42rocker

Okay, just so people don't think I have given up I thought I better put out a bit of an update. School finally ended last week!!!! Then I needed to put my garden back in for the third time  Hail took it out once, I replanted, and then a week later we had 3 nights of hard freeze that wiped it out again  . But now hopefully the third time will be the charm, and everything will survive. I got a bit carried away, last year my garden was only 16 x 16 and contained tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and cantaloupe. This year it is 30 x 65 and I added potatoes, onions, radishes, dill, leaf lettuce, and sweet corn to everything from last year, plus tripled what I planted last year. I will hopefully have a very busy fall getting everything canned, but I am looking forward to the challenge.
 
Now, as for boat building, I have been progressing with the planking, since there is only a single layer, I am taking my tie and trying to get this done right, I know most of it will be covered with copper plates, but IF I really like how it looks I might just forego the coppering, we will have to wait and see.
 
I would love to post pics, but my laptop seems to have contracted a virus of some sort so I can't use it right now. I will take it to my IT dept. and have them wipe it clean and reload everything, but until then I only have my school laptop and cannot load the software for my camera on it.
 
Pictures will have to wait until after the first of June. I will be leaving on vacation this Sat. we are riding down to Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico, and then riding back up through Colorado and will be gone for a week. I begin teaching summer session once we get back, so I will be able to get my laptop in to the IT dept at that time.

Сontinuation
 

Hi everyone! Want to join the builders HMS Triton. I chose the 1:60 scale, as it is best to size like my material. The model will be built from pink pears. Here is the result of two evenings.

Al,
Outstanding Sir. Simply amazing. My carriages didn't come out as well due to the fact that its a much smaller scale than yours, hence having to paint them red to cover up some of the flaws. Hopefully one day I may have the opportunity to work on a CNC that will give me half the results as yours did. Fair winds to you and yours Buddy.

Got the last of the 4 carriage frames slotted for the axiltrees, now to get em stained.
 
AL
 

 

 

 

Hello friends,
thank for the kind comments and likes.
Karl    
 
 
 
T e i l   4 7
 
 
Upper-Deck
 
 
The upper deck armament is made up of 12-pdrs canons.

Ray
It's looking great. Wow.
 
Later Tim

Your display case looks very good.
The model looks great also. Everything looks great. Thanks for sharing this with us.
 
Later Tim

Greetings to all,
Since I started on the main mast, I had to go about making the trestle trees and top for the mast. The trestle tree wasn’t really rocket science but the top was a different matter due to the fact that I had to make rabbet joints where the boards met. I’ve already mentioned that I have huge mitts for certain aspects of the build that makes me feel like I’m all thumbs and I don’t have a Byrnes table saw that most people already have. So what I did was cut 1/32” basswood down to size and overlapped the corners of the top. Once dry, I came back and added more strips to fill in the gaps between the overlaps. Upon completion of the top I gave it its shape, added the battens and ring, and finally added the top’s rail. I must point out that on the mast itself; I’ve also added wooldings on every other painter’s tape simulated iron hoop. The following photos will show how my Triton is coming along.

Thanks for that wave of comments!
Finished the display case. I made it out of plexiglass sheets and L shaped furu wood.
Looks so-so, CA is not the best way to glue plexiglass, and frankly I failed to cut accurate glass rectangles with required precision. So next time will buy a manufactured case.

 
It sounds ridiculous, but I have no place to put the model on display. This problem slightly crossed my mind before, but I preferred not to think where to put model before it's finished.
So now it is going to the drawer, until I move from rental to my own apartment, where I can easily mount a nice shelf on a wall
 
Next build would be a scratch Oliver Cromwell using Hahn's method, but I just ordered it from Lumberyard a few weeks ago.
So will start a Longboat build while waiting. Hope that Oliver Cromwell will arrive in a matter of a month or so, hence Longboat would become a side build - when I will feel bored with cutting big pieces into small pieces to make a big pieces to cut them into small pieces to make a big pieces © mtaylor.

Thanks David.
 
I am actually compensating for issues raised over 12 years ago when this build first started.  I like to think I have matured and grown enough to overcome these things.  It will be all good.  I had wanted to keep things sturdy and boy did I over engineer.  Interesting to think I am saying goodbye to the rib tops that I have been staring at for so long.
 
The evolution of Krug.
 
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

thanks Mark, you should do it! 
 
On a side note - the cleats are boxwood.  This is where basswood breaks down.  If you omit the drilling for the dowel you have a chance, but the grain is just to soft for the fiddly bits.  Except for the boxwood I have purchased all my wood at two local hobby shops as I needed it.
 
Mark

Mark.  First off, you don't need any boxwood for the ribs, keel and other lower hull parts.  The first pieces I used were for the scroll work on the stem which was pretty far into the build.
 
I went with the Lumberyard for the boxwood.  I essentially budgeted $50, thought about what thicknesses I need and what proportion for each then ordered.  I have MOST of that wood supply left, almost barely touched it.
 
Don't worry about the boxwood right off.  Figure out a hull that interests you and start from the basics.  Plank on bulkhead is even an option.
 
Mark

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Jax,
 
You're welcome. Thank you for your help and encouragement
 
Frustrating is a good day................
 
Impossible to describe what it's like to look at the proto-type and wonder what the hell went wrong?.................
 
Still a lot of work to do
 
Sam

WELL THE FINAL CORRECTIONS WENT TO EXPO TODAY. ONCE I'VE GOT THEM BACK (ABOUT A WEEK OR SO) I CAN SIGN OFF AND ESSEX SHOULD BE PRETTY SET TO GO. IN THE MEAN TIME I'LL FINISH RE-EDITING THE MANUAL AND DROPPING THE NEW IMAGES ONTO THE PLANS.
 
I'LL BE WORKING WITH EXPO ON HOW THE PIECES WILL BE DISTRIBUTED, LABELED, ETC. I'LL POST UPDATES HERE AS THEY BECOME AVAILABLE.
 
I'LL BE STARTING ANOTHER THREAD THIS WEEKEND - IT WILL BE THE BUILD LOG (DESIGN LOG) OF THE PROTO-TYPE. SOMETHING THAT NEVER WAS DONE HERE.
 
HOPEFULLY THAT WILL ANSWER A LOT OF THE QUESTIONS I'VE SEEN/ RECEIVED REGARDING EXACTLY WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THE KIT.
 
I'LL POST THAT UP THIS WEEKEND. IT WILL BE PRETTY MUCH THE MANUAL AND SOME ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND NOTES FROM ME. I'LL RELEASE AN INSTALLMENT EVERY WEEK OR SO.
 
THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO'S BEEN KIND AND TO THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVEN'T................LOL!
 
SAM

But now the good part. Quoting Chuck's manual - "That completes the model!!!" I'm still in progress with the display case, but she is completed! Yahooo!
Chuck, thanks again for that fun build, that looks simple, but actually forces to learn new techniques and go to the next level of accuracy.
 

 

 

 

 
Next buid would be a Longboat, since my wife really thinks it looks better with sails, and I want to make a better planking with boxwood
Ok, in reality I just want to make a pinnace again, this time avoiding all mistakes I did, but making the same model again is kind of silly, and I really love the look of longboat. Also, longboat build would be much slower - I will not rush things to complete it quicker.
 
Thanks everybody who watched, helped and commented - it is quite fun, much better then just modelling without being able to share!

Bow gun and fore stay spreader mounted.

The PHILADELPHIA 's sinking was it's eventual salvation. Having sunk in cold, fresh water, the hull and ironwork was saved from major deterioration for 160 years. In 1935 Colonel F. Hagglund, an experienced salvage engineer from New York, located and raised the PHILADELPHIA. After Hagglund's death, Philadelphia was donated to the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, where she is on display to this day.
 

 

 
GUNBOAT PHILADELPHIA as it is today
 

I have no idea who these folks are, but it demonstrates proportion.

LOL.... some times I think I'm dragging 50 lb. cannon balls behind me .... LOL Anyway....I was in Walmart the other day and cruising thru the craft dept. area and ran across these paint pen markers for $1.97, thinking they might be useful to us in our hobby, worth a try I guess. They come in many colors, I got a black one to try out on some scrap, which I did on some red oak, no bleeding and seemed to cover pretty good. I'll try more test on some planking later on. Thought I'd share this with you. Just in case the ink in the Sharpie pen bleeds in the wood on you, there is something else to try.
 
AL   
 

Time for a warm lamp light!
Very easy to mark treenai holes with a small spotlight. Planks are thin and frames are neatly highlighted

Tim,
I really appreciate your vote of confidence. I have Woody singing back-up for me which makes everything better. LOL. I will get started on the trestletree once I get home today. By chance, would you happen to have any drawings with dimensions for a typical tressletree? Just thought I'd ask.

And the tune still plays "I did it my way"
 
Great additions first a 1/2 boat then on to the mast. Way to go!!
 
Later Tim

Greetings to all,
Well it’s that time to get started on the mast and spar for my Triton. I went ahead and made and installed the bibbs for the mast followed by iron loops that were simulated with painter’s tape that was blackened with a sharpie and cut into 1/16 inch strips. After the loops were completed, I made and added the hounds followed by more iron hoops. I finished the mast by adding the rubbing paunch and finished that off with simulated treenails.