dnputnam

No can do John , but I can tell you it was a nice little project I can recommend to every one. Those shallow drawers are just great. Next to this I use Ikea's little boxes to store other tools and supply's unfortunately they don't sell this type any more, a real shame. I'm still looking for a better way to organize my sanding paper, keeping them in a big stack is not working...
 

 
So back to making bulkheads, I use wooden peg's under the stanchions to temporary fit and adjust until I'm getting a fit I like. 
 

 

 

 
The cook's working space was not very big. Behind the riding bitt's there is another bulkhead drawn on my plan I thin I'll make a nice cupboard for the cook to store his pot's, pan's and other tools.
 
 
 

Hi guys,
 
have managet to get a free time at this weekend, here the result. Last two beams of Captains cabin are in place now, and I'm beginning to build the bulkhead. Here the stantions test fitted.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Alex

Bugra,
 
the material I use for deckrims is of 4x4 equal Long width, extruded or walzed brass angle in 0,5 mm thickness. Cut away v-Portion when bending an inner Corner and replace a Little plate in the Corner when using for an outside Corner rim.
Be careful when bending the Corner for the extruded brass is brittle due to the way it was brought into its straight Rating. I tried to aneal in bending area with gasflame and quench in cold water (should freeze in the anealed microstructure), but you Need to do some Trials with a scrap Piece of bar. Its a bit tricky because its a game of directed heat application versa cooling down neighbour area with Little mass intensive moveable "heatsuckers"
If the bend shall crack, it can be soldered together again, but that may cause someone to loose the last few Grey hairs...
 
ammendment:
 
Bugra,
the forecastle- and the poopdeck bear no extra rims, there the stanchions hold very stable in the decks basic 1,5 mm thick aero Plywood. The holes drilled into deck 0,1 mm smaller than the stanchion foots
 
Cheers
 
Nils
 
unfortunately I have no better Close ups in this Moment than These 3 pics
Hope this helps...
 

 

 

Build log part 17
 
 
 
 

there was at this time the question if partial "canvas" sea and wheather protection Panels (like Trampolin way ) should be attached to the inner side of the railing or not. decision was to let it be
 

this and the next six Pictures are self explaining...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

0,4mm brass wires are fiddled into the 0,43 mmm holes in the four hole railing stanchions, pre-lining up These is easier for mounting
 

finaly made it all around the Long poopdeck with 1 or 2 stanchion losses, but luckily with no false borings in the deck rims
 
 
 
 
Build log part 18 to follow....

Build log part 16
 
 
 
 

boatstation gratings, boat cradles and functional strapping down devices
 

Nav. light lamp fixed to upper bridge
 

boats ready for putting on the cradles
 

boats tackled
 

the characteristic of the Elbing resp. Heinrich Kayser is that her boats were arranged in having the lifeboat in forward Position and the work boat behind. As far as my Research Shows for her sister ships it was just the other way round
 

funnel and Davit stays fixed
 

view from aft with mounted steering chain
 

3 views with eyes on boatdeck level
 

 

 
 
 
Build log part 17 to follow....

Build log part 15
 
 
 
 
 

chain gude chanels
 

chain wind drums of steering steam engine (in deckhousing)
 

anchor chain guide shoes with spindle operated wedge stopper
 

the large horizontal chain guidewheel is also from a clockwork
the two steering wheels come each in small mini kits and must be set together for assembly and soldering (RB Models)
 

aft mast and funneltips in black colour, and cross check with plan
 
 

the Progress at this stage is not always so obvious to be seen...
 

from todays Point of view I would not use These selfmade metal blocks for Tackling the loadbeams again
 

Nav. lights and their mounting panels
 

two lifeboats, two working boats
 

set of Davits with selfmade functional double sheaved blocks
 
 
 
Build log part 16 to follow...

I spent some more time the other day working on the headblock. I've just got a few finishing touches left to do. I also got the gooseneck connection to the head of the A frame pretty much finished. A miracle in that I managed to keep the glue away from the working parts, so it pivots and swings freely in all directions required (the capillary action of Tenax is incredible).
 
Last night I also got the first three rollers from my friend. He's done an amazing job, they are perfectly identical to the master I gave him, and aside from some expected flash, there are no defects or bubbles. He makes his moulds and sets them in a vaccuum to get rid of any air bubbles. After he pours the resin, he puts the casting under pressure. I've seen some other examples of his work, it's the finest resin casing I've ever seen.
 
Anyway, just that small update for today. The way things are right now, progress is slow. Just the nature of the monster really.
 
 
Andy

Well, some actual work to show you!
 
I'm continuing to make frame blanks and rough cut the frames, but I've now made my framing jig and have actually raised the first frame.  This is the forward most square frame, so with that in place I can start to finish off and fit the cant frames.
 

The framing jig ready for business
 


The 'backbone' in the jig
 


First frame fitted
 
The entire frame will be cleaned up after all the frames are fitted and faired.
 
John

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 41 – Aft Half Frames 2
 
Now for the final hull frames.
 
The first picture shows two half frames being glued to opposite sides of the keelson using a different method of clamping than that used for the previous frames.
 

 
As the framing moves forward the frames become more full at the base. This makes the use of screw clamps increasingly awkward.  For the remaining frames the feet were held in place for the toptimber pinning and then gluing using the method shown.  Wood strips are pushed to the frame and held in place by the T-track clamps.  This proved much easier and, as is shown in the picture, frames on either side could be installed concurrently.
 
The next picture shows a closer view and also a 1:72 figure – by special request.
 

 
In the next picture a frame is being pinned to the ribband at the top while held against the keelson at the base. 
 

 
After pinning, the clamp is pulled back, glue is applied to the the joint and the clamp returned until the glue dries. 
 
The pin-indexing method of assembling frames requires that all but the toptimbers are of the same siding, in this case 12”.  The upper futtocks then need to be reduced in thickness after assembly, bevelling and removal of the patterns.  In the next picture this is being done with a flat file.
 

 
These pieces are awkward to secure in a vise, so for this work they were pinned to a piece of Homasote board through the bolt holes.
 
In the next picture, the fairness of the external hull is being checked before installing the last half frame on the side.
 

 
This is also being done on the inside in the next picture.
 

 
The frames were pre-beveled to within to within roughly 1/64” of final breadth – to the outer side of the pattern lines inboard and outboard on each face.  Where there are gaps of more than about 1/64” when checked as above, the offending frame was removed and reset.  There were only a few of these and resetting their height brought them within range.  Final sanding will finish the job.
 
In the next picture the last frame is being pinned to the ribband by bending over the end of the pin.  The foot of the frame foot was then glued to the keelson. 
 

 
Installation of this last frame was a big milestone.  The last two pictures show the full hull after completing the framing.
 

 
There is no doubt that some of the toptimbers will need to be replaced later to precisely fair the upper rails.  Hopefully the number will be few, but these small pieces are most subject to error when assembling the frames.  They are indexed in assembly by only two pins and the pins are close together.  One has already been removed below.
 

 
The hull is now ready for final fairing.
 
 Ed

Thanks, all, for the information on the 5x5 mm pieces.  Have gotten the Port side installed and preliminary fairing done - the rest will wait until i get ready to fair the full hull.  Now on to the starboard side!
 
An additional question -
 
This does have the pressed wood stern galleries.  If I were to try and scratch them, would I build up the stern framing as in a POF model?  Right now I have the filler blocks in place that I would need to remove.
 

Greetings and salutations.  Not a great deal of progress to report - continue to fine tune the alignment on the bulkheads in preparation for installing them.  I was out of town most of the week (and will be next week as well), but the Admiral graciously assisted me today with a detailed inventory of the materials.  There is no materials list provided, and all of the wood was in a couple of bundles or just loose in the box.  After a couple of hours of sorting and measuring, we came up with a good detailed inventory of what is provided.  Next step is to translate the Italian into English - my significantly better half has offered to take that on as well!
 
So - here is what came in the kit AFTER the initial sorting.  First, the Timber
 

 
The Laser Cut pieces (knees, pin rails etc).
 

 
The Dowels and some more shorter timber.  Also the molded pieces - some form of pressed wood material.
 

 
Here is a close up of the stern windows etc.  I think, when the time comes, I will be trying to make these from scratch.  Time will tell on that!
 

 
 
Spending my time while on the road going through the AoTS Essex, John Stevens plans from 1952, the William Baker plans (in The Frigate Essex Papers, 1974) and cross checking to the kit plans.  I have the plans by Portia Takakjian on order and will be working with those as well.  The kit plans are more building diagrams and parts drawings and most are not to scale.There are a couple of good profile views and cross sections which are to scale so using those for some of the preliminary layout work.  There are no lines drawings provided, so will be checking the hull shape using the other sources listed above. 
 
 

Thanks all for your kind words. You are welcome to come over and cook a meal on the stove.
 
I've been busy with a side project, inspired by Geatans tool drawers I decided to rebuild one of my tool cabinets and upgraded a 5 drawer Ikea cabinet to a 9 drawer tool cabinet.
 




 
After that is was time to add more planking (more than I had intended before I started on the hearth. And making bulkheads. Here the first is ready with added small strips to act as rebates
 



 
The bulkheads are made from 20 cm strips, glued and then cut to size. I think this works better than my previous approach by gluing each strip in situ. Along the way I needed to make the upper deck hook to test fit the bulkhead.
 
Remco

Thanks John, Christian, Ben, Adam and Nils .
 
I've finished fitting the Channels, Standards and Drift Rails to the Port side :
 

 

 
Quarter Badge Crown
 
I've also carved the Crown for the Upper Finishing on the Quarter Badge. It's certainly not up to the standard of some of the great carvers on this site, but I'm happy enough with it. Here are some pics from the rough-cut blank to the finished article. I used English Box - it took me about 3 hours work. It measures 6mm wide by 4mm high :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Build log part 11
 
 
 
 

be invited for a walk on the boatsdeck
 

and on the poop working deck
 

flag tabernakel and grating on the upper bridge
 

lifejacket Containment on the Forward portside boatsdeck
 

Fitting of load beams
 

Fitting beams to mast bearings (sorry for pic Quality)
 

 
 

Tackling davit
 

checking Position of Davit-block to boat
 

upper Bridge Cage completed
 
 
 
build log part 12 to follow....

Building log part 10
 
 
 
 

machine well Skylights done, railings on boatsdeck and started on funneldeck
 

forecastle railing fixed
 

this and next Picture railings fixed
 

 

railings, pillars for boatsdeck and upper Bridge stachions painted white
 

stairs to upper Bridge fitted and all stairs painted
 
 

upper Bridge rim completed
 
 

prefitting for davits
 

outer Bridge rim White (except for soldering area of stair)
 

attaching middle wires of stairs to boatsdeck and railing
 
 
 
Build log part 11 to follow.....

Build log part 9
 
 

different size vents
 

machine room skylights
 

ongoing Fitting out
 

cross check with plan
 

starting to look like the Heinrich Kayser
 

copper Fittings from the crafters used for Basic funnel construction, have to do some cutting though
 

 
 

 
 

angle of funnels match mast angle
 
 

 
 
 
Building log part 10 to follow

So from Tichy came a small box with a dozen coal chute kits. This may seem a bit odd, but in each kit there are two open spoked pulley sheaves. Exactly the style I was looking for. And there's also a good assortment of other industrial odds and ends that could prove useful later on.
 
I got right to work on assembling the sheaves. I worked out I need 11 sheaves on the boom itself, and 10 on the headblock, at the "A" frame. There is also a block with 2 smaller sheaves, hung below the top of the A frame, that direct the cable down to the luffing winch drums.
 
The sheaves all sit on a phosphor bronze axle, that came with the chute kit.
 
Andy

Build log part 8
 
 
 

template topview for boatdeck
 
 

checking Position of midship stairs down to Forward working deck
 

deckhouse stairs to boatstations
 

aftstair from boatdeck to working poopdeck
 

view backwards at this building stage
 

wooden planking of boatsdeck, here also the bearing Support-sleeves for taking up the Davits already mounted
 

 
 

 
 

main wheelhouse, Navigation room and officers duty station
 

freshwater storage tank with vent on top
 
 
 
Build log part 9 to follow....

Build log part 7
 
ship is now tugged out alongside the Fitting out quay of the yard
 
 
 
 

etched brass stairs
 

check, fit to scale approved OK
 

brass rim fitted to lower deckhousing, all around the boatsdeck
 

self explaining
 

in opposite to the workdecks the forecastle deck is Wood planked
 

the soldering Task gets a Little tricky here (too much heat in one place loostens the already tight neighbour ones again)
 

checking with plan, space requirements for boats, Davits and boat Access platforms
 

cardboard template for complete boat deck base
 

stanchions for upper Bridge fixed and soldered
note the workdecks are painted tan, "earthbrown"
 

self explaining...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 8 to follow....

Build log part 6
 
 
 

hold rim with removable hatchcovers
 

raw Forward mast
 

crows nest, the Access ladder from deck not fixed yet
 

take up Points for swivel loadbeams
 

after some paint touchups ...
 

plymsol marking at waterline
 

marking of Name and Registration port
 

These 3 pics..., quite pleased with the results so far
 

 

 
 
 
 
Build log part 7 to follow

Build log part 5
 
 

for making the stand Posts I use brass candle holders (found on flee-markets)
 

the anchorchain port reinforcements are fitted
 

begin... rivited structure to deckhouses and hatch rims
 

further Fitting out
 

midship deckhouses, on deck inbetween the coal bunker hatchcovers
 

forecastle compartments
 

so far well under way...
 

workdecks ready for priming, painting
 

the figures are scale 1:100
 

the portside depth indications are in Roman figures
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow....

Build log part 4
 
 
characteristic for These old steamships are the large vents, necessary more than ever when going through hot,tropical zones of calm sea...
 
Here is to give my Version of the vent Hood making..., and the main masts, and crows nest
 
 

sizes and types of vents
 

an Arrangement of inlet and outlet vents
 

prefit check with the decks
 

application of primer after soldering and cleaning the brass surfaces
 

was quite a bunch of individual parts
 

inner Hood surfaces have their own color
 

as well as the outside surfaces
 

Forward and aft mast
 
 

do not throw away your old dome-nuts, they serve for exellent venthoods
 
 

especially those where the dome Shell is made and brased on of thin pressed sheet
 
 
 
 
Build log part 5 to follow.....

Building log part 3
 
 

brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red
 

the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted
 

hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions
 

extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen
 

riged structure in forecastle area
 
 

decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood
 

the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating
 

hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead
 

bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating
 
 

raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 4 to follow.....

Bugra,
upon your request, here a short intercourse and self explaining use of the plate marking tool.
By the way, I use this method on all model hulls that are of rivited structure, only the tooth modul sizes differ acc. to the appr. scale Chosen. The holders for the toothwheels are made from old paintbrushes that would go to the bin otherwise.
 
Cheers
 
Nils
 
 

different wheel (toothsizes, and toothnumbers, also requires a semi soft rubber plate underneath and of course the precut plate
 

(turn around the plate, so the protection foil is up....
 

use a metal ruler, or like here a masons tool, leave plate edge free
 

the roller tool, use Dremel with circle sawblade to cut in the two circular grooves for obtaining 3 toothrows instead of one
 

press tight down the roller tool and move swiftly Forward in one move. Same time press down the ruler
 

looking at the marked edge from the rear side
 

looking at the result of the rivit resembling, (here 3-row riviting)
 

remove the protection foil, Keep the gluefilm side free from dust and debris
 
 
Happy exercising and good success
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 

planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached
 
 

impressions of rudder making components
 

the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later
 

here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull
The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film.
 

Workstation for making the plates
 

leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line
Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows
 

plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate
Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts
 

the upper hull portions have not been plated yet
 

soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck
 

here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight