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Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

started on the transom planking

I notice that there is a gap between the planksheer and where the outer hull planking will be attached.  this is one reason why I have not painted the waterway and planksheers yet.   I will add some filler wood and file and sand them flush with the bulkhead also.

Note from moderator
 
Hello Sjors, friends and followers,
 
Due to the recent course of events this log has undergone some considerable editing.
Most of the off-topic comments have been removed and posts made by Sjors, his friends and followers have been edited.
I'm truly sorry this had to be done.
 
When everything has settled down, I hope you will start posting again.
 
Thank you for your understanding.
 
Best regards,
Anja

Thanks for the compliments Elmer , and Crackers.
 
I have been thinking about my build entries and like the style that Ed Tosti uses for his entries so I am going to see how it works from here on the numbers are starting at number nine because I have made 8 posts recently regarding the cabin structure. I will follow a similar pattern for different areas in the future.
 
Cabin Structure. part 9
 
After gluing up the sides and beams I noticed that I had not done as good a job making the beams line up on the top profile and this caused a problem with the gluing of the planks. My solution was to sand down the sides and ends to match the middle beams rather than removing the beams. this then ensured that all the curved surfaces were identical.
 
I made a long sander with some 220 grit and carpet tape strip of oak.
 
 

 
I used the narrow side first then the wide side to finish, i did not see the need to go any finer than the 220 grit because all the surfaces will be covered with glue and other wood.
 

 
This allowed me to set some new pine strips that were all the same thickness as the fir planks. These strips were glued to the perimeter and across the separation beam.
 

 

 
The fir planks will be pre drilled for the "screw plugs" (small dowels) before being glued to the top then the dowels and caulking before fitting the companion way slide logs and hatch.
 
Michael
 

Ron, thanks for stopping by.
 
Today I worked on the edge moulding for the hatch sides the split tube design was described in the fourth edition of "Boat Building Manual" by Robert M Seward on page 244 showing typical slide details.
I developed a drawing and the split tube needed to mate to the edge of the mahogany board which is 1/8th inch thick or 1 inch in scale. the boards still need to be tapered and spline d before joining them.
 

 
Set up the mill
 

 

 

 
Michael

This is the model as of today. I will be working on the channels and gunport lids this weekend.

This is some additional details of the spar deck showing the main rails and installation of the 9 pound cannons.
 

This set of photos shows the planking on the spar deck.

This set of photos shows the installation of the pin rails at the main mast. I used straight pins to locate the supports for the large rail aft of the mast.
 

This set of photos shows more framing details and the capstan.

This set of photos shows the guns and lower capstan on the upper gun deck. The blue tabs of masking tape are where the spar deck supports go.  

This is the upper gun deck planking.
 

This is a few more photos of the upper deck framing.
 

The capstan is boxwood and these pictures show the assembly.
 

Hello Shipmates.
 Thanks for your kind words Jeff
Another few photos with the Orlop deck fitted into its position. Not yet glued as I have the top surface to sand and clean up.
 

 
Approx 5mm to trim off the pump house.

 
Temporary spacer plank to mark the amount I need to remove from pump house height.

 
View looking down onto deck.

 
Thanks for looking in
 
Regards Antony.

I would like to apologize to the members of MSW for my somewhat abrupt behavior over the last day or so.  In addition, I apologize to Chuck for any difficulties this may have caused.  He and I have been in contact, via PM and I hope at some point he sees fit to return to MSW administration.
 
We are, in fact, of the same mind.  This site exists for the purpose of model shipbuilding discussion while, at the same time, leaving room for a certain degree of so-called off topic comments essential to establishing personal relationships.  Others may agree or not depending on their own outlook.  But in my opinion we have long been tolerant of one another in order to have a vibrant, harmonious site.  Somehow, lines were drawn and we became divided.
 
This is not why we came here.
 
I intend to return to 'active duty', welcoming any and all commentary to my logs with the proviso that we keep things somewhat more focused than in the past.  I thank all those who intervened positively during this episode and hope that those who chose to leave will return to MSW.

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie

Hi all, progress has been a bit slow, I have many other things that need to be done, would spend a lot more time if the boss alllowed it,... .. I have worked towards getting my interior madness finished and onto the planking and the plan... doing reading and research on planking.. think i have sorted in my head..
 
I have made some brass handles and planked one of the walls.. Made a few items for the cupboard and just enjoying it really... Will let the pictures do the rest of the talking.. Happy crafting all.. Ollie

Merci Messieurs,
 
I will continue in the same area; paper is replaced by wood and everything is dry fit with brass needles to hold everything until  adjustments  and alignments are completed. The last gunport will make part of the assmbly.

The bitt standards are knees that extend anteriorly from the bitt pin.  They are let into the deck beams and ledges by 1".  I rough-cut the standard and then cut in the notches using the Preac saw with the blade elevated 1" above the table.  To make things more interesting, the round-up of the deck needs to be taken into consideration.  Also, the deck slopes upward towards the bow but the bitt pin is perpendicular to the water line.  That angle had to be cut on the aft side of the standard so it would fit snuggly against the pin.  Once I was happy with the fit, I transferred the shape of the standard onto the rough piece and cut it to the correct shape.  The edges are beveled.
 

 

 
After the starboard standard was fabricated, the port one was made.  The pictures show the port standard before and after final shaping.
 

 

 

 
The standards are bolted to the underlying frames.  The cable stopper hole is drilled near the intersection of the pin and the floor height.  It is 2.75" in diameter.  I used a #60 drill bit and then enlarged and rounded over the hole with Swiss needle files.  The hole is barely visible in the last photo.  The color difference betweeen the pin and the standard is because I put finish on the pin but will be delaying putting any finish on the standard until after the deck has been installed.
 

 

Again, thank you all for the supportive comments.
 
Allan, sounds like a good project.  The full framing would give you a chance to exercise those TurboCad skills as well.  Anyway, I am glad to hear of your interest.  I have been hoping the YA build would attract some from the fully-framed set. The framing is different from the 18C RN.  It is alot simpler - no chocks, standalone frames, jogged or curved toptimbers and no ports to contend with.  At the same time there is more of it.  There are also more judgements to make on design specifics.  Although quite a lot is known and documented on the general construction, specific ship structural details have been lost.  Good luck.  Let me know if a novice can help.
 
Bruce, the framing is going faster than I expected.  I spend on average 2-4 hours each day in the workshop, often in more than one session.  I also spend time outside the shop - on research, drawings, photos and this blog.   When I start to tire, I quit and do something else.
 
The Sovereign / YA race would have been interesting.  In reading the endless accounts and passage times for these various ships and routes, it appears to me that the abilities of the captains and the vagaries of the weather - especially time of year conditions - had as much to do with performance as the differences in the ships in this class - probably more.  Variation in sailing times over the same routes are considerable for the same ship on different occasions.  My impression is that Babcock, YA's original skipper, may not have been the man to beat Sovereign.  On that first 110 day voyage to SF, it seems he made some judgements that extended the time, but I have not dug into that. 
 
Your comment on the iron strap bracing caught my attention, particularly your positive statement that it was on the inside.  I am inclined to agree, but in scouring every source I can find, have not found a definitive reference.  On Crothers Challenge drawing, dated 1975, it is clearly shown and noted as on the outside - the so called Lloyds system.  By the time of his book (1997) he seems to have backtracked and is not sure.  Most of the ships he lists have the bracing on the inside - the Admiralty system.  But none of those are Webb's.  He discusses all this.  I believe by the 1860's the American Lloyds registry specified outside, but in the 1857 registry inside bracing is specified.  Structurally, outside bracing is better, but more troublesome to install.  I do plan to install this and am leaning - currently - to inside.  However, my question is, do you have a reference for this?
 
It is unfortunate that Great Republic, as designed never got a chance to show her performance.   After the fire - before her first voyage - she was cut down and given a smaller rig - but was still a good performer.  Young America also had a very long - and essentially trouble-free - career of 32 years with the 50 punishing Cape Horn passages before she was mysteriously lost on her way to Trieste from Phialdelphia in 1885.
 
Thanks, again, for your interest and comments.
 
Daniel. I made some new dark glue and will show some pictures in the next part.
 
Ed