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About johnegert

  • Birthday 03/01/1945

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  • Location
    Socorro, New Mexico USA
  • Interests
    Retired, now teaching Bonsai in Albuquerque twice a month, working part-time at New Mexico Inst. of Mining & Tech. Lover of all miniature things/scale models/dioramas, etc.

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  1. Thanks, Dave----- whenever anyone says "I merely did....." whatever, I know lots of sound work went into it, as with your efforts on this valuable history. As it often happens, life has interfered with progress on my thread. I had every good intention of rolling along at top speed and getting all work done in a timely manner. As is said in Japan, " Speak of next year and the Devil laughs". But, I will soon show at least minimal progress and as we say on this site, if you want a fast hobby, get a Hayabusa..... john
  2. SYS---- Check your stern gallery and see if the two scrolls above the figures are backward, i.e. whether the scroll curves are going in the wrong direction. I'll bet a bunch of finished Caldercraft Vics are reversed like this---- the part bears only a vague resemblance to the proto--- a weak effort by JoTika. I would hope some more advanced Vic builders than I can tell us what they did. My first reaction(based on photos only) is that the scrolls are also upside down, but they would need some cannibalism to correct, including some judicious de-bulking. Check Wiki image below---- maybe I've gone
  3. Nenad---- Yeah, some kind of motor tool would be close to the first tier of tool purchases. This is an area where much opinion exists as to the best bang for the $$--- my own favorite is the Proxxon 12 volt system, which I went to after buying a couple of dud Dremels. If $$ is not such an issue, Foredoms have set the standard for many years. For the Criminally Insane, the dental quality drills, i.e. Ram, are the best thing going, and allow one to do their own root canals as a sidelight. For years, it was the ship modelers dream to grab an old dentist's belt driven drill, but I doubt these are
  4. Jesse---- It's basically a wood carving, painted and polyurethaned. I start with a piece of basswood about 1/4" thick, carve the ship's bottom outline so it sits a bit into the wood, draw the swell patterns on it that I get from looking at paintings, drawings, and photos, and use two gouges. First, I note the wind direction, then use a larger gouge to make the basic patterns of high and low, keeping the cuts perpendicular to the wind direction. Next, I use the smaller gouge to go over most of the larger cuts to create more "chop". I steel wool the board to get rid of fuzz, then prime it with
  5. A whole new world, eh Mikeai?? AND, the Blessed Rev has a big compressor so that he can get a small portable tank ( or even an inner tube--- I had a big tractor tube for awhile that drove the Ex-Admiral into a sputtering rage) and refill it as necessary. I see the model H kits with all three tip sizes for around fifty bucks USA. Add a 25 buck tank, and maybe an el cheapo regulator, and you're in business for well under $100. As said, a huge leap forward.... john
  6. Revenge----- Rattle cans are OK for painting, but if you enter the world of airbrushing, you will never look back. The colors available are light years ahead of stock spray cans, and the refinement of the final texture of the surface is far superior. This may cause the heavens to storm around here, but I would invest in a Paasche Model H set, the simplest of all, and the workhorse for many AB artists who go back to it in spite of their super-techno stable. There is a steep-but-short learning curve which requires practice on old card board box sides, etc., but you'll quickly master the basics.
  7. Revenge--- Model Expo shows it as available for $12.95, don't know what it costs to mail to you. This still rates as, pound-for-pound, the best book on the mysteries of spiling and other daunting aspects of this art. john
  8. Thanks for your kind attention, Fellers----- Gregor---- the Cutter is a fine little model-- I've built a couple and they sold right away. As for primer, even a rattle can of sandable primer does a good job. If I'm worried about it, I'll airbrush. Michael---- That is indeed a Juno, and behind it a schooner modified to Pickle appearance--- I had in mind a little Euryalus/Pickle type diorama. I'll take some photos and see if they're presentable, given my "correct the crap I just did" painting style.....AND, thank you for those Victory pix-- that is a project I have on the bucket list--- add tha
  9. Thanks, Mike---- Im trying to write a build log on a 1:300 HMS Cruizer class on the kit build thread. Its twice as large as this Victory, but still pretty damn small..... john
  10. No doubt, Brain.... this love for miniatures must be some kind of genetic kink. Did you know Vita and Dot Koreshoff?? I met them in 1974--- those guys really flew the art by the seat of the pants down there and came up with some lasting principles that I'll bet you guys still follow. Is Deborah K. still active?? I know she left the art for years. I grew up in L.A. Ca. and was lucky enough to know all the old timers. Check "Albuquerque Bonsai Club" online for an 8x10 glossy suitable for framing, and my complimentary autobiography..... john
  11. Oh, Boy!! Finally a bonsai-related question--- sort of. Sugi pine-- not a pine--- is often called Japanese Cedar-- not a cedar-- but falls in the genus cryptomeria. The wood is quite beautiful and wonderfully aromatic, so it gets used for drawer and closet linings in Japan. I have a bunch of trivets made of sugi that really perfume the air when you set a hot cast iron teapot, etc., on them. The wood is light and a bit soft, yet pretty strong. Its much like US red cedar, and spruce--- often used for instrument tops. As to its use on model ships, it may be too splitty for final planking, but sho
  12. Brian--- Yeah, compared to you guys and your 1:64 it is tiny. And, as I said above, anything even marginally too large on the model looks like a bashed thumb. This gets to be a real problem when it comes time for blocks, especially. .003 on the model= 1 inch on the proto (duh), so we'll be into the Small Parts wire inventory, and the fly fishing supplies. john
  13. Step Two--- a few kit improvements. The masts and yards on this Langton kit are made of white metal, which, though holding detail well, is dangerously soft. As you can see, I replaced the top gallant masts with brass. This has two salutary effects-- It allows a lighter size with better taper, and helps prevent the insanely easy accidental bending of the masts during handling and rigging, which distorts and weakens the white metal to the point of trash. Wood is as good or better, but since everything will be painted anyway, I used some brazing rod I had around. The first pic shows the origina
  14. Pett---- No real disagreement--- I think anybody who works in wood-- or any material, really---- must, sooner or later, come to at least a basic mastery of the tools of the craft and their care and feeding, or else be fated to be behind the curve of improvement in their chosen gig. But it is a small but significant lifestyle change. I hung out in the pre-computer graphics world for a while, and those people went through literally thousands of blades with no care whatsoever to their design or properties--speed/competition ruled all decisions. But in our world, at the top of the ladder, will be
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