kruginmi

Foremast plan out complete.  Only have the mizzen and Bowsprit assembly to do.  I will be glad when all the math and look ups are complete and I can just measure directly from the plans at hand.
 
I had proportionally modified the location from the main mast of the bottom of the gaff pole as well as the front fish.  Upon reflection I think the optics of them aligning makes more sense so set them to the same height as the main mast.  I have no tourist pics of the mid to bottom of any mast.
 
Another interesting detail was the plans showed a 14mm forward slant of the mast when measured at the top of the t'gallant mast.  When I measured this out it was a 1-2 degree angle at the deck level.  The concern was if I needed to angle the mast caps and trestles.  I will put the angle into the mast itself but think it is so minimal no slanting of the tops will be necessary.  In fact, I wonder how many people will comment that the mast looks tilted (and thus wrong) haha.
 

On to the foremast and more questions / observations.
 
The main mast section worked out to be 24m or 78.74ft in height.  The fore mast section was a tad shorter at 22.3m.  The size of the head, however measured the same.  Even the tops were exactly the same size (even in new kit - referred to as same part #).  I would have thought they would have been reduced proportionally.  As a note the mizzen mast head and top is reduced in size (mast section only 17.75m).
 
This certainly makes it easier to build (make everything 2x) I am just wondering if it is indicative of the real ship.  With all the information I have access to I will go with what I have. 

Unfortunately the only info I have on the tops is from tourist pics from behind and below (not one from forward looking aft LOL).  I have done the best with the information I have.  The crosstrees are equivalent to the main drawing and is not repeated.
Mark

Got up early and decided to get the topmast and t'gallant mast knocked out (get something done every day possible).
 
This is perfect example of the questions I have. 

The topmast cross trees as defined come off of museum ship photos.  The kit equivalents are SUPER simplified (old and new plans).  Additionally, the museum ship does not have deadeyes for the t'gallant shrouds.  Are they simplified because what is seen today is something post 1870?  Are the deadeyes removed because of the state of the mast and to remove weight?  So many questions haha. 
 
At the end of it, I will have to make decisions and move on (this is not a scratch build - LOL).  If anyone has any behind the scenes knowledge let me know.
 
Next up are the spars.  First question right off is that there are no sling cleats.  This is a transition ship with a lot more metal.  I believe these went away in the mid 1800s.  I will do the best with the knowledge I have.
Cheers, Mark

Final for today.  Now just to replicate for the fore and mizzen masts (well, bowsprit also).  With these defined it will be easy to define the backstays.  Defining the backstays will allow me to identify where the above deck cannon ports make sense.  An finally the top deck cannon ports and chain plates will help identify the gun tier cannon port locations.  All connected together.

Plus, my favorite part is I no longer have to measure using a ruler.  It is all there for direct reference.
Note:  This mast is almost directly vertical.  The fore is actually canted forward and the mizzen canted aft. 
2nd Note:  Looking at one pic I did find the sling cleats.  Well, actually it is a single wedge to contain the chains from slipping.
Mark

Foremast plan out complete.  Only have the mizzen and Bowsprit assembly to do.  I will be glad when all the math and look ups are complete and I can just measure directly from the plans at hand.
 
I had proportionally modified the location from the main mast of the bottom of the gaff pole as well as the front fish.  Upon reflection I think the optics of them aligning makes more sense so set them to the same height as the main mast.  I have no tourist pics of the mid to bottom of any mast.
 
Another interesting detail was the plans showed a 14mm forward slant of the mast when measured at the top of the t'gallant mast.  When I measured this out it was a 1-2 degree angle at the deck level.  The concern was if I needed to angle the mast caps and trestles.  I will put the angle into the mast itself but think it is so minimal no slanting of the tops will be necessary.  In fact, I wonder how many people will comment that the mast looks tilted (and thus wrong) haha.
 

Where oh where should that bearding line lie.....    Can't cut it in because of insufficient thickness so I will add a layer.
 
Once again, the beauty of the drawn plans pays out.  I can trace the required template and cut it out.

I traced this out onto some scratch 1/32" basswood (leaving a little margin) and cleaned out the inner side by sanding.

Fit like a glove.  Add some wood glue and let it setup.

A little light sanding and the bearding line is defined and ready for planking.  I need to repeat this as a straight piece on the keel and then two more pieces for the rudder area.  The basswood is much easier to seal and paint.
Mark

Final for today.  Now just to replicate for the fore and mizzen masts (well, bowsprit also).  With these defined it will be easy to define the backstays.  Defining the backstays will allow me to identify where the above deck cannon ports make sense.  An finally the top deck cannon ports and chain plates will help identify the gun tier cannon port locations.  All connected together.

Plus, my favorite part is I no longer have to measure using a ruler.  It is all there for direct reference.
Note:  This mast is almost directly vertical.  The fore is actually canted forward and the mizzen canted aft. 
2nd Note:  Looking at one pic I did find the sling cleats.  Well, actually it is a single wedge to contain the chains from slipping.
Mark

Got up early and decided to get the topmast and t'gallant mast knocked out (get something done every day possible).
 
This is perfect example of the questions I have. 

The topmast cross trees as defined come off of museum ship photos.  The kit equivalents are SUPER simplified (old and new plans).  Additionally, the museum ship does not have deadeyes for the t'gallant shrouds.  Are they simplified because what is seen today is something post 1870?  Are the deadeyes removed because of the state of the mast and to remove weight?  So many questions haha. 
 
At the end of it, I will have to make decisions and move on (this is not a scratch build - LOL).  If anyone has any behind the scenes knowledge let me know.
 
Next up are the spars.  First question right off is that there are no sling cleats.  This is a transition ship with a lot more metal.  I believe these went away in the mid 1800s.  I will do the best with the knowledge I have.
Cheers, Mark

I have started sanding the bulkheads but today I wanted to relax at the drafting table.  So I got my area setup to figure out the masting puzzle of the Jylland.

I had bits and pieces of information, all at different scales (not shown) along with tourist photos that always just misses that area you wanted to look at.  Some revelations were had - for instance the fore and main mast have a pole mast behind the mast for the gaff.  This was found in the pics, because the plans don't show them at all.  I did the cardinal mistake of 'assuming' how this was fitted.  I finally found a side view (surrounded by scaffolding) that showed this pole did not go to the deck.  It had an external mounting between the 1st and 2nd quarter of the mast.  Well, that is a first.
 
After a lot of looking at the information I had, scratching my head, then looking at the Mondfeld 'Historic Ship Models', Lees 'The Masting Rigging of English Ships of War' and finally Volume IV of Antscherl's 'Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780' I came up the Krug approach.  Complicating matters is that this is a ship of 1860 that is in transition.  Lots of metal and steam power.  I came up with the following for the main mast:

I did not draw in the iron hoops but do intend to replicate them.  Any suggestions on anything with the main mast? 
 
Still lots of drafting to do.  I want to replicate for each mast and spar.  Looking at the supplied wood for the masts and spar I know I made the right decision.  It would have looked so different (like a basic model).  For me this is the way to go.
Mark

Got up early and decided to get the topmast and t'gallant mast knocked out (get something done every day possible).
 
This is perfect example of the questions I have. 

The topmast cross trees as defined come off of museum ship photos.  The kit equivalents are SUPER simplified (old and new plans).  Additionally, the museum ship does not have deadeyes for the t'gallant shrouds.  Are they simplified because what is seen today is something post 1870?  Are the deadeyes removed because of the state of the mast and to remove weight?  So many questions haha. 
 
At the end of it, I will have to make decisions and move on (this is not a scratch build - LOL).  If anyone has any behind the scenes knowledge let me know.
 
Next up are the spars.  First question right off is that there are no sling cleats.  This is a transition ship with a lot more metal.  I believe these went away in the mid 1800s.  I will do the best with the knowledge I have.
Cheers, Mark

Small steps but it all adds up.  Glued in the 13th slotted bulkhead, the last contained in the kit.  As mentioned earlier, I will do two additional forward of this last but I need some structure present to identify sizing.  There are also two subsections going from the main deck up to the fore and aft upper decks.

I then proceeded to glue the central spine in.  This was not in the kit.  Given the wonkiness of the bulkheads I defined and cut the slot as well as provided the wood.  This not only strengthens the hull but provides a good basis for the two part false deck.  Sections of the spine will need to be eventually cut away (staircases and mast blocks) but the stability will be taken up by the planking.  The side slots are ignored - they do not line up.  I will glue in spacers between each bulkhead (one each side) for additional stability.

I used glue fillets as opposed to glue in the actual joint.  The wood in the kit was very porous and I found sucked in the glue and became super tacky very fast.  My concern with the snug fit was that I would not be able to get the wood positioned after glue up before It became 'stuck.'  Additionally, this was not a load bearing component.  This will be fine.
 
Tomorrow I hope to get the first half of the false deck glued up.  If things go well I might be affixing the first plank at deck level this weekend.  I will be adding the bulwark supports next to the bulkheads.  
 
Still need to decide on the aft deck size.  Follow the model plans or follow the museum ship.  Thinking to follow the museum ship layout in this regard.
Mark
 

My intent is to do something every evening that I am home.  Today the agenda was full but I still managed to get down to the shipyard.  I cut out the false main deck.  I of course measured three times and still managed to cut a piece short so I will need to go to the store for another 1/32" basswood board.  Additional wood is required for the fore and aft upper decks anyways.

Still a few touches to do before gluing these down.  The decks are cut a little proud to allow sanding to shape.  The rigidity of the hull will certainly be much greater soon.  There is a camber to the deck side to side.  I will glue and brad nail to affix, then pull the nails after the glue dries.
Cheers, Mark

On to the rough in of the bow.  This is a week spot of the model as designed and several changes will be made.  The newer model had some good ideas so I used some of those as well as some of my own.  The last two bulkheads were the following:

You can see their lack of symmetry.  The proposed changes were sketched in and then checked against the build as it stands today - primarily the location of the false deck support.  Once satisfied I cut away the parts no longer needed.

You can see the amount of bulkhead I cut away on the topmost one by seeing just a hint of the previous slots cut in by Billings.  Verified by the plans I drew and by eye, comes out just right.  This was one of those areas where drawing the plans presented a lot of intersection pieces at different angles.  Best to get the base complete and then fine tune on the actual model.

These were all the supports provided by the kit.  I intend to add two additional ones.  One below the forward end of the deck as well as one half way between for support and something to plank against.  This will be quite sturdy eventually.
 
Note:  The bowsprit buts up against the forward bulkhead, coming down the stem.  I did finally look at the supplied wood for the masts and spars fully expecting dowels.  Nope.  They are already sized and shaped.  That will save some time.  Part of me wants to scratch build them but again the intent is to make the kit my Uncle always wanted too.
 
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 

The fun times when the shape of a ship emerges in just a couple of hours.  I have one bulkhead left up front, but am doing some major mods into how it fits the upper deck.  Truth be told, this is about a month in.  Each bulkhead needed extensive work for height, keel cut out and mirror shaping.  But with the plans I drew and mods made, it fit together very well.
The goal right now is to have the false deck attached by the end of the weekend.  I will be adding spacers between each bulkhead for strength when sanding.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

My Uncle had this one bouncing around his house (un-built) since probably the early 70's if not before.  He asked if I could build it which I happily said yes.
Win - Win.  I build a ship, there is a place for it to go.  So here we go!
 
Note:  This is the 'original' kit and not the new updated one.  Actually pretty rough in the wood department - especially pre-cut stuff.  I have spent quite a bit of time getting the pre-cut bulkheads to be usable as well as drafting my own plans off of the supplied ones to make something that fits the actual model.
 
I am just going to jump in from where I am.  I kept updating and modifying the plans based on photos and the the Billings Boats downloaded mini plans for the updated model.  Finally I just said lets make some wood shavings and glue something.  We can figure stuff out as we go.
 

This model is a biggie - 30" hull length.  I am adding a 1/32" false deck below the planking.  The supplied deck will not be used (doesn't fit and stamped lines).  This drawing exercise was essential for figuring out actual locations and good stuff like aft deck rake and bowsprit angle.

In this pic the rear three bulkheads have been glued and now am gluing the forth from the back.  I abandoned the slots on the left and right in each bulkhead since they didn't line up.  I defined and cut the central rib going down the middle.  Yes, there are places where things go below deck (faux stairways, etc) but I want it straight and strong.  Once the false deck is affixed as well as the top level planking cutting through this rib will be fine.
 
You can also see on the central bulkhead aft how much wood needed to be added for the upper deck.
 
So the build is on, with LOTS of scratch upcoming.  Sooner than later need to figure out how far the aft deck goes (my plans show much farther than the museum ship has or the new plans show).
Cheers, Mark
 

So as usual, pulling one string leads to another leads to another.....   I decided to go ahead and finish the bearding line.  The keel was no big deal - an 1/8" strip glued down did the trick.  This will be really beneficial to shaping the bulkheads, there is at least one reaching down farther than the rest.  This defined stop will allow me to shape off of a known.
 
The string referred to was the aft section.  This model has a drop down prop.  From the plans the model has a last minute -oh yah I have to add that to the plans look, just totally inadequate.  For me to skin the aft section I need to figure out what I am going to do here.  I had hacked off the attachment point and added a new rudder attachment point previously.  Looking at a close up pic of the rudder from on line I just started adding pieces.  I did decide to add the tunnel going straight up into the hull so cut that out of the center bulkhead.  The other parts are fixed and remain in the place.  All the components above the prop is the structure that can be pulled up.  I will not make the prop movable vertically but it will look like it can.

Here you can also see the keel add on.  The stern will be shaped blocks along with the lower half of the section preceding.

Tomorrow need to get a bowsprit stand in and probably start truing up the bulkheads.
Mark

I have started sanding the bulkheads but today I wanted to relax at the drafting table.  So I got my area setup to figure out the masting puzzle of the Jylland.

I had bits and pieces of information, all at different scales (not shown) along with tourist photos that always just misses that area you wanted to look at.  Some revelations were had - for instance the fore and main mast have a pole mast behind the mast for the gaff.  This was found in the pics, because the plans don't show them at all.  I did the cardinal mistake of 'assuming' how this was fitted.  I finally found a side view (surrounded by scaffolding) that showed this pole did not go to the deck.  It had an external mounting between the 1st and 2nd quarter of the mast.  Well, that is a first.
 
After a lot of looking at the information I had, scratching my head, then looking at the Mondfeld 'Historic Ship Models', Lees 'The Masting Rigging of English Ships of War' and finally Volume IV of Antscherl's 'Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780' I came up the Krug approach.  Complicating matters is that this is a ship of 1860 that is in transition.  Lots of metal and steam power.  I came up with the following for the main mast:

I did not draw in the iron hoops but do intend to replicate them.  Any suggestions on anything with the main mast? 
 
Still lots of drafting to do.  I want to replicate for each mast and spar.  Looking at the supplied wood for the masts and spar I know I made the right decision.  It would have looked so different (like a basic model).  For me this is the way to go.
Mark

Had over a foot of snow here in Michigan, pretty sore and tired from all the shoveling.
 
Decided to figure out the masting.  The supplied plans (as stated before) bore very little resemblance to any scale.  Luckily I had gone to Billings website and they allowed you to download the same view from their new kit - totally redrawn.  I also was able to download the instructions which had an spar diagram - very key to my plans.
 
I measured the mainyard off of the plans and it was exactly 12cm.  The instructions called for a mainyard size of 30cm.  Thus, a scale factor of 2.5.  I was very suspicious because the numbers were too easy but it played out.
 
The key information I needed to understand was overlaps (mast heads), cheek sizing, as well as how much of the mast is above deck.  I can then easily calculate full mast heights and get things into proportion.
 
I measured out all the key pieces of the masting (main mast data below) and I now have in hand all the measurements I need to draw this out.  I am also looking through on-line pics to get construction details and identify details not present in the model - like the independent gaff mast on the fore and main mast.
 
I intend to scratch build these.  I will make 1:1 scale drawings on my drafting table so I understand the relationship and can measure directly off of plans.  I will definitely start with square stock for all to allow mimicking of actual construction.  A side effort but one that will pay off handsomely.  I will actually use the metric measurements.  For this old Standard guy that will be different.
 
I also need to redraw all the backstays / shrouds on my main plans to conform to the new Billings plans.  These actually make sense.  This will cause me to relocate the lower deck gun ports but now is the time to do it.
-Mark

As a side project I looked at the new plans and they (sort of) talked about rigging lines and where they get tied down.  This was pictorially.  I spent some time looking at the pics (using zoom for my eyes) and documented on paper what this worked out as.  This model did just the basic yard halliards, and braces.  Lifts were shown (actually drooping) but I believe the intent was just to tie them off at the point of contact with the mast.  The Gaffs were less defined (see note below)
 
Given the information defined, I will add lifts as normal (to the best of my ability).  The gaffs will also be rigged correctly with vangs and halliards as standard practice.  I will probably stop there.  Again, it is a model my Uncle always wanted to make so I need to contain myself.
 
I also looked at pics on line and saw the gaffs for the fore and main mast ride along a secondary much smaller diameter mast just aft of the mizzen and main mast.  This is not accounted for in the model at all.  Given the totally circular nature of the supplied wood (both masts and spars) I believe I will be scratch making these to reflect a more realistic look.  This will start with square stock.  This will be much easier when it is time to construct the three tier mast system as well as affix the spars.  More work but in this case I think worth it.
 
The kit also supplied:
     - 191 plastic deadeyes (one size)
     - 31 plastic single blocks (one size)
     - 20 plastic double blocks (one size)
     - 59 metal railing stanchions (one size)
I need to do some counting to see how this is reflected in the plan.  The plastic is well formed.  My first reaction is some painting and they will be just fine.
 
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
Jylland Line ID.pdf

I should add that I have not sanded the bulkheads for fore / aft plank angle yet, that is next.  With the bulkheads now correctly aligned, the plank angle can be added.  -Mark

Up next is the garboard plank strake.
 
The model is a singly planked hull but is designed to be be a flush surface, so well wood filled and sealed.  The 'planks' are primarily 10 and 20 mm wide strips of pretty flexible wood.  The garboard strake will be a 10 mm strip.
 
In a perfect world, with the bearding line defined and well made bulkheads this strake should almost effortlessly slide into place with just a little sanding to set the seat angle of the strake.  Well, this isn't a perfect world.  The bulkheads needed all sorts of modification to make them usable.  I knew they were close but that 'adjusting' would be required.  The following shows the norm when sliding the plank to the conclusion of the bulkhead - visible keel.  On this side I did have one spot on and one that overshot (will need to be sanded down).

This is easily fixed.  I marked the height of the plank on all the bulkheads.  Instead of modifying the bulkheads themselves I am going to affix a piece of adjoining wood sized to the plank that spans the correct dimensions.  As can be seen very little fine tuning was needed but it made all the difference in the world.  After gluing the face of the piece I slide into place, put the strake into place and then pushed the piece against the strake along it's entire length.  Then simply remove the strake and let the glue dry.  I skipped every other bulkhead with a small section of sample strake to allow the drying to occur.  Didn't take very long and really no sanding.

When viewed from the other side the delta achieved is seen.  Test fitting the strake provides the result I was looking for.

The strake still needs some tuning on how it meets the strake face wise but this is totally different than not fitting.
 
This is at the bottom of the ship.  Once all strakes are affixed, gaps filled, wood sealed and finally painted it will look marvelous.  I fixed these problems in less than 1/2 hour each side.
 
Planking a model is where a lot of people stop or give up halfway.  I am no expert but after doing a couple of hulls I feel pretty confident.  The key is prep and having a plan.  Hoping to have the garboard strakes affixed this weekend.  See how things go.
 
Next up will be the strake just below the main deck.  I need to add railing supports and this will provide me the strength and support necessary to add those.  Stay tuned.
From a very snowy Michigan, stay safe.  Mark

As a side project I looked at the new plans and they (sort of) talked about rigging lines and where they get tied down.  This was pictorially.  I spent some time looking at the pics (using zoom for my eyes) and documented on paper what this worked out as.  This model did just the basic yard halliards, and braces.  Lifts were shown (actually drooping) but I believe the intent was just to tie them off at the point of contact with the mast.  The Gaffs were less defined (see note below)
 
Given the information defined, I will add lifts as normal (to the best of my ability).  The gaffs will also be rigged correctly with vangs and halliards as standard practice.  I will probably stop there.  Again, it is a model my Uncle always wanted to make so I need to contain myself.
 
I also looked at pics on line and saw the gaffs for the fore and main mast ride along a secondary much smaller diameter mast just aft of the mizzen and main mast.  This is not accounted for in the model at all.  Given the totally circular nature of the supplied wood (both masts and spars) I believe I will be scratch making these to reflect a more realistic look.  This will start with square stock.  This will be much easier when it is time to construct the three tier mast system as well as affix the spars.  More work but in this case I think worth it.
 
The kit also supplied:
     - 191 plastic deadeyes (one size)
     - 31 plastic single blocks (one size)
     - 20 plastic double blocks (one size)
     - 59 metal railing stanchions (one size)
I need to do some counting to see how this is reflected in the plan.  The plastic is well formed.  My first reaction is some painting and they will be just fine.
 
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
Jylland Line ID.pdf

I should add that I have not sanded the bulkheads for fore / aft plank angle yet, that is next.  With the bulkheads now correctly aligned, the plank angle can be added.  -Mark

Up next is the garboard plank strake.
 
The model is a singly planked hull but is designed to be be a flush surface, so well wood filled and sealed.  The 'planks' are primarily 10 and 20 mm wide strips of pretty flexible wood.  The garboard strake will be a 10 mm strip.
 
In a perfect world, with the bearding line defined and well made bulkheads this strake should almost effortlessly slide into place with just a little sanding to set the seat angle of the strake.  Well, this isn't a perfect world.  The bulkheads needed all sorts of modification to make them usable.  I knew they were close but that 'adjusting' would be required.  The following shows the norm when sliding the plank to the conclusion of the bulkhead - visible keel.  On this side I did have one spot on and one that overshot (will need to be sanded down).

This is easily fixed.  I marked the height of the plank on all the bulkheads.  Instead of modifying the bulkheads themselves I am going to affix a piece of adjoining wood sized to the plank that spans the correct dimensions.  As can be seen very little fine tuning was needed but it made all the difference in the world.  After gluing the face of the piece I slide into place, put the strake into place and then pushed the piece against the strake along it's entire length.  Then simply remove the strake and let the glue dry.  I skipped every other bulkhead with a small section of sample strake to allow the drying to occur.  Didn't take very long and really no sanding.

When viewed from the other side the delta achieved is seen.  Test fitting the strake provides the result I was looking for.

The strake still needs some tuning on how it meets the strake face wise but this is totally different than not fitting.
 
This is at the bottom of the ship.  Once all strakes are affixed, gaps filled, wood sealed and finally painted it will look marvelous.  I fixed these problems in less than 1/2 hour each side.
 
Planking a model is where a lot of people stop or give up halfway.  I am no expert but after doing a couple of hulls I feel pretty confident.  The key is prep and having a plan.  Hoping to have the garboard strakes affixed this weekend.  See how things go.
 
Next up will be the strake just below the main deck.  I need to add railing supports and this will provide me the strength and support necessary to add those.  Stay tuned.
From a very snowy Michigan, stay safe.  Mark

I should add that I have not sanded the bulkheads for fore / aft plank angle yet, that is next.  With the bulkheads now correctly aligned, the plank angle can be added.  -Mark