Craigie65
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Glomar in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
Looking much better.
You should be able to lever the nails out. Take care doing that.
Can you test whether part 58 will fit correctly on the stem? I cannot quite see from the final photo but plank number 2 looks to be touching the front of the stem. You might get away with carving it back to fit 58.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from chris watton in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
Looking much better.
You should be able to lever the nails out. Take care doing that.
Can you test whether part 58 will fit correctly on the stem? I cannot quite see from the final photo but plank number 2 looks to be touching the front of the stem. You might get away with carving it back to fit 58.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
@starlight Here is my build of Erycina. The garboard plank sits well and the additional pieces form a nice rabbet for the second planking. All down to the great design from Chris Watton.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from bruce d in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
@starlight Here is my build of Erycina. The garboard plank sits well and the additional pieces form a nice rabbet for the second planking. All down to the great design from Chris Watton.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Peanut6 in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
This plank is looking much better.
Is there any give in the bulwarks at frames 2 and 3? If so they may not be flat against the frame causing the plank to look a touch low. If they are I think Starlight is right and you will have to blend a little once the planking is finished. I too would remove these pins now - it is a pain to get them off once you have added the next plank.
I found the rear a bit tricky too given the sheer of the stern. You will have to use a bit of filler to blend the plank once you have finished planking the hull. Time for plank number 2!
@starlight I would normally agree, but the design of this kit does not need a rabbet (rebate) for the first planking. I found both Nisha and Erycina can have the first plank added without it. The lines allow the garboard plank to sit well. There are additional parts which form the rabbet for the second planking.
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Craigie65 reacted to chris watton in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Fly was designed almost two decades ago, so quite old school. You do not need to chisel in a rabbet for my newer kits.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from starlight in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
@starlight Here is my build of Erycina. The garboard plank sits well and the additional pieces form a nice rabbet for the second planking. All down to the great design from Chris Watton.
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Craigie65 reacted to starlight in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
I will defer to your knowledge then, since I have not built this kit before! My Fly kit definitely needed a rabbet but there was no mention of such in the instructions. Consequently, I didn't rabbet the keel and ended up with an ugly gap on my garboard strakes.
-starlight
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Craigie65 reacted to Andyrew in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Your first planks look good to me. Not all the planks are the same thickness, some are slightly thicker than others, they can all be sanded down later. I found it easier to leave a plank longer than it needed to be, I then glued it at the Bow and worked my way to the Stern glueing at a couple of Frames at a time. When I was a couple of inches from the Stern I then cut and filed the plank to fit at the Stern. The Stern area is tricky because of the shape, you will get some small gaps which can be filled when the planking is done.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
This plank is looking much better.
Is there any give in the bulwarks at frames 2 and 3? If so they may not be flat against the frame causing the plank to look a touch low. If they are I think Starlight is right and you will have to blend a little once the planking is finished. I too would remove these pins now - it is a pain to get them off once you have added the next plank.
I found the rear a bit tricky too given the sheer of the stern. You will have to use a bit of filler to blend the plank once you have finished planking the hull. Time for plank number 2!
@starlight I would normally agree, but the design of this kit does not need a rabbet (rebate) for the first planking. I found both Nisha and Erycina can have the first plank added without it. The lines allow the garboard plank to sit well. There are additional parts which form the rabbet for the second planking.
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Craigie65 reacted to AJohnson in Nisha by AJohnson - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
My misgivings about the styrene trawl heads were justified and one of them sprang apart whilst painting and sanding. A sure indication that they were going to be a problem when I tried to attach the trawl beam, ground rope and netting, they were just too delicate. I initially went for styrene rod just out of shear habit formed by years of plastic modelling, but styrene is not adequate for wooden model boat building it seems, well nothing like this anyway.
I had considered buying some square section metal, but my Dad suggested just hammering some copper wire into shape, so this evening in an attempt to save a few pennies I set off to try that, using some old earthing wire I happen to have in the garage. It was actually easier to shape than I imagined by using a hammer on the top of a vice head and being soft wire it bent around the same timber former that I had used for the styrene versions. Next I pinned the loosely formed wire into shape and soldered, followed by a spell of filing flat and cleaning up. A couple of other details added were the trawl beam socket; again formed from the same shaped wire and the shackle eye-bolt, for this I file a slot into the wire then used a rigging eye bolt and soldered that into place.
A case of one step forward, no - that is one step backwards, then one step forward again, but at least I tried something new in the process!
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Craigie65 got a reaction from nehemiah in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
That is looking much better. Well done for taking the plunge to restart your planking, it will pay off in the long run.
Good idea adding that shim for the front of the bulwarks.
What I was trying to convey is the counter pieces 21 to 24 are frames that need to be faired as the counter is curved across the the beam of the boat. If you took a plank and laid it across the counter frames you would see it only touches this highest edges of these frames. You can see from this photo of Erycina’s counter how much of a curve is in this piece.
It looks as if the counter is conforming to the curve of the stern. If it is secure I would be tempted to leave it.
Good advice from @Andyrew each plank is a mini project.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from wool132 in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
If part 58 does not fit, then as painful as it maybe, then yes I would. Otherwise I think your second planking will be a bit of a struggle. You will not be the first to strip off bulwarks. I have often removed offending planks.
For my build of Erycina, I drew in the position of the equivalent of part 58. I used this as a guide to make sure my first planking did not encroach. You can see the pencil line.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from bruce d in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
That is looking much better. Well done for taking the plunge to restart your planking, it will pay off in the long run.
Good idea adding that shim for the front of the bulwarks.
What I was trying to convey is the counter pieces 21 to 24 are frames that need to be faired as the counter is curved across the the beam of the boat. If you took a plank and laid it across the counter frames you would see it only touches this highest edges of these frames. You can see from this photo of Erycina’s counter how much of a curve is in this piece.
It looks as if the counter is conforming to the curve of the stern. If it is secure I would be tempted to leave it.
Good advice from @Andyrew each plank is a mini project.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from bruce d in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Happy to input if helpful. Unfortunately I did not keep a build log. @AJohnson has a very good log of his build of Nisha, in particular the bulwarks and first planking. I am sure we will all help as much as we can.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from bruce d in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Hi Glomar,
Don’t be disheartened, we all sometimes feel out of our depth. Well maybe not Chuck Look at @Dave_E build of Lady Nelson. He had similar planking issues and made the brave decision to remove his first attempt. He is now going great guns.
I believe Isopropyl alcohol is the preferred method on MSW. Personally I have never had to use it - I have removed the offending planks with warm water as the glue had not fully cured.
The difference in height on the planks could be just the thickness of each. As good as the quality of the materials Vanguard use there is always some variation. I have just had a similar problem on my current build but managed to sand it out. If not then it could be a high or low spot on the frame - a bit more sanding if a high spot or a shim if low will sort that out.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from nehemiah in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
If part 58 does not fit, then as painful as it maybe, then yes I would. Otherwise I think your second planking will be a bit of a struggle. You will not be the first to strip off bulwarks. I have often removed offending planks.
For my build of Erycina, I drew in the position of the equivalent of part 58. I used this as a guide to make sure my first planking did not encroach. You can see the pencil line.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from ct mike in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
That is looking much better. Well done for taking the plunge to restart your planking, it will pay off in the long run.
Good idea adding that shim for the front of the bulwarks.
What I was trying to convey is the counter pieces 21 to 24 are frames that need to be faired as the counter is curved across the the beam of the boat. If you took a plank and laid it across the counter frames you would see it only touches this highest edges of these frames. You can see from this photo of Erycina’s counter how much of a curve is in this piece.
It looks as if the counter is conforming to the curve of the stern. If it is secure I would be tempted to leave it.
Good advice from @Andyrew each plank is a mini project.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Peanut6 in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
That is looking much better. Well done for taking the plunge to restart your planking, it will pay off in the long run.
Good idea adding that shim for the front of the bulwarks.
What I was trying to convey is the counter pieces 21 to 24 are frames that need to be faired as the counter is curved across the the beam of the boat. If you took a plank and laid it across the counter frames you would see it only touches this highest edges of these frames. You can see from this photo of Erycina’s counter how much of a curve is in this piece.
It looks as if the counter is conforming to the curve of the stern. If it is secure I would be tempted to leave it.
Good advice from @Andyrew each plank is a mini project.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
That is looking much better. Well done for taking the plunge to restart your planking, it will pay off in the long run.
Good idea adding that shim for the front of the bulwarks.
What I was trying to convey is the counter pieces 21 to 24 are frames that need to be faired as the counter is curved across the the beam of the boat. If you took a plank and laid it across the counter frames you would see it only touches this highest edges of these frames. You can see from this photo of Erycina’s counter how much of a curve is in this piece.
It looks as if the counter is conforming to the curve of the stern. If it is secure I would be tempted to leave it.
Good advice from @Andyrew each plank is a mini project.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Andyrew in Nisha by AJohnson - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Very nice!
I took the easy way out and bought the pre made sails. Very good they are too!
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Andyrew in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
So on to the counter and outer bulwarks.
I deviated slightly from the build sequence and attached the keel, stem and stern outer pieces first. In particular the the stern piece as I found it fiddlier on my Nisha where I fitted the counter first and then the outer stern piece.
At this point Erycina is going through her punk phase.
I decided to presoak the outer counter - it makes glueing easier.
Finally I added the outer bulwarks - the hole on the front port outer bulwark does not seem to align very well with the inner. Looks as if I will need to drill this later. The starboard side has the bowsprit hole again a bit out of alignment but a bit of filing will sort that. No big deal really, just thought worth mentioning in case you come across this.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
So on to the counter and outer bulwarks.
I deviated slightly from the build sequence and attached the keel, stem and stern outer pieces first. In particular the the stern piece as I found it fiddlier on my Nisha where I fitted the counter first and then the outer stern piece.
At this point Erycina is going through her punk phase.
I decided to presoak the outer counter - it makes glueing easier.
Finally I added the outer bulwarks - the hole on the front port outer bulwark does not seem to align very well with the inner. Looks as if I will need to drill this later. The starboard side has the bowsprit hole again a bit out of alignment but a bit of filing will sort that. No big deal really, just thought worth mentioning in case you come across this.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from ct mike in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
So on to the counter and outer bulwarks.
I deviated slightly from the build sequence and attached the keel, stem and stern outer pieces first. In particular the the stern piece as I found it fiddlier on my Nisha where I fitted the counter first and then the outer stern piece.
At this point Erycina is going through her punk phase.
I decided to presoak the outer counter - it makes glueing easier.
Finally I added the outer bulwarks - the hole on the front port outer bulwark does not seem to align very well with the inner. Looks as if I will need to drill this later. The starboard side has the bowsprit hole again a bit out of alignment but a bit of filing will sort that. No big deal really, just thought worth mentioning in case you come across this.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
So on to the counter and outer bulwarks.
I deviated slightly from the build sequence and attached the keel, stem and stern outer pieces first. In particular the the stern piece as I found it fiddlier on my Nisha where I fitted the counter first and then the outer stern piece.
At this point Erycina is going through her punk phase.
I decided to presoak the outer counter - it makes glueing easier.
Finally I added the outer bulwarks - the hole on the front port outer bulwark does not seem to align very well with the inner. Looks as if I will need to drill this later. The starboard side has the bowsprit hole again a bit out of alignment but a bit of filing will sort that. No big deal really, just thought worth mentioning in case you come across this.
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