egkb
-
Posts
1,631 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
egkb reacted to lamarvalley in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
I must say these models are far removed from the models of my youth. I made dozens and dozens of plastic models as a boy but none were this detailed or interesting. I can't say I'll go plastic versus wood but this forum does made me reconsider. Hmmm...
Nice work Kevin, it'll be fun watching this model develop.
-
egkb reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
some great tips there - thank you, no build tonight - Fat club - still on my weight loss journey
going by the hints and tip offered - i hope to follow the colour scheme as per the Flory build http://www.florymodels.co.uk/trumperter-1200-bismark-file/
and have her looking like this, but as stated before this is all new to me, once again thankyou
NOT MY PHOTO (Flory)
-
egkb reacted to JPett in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
Ahoy Peter
I have also had very good success with the "pin wash" which is also very similar and simple to do. It is used to highlight parts that connect at different angles. Mixed the same way as a wash but applied to the "seam" at one point and allowed to run down it.
Speaking of which
Using White glue is an excellent way to hide the gaps you sometimes get mounting the structures on top of each other or on the ship itself. It dries clear and causes the colors of the parts to be reflected into it hiding the glue and filling the seam.
But
NO: it won't fill the big ones, just the little ones . Applied the same way as the pin wash. Thin the glue
-
egkb reacted to NMBROOK in Name the Ship Game
Sorry Jan as well,been very busy with work stuff,you have not been forgotten
Kind Regards Nigel
ps I think Eamonn is still recovering from that mad dash game last week
-
egkb got a reaction from NMBROOK in Name the Ship Game
Sorry Jan, haven't been able to put any time into your challenge recently.. sorry for leaving you 'hanging', hope to get back to you in next few days.. Looks like a bunch of us have abandoned you..
It isn't a conspiracy... Honest :)
Eamonn
Edit 19th Nov.. Have just finished 1 hour of searching... alas I have noting except a Dutch Brig called Pollux, of which I can find no more info..
We may need a few clues I'm afraid..
E
-
egkb got a reaction from NMBROOK in Name the Ship Game
Sorry Jan, been a bit side-tracked lately..
Will take another look later
Eamonn
-
egkb reacted to cdogg in Scotland 1775 by cdogg - Corel - 1:64 - Baltic Ketch
Hey everyone, ran into an issue with the bulkheads and what seems to be a Corel issue. I traced up the bulkheads drawings and compared, the wood laser cuts are actually more aligned then the drawings, if did the drawings some of them would bot be straight!. So, looks like I have a "boatload" of fairing to do. Also, the instructions are detailed but are starting to skip key explanations and focus more on stuff that anyone with past experience already knows.
-
egkb reacted to tkay11 in Super detailing the cutter Sherbourne by George Bandurek
Great to see you re-posting these, George. Thanks very much -- they really will be a help to the Sherbourne (and other) builders!
Tony
-
egkb reacted to georgeband in Super detailing the cutter Sherbourne by George Bandurek
Super detailing the cutter Sherbourne, a guide to building the Caldercraft kit, by George Bandurek.
I published this book in 2011 and at the time there were several threads that showed photos of my build. These are not now easily accessible so I have resurrected some of the information. The attached pdf files are extracts from the book that show how I tackled some of the topics.
I would welcome any comments on these extracts, or if you have bought a copy of the book (thank you!) then please post a review.
More information on the book is available on my website www.grbsolutions.co.uk. Buy direct and you will get a signed copy!
George Bandurek
Shrouds.pdf
Sails MB.pdf
Cannon.pdf
Anchors.pdf
-
egkb reacted to mij in HMS Sussex by mij - Scale 1:48
Hi Dan
The bandsaw is an old 3 wheel INCA, with a blade length of 104", which is capable of cutting 4" oak, for the milling I use a Proxxon DH 40 Planer Ticknesser (Ref: 27040).
The milling does take long time, but as you can see from the cherry, it was worth it.
mij
-
egkb reacted to mij in HMS Sussex by mij - Scale 1:48
Cherry ready for the bandsaw
The cherry cut and ready to be milled.
It was worth the time and effort.
Tulip on the left and Cherry on the right
Start of the new build in cherry.
In the back ground is the one made from tulip.
-
egkb reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
anyway i have taken the criticism like a man, well whimp and done something about it, to me it's better than it was, i removed the front HMS Victory waterway replaced it with 1mm copper wire,
the guards look bigger in the photo, i think the shadow is catching them as they dont look quite so big in the side elevation
-
egkb reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
my sister just rang, you finished that plastic kit yet,
No was the reply,
on asking why i was being subjected to the Spanish inquisition - she remembered me making one about 40 years ago made from about 20 pieces and glue in a tube, when i explained 1700 kit pieces and another 1700 in the PE and longer than the victory she changed the subject- oh hum
-
egkb reacted to The Sailor in J-class yacht Endeavour 1934 by The Sailor - Amati - 1:35
Thank you very much Eamonn, Pygothian and Floyd.
The overall length is 115 cm (3,77 ft), the height is 146 cm (4,79 ft)
-
egkb got a reaction from The Sailor in J-class yacht Endeavour 1934 by The Sailor - Amati - 1:35
Wow!! you would need a 'Bosuns Chair' to work on that mast.. mind you it's probably large enough to rig one to..
Looking Good Richard,
Eamonn
-
egkb got a reaction from augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Jeez that is one teeny little chisel you have there.. Think I'd have to go lie down in a darkened room for a bit after using that little fella :)
Beautiful work as per usual Augie.. tis a pleasure to follow along with you!
Eamonn
-
egkb reacted to augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Planking above the wales continues. It'll be slow going for the next week or so as the 1/8 x1/16" basswood planks need to be notched around (a lot) of gun ports. For those of you facing something like this in the future, here's what it looks like:
I only use hand tools. Here's a photo of a finished notched plank ready for placement. The overall length represents about 22 feet @ 1:64. The plank is laid on the hull and marked for the ports. The notches are made with the chisel, the corners squared with the square file and everything cleaned up with 220 grit sandpaper stuck on an old file (the same width as the outside of the gun ports including a small relief). Sometimes the wood gets pretty thin in the notched portion so be prepared to lose one every now and then.
Now here is that plank glued in place. I use PVA here to allow some time for adjustment.
The process is actually a lot of fun but it does require patience (not my strong suit).
Hope everyone in the Midwest made it safely through the tornadoes. I'm finally going to get my road heading West up into the mountains opened this week. Been 7 weeks since the flood. They did a helluva job since the original prediction was to open for Christmas.
All stay well!
-
egkb reacted to MikeB4 in Phantom by MikeB4 - Model Shipways - scale 1:96
Started coppering the hull today. It's a very time consuming task. I've got about seven and a half hours into it today that includes cutting the copper.I haven't cut all the copper yet. I'll put the plates that I've cut so far on the hull and then finish the rest of them up later.I'm moving along slowly but surely or not so sure but definitely slow,The key is keep moving.
-
egkb reacted to MikeB4 in Phantom by MikeB4 - Model Shipways - scale 1:96
I've shaped and fitted the rudder to the stern.I was a little nervous about this step because you have to drill a hole, but it was relatively easy. I do recommend creating the rudder before drilling so you can line things up with a physical object rather than guessing if you have it right. Another technique I find helpful is to put a piece of tape on the drill bit leaving only 1/8" exposed so you don't drill to deep.
-
egkb reacted to MikeB4 in Phantom by MikeB4 - Model Shipways - scale 1:96
It's taken some time but I've finally shaped the outer hull. It's not perfect but I've got it to a point that I feel satisfied with it.This boat might not turn out to be a museum quality model but I'm pleased to have gotten this far. I also found the way Chuck has you cut the curve of the stem using pieces of 1/8" strip wood has its challenges. I found it next to impossible to get a good bond when you try joining the angled strip to the straight strip.The problem is that there's no way to clamp it. So even though I let the glue try for 24 hours when I attempted to cut the piece out it breaks. The way I ended up resolving it was to glue the two pieces back together again only this time I took a garment pin, stuck it into the stem and cut the pin flush,it worked. So this is my progress thus far.
-
egkb reacted to fnkershner in J-class yacht Endeavour 1934 by The Sailor - Amati - 1:35
Just an FYI to all the mast is 5 ft in length!
-
egkb reacted to aliluke in Armed Virginia Sloop by aliluke - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
Just a couple more...
Cheers
Alistair
-
egkb reacted to aliluke in Armed Virginia Sloop by aliluke - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
This will be the last lot.
Cheers
Alistair
-
egkb reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Andy - cheers. Funny, the method you describe with the light thread was exactly what I found worked best for me. Its a good technique. Didn't get a chance to try the eye serving yet for reason outlined below but will keep that in the toolbox.
Hamilton - your Blandford looks great regardless, doesn't detract in the slightest and you probably avoided a number of headaches.
Couple of progress pictures, doesn't look anywhere near as bad in person, camera definitely has it out for me today. All collars made up and attached to the bowsprit, pretty crowded up there. After experimenting with the authentic eyes and lashing for the bowsprit shroud deadeyes, I used a simple loop for the remainder which were made up by splicing the thicker line to correct size. Don't think it makes much difference in look and its a bit tidier. Splices were attempted to be hidden where possible under and seizing. Sadly many more collars were hurt during this production but the practice was good, especially to get some practice serving.
Also started on the first bob stay following Lever's lead in his 'Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor'
The obligatory question - there are a couple of spots where some spots of GS Hypo glue had gone astray, I've noticed that it can get white/flaky/stringy in some cases. Is it advisable to 'paint' the line (with very dilute paint for example), or some other solution?
-
egkb reacted to Gahm in US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
The catheads are finished. I used walnut and pear (first 2 images) instead of bass wood as it is easier to do the necessary detail work.
Our Emblem ®
