Jump to content

kruginmi

Members
  • Posts

    603
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from AgesOfSail in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    So as usual, pulling one string leads to another leads to another.....   I decided to go ahead and finish the bearding line.  The keel was no big deal - an 1/8" strip glued down did the trick.  This will be really beneficial to shaping the bulkheads, there is at least one reaching down farther than the rest.  This defined stop will allow me to shape off of a known.
     
    The string referred to was the aft section.  This model has a drop down prop.  From the plans the model has a last minute -oh yah I have to add that to the plans look, just totally inadequate.  For me to skin the aft section I need to figure out what I am going to do here.  I had hacked off the attachment point and added a new rudder attachment point previously.  Looking at a close up pic of the rudder from on line I just started adding pieces.  I did decide to add the tunnel going straight up into the hull so cut that out of the center bulkhead.  The other parts are fixed and remain in the place.  All the components above the prop is the structure that can be pulled up.  I will not make the prop movable vertically but it will look like it can.

    Here you can also see the keel add on.  The stern will be shaped blocks along with the lower half of the section preceding.

    Tomorrow need to get a bowsprit stand in and probably start truing up the bulkheads.
    Mark
  2. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    Up next is the garboard plank strake.
     
    The model is a singly planked hull but is designed to be be a flush surface, so well wood filled and sealed.  The 'planks' are primarily 10 and 20 mm wide strips of pretty flexible wood.  The garboard strake will be a 10 mm strip.
     
    In a perfect world, with the bearding line defined and well made bulkheads this strake should almost effortlessly slide into place with just a little sanding to set the seat angle of the strake.  Well, this isn't a perfect world.  The bulkheads needed all sorts of modification to make them usable.  I knew they were close but that 'adjusting' would be required.  The following shows the norm when sliding the plank to the conclusion of the bulkhead - visible keel.  On this side I did have one spot on and one that overshot (will need to be sanded down).

    This is easily fixed.  I marked the height of the plank on all the bulkheads.  Instead of modifying the bulkheads themselves I am going to affix a piece of adjoining wood sized to the plank that spans the correct dimensions.  As can be seen very little fine tuning was needed but it made all the difference in the world.  After gluing the face of the piece I slide into place, put the strake into place and then pushed the piece against the strake along it's entire length.  Then simply remove the strake and let the glue dry.  I skipped every other bulkhead with a small section of sample strake to allow the drying to occur.  Didn't take very long and really no sanding.

    When viewed from the other side the delta achieved is seen.  Test fitting the strake provides the result I was looking for.

    The strake still needs some tuning on how it meets the strake face wise but this is totally different than not fitting.
     
    This is at the bottom of the ship.  Once all strakes are affixed, gaps filled, wood sealed and finally painted it will look marvelous.  I fixed these problems in less than 1/2 hour each side.
     
    Planking a model is where a lot of people stop or give up halfway.  I am no expert but after doing a couple of hulls I feel pretty confident.  The key is prep and having a plan.  Hoping to have the garboard strakes affixed this weekend.  See how things go.
     
    Next up will be the strake just below the main deck.  I need to add railing supports and this will provide me the strength and support necessary to add those.  Stay tuned.
    From a very snowy Michigan, stay safe.  Mark
  3. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    Where oh where should that bearding line lie.....    Can't cut it in because of insufficient thickness so I will add a layer.
     
    Once again, the beauty of the drawn plans pays out.  I can trace the required template and cut it out.

    I traced this out onto some scratch 1/32" basswood (leaving a little margin) and cleaned out the inner side by sanding.

    Fit like a glove.  Add some wood glue and let it setup.

    A little light sanding and the bearding line is defined and ready for planking.  I need to repeat this as a straight piece on the keel and then two more pieces for the rudder area.  The basswood is much easier to seal and paint.
    Mark

  4. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    First of all, to all the Military Veterans out there I salute you.  1LT, 75th FA BDE out of Ft Sill.  Desert Shield/Storm
     
    I managed to get my 1/32" basswood resupply.  Then in two trips to basement I glued and nailed the decks down (1/2 at a time).  Once the glue was set, I removed the nails.  Even starting sanding the edge of the deck to the bulkheads.
    To say the hull has stiffened up is an understatement.

    Next big thing to start visualizing the planking is to set the bearding line.  I cannot carve into the supplied ply, just not wide enough.  Looking at the new kit instructions I found the parts list includes complete dimensions - very handy.  I found the 'keel' was the same width, but they included two 1mm overlays (bearding line on down) to provide the ledge for the plans to land on.  Makes perfect sense.  Already drew them out, now to cut out templates and glue to the assembly.  Should happen tomorrow.
    Cheers, Mark
  5. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    Small steps but it all adds up.  Glued in the 13th slotted bulkhead, the last contained in the kit.  As mentioned earlier, I will do two additional forward of this last but I need some structure present to identify sizing.  There are also two subsections going from the main deck up to the fore and aft upper decks.

    I then proceeded to glue the central spine in.  This was not in the kit.  Given the wonkiness of the bulkheads I defined and cut the slot as well as provided the wood.  This not only strengthens the hull but provides a good basis for the two part false deck.  Sections of the spine will need to be eventually cut away (staircases and mast blocks) but the stability will be taken up by the planking.  The side slots are ignored - they do not line up.  I will glue in spacers between each bulkhead (one each side) for additional stability.

    I used glue fillets as opposed to glue in the actual joint.  The wood in the kit was very porous and I found sucked in the glue and became super tacky very fast.  My concern with the snug fit was that I would not be able to get the wood positioned after glue up before It became 'stuck.'  Additionally, this was not a load bearing component.  This will be fine.
     
    Tomorrow I hope to get the first half of the false deck glued up.  If things go well I might be affixing the first plank at deck level this weekend.  I will be adding the bulwark supports next to the bulkheads.  
     
    Still need to decide on the aft deck size.  Follow the model plans or follow the museum ship.  Thinking to follow the museum ship layout in this regard.
    Mark
     
  6. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    My intent is to do something every evening that I am home.  Today the agenda was full but I still managed to get down to the shipyard.  I cut out the false main deck.  I of course measured three times and still managed to cut a piece short so I will need to go to the store for another 1/32" basswood board.  Additional wood is required for the fore and aft upper decks anyways.

    Still a few touches to do before gluing these down.  The decks are cut a little proud to allow sanding to shape.  The rigidity of the hull will certainly be much greater soon.  There is a camber to the deck side to side.  I will glue and brad nail to affix, then pull the nails after the glue dries.
    Cheers, Mark
  7. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    On to the rough in of the bow.  This is a week spot of the model as designed and several changes will be made.  The newer model had some good ideas so I used some of those as well as some of my own.  The last two bulkheads were the following:

    You can see their lack of symmetry.  The proposed changes were sketched in and then checked against the build as it stands today - primarily the location of the false deck support.  Once satisfied I cut away the parts no longer needed.

    You can see the amount of bulkhead I cut away on the topmost one by seeing just a hint of the previous slots cut in by Billings.  Verified by the plans I drew and by eye, comes out just right.  This was one of those areas where drawing the plans presented a lot of intersection pieces at different angles.  Best to get the base complete and then fine tune on the actual model.

    These were all the supports provided by the kit.  I intend to add two additional ones.  One below the forward end of the deck as well as one half way between for support and something to plank against.  This will be quite sturdy eventually.
     
    Note:  The bowsprit buts up against the forward bulkhead, coming down the stem.  I did finally look at the supplied wood for the masts and spars fully expecting dowels.  Nope.  They are already sized and shaped.  That will save some time.  Part of me wants to scratch build them but again the intent is to make the kit my Uncle always wanted too.
     
    Stay Building My Friends, Mark
     
  8. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from AgesOfSail in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    The fun times when the shape of a ship emerges in just a couple of hours.  I have one bulkhead left up front, but am doing some major mods into how it fits the upper deck.  Truth be told, this is about a month in.  Each bulkhead needed extensive work for height, keel cut out and mirror shaping.  But with the plans I drew and mods made, it fit together very well.
    The goal right now is to have the false deck attached by the end of the weekend.  I will be adding spacers between each bulkhead for strength when sanding.
    Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  9. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from AgesOfSail in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    My Uncle had this one bouncing around his house (un-built) since probably the early 70's if not before.  He asked if I could build it which I happily said yes.
    Win - Win.  I build a ship, there is a place for it to go.  So here we go!
     
    Note:  This is the 'original' kit and not the new updated one.  Actually pretty rough in the wood department - especially pre-cut stuff.  I have spent quite a bit of time getting the pre-cut bulkheads to be usable as well as drafting my own plans off of the supplied ones to make something that fits the actual model.
     
    I am just going to jump in from where I am.  I kept updating and modifying the plans based on photos and the the Billings Boats downloaded mini plans for the updated model.  Finally I just said lets make some wood shavings and glue something.  We can figure stuff out as we go.
     

    This model is a biggie - 30" hull length.  I am adding a 1/32" false deck below the planking.  The supplied deck will not be used (doesn't fit and stamped lines).  This drawing exercise was essential for figuring out actual locations and good stuff like aft deck rake and bowsprit angle.

    In this pic the rear three bulkheads have been glued and now am gluing the forth from the back.  I abandoned the slots on the left and right in each bulkhead since they didn't line up.  I defined and cut the central rib going down the middle.  Yes, there are places where things go below deck (faux stairways, etc) but I want it straight and strong.  Once the false deck is affixed as well as the top level planking cutting through this rib will be fine.
     
    You can also see on the central bulkhead aft how much wood needed to be added for the upper deck.
     
    So the build is on, with LOTS of scratch upcoming.  Sooner than later need to figure out how far the aft deck goes (my plans show much farther than the museum ship has or the new plans show).
    Cheers, Mark
     
  10. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    I should add that I have not sanded the bulkheads for fore / aft plank angle yet, that is next.  With the bulkheads now correctly aligned, the plank angle can be added.  -Mark
  11. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from BobG in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    First of all, to all the Military Veterans out there I salute you.  1LT, 75th FA BDE out of Ft Sill.  Desert Shield/Storm
     
    I managed to get my 1/32" basswood resupply.  Then in two trips to basement I glued and nailed the decks down (1/2 at a time).  Once the glue was set, I removed the nails.  Even starting sanding the edge of the deck to the bulkheads.
    To say the hull has stiffened up is an understatement.

    Next big thing to start visualizing the planking is to set the bearding line.  I cannot carve into the supplied ply, just not wide enough.  Looking at the new kit instructions I found the parts list includes complete dimensions - very handy.  I found the 'keel' was the same width, but they included two 1mm overlays (bearding line on down) to provide the ledge for the plans to land on.  Makes perfect sense.  Already drew them out, now to cut out templates and glue to the assembly.  Should happen tomorrow.
    Cheers, Mark
  12. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from AgesOfSail in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    Small steps but it all adds up.  Glued in the 13th slotted bulkhead, the last contained in the kit.  As mentioned earlier, I will do two additional forward of this last but I need some structure present to identify sizing.  There are also two subsections going from the main deck up to the fore and aft upper decks.

    I then proceeded to glue the central spine in.  This was not in the kit.  Given the wonkiness of the bulkheads I defined and cut the slot as well as provided the wood.  This not only strengthens the hull but provides a good basis for the two part false deck.  Sections of the spine will need to be eventually cut away (staircases and mast blocks) but the stability will be taken up by the planking.  The side slots are ignored - they do not line up.  I will glue in spacers between each bulkhead (one each side) for additional stability.

    I used glue fillets as opposed to glue in the actual joint.  The wood in the kit was very porous and I found sucked in the glue and became super tacky very fast.  My concern with the snug fit was that I would not be able to get the wood positioned after glue up before It became 'stuck.'  Additionally, this was not a load bearing component.  This will be fine.
     
    Tomorrow I hope to get the first half of the false deck glued up.  If things go well I might be affixing the first plank at deck level this weekend.  I will be adding the bulwark supports next to the bulkheads.  
     
    Still need to decide on the aft deck size.  Follow the model plans or follow the museum ship.  Thinking to follow the museum ship layout in this regard.
    Mark
     
  13. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from AgesOfSail in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    My intent is to do something every evening that I am home.  Today the agenda was full but I still managed to get down to the shipyard.  I cut out the false main deck.  I of course measured three times and still managed to cut a piece short so I will need to go to the store for another 1/32" basswood board.  Additional wood is required for the fore and aft upper decks anyways.

    Still a few touches to do before gluing these down.  The decks are cut a little proud to allow sanding to shape.  The rigidity of the hull will certainly be much greater soon.  There is a camber to the deck side to side.  I will glue and brad nail to affix, then pull the nails after the glue dries.
    Cheers, Mark
  14. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from BobG in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    So as usual, pulling one string leads to another leads to another.....   I decided to go ahead and finish the bearding line.  The keel was no big deal - an 1/8" strip glued down did the trick.  This will be really beneficial to shaping the bulkheads, there is at least one reaching down farther than the rest.  This defined stop will allow me to shape off of a known.
     
    The string referred to was the aft section.  This model has a drop down prop.  From the plans the model has a last minute -oh yah I have to add that to the plans look, just totally inadequate.  For me to skin the aft section I need to figure out what I am going to do here.  I had hacked off the attachment point and added a new rudder attachment point previously.  Looking at a close up pic of the rudder from on line I just started adding pieces.  I did decide to add the tunnel going straight up into the hull so cut that out of the center bulkhead.  The other parts are fixed and remain in the place.  All the components above the prop is the structure that can be pulled up.  I will not make the prop movable vertically but it will look like it can.

    Here you can also see the keel add on.  The stern will be shaped blocks along with the lower half of the section preceding.

    Tomorrow need to get a bowsprit stand in and probably start truing up the bulkheads.
    Mark
  15. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from Harvey Golden in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    Where oh where should that bearding line lie.....    Can't cut it in because of insufficient thickness so I will add a layer.
     
    Once again, the beauty of the drawn plans pays out.  I can trace the required template and cut it out.

    I traced this out onto some scratch 1/32" basswood (leaving a little margin) and cleaned out the inner side by sanding.

    Fit like a glove.  Add some wood glue and let it setup.

    A little light sanding and the bearding line is defined and ready for planking.  I need to repeat this as a straight piece on the keel and then two more pieces for the rudder area.  The basswood is much easier to seal and paint.
    Mark

  16. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from Knocklouder in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    First of all, to all the Military Veterans out there I salute you.  1LT, 75th FA BDE out of Ft Sill.  Desert Shield/Storm
     
    I managed to get my 1/32" basswood resupply.  Then in two trips to basement I glued and nailed the decks down (1/2 at a time).  Once the glue was set, I removed the nails.  Even starting sanding the edge of the deck to the bulkheads.
    To say the hull has stiffened up is an understatement.

    Next big thing to start visualizing the planking is to set the bearding line.  I cannot carve into the supplied ply, just not wide enough.  Looking at the new kit instructions I found the parts list includes complete dimensions - very handy.  I found the 'keel' was the same width, but they included two 1mm overlays (bearding line on down) to provide the ledge for the plans to land on.  Makes perfect sense.  Already drew them out, now to cut out templates and glue to the assembly.  Should happen tomorrow.
    Cheers, Mark
  17. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from BobG in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    Small steps but it all adds up.  Glued in the 13th slotted bulkhead, the last contained in the kit.  As mentioned earlier, I will do two additional forward of this last but I need some structure present to identify sizing.  There are also two subsections going from the main deck up to the fore and aft upper decks.

    I then proceeded to glue the central spine in.  This was not in the kit.  Given the wonkiness of the bulkheads I defined and cut the slot as well as provided the wood.  This not only strengthens the hull but provides a good basis for the two part false deck.  Sections of the spine will need to be eventually cut away (staircases and mast blocks) but the stability will be taken up by the planking.  The side slots are ignored - they do not line up.  I will glue in spacers between each bulkhead (one each side) for additional stability.

    I used glue fillets as opposed to glue in the actual joint.  The wood in the kit was very porous and I found sucked in the glue and became super tacky very fast.  My concern with the snug fit was that I would not be able to get the wood positioned after glue up before It became 'stuck.'  Additionally, this was not a load bearing component.  This will be fine.
     
    Tomorrow I hope to get the first half of the false deck glued up.  If things go well I might be affixing the first plank at deck level this weekend.  I will be adding the bulwark supports next to the bulkheads.  
     
    Still need to decide on the aft deck size.  Follow the model plans or follow the museum ship.  Thinking to follow the museum ship layout in this regard.
    Mark
     
  18. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from BobG in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    My intent is to do something every evening that I am home.  Today the agenda was full but I still managed to get down to the shipyard.  I cut out the false main deck.  I of course measured three times and still managed to cut a piece short so I will need to go to the store for another 1/32" basswood board.  Additional wood is required for the fore and aft upper decks anyways.

    Still a few touches to do before gluing these down.  The decks are cut a little proud to allow sanding to shape.  The rigidity of the hull will certainly be much greater soon.  There is a camber to the deck side to side.  I will glue and brad nail to affix, then pull the nails after the glue dries.
    Cheers, Mark
  19. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from AgesOfSail in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    On to the rough in of the bow.  This is a week spot of the model as designed and several changes will be made.  The newer model had some good ideas so I used some of those as well as some of my own.  The last two bulkheads were the following:

    You can see their lack of symmetry.  The proposed changes were sketched in and then checked against the build as it stands today - primarily the location of the false deck support.  Once satisfied I cut away the parts no longer needed.

    You can see the amount of bulkhead I cut away on the topmost one by seeing just a hint of the previous slots cut in by Billings.  Verified by the plans I drew and by eye, comes out just right.  This was one of those areas where drawing the plans presented a lot of intersection pieces at different angles.  Best to get the base complete and then fine tune on the actual model.

    These were all the supports provided by the kit.  I intend to add two additional ones.  One below the forward end of the deck as well as one half way between for support and something to plank against.  This will be quite sturdy eventually.
     
    Note:  The bowsprit buts up against the forward bulkhead, coming down the stem.  I did finally look at the supplied wood for the masts and spars fully expecting dowels.  Nope.  They are already sized and shaped.  That will save some time.  Part of me wants to scratch build them but again the intent is to make the kit my Uncle always wanted too.
     
    Stay Building My Friends, Mark
     
  20. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from BobG in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    The fun times when the shape of a ship emerges in just a couple of hours.  I have one bulkhead left up front, but am doing some major mods into how it fits the upper deck.  Truth be told, this is about a month in.  Each bulkhead needed extensive work for height, keel cut out and mirror shaping.  But with the plans I drew and mods made, it fit together very well.
    The goal right now is to have the false deck attached by the end of the weekend.  I will be adding spacers between each bulkhead for strength when sanding.
    Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  21. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from BobG in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    My Uncle had this one bouncing around his house (un-built) since probably the early 70's if not before.  He asked if I could build it which I happily said yes.
    Win - Win.  I build a ship, there is a place for it to go.  So here we go!
     
    Note:  This is the 'original' kit and not the new updated one.  Actually pretty rough in the wood department - especially pre-cut stuff.  I have spent quite a bit of time getting the pre-cut bulkheads to be usable as well as drafting my own plans off of the supplied ones to make something that fits the actual model.
     
    I am just going to jump in from where I am.  I kept updating and modifying the plans based on photos and the the Billings Boats downloaded mini plans for the updated model.  Finally I just said lets make some wood shavings and glue something.  We can figure stuff out as we go.
     

    This model is a biggie - 30" hull length.  I am adding a 1/32" false deck below the planking.  The supplied deck will not be used (doesn't fit and stamped lines).  This drawing exercise was essential for figuring out actual locations and good stuff like aft deck rake and bowsprit angle.

    In this pic the rear three bulkheads have been glued and now am gluing the forth from the back.  I abandoned the slots on the left and right in each bulkhead since they didn't line up.  I defined and cut the central rib going down the middle.  Yes, there are places where things go below deck (faux stairways, etc) but I want it straight and strong.  Once the false deck is affixed as well as the top level planking cutting through this rib will be fine.
     
    You can also see on the central bulkhead aft how much wood needed to be added for the upper deck.
     
    So the build is on, with LOTS of scratch upcoming.  Sooner than later need to figure out how far the aft deck goes (my plans show much farther than the museum ship has or the new plans show).
    Cheers, Mark
     
  22. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    So as usual, pulling one string leads to another leads to another.....   I decided to go ahead and finish the bearding line.  The keel was no big deal - an 1/8" strip glued down did the trick.  This will be really beneficial to shaping the bulkheads, there is at least one reaching down farther than the rest.  This defined stop will allow me to shape off of a known.
     
    The string referred to was the aft section.  This model has a drop down prop.  From the plans the model has a last minute -oh yah I have to add that to the plans look, just totally inadequate.  For me to skin the aft section I need to figure out what I am going to do here.  I had hacked off the attachment point and added a new rudder attachment point previously.  Looking at a close up pic of the rudder from on line I just started adding pieces.  I did decide to add the tunnel going straight up into the hull so cut that out of the center bulkhead.  The other parts are fixed and remain in the place.  All the components above the prop is the structure that can be pulled up.  I will not make the prop movable vertically but it will look like it can.

    Here you can also see the keel add on.  The stern will be shaped blocks along with the lower half of the section preceding.

    Tomorrow need to get a bowsprit stand in and probably start truing up the bulkheads.
    Mark
  23. Wow!
    kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Lady Anne by kruginmi - FINISHED - 1:50 - kitbash of Artesania Latina Harvey   
    So, after a bit of a hiatus from this site and a return to document my Jylland efforts, I realize I never posted the final pics of the Lady Anne.  To recap I configured the deck (Krug design) to handle the Pride of Baltimore II rigging and true to form that is how I outfitted her.  She turned out pretty nice and met my expectations.
     
    Still haven't made a display case but I keep her close by my work at home desk to give me happy thoughts when I need them. 
    Stay Building My Friends, Mark












  24. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from BobG in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    Where oh where should that bearding line lie.....    Can't cut it in because of insufficient thickness so I will add a layer.
     
    Once again, the beauty of the drawn plans pays out.  I can trace the required template and cut it out.

    I traced this out onto some scratch 1/32" basswood (leaving a little margin) and cleaned out the inner side by sanding.

    Fit like a glove.  Add some wood glue and let it setup.

    A little light sanding and the bearding line is defined and ready for planking.  I need to repeat this as a straight piece on the keel and then two more pieces for the rudder area.  The basswood is much easier to seal and paint.
    Mark

  25. Like
    kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100   
    First of all, to all the Military Veterans out there I salute you.  1LT, 75th FA BDE out of Ft Sill.  Desert Shield/Storm
     
    I managed to get my 1/32" basswood resupply.  Then in two trips to basement I glued and nailed the decks down (1/2 at a time).  Once the glue was set, I removed the nails.  Even starting sanding the edge of the deck to the bulkheads.
    To say the hull has stiffened up is an understatement.

    Next big thing to start visualizing the planking is to set the bearding line.  I cannot carve into the supplied ply, just not wide enough.  Looking at the new kit instructions I found the parts list includes complete dimensions - very handy.  I found the 'keel' was the same width, but they included two 1mm overlays (bearding line on down) to provide the ledge for the plans to land on.  Makes perfect sense.  Already drew them out, now to cut out templates and glue to the assembly.  Should happen tomorrow.
    Cheers, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...