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johnegert

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Everything posted by johnegert

  1. Thanks, Dave----- whenever anyone says "I merely did....." whatever, I know lots of sound work went into it, as with your efforts on this valuable history. As it often happens, life has interfered with progress on my thread. I had every good intention of rolling along at top speed and getting all work done in a timely manner. As is said in Japan, " Speak of next year and the Devil laughs". But, I will soon show at least minimal progress and as we say on this site, if you want a fast hobby, get a Hayabusa..... john
  2. SYS---- Check your stern gallery and see if the two scrolls above the figures are backward, i.e. whether the scroll curves are going in the wrong direction. I'll bet a bunch of finished Caldercraft Vics are reversed like this---- the part bears only a vague resemblance to the proto--- a weak effort by JoTika. I would hope some more advanced Vic builders than I can tell us what they did. My first reaction(based on photos only) is that the scrolls are also upside down, but they would need some cannibalism to correct, including some judicious de-bulking. Check Wiki image below---- maybe I've gone insane. john http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/HMSVictory.jpg/800px-HMSVictory.jpg
  3. Nenad---- Yeah, some kind of motor tool would be close to the first tier of tool purchases. This is an area where much opinion exists as to the best bang for the $$--- my own favorite is the Proxxon 12 volt system, which I went to after buying a couple of dud Dremels. If $$ is not such an issue, Foredoms have set the standard for many years. For the Criminally Insane, the dental quality drills, i.e. Ram, are the best thing going, and allow one to do their own root canals as a sidelight. For years, it was the ship modelers dream to grab an old dentist's belt driven drill, but I doubt these are out there much anymore. There are some crazy-cheap models available, but I'd be a little leery of them----the quality is too inconsistent. Variable speed is good, single speed is not as good. Shop around for bargains on name brand sets, and check my dear Widget Supply for attachments. And, as always, check the opinion/review comments on Amazon which range from the eminently reasonable-- like mine, of course--- to the totally psychotic. Note that most of the poor reviews come from geeks who try to over tax these hobby tools on full size locomotives and bridge girders. Tinyellie!! You're right! A good makeup box will provide many fine tools, including the airbrush that you insist upon using to color yourself dayglow orange!! john
  4. A whole new world, eh Mikeai?? AND, the Blessed Rev has a big compressor so that he can get a small portable tank ( or even an inner tube--- I had a big tractor tube for awhile that drove the Ex-Admiral into a sputtering rage) and refill it as necessary. I see the model H kits with all three tip sizes for around fifty bucks USA. Add a 25 buck tank, and maybe an el cheapo regulator, and you're in business for well under $100. As said, a huge leap forward.... john
  5. Revenge----- Rattle cans are OK for painting, but if you enter the world of airbrushing, you will never look back. The colors available are light years ahead of stock spray cans, and the refinement of the final texture of the surface is far superior. This may cause the heavens to storm around here, but I would invest in a Paasche Model H set, the simplest of all, and the workhorse for many AB artists who go back to it in spite of their super-techno stable. There is a steep-but-short learning curve which requires practice on old card board box sides, etc., but you'll quickly master the basics. Also, a simple Harbor Freight-type small compressor is a must-- never mind the overrated "Airbrush Compressors". I know the initial expense and learning period seem daunting, but you'll feel a gigantic rush of progress in your modeling. john
  6. Revenge--- Model Expo shows it as available for $12.95, don't know what it costs to mail to you. This still rates as, pound-for-pound, the best book on the mysteries of spiling and other daunting aspects of this art. john
  7. Thanks for your kind attention, Fellers----- Gregor---- the Cutter is a fine little model-- I've built a couple and they sold right away. As for primer, even a rattle can of sandable primer does a good job. If I'm worried about it, I'll airbrush. Michael---- That is indeed a Juno, and behind it a schooner modified to Pickle appearance--- I had in mind a little Euryalus/Pickle type diorama. I'll take some photos and see if they're presentable, given my "correct the crap I just did" painting style.....AND, thank you for those Victory pix-- that is a project I have on the bucket list--- add that last bowline and keel over dead( hopefully not face down on the ship!)--- a genuinely monstrous undertaking. Drux---- I wouldn't call attention to yourself on this bogus "humor" issue. Several members have not found my gibberish especially funny. For God's sake, don't expose yourself to the dangers of Penalty Points !! john
  8. No doubt, Brain.... this love for miniatures must be some kind of genetic kink. Did you know Vita and Dot Koreshoff?? I met them in 1974--- those guys really flew the art by the seat of the pants down there and came up with some lasting principles that I'll bet you guys still follow. Is Deborah K. still active?? I know she left the art for years. I grew up in L.A. Ca. and was lucky enough to know all the old timers. Check "Albuquerque Bonsai Club" online for an 8x10 glossy suitable for framing, and my complimentary autobiography..... john
  9. Oh, Boy!! Finally a bonsai-related question--- sort of. Sugi pine-- not a pine--- is often called Japanese Cedar-- not a cedar-- but falls in the genus cryptomeria. The wood is quite beautiful and wonderfully aromatic, so it gets used for drawer and closet linings in Japan. I have a bunch of trivets made of sugi that really perfume the air when you set a hot cast iron teapot, etc., on them. The wood is light and a bit soft, yet pretty strong. Its much like US red cedar, and spruce--- often used for instrument tops. As to its use on model ships, it may be too splitty for final planking, but should be nice for deck furniture, or applications where softwoods are suitable. Grsjax, you may just decide to sit and smell that smell when you go to saw it up! john
  10. Brian--- Yeah, compared to you guys and your 1:64 it is tiny. And, as I said above, anything even marginally too large on the model looks like a bashed thumb. This gets to be a real problem when it comes time for blocks, especially. .003 on the model= 1 inch on the proto (duh), so we'll be into the Small Parts wire inventory, and the fly fishing supplies. john
  11. Step Two--- a few kit improvements. The masts and yards on this Langton kit are made of white metal, which, though holding detail well, is dangerously soft. As you can see, I replaced the top gallant masts with brass. This has two salutary effects-- It allows a lighter size with better taper, and helps prevent the insanely easy accidental bending of the masts during handling and rigging, which distorts and weakens the white metal to the point of trash. Wood is as good or better, but since everything will be painted anyway, I used some brazing rod I had around. The first pic shows the original on the far left, and the "improved" fore mast and bowsprit on the right. The photo shows me some little bends already introduced in the tops which will have to be fixed. There is also a fair amount of detail to be added/ corrected, but these are the bones. As said before, nothing gives a miniature ship away in photos faster than heaviness at the top--- hopefully, I have begun to prevent this. Meanwhile, I have scraped and sanded the little bit of flash from the hull, and filed out the gunports. Next time, I will have primered the whole mess and we'll get into strategies for painting. john
  12. Pett---- No real disagreement--- I think anybody who works in wood-- or any material, really---- must, sooner or later, come to at least a basic mastery of the tools of the craft and their care and feeding, or else be fated to be behind the curve of improvement in their chosen gig. But it is a small but significant lifestyle change. I hung out in the pre-computer graphics world for a while, and those people went through literally thousands of blades with no care whatsoever to their design or properties--speed/competition ruled all decisions. But in our world, at the top of the ladder, will be those whose level of care will lead them into many learning curves. I admire you, Pett. OK I just went over to work and put a bunch of new blades into my little cryotreatment ewer with liquid nitrogen. Let's see what -300f will do to 'em. john
  13. Sam--- Does it say "zirconium nitride coated"?? My package trumpets that fact....As said, I seem to be getting better mileage, but still break off the tips on #11's with disgusting regularity. Yeah, you start to wish they'd leave well enough alone-- gimme 100 SS #11's, and quit screwing around, eh. john
  14. All right, ye bilge rats....in response to a rapidly diminishing number of requests, here comes the build log you've been dreading. If God is both patient and willing, this log will cover the constructing, painting, rigging, and display of a somewhat generic HMS Cruizer class brig-rigged sloop of about 1797 in 1:300 scale. All of the historical heavy lifting has been done by Dave Fellingham----over on the Nautical History thread-- a great piece of research. All I can do regarding this history is to reiterate that the class was probably the most numerous of the Royal Navy, and that with its 16x32lb Carronades, it was fast, seaworthy, as mean as a frigate at close quarters for far less cost to build, and 1/3 the crew. The kit is made by Langton Miniatures, known best for 1:1200 wargame ships. Why Rod and Carol Langton ventured into the 1:300 swamp with these complex models is a mystery to me--- anybody who makes one of these things and bashes it around in a game should be neutered forthwith. Suffice to say that I love both company and product-- when I first saw the John Westwood built ships on their website, I was hooked. The books that pertain specifically to what is called "extreme miniatures" are: 1) Two wonderful titles by Donald McNarry-- "Shipbuilding in Miniature" and "Ship Models in Miniature". Every modeler's library should have these, especially since they are all but free on the used market. 2) "Ships in Miniature" by Lloyd McCaffery a curious fellow who may set your teeth on edge a bit, but who is a crazily skillful builder.3) I also admire Phillip Reed's books, especially "Period Ship Modelmaking". Of course, all other good model ship books are useful, but these are specific to small scales. A couple of general comments apply for "The Short Ships". I've found that if anything on these teeny-weenies is out of scale, it looks like hell. Better to suggest or omit detail if you can't get it down to size. Also, one of the things that really makes a small waterline model great is a strong sense of "taper", ie, a heroic effort to not let the topmasts, bowsprit, and yards look too beefy--- a problem which limits the realism of small scale. The question "why not scratchbuild" is probably pertinent here. I've done a bunch, but just don't feel the urge to set up for that work anymore. Part of this is living in the sticks and not being able to find raw materials--- even the model RR store in Albuquerque shut down-- there is no bigger buzz-kill for me than not having what I need. These kits solve most of that problem---as you will see. OK--- The pix...#1 is the box laid out--- note chapstick for scale, and little in-progress waifs in rear. #4is the hull, which at this stage looks like a dead albino anchovy. #3 are the plan sheets-- plenty good though not exhaustive. #2 is intended to dispell the notion that one needs delicate hands to do this work--mine,as you see, look like mutant tree roots from years of US football.(Note also phone # of Fly-Tying shop in Alb. scrawled on hand-- a fine source of wire, etc. for minis). This is more a mental challenge than a physical one. Please be critical. I've gotten into some patterns of sloth and carelessness which I hope will improve with this log. The next installment will show a few efforts to improve the basic kit. john
  15. GM--- For gouges, I use Flexcut's stone--not a water stone--- that has several properly shaped "troughs" to sharpen the gouge edge, and hone the inside surface. I have also rigged up some stropping leather gizmos to finish the job. For my use, there is nothing better than a small selection of water stones which I keep in a gallon jug full of H2O. I first used them in Japan in the early 70's, and fell right in love with them. With care, you can get to sushi/fugu slicing, mirror finish, seppuku standard edges--- really neat. I like diamond stones and hones for quick, while you're working, tune ups. As I said, this sharpening fetish can become an avocation itself, which saves a lot of $$ since there's no need to buy the stupid ship kits anymore. john
  16. El Medico--- I'd agree with the Kahuna-- I'd soon be a sharpening hobbyist rather than a model builder if I started resharpening #11's. It's possible, of course, and I've done it on my Japanese water stones ( if you try 'em, you won't go back to Arkansas) which I use for my fine little Flexcut carving tools, as well as all my bonsai tools. Have you guys tried the new zirconium coated Xacto #11's-- pretty darn good, but brittle--even easier to break off that blade tip. Doc-- Google "Hummel Woodworking" and you will be introduced to the strange and arcane world of bird carving. You think WE'RE weird??? But these Odd Ones know their tools and how to treat them. They have a wonderful printed catalog they'll be happy to ensnare you with.... john
  17. Petty Officer--- Yeah, we've always considered anything that could blow other people's gonads off at a high rate to be "beautiful"...I could never imagine us creating these rococo masterpieces on anything(except, of course, cars). I think you're recalling that a broadside was really fired about one gun at a time, kind of a rolling thunder effect. Also, I always have to remember that the kind of construction involved here(as in land architecture of the period) was built to last. Hell JPett!! You're from Texas and I'm from New Mexico--- we just hope our single wide mobile homes last 'til next year!!! john
  18. Guys-- it is remarkable when you consider it. I imagine, just as a guess, that a couple of ideas apply: I'd bet that much of this "Cabinetry" acted as a sort of honorarium to captains and admirals in a time of constant manpower shortages--- to ask someone of noble birth and/or high ability to confine themselves to a ship full of seamen for years needed some decent perks. Also, this type of ceremonial design richness has been a symbol of national power for eons. The British have always excelled at this stuff---- they fired it up again during the Queen's Anniversary, though it all has been toned down somewhat. The US has never done it very well--- part of our rebellious trip, I guess---- and you'd really have to go back to JFK's funeral to see it at its max. Finally, the idea of pride in craftsmanship as a symbol of cultural greatness has drifted away from us, as well, toward a more utilitarian ideal. But when you consider the devastation of a broadside through the stern, you'd think they would have armored the damn things..... john
  19. Actually, Tar, Queequeg came from CWG's name and my attempt to phoneticize it-- how obscure is THAT?? I would argue that "serious subjects" include sickness, human suffering, war, and quite some few others. Model ship sterns...... I don't think so. john
  20. It's a JOKE, B.E. Remember jokes?? john
  21. YES, Queequeg...... you UNDERSTAND. You're not like THE OTHERS........I don't know why this bugs me so intensely, except that it's such a beautiful feature of the Big Vic, and it demonstrates the remarkable level of design sense and skill these naval architects had. Very much like a violin, in fact.... john
  22. Robin---- No need to ever apologize around here!! Your comments are interesting and valuable. Hell, I misunderstood the whole question........nothing new there. Aren't those model photos beautiful!! I think that Wyllie waterline model is the best Victory depiction in the world---- better as a piece of art than Longridge's. john
  23. JPett---- I have been griping about this for years. The stern of the Vic is a rather complex compound curve, which VERY few kits reproduce correctly. There is a substantial parabolic arc athwartships shown by the port-to-starboard curve of the taff rail. When I see a flat face to the stern gallery, as most kits have it, it looks goofy when compared to the actual ship, which is so gracefully curved. I haven't checked availability, but a good plan view of this curvature is shown in Basil Lavis' "HMS Victory as in 1805", a thin but meaty portfolio of plans in a paperback format. There is a 1/8" scale drawing of the deck showing all belaying points--- very valuable--- and a clear representation of this curve. These huge old weapon platforms were beautifully designed, and it's too bad so many of our models don't do that justice--- see also the bow basketry, which is another sore point with me. It's a little like trying to make an accurate model of the Parthenon with Legos....... OK--- Back to my little room. john
  24. Go to the planking and plating topic in the forum directory, and look at what the other crazies are doing. On most of their builds, they are either using Caldercraft or Amati commercial plates or using some variety of stained glass coppering material. The few tiny miniature degenerates like me have used copper shim stock, or even painted paper. But your gap question is only going to be answered by "don't make any damn gaps!!", I'm afraid. This work is not as hard as it seems, and is harder to explain than to do. The two Big Deals are to lay them in a proper lines, and to get the brickwork-like stagger pattern correct. There's a ton of good info here and at other sites---- search "coppering model ships" and you'll get a bunch of hits. THEN, ask our resident authorities any question you need, and they will tell you more than you ever wanted to know. You will soon be an old hand at this. john
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