pirozzi

Hi Brian,
You are correct about different approaches. I have been building ships for long time, as you have. You develop a style that works for you. Still, I learn something new all the time from others like yourself. That is why I spend so much time on this forum. I have noticed however, that there are some that are convinced that their ways are the only correct ways. I am never closed to learning new ideas and this has really helped me along.
 
Thanks,
Vince

Hi Brian,
You are correct about different approaches. I have been building ships for long time, as you have. You develop a style that works for you. Still, I learn something new all the time from others like yourself. That is why I spend so much time on this forum. I have noticed however, that there are some that are convinced that their ways are the only correct ways. I am never closed to learning new ideas and this has really helped me along.
 
Thanks,
Vince

Hi Brian,
You are correct about different approaches. I have been building ships for long time, as you have. You develop a style that works for you. Still, I learn something new all the time from others like yourself. That is why I spend so much time on this forum. I have noticed however, that there are some that are convinced that their ways are the only correct ways. I am never closed to learning new ideas and this has really helped me along.
 
Thanks,
Vince

The forecastle deck is finished, planked, and the foreward supporting blocks in place to hold up the deck and as a backing for the prow deck in the future. The double frame around the stove chimney has been added along with the grating. There is some inclination to place other deck fixtures at this point such as bits and fife rail, but I will not do this just yet. The whole hull will have to be inverted at some point to add the second finish layer of planking and anything protuding up to or past the bulwarks could get in the way or be damaged. I had no choice with the stove, as it had to be placed before the deck was installed.
 
I think next up will be to add the second layer of first planking to the inside of the bulwarks and then extend the first planking up beyond the main deck along the entire hull to correspond with the aft upper decks.
 
Vince P.

I obtained some 2.0mm wide x 0.3mm copper strip from Ages of Sail. I cut it to 9.0mm length and bent it around a 1.5mm drill bit to make the trunion band for the gun carriages. It came out pretty good, but the photo is a little blurry (crappy camera).
 
Vince P.

The forecastle deck is finished, planked, and the foreward supporting blocks in place to hold up the deck and as a backing for the prow deck in the future. The double frame around the stove chimney has been added along with the grating. There is some inclination to place other deck fixtures at this point such as bits and fife rail, but I will not do this just yet. The whole hull will have to be inverted at some point to add the second finish layer of planking and anything protuding up to or past the bulwarks could get in the way or be damaged. I had no choice with the stove, as it had to be placed before the deck was installed.
 
I think next up will be to add the second layer of first planking to the inside of the bulwarks and then extend the first planking up beyond the main deck along the entire hull to correspond with the aft upper decks.
 
Vince P.

The forecastle deck is finished, planked, and the foreward supporting blocks in place to hold up the deck and as a backing for the prow deck in the future. The double frame around the stove chimney has been added along with the grating. There is some inclination to place other deck fixtures at this point such as bits and fife rail, but I will not do this just yet. The whole hull will have to be inverted at some point to add the second finish layer of planking and anything protuding up to or past the bulwarks could get in the way or be damaged. I had no choice with the stove, as it had to be placed before the deck was installed.
 
I think next up will be to add the second layer of first planking to the inside of the bulwarks and then extend the first planking up beyond the main deck along the entire hull to correspond with the aft upper decks.
 
Vince P.

I obtained some 2.0mm wide x 0.3mm copper strip from Ages of Sail. I cut it to 9.0mm length and bent it around a 1.5mm drill bit to make the trunion band for the gun carriages. It came out pretty good, but the photo is a little blurry (crappy camera).
 
Vince P.

I obtained some 2.0mm wide x 0.3mm copper strip from Ages of Sail. I cut it to 9.0mm length and bent it around a 1.5mm drill bit to make the trunion band for the gun carriages. It came out pretty good, but the photo is a little blurry (crappy camera).
 
Vince P.

I obtained some 2.0mm wide x 0.3mm copper strip from Ages of Sail. I cut it to 9.0mm length and bent it around a 1.5mm drill bit to make the trunion band for the gun carriages. It came out pretty good, but the photo is a little blurry (crappy camera).
 
Vince P.

Yes, the color is very much like bricks. I have a model railroad shop nearby and they have a brick red color paint that I think will be perfect.
Vince

Yes, the color is very much like bricks. I have a model railroad shop nearby and they have a brick red color paint that I think will be perfect.
Vince

Placing the forecastle deck. It sits on top of bulkheads "B, C, D, E, F", but the upper section of bulkhead "B" has to be cut away at the level of the main deck. This leaves a considerable length of the forecastle hanging with no support at the aft end. Ships had support members called "Breast Beams" to support the overhanging ends of upper decks. Here this has to be made from scratch. I used the cut off top of bulkhead B to mark off the convex slope of the deck onto the lumber used to make the beam. I used a piece of plywood that was one of the cutouts from the laser cut bulkheads. I measured the width and height needed from the ship and cut it out with a jig saw. I then took a piece of 4x4mm stock and curved it to match the deck curvature and glued it across the top with a recess equal to the thickness of the false forecastle deck. This will provide a rebate across the top of the beam to support the false decking and apply the correct curvature. It was then finished with a coat of golden oak.
Before placing the deck, the stove was placed and a cutout made to the deck for the stack. The foremast was also inserted to make sure alignment was correct since the mast goes throught 4 decks. Once the deck was aligned and secured, the breast beam was placed and secured as well. The spaces you see at the edges where it meets the bulwarks will be filled with the 2 inner layers of planking to be added to bulwarks.
 
Vince P.
 

Hi Brian,
Thanks. I am planning to paint the bulwarks red as was customary for warships of that era.
Vince

Hi Brian,
Thanks. I am planning to paint the bulwarks red as was customary for warships of that era.
Vince

Here's the seemingly mandatory history:
 
This ship caught my attention the first time I saw the plans because it had a white flag. Laughed a bit until I researched it. But then the lines caught my eye. She's a 32 gun, frigate of the 8 pound gun class.

A bit of history... built 1755 in Brest. Not too much in the way of history available except for some highlights:

1756 - Carried troops to Quebec.

1757 - with Marsaint's divsion on the 21 Oct. A "most bloody conflict" with the British off Santo Domingo. No ships lost on either side, but a high casualty count.

1762 - expeditions against British shipping and the Sale pirates.

1778 - she was part of a small fleet in company with Le Belle Poule, Hirondelle and Le Coureur. They ran into Keppel's squadron. Licorne as surrounded and captured. La Belle Poule had a famous two-hour duel with the British and escaped to a nearby bay.

For the next five years it was known as HMS Licorne  in the British Navy.

1783 - Sold out of the service.
 
From the plans, it appears to be a good beginner scratchbuild. Clean lines, minimal carving. Some things from the Hahn plans needs changing such as the mast caps and the cannon rigging. I'm still researching via Boudriot and Frolich.

I'm planning on completely planking her, but that may change.
 

Hi Keith,
I am planning to add another layer of first planking and the inner finish layer. Since both Julier and Pete suggest not applying the second outer layer of finish planking to the areas covered by the metal ornamental siding, this will give 3 layers in all and will not intrude too far into the inner spaces of the main deck, which will cause issues with the bulkheads and other fixtures. I believe this is the way to go.
 
As far as keeping the bulwark planks straight, mine are pretty straight but not perfect. When placing each one. I applied tension lengthwise and glued each piece on the edge first about 1/2" at a time with CA glue and a hair drier. When the second layer is added they can be clamped with strips of thick hard wood (plywood cutout scaprs) to make them really staight before the glue dries.
 
Vince P.

Hi Keith,
I am planning to add another layer of first planking and the inner finish layer. Since both Julier and Pete suggest not applying the second outer layer of finish planking to the areas covered by the metal ornamental siding, this will give 3 layers in all and will not intrude too far into the inner spaces of the main deck, which will cause issues with the bulkheads and other fixtures. I believe this is the way to go.
 
As far as keeping the bulwark planks straight, mine are pretty straight but not perfect. When placing each one. I applied tension lengthwise and glued each piece on the edge first about 1/2" at a time with CA glue and a hair drier. When the second layer is added they can be clamped with strips of thick hard wood (plywood cutout scaprs) to make them really staight before the glue dries.
 
Vince P.

Placing the forecastle deck. It sits on top of bulkheads "B, C, D, E, F", but the upper section of bulkhead "B" has to be cut away at the level of the main deck. This leaves a considerable length of the forecastle hanging with no support at the aft end. Ships had support members called "Breast Beams" to support the overhanging ends of upper decks. Here this has to be made from scratch. I used the cut off top of bulkhead B to mark off the convex slope of the deck onto the lumber used to make the beam. I used a piece of plywood that was one of the cutouts from the laser cut bulkheads. I measured the width and height needed from the ship and cut it out with a jig saw. I then took a piece of 4x4mm stock and curved it to match the deck curvature and glued it across the top with a recess equal to the thickness of the false forecastle deck. This will provide a rebate across the top of the beam to support the false decking and apply the correct curvature. It was then finished with a coat of golden oak.
Before placing the deck, the stove was placed and a cutout made to the deck for the stack. The foremast was also inserted to make sure alignment was correct since the mast goes throught 4 decks. Once the deck was aligned and secured, the breast beam was placed and secured as well. The spaces you see at the edges where it meets the bulwarks will be filled with the 2 inner layers of planking to be added to bulwarks.
 
Vince P.
 

Placing the bitts and fife rail around main mast.
 
The plans do not show belaying pins in the fife rails and they are not included in the kit. The original ship was launched as the HMS Prince in 1670 which was just about the time that belaying pins started to be used. The Royal William was launched in 1719 as a rebuild of the Prince. There is more likelyhood that the RW had belaying pins than not, so I added them. The foremast will have 2-3-2 configuration and both the main and mizzen will have a 1-3-1 configuration. I will not add the taller anchor bitts until the quarter deck is in place because they have to be at the same height and I will use the quarterdeck as the reference.
 
Vince P.

Placing the forecastle deck. It sits on top of bulkheads "B, C, D, E, F", but the upper section of bulkhead "B" has to be cut away at the level of the main deck. This leaves a considerable length of the forecastle hanging with no support at the aft end. Ships had support members called "Breast Beams" to support the overhanging ends of upper decks. Here this has to be made from scratch. I used the cut off top of bulkhead B to mark off the convex slope of the deck onto the lumber used to make the beam. I used a piece of plywood that was one of the cutouts from the laser cut bulkheads. I measured the width and height needed from the ship and cut it out with a jig saw. I then took a piece of 4x4mm stock and curved it to match the deck curvature and glued it across the top with a recess equal to the thickness of the false forecastle deck. This will provide a rebate across the top of the beam to support the false decking and apply the correct curvature. It was then finished with a coat of golden oak.
Before placing the deck, the stove was placed and a cutout made to the deck for the stack. The foremast was also inserted to make sure alignment was correct since the mast goes throught 4 decks. Once the deck was aligned and secured, the breast beam was placed and secured as well. The spaces you see at the edges where it meets the bulwarks will be filled with the 2 inner layers of planking to be added to bulwarks.
 
Vince P.
 

Placing the bitts and fife rail around main mast.
 
The plans do not show belaying pins in the fife rails and they are not included in the kit. The original ship was launched as the HMS Prince in 1670 which was just about the time that belaying pins started to be used. The Royal William was launched in 1719 as a rebuild of the Prince. There is more likelyhood that the RW had belaying pins than not, so I added them. The foremast will have 2-3-2 configuration and both the main and mizzen will have a 1-3-1 configuration. I will not add the taller anchor bitts until the quarter deck is in place because they have to be at the same height and I will use the quarterdeck as the reference.
 
Vince P.

All of the main deck gun ports are either just marked or cut out. Since I am adding another duplicate layer of first planking inside the bulwarks to strengthen it, I only marked those ports. Once the duplicate layer is added (next up), I will cut out the ports. The others below the quarter and forecastle decks are cut out and the gun supports are in place. On all the ports that are in front of bulkheads, I cut them out too, but will close them off with a cover.
 
Vince P.

Placing the bitts and fife rail around main mast.
 
The plans do not show belaying pins in the fife rails and they are not included in the kit. The original ship was launched as the HMS Prince in 1670 which was just about the time that belaying pins started to be used. The Royal William was launched in 1719 as a rebuild of the Prince. There is more likelyhood that the RW had belaying pins than not, so I added them. The foremast will have 2-3-2 configuration and both the main and mizzen will have a 1-3-1 configuration. I will not add the taller anchor bitts until the quarter deck is in place because they have to be at the same height and I will use the quarterdeck as the reference.
 
Vince P.

Placing the bitts and fife rail around main mast.
 
The plans do not show belaying pins in the fife rails and they are not included in the kit. The original ship was launched as the HMS Prince in 1670 which was just about the time that belaying pins started to be used. The Royal William was launched in 1719 as a rebuild of the Prince. There is more likelyhood that the RW had belaying pins than not, so I added them. The foremast will have 2-3-2 configuration and both the main and mizzen will have a 1-3-1 configuration. I will not add the taller anchor bitts until the quarter deck is in place because they have to be at the same height and I will use the quarterdeck as the reference.
 
Vince P.