tim

[GGibson]

Hey Tim - Thanks for the response.  I won't totally give up on the airbrush.  I was thinking the airbrush method may be better than hand brushing when it comes to painting the various cast metal pieces.  We'll see how that plays out when we get to that point.

 

Regarding the scroll work and lettering, yes, I was also planning on printing to decal paper.  I have the Sunnyscopa Laser Waterslide Decal Paper, which I hope works out well.  Once the granddaughter is able to help me with the Photoshop formatting, I'll see how that works out.

 

Thanks again for looking in...

[GGibson]

While I am waiting on the nameplate and scroll painting/printing assistance from the granddaughter, I thought I would begin working on the rails, beginning with the bow and stern main rails.  When I was working on the stern planking, I was a bit concerned with the height of the stern/transom and how much I would need to reduce the size of the "legs" of the shelf holding the boom sheet buffer that fits underneath the stern mail rail.  As it turns out, it needed to be cut down quite a bit (over several attempts) in order to adequately fit.  

 

All in all, however, I think it came out ok.  For the boom sheet buffer castings, I dipped them in some acetone for a minute to clean them up, then after drying, I painted them black using the same Liquitex Basics Acrylic Mars Black I used for the hull, but painted the ring at the top a brass color using a simple DecoArt acrylic metallic paint.  Drilled two holes in the shelf, glued all the pieces together, and placed against the back of the deck against the transom.  I'm thinking the "zoom-in" using my iPhone makes the white paint on the transom look a bit rugged.  Honestly, with the naked eye of the casual observer and with the stern main rail above it, it doesn't look quite as rugged (I hope!).

 

      

 

Then I fit and attached the bow main rail and the stern main rail in their appropriate spots.  Others have commented on how poorly these pieces fit and many have remade these pieces completely from scratch.  For the stern main rail, after positioning in just the right spot, I was able to glue just the rear part of the main rail to the transom.  Then after that fully dried and set, I carefully "spread" each of the two side rails to where they each fit well against the inside edge of the stanchions, where the rails will continue along the side. Not quite as happy with the bow main rail and how it fit, but should come out ok once we get the bowspirit slid underneath and clean that area up a bit with touchup.

 

        

 

Will now work on the side rails.  As I think others have done, my initial plan is to work on these rails in sections, using wider pieces where the belay pins will be located, and narrower pieces that simply cover the stanchions.  Carry on! 

Edited September 2, 2023 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Started looking at what I needed to do for nice main rails along the sides, and decided I needed to get some larger/wider basswood sheets in order to adequately account for the curve of the hull.  Those sheets are arriving tomorrow (Tuesday), so until then, I thought I would work on one or two other things.  I chose working on getting the rudder ready.

 

First up was, of course, to sand all of the rudder sides, removing the char and tapering the rudder from top to bottom and from front to back.  Out of the box, the rudder measured 4.77mm thick.  Beginning with 100 grit sandpaper and working down to 220 grit sandpaper, I sanded the outside edge to less than 3mm tapered, with about 2.5mm thickness at the bottom.  Seemed to look a LOT better.

 

         

 

In genericDave's (Suburban Ship Modeler's) build log, he suggested putting a small cup or divot into the rudder where the dowel stock piece will sit, in order for the rudder to sit properly once the pintles & gudgeons are placed on the rudder and attached to the hull.  I have a really cool little carving bit as a Dremel attachment (#191), which worked really well in shaping that area!  Sweet!  Using about 15-20mm of the 5/32" dowel for the rudder stock, and shaping/tapering it, I glued it to the rudder.

 

         

 

Needed to make sure that the stock piece would fit in the hole,, and I did need to open it a bit more (using that Dremel #191 carving bit again!) until the rudder test-fit perfectly. (And, yeah, that close-up of the underside confirmed that I need to touch up the hull painting before that's done and ready to seal.)

 

          

 

Time to paint it!  After priming the entire rudder piece, used the same Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic Red Ochre paint as the hull.  Painted and sanded a few times (up to 400 grit) until it looked ok.  I painted the rudder stock piece black, using the same Liquitex Basics Acrylic Mars Black as on the hull.  It all looks good.  Pretty simple... but I needed simple for a change, albeit briefly.

 

 

This will be set aside until time to attach the pintles & gudgeons.  Tomorrow it's back to working on the main rails... then the buffalo rails, monkey rails, etc, etc.  Whew! 

Edited September 5, 2023 by GGibson

[GGibson]

A few updates on progress... albeit baby steps...

 

Main Rail

 

Was concerned about how I was going to lay the main rails on both sides of the ship, and account for the wider areas where the belaying pins are.  Thought it was best to do this from full basswood sheets, cutting them to fit where needed.  So, I procured several 8"x12"x1/16" sheets.  Placing a sheet on the ship in position, I drew the outline of the hull on the underside for the curve.  I decided to create these side rails in two pieces per side, having them meet just on the fore deck side of the center great beam.

 

 

After marking the outside edges in this process, I cut these out using my Dewalt scroll saw, then shaped and sanded to match the hull/waist curve.  Once I had the outside curve shaped, I used two compasses, one measured to the standard rail width and one measured to the wider width for the belaying pin locations, to score/mark the inside edges.  The sharp points of the compass really helped give me a nice line to use as a guide for the #10 X-acto knife.  Pretty slow and tedious, but seemed to work out well.  

 

      

 

 

My scarf joints at the stern and bow pieces weren't perfect, but worked pretty well after some sanding, filling and painting.  Overall, I was satisfied with how the main rail construction came out.

 

      

Before sanding/filling                                                                                                     After sanding/filling

 

Buffalo Rail

 

Next up is the buffalo rail.  The laser cut piece provided in the kit came out fine and, after some sanding to clear the char, it looked like it would sit atop the mail rail ok.  However, when placing the side rail next to the bow piece, there was a bit of a size difference that required some more sanding and shaping.  Once that was done, though, and it was primed, sanded and painted, it looked nice.  Pretty straight-forward with a small adjustment, but another easy completion.  Small victories!

 

              

 

Monkey Rail

 

Well, so much for small victories... The kit has two laser cut pieces for the monkey rail construction that are both placed at the stern.  The monkey rail piece and the narrower monkey board piece that the monkey rail sits on.  Both pieces are 3/32" x 3/64", but one sits wider side horizontal (monkey rail) and one sits wider side vertical (monkey board).  There's probably a better way to explain this, sorry.  Anyways... the monkey rail laser cut piece came out fine.  However, when attempting to take the thin monkey board piece out of the laser cut sheet, it snapped into pieces.  Well crap! Looks like in reading some other build logs, this happened with others, as well, so I guess I joined the club.  Now I will have to recreate the curved monkey board that is at the stern.  Time to pull out the plank bending iron! Uggghhh...  This may have to wait a week until I return from a trip.  I was THIS close to having the hull components done! Ha! 

[Fubarelf]

Gregg

 

Looking good!  
 

Had the same thing happen to me with the  vertical piece. Snapped in two just cutting it from the laser sheet.  I think this is unavoidable given how the grain runs through the piece when it is cut out. I glued it back together (multiple times) and once it was glued to the monkey board it stayed in one piece. I guess it wouldn’t be much of a challenge if everything went together without issue.

 

Tim 
 

 

[GGibson]

Thanks, Tim!  Yeah, sounds like that's happening to many of us.  It's just one of the many ways Model Shipways finds to keep us... amused!

 

Monkey Rail - Part 2

 

With the kit-provided monkey board laser cut piece in shambles, it was time to pull out my MicroMark plank bending iron that I purchased some 16+ years ago when I first got this Bluenose as a gift.  Hope it still works!!

 

Actually, this all worked out much easier than I had anticipated.  I wetted down a couple of the 3/32" x 3/64" wood strips, used the supplied wooden curved jig that came with the iron, and gave each strip a nice curve.  I pinned the strips onto a handy solder board until the wood dried and stayed pretty much in the right shape.

 

 

Using the shape of my Bluenose stern curve and the provided stern monkey rail piece (that did NOT break on removal!), I cut each strip to shape.

 

       

 

The monkey board was then glued on top of the main rail in its proper position, using PVA glue with the occasional spot of CA glue to help hold a bit faster as I worked down each side main rail.  I should maybe mention that I used a small piece of scrap 3/64" wood to guide as a "spacer" from the outside edge of the main rail, marking lightly with a pencil so I could place the monkey board at that mark all the way down the main rail to the great beam.  That guide worked well for me.

 

Next, worked on placing the monkey rail on top of the monkey board.  First, glued the kit-provided laser piece for the stern.  Had to spread it just slightly to match my stern curve vs. what the plans provided.  But, it did not break!  Then the side monkey rails, placing them on top of the monkey boards so that the inside edge was even with the monkey board underneath, and the outside edge was even with the outside edge of the main rail.  Sanded, filled, sanded, primed, sanded and painted.

 

       

 

Did a bit more touch-up painting on all of the white, and... calling it good... for now.

 

      

 

I think the next thing on the to-do list will probably be the pintles and gudgeons, as that will finish the hull construction items.  I worked on prepping the rudder a week or so ago.  Still need to do the scroll work and nameplates, as well.  Once that is all done, from other build logs I have read, it may be time to seal the hull (or not) with some type of clear seal.  I'll gather opinions on that when the time comes.

 

Also, I have been thinking about how to mount this Bluenose, as once the deck structure construction starts, it will be difficult to do whatever I decide.  One decision I am 90% sure of is regarding sails.  I don't think I will be putting sails on this.  I have even thought about doing some furled sails, but haven't seen too much discussion on the board about that, so not confident in tackling that project.  I have seen a few displays of ships (not necessarily Bluenose) mounted on Launching Ways, as if they were under construction, or just completed and not yet launched.  But, from what I understand of that, many ships are launched even before all of the masting and rigging is completed, with all of that done by the shipbuilders after the ship was in the water.  Ehhh...  I can't get too historically accurate, can I?  Builder's prerogative?!?  I do like the launching ways mounting option, however.  Thoughts and opinions are, of course, appreciated, and my advance apologies if I have not explained some things accurately.  

 

But, first things first.  I'm taking a week off to visit my Florida grandchildren.  Priorities!!

 

 

[GGibson]

Back from a HOT Florida visiting two of our granddaughters... ok, and their parents, as well... and jumping back to the shipyard to continue my Bluenose journey!

 

Placed an order for some items needed, and while I am waiting, I decided to knock out some of the eyebolt, ringbolt and belaying pin placements around the rails and bulwarks while the deck was empty and those are easier to place.  The supply of eyebolts and rings in the kit were nice, shiny brass, which I thought would look sharp around the deck, so went with the brass.  The belaying pins provided, though, needed to be painted brass in order to match and look nice along the rails.  I wanted to prepare and paint as many of the pins as I needed as effectively as I could, so I took a spare wood strip and drilled the necessary 1/16" holes to hold all of the belaying pins while I painted them. To match the brass eyebolts and ringbolts, I used DecoArt Extreme Sheen Vintage Brass Metallic Paint, and the process worked pretty well.  I drilled the holes in the appropriate locations along the rails, and also drilled holes for the eyebolts using a pin vise with a #71 micro drill bit.

 

   

 

Wheel Box

 

Still waiting on that other item, so let's begin working on some of the deck structures!  Seems like, in reviewing other build logs, everyone starts with the wheel box, so I will, too!  I measured each of the four wall sides from the plans, and using an available 1/16" thick basswood sheet, I cut out each of the sides using an X-acto blade.  Once cut, I sanded the port and starboard sides together so they matched, and started fitting all of them together so they made a nice box, and glued them using some PVA glue.  I placed some spare pieces of 1/8" square rail on the inside corners to make them even more solid. 

 

For the base, I glued together a 3/8" x 3/64" strip and a 1/4" x 3/64" strip, in order to make the base slightly wider than the box width, and cut to the proper depth, again slightly longer than the depth of the box.  I rounded the top edges of the completed base, then, so it appeared to mimick a cove baseboard moulding.  Pretty small. but I think the effect was there!

 

For the wheel box roof top, I glued together two (2) 3/8" x 3/64" and placed a 3/32" sq strip on each side to simulate an overhang. Once these were glued and set, I sanded each side, though, a lot in order to narrow the roof top to a nice fitting size. 

 

For the wheel box sides, I used a compass with a sharp point (same as I used to score the inside edges of the main rails when I cut them by hand) in order to create the grooves in the side panels.  That worked out pretty well.  Once all the pieces (the box, the roof and the base) all dry-fit properly and looked good, it was time to paint/stain.

 

            

 

So, I needed to decide if I was going to stain or paint many of the deck structures.  The plans call for using a Burnt Umber color paint, but many other modelers have been staining instead.  This is, then, an appropriate time to analyze and decide what I am going to do for various parts, such as the deck floor itself, the deck structures, masts, and blocks and deadeyes.  I had several stain variations on my shelf, so I tested them all on a spare piece of basswood, both with and without a pre-stain.  Red Oak, Cherry, Golden Oak, Early American and Red Mahogany.  My chart below may be hard to read and see the color variations clearly, but I decided to stain the deck at the appropriate time with Cherry.  The deck structures, like the Wheel Box I am currently working on, will be a slightly darker color, using the Red Mahogany stain. I will use pre-stain on all of these.  The masts will be stained with Cherry and the blocks and deadeyes will be dipped in a Golden Oak stain.  The Burnt Umber paint is sampled on the small board under the chart.  Very similar to the Red Mahogany stain, but I'll stick with the stain applications.

 

 

The staining and painting progressed well, and once all pieces were completed, it was time to glue them all up!

 

                       

 

The kit-provided steering wheel was in good shape, nothing broken or bent.  I dipped the Britannia casting in a bath of white distilled vinegar for about 10 minutes to clean it.  After it dried, I gave it a coat of white primer, followed by the DecoArt Extreme Sheen Vintage Brass Metallic Paint on the spokes and Liquitex Basics Acrylic Mars Black paint on the circle.    Once the paint dried, i drilled a hole in the front of the wheel box using the pin vise and a #55 micro drill bit, dabbed a little CA glue on the pin on the back side of the wheel, inserted, and... done.  All in all, came out looking pretty decent.  Had to set it on the deck to just see how it looked.  But it is now going in a safe place until it is time to permanently install!

 

                  

 

Still needing to work on completing the rudder assembly with the pintles and gudgeons.  Got a new tool for the shipyard, a Proxxon Micro Bench Drill Press, which I should be able to use right away with this rudder assembly.  I've got a large Delta 8" drill press out on the workbench in the garage, but thought this Proxxon would be best for these small pieces.  Ehhh, we will see!

 

Also, need to decide how I want to mount this Bluenose, as I discussed in my previous update.  Appreciate any advice/suggestions, and I always am thankful for the comments, criticisms, and likes.  I learn so much from others!  Thanks!

Edited September 26, 2023 by GGibson