kruginmi

With a good fair wind I added the braces tonight.  Everything still removable and all bulkheads lay flat to easily transfer to vellum when everything done.

Next up is to clean up the bottom edges to the bearding line and work on getting the 1/2 keel added for strength.  Also need to cutout a false deck to get that sizing correct.  - Mark
 

One note of caution (I think most understand this):  When determining frame or bulkhead locations down the keel you cannot just measure from frame to next frame to next frame.  Any measuring missteps will compound themselves over the entire length.  With a 3/16ths inch width frame and 1/4 inch spacing these distances are not 'obvious.'  So I have my handy dandy cheat sheet close by (partial shown below).
 
All frames are identified with their respective size (3/16).   I then (for ease of calculations) do a running total of how may 1/16ths inch each frame is from the stern starting point.  This then is converted to the US method of measuring (metric would have been easier lol).  So frame 'D' starts 1/16 of an inch smaller than 2 inches from the start line.  The orange numbers denotes frames in the current half hull build.  I include the dimensions of spacers to build between these frames (tonight's job).

By using this any measuring issue is restricted to a single frame and not compounded across the whole.  A lot more piece of mind.
Stay Building My Friends,  Mark

One note of caution (I think most understand this):  When determining frame or bulkhead locations down the keel you cannot just measure from frame to next frame to next frame.  Any measuring missteps will compound themselves over the entire length.  With a 3/16ths inch width frame and 1/4 inch spacing these distances are not 'obvious.'  So I have my handy dandy cheat sheet close by (partial shown below).
 
All frames are identified with their respective size (3/16).   I then (for ease of calculations) do a running total of how may 1/16ths inch each frame is from the stern starting point.  This then is converted to the US method of measuring (metric would have been easier lol).  So frame 'D' starts 1/16 of an inch smaller than 2 inches from the start line.  The orange numbers denotes frames in the current half hull build.  I include the dimensions of spacers to build between these frames (tonight's job).

By using this any measuring issue is restricted to a single frame and not compounded across the whole.  A lot more piece of mind.
Stay Building My Friends,  Mark

Hey, Progress!  Visions of Druid dances in my head LOL.  Long time since I have sniffed Rubber Cement.
 
Got everything rough cut.  Next up is to add the tabs for the backboard, then the spacers to solidify.  A keel (1/2 width) also to be made to solidify it all and then......sanding.  Always sanding. 
 
The three values shown per frame are the # frame I have drawn, frame from original FGW ship plans used to define top hull and finally the Chapman line used to derive bottom hull.

Hey, Progress!  Visions of Druid dances in my head LOL.  Long time since I have sniffed Rubber Cement.
 
Got everything rough cut.  Next up is to add the tabs for the backboard, then the spacers to solidify.  A keel (1/2 width) also to be made to solidify it all and then......sanding.  Always sanding. 
 
The three values shown per frame are the # frame I have drawn, frame from original FGW ship plans used to define top hull and finally the Chapman line used to derive bottom hull.

With all this down time (stay safe everyone), made some progress on the FGW.  Got the 1/2 hull proto board setup and the confirmation frames drawn up and glued to a 3/16 basswood board (1/4" frame spacing).  The notch for the board will be added later.  Got to love the smell of rubber cement.
 
I did a lot of off board quality checks on the drawn up frames (top 1/3 is equivalent to FGW, bottom 2/3 from Chapman plans).  Given my hull depth and waterline adopted some issues arose which had to be corrected.  Upon confirmation of these frames on the board, they will be used to create the master set of profiles.
 
Currently thinking the initial build will be a full bulkhead one for speed of construction.  I will see what the next week brings (did get a partial furlough from work so more time!).  My other issue is I have recently taken up guitar.  Competing hobbies LOL.
 
Mark
 

Hey, Progress!  Visions of Druid dances in my head LOL.  Long time since I have sniffed Rubber Cement.
 
Got everything rough cut.  Next up is to add the tabs for the backboard, then the spacers to solidify.  A keel (1/2 width) also to be made to solidify it all and then......sanding.  Always sanding. 
 
The three values shown per frame are the # frame I have drawn, frame from original FGW ship plans used to define top hull and finally the Chapman line used to derive bottom hull.

Hey, Progress!  Visions of Druid dances in my head LOL.  Long time since I have sniffed Rubber Cement.
 
Got everything rough cut.  Next up is to add the tabs for the backboard, then the spacers to solidify.  A keel (1/2 width) also to be made to solidify it all and then......sanding.  Always sanding. 
 
The three values shown per frame are the # frame I have drawn, frame from original FGW ship plans used to define top hull and finally the Chapman line used to derive bottom hull.

With all this down time (stay safe everyone), made some progress on the FGW.  Got the 1/2 hull proto board setup and the confirmation frames drawn up and glued to a 3/16 basswood board (1/4" frame spacing).  The notch for the board will be added later.  Got to love the smell of rubber cement.
 
I did a lot of off board quality checks on the drawn up frames (top 1/3 is equivalent to FGW, bottom 2/3 from Chapman plans).  Given my hull depth and waterline adopted some issues arose which had to be corrected.  Upon confirmation of these frames on the board, they will be used to create the master set of profiles.
 
Currently thinking the initial build will be a full bulkhead one for speed of construction.  I will see what the next week brings (did get a partial furlough from work so more time!).  My other issue is I have recently taken up guitar.  Competing hobbies LOL.
 
Mark
 

I currently have 3 kits of the 1/96 Revell Constitution.  The original was started by my Father prior to his passing that I have recently pulled out to finish.  The other two I have picked up for missing and / or extra parts in the build (warpage, etc).  What I didn't expect to see was the difference in rigging instructions.  The good news is that essentially they say the same thing, one set goes about it more verbally while the other set is more visually based (this set also had separate sheets for with or without sails).  I provide the following comparisons:
 

I actually see them as complimentary, though I give the edge to the (I believe older) set that is more visual.  Drawing out each mast separately keeps the whoops factor minimized.  Just throwing this out there for other 1/96 Revell builders for their information.
 
Mark

With all this down time (stay safe everyone), made some progress on the FGW.  Got the 1/2 hull proto board setup and the confirmation frames drawn up and glued to a 3/16 basswood board (1/4" frame spacing).  The notch for the board will be added later.  Got to love the smell of rubber cement.
 
I did a lot of off board quality checks on the drawn up frames (top 1/3 is equivalent to FGW, bottom 2/3 from Chapman plans).  Given my hull depth and waterline adopted some issues arose which had to be corrected.  Upon confirmation of these frames on the board, they will be used to create the master set of profiles.
 
Currently thinking the initial build will be a full bulkhead one for speed of construction.  I will see what the next week brings (did get a partial furlough from work so more time!).  My other issue is I have recently taken up guitar.  Competing hobbies LOL.
 
Mark
 

Hey, Phantasm - sorry for delay.  The Intellectual Property of the rigging diagrams is owned by the Michigan Maritime Museum.   They currently have no plans to make them available (much to my chagrin and astonishment).  I am hoping that this attitude will change.
 
Mark

With all this down time (stay safe everyone), made some progress on the FGW.  Got the 1/2 hull proto board setup and the confirmation frames drawn up and glued to a 3/16 basswood board (1/4" frame spacing).  The notch for the board will be added later.  Got to love the smell of rubber cement.
 
I did a lot of off board quality checks on the drawn up frames (top 1/3 is equivalent to FGW, bottom 2/3 from Chapman plans).  Given my hull depth and waterline adopted some issues arose which had to be corrected.  Upon confirmation of these frames on the board, they will be used to create the master set of profiles.
 
Currently thinking the initial build will be a full bulkhead one for speed of construction.  I will see what the next week brings (did get a partial furlough from work so more time!).  My other issue is I have recently taken up guitar.  Competing hobbies LOL.
 
Mark
 

Hey Spellapeaka and Martin,  Not dead yet!  (haha).
 
This thing called life has certainly flipped things upside down for me.  I appreciate the comments and the nudge.  The Lady Anne sits at arms length still ready for the rigging (laying in ordinary).  Maybe it is time.  Still love the hobby.
 
Mark

Doing some clean up when I looked at my bench and smiled. The way things ought to be. 

Well, it has been awhile but the wood always waits.  Good to see a lot of familiar names (and faces!).
 
Summary:  I am working to build a 1:48 scale model of the 'Friends Good Will' by access to replica build plans and lots of one on one discussions with the ship master.

 
The Michigan Maritime Museum sails a recreation of the 'Friends Good Will' - a Bermuda Sloop that participated in the War of 1812 on the Great Lakes (both sides).  My family went there one day and I was very interested in what I saw.  Several inaccuracies were very apparent for the sake of safety and the ability to host guests (sails 3 times a day for 1 1/2 hours) but it felt great to see an actual wooden ship in action.  At the gift shop I inquired about ship plans, hull lines, etc and was met with a blank stare.  I finally was referred to the museum historian and asked about wanting to make a model of the ship.  Apparently I was the first to ask such a thing so next thing I know I had full access to the build plans and unfettered access to the ship master.
 
Things to make you go hmmmm:
1.   The rigging in its short life has been drastically altered since delivery.  There was no accurate documentation of the current rigging setup other than in the ship master's head.
2.  The hull (especially underwater) only very crudely resembled a Bermuda Sloop.
3.  How to represent the topside deck - as built or more like it would have been.
 
The work before me was large, but I looked forward to the challenge.  Join me on a journey from drafting model plans to construction (using the Harold Hahn method).  -Mark
 
 

Understand what you are saying, I think we have all been there.  A note of caution:  continually re-doing items does not a finished project make.
 
You have to decide what is good enough.  Your skills will improve and by the time you are coming close to being done you will look at the early stages and probably see how you could do much better.  It was hard for me but I force myself to keep moving forward (most of the times).  I call my finished ships the evolution of Krug.  I can definitely pick the order but few others can.
 
Looking great and my compliments on overcoming adversary.  Keep the pics coming!
 
Mark

This post is describing how I am designing the 1812 period frames.  I have opted for 3/16" frames with 1/4" frame spacing (9" frames, 12" spacing actual).  This was built as a commercial vessel and no specific information remains on her so I am free to choose.
 
The issue is the hull as built now is an unsinkable Molly Brown, built to Coast Guard specs for carrying passengers.  If you squint hard you can sort of think of a Bermuda Sloop.  My intent is to produce a model that is more period but still retains the known views on deck and above.
 
1.  I first took the deck outline and laid down the frames and spacing as identified.  My anchor point was the slight step rise between the main deck and the aft deck.  I put this as a frame then went forward and aft from this.  This resulted in 25 full frames identified.

2.  Then I defined these frames onto the ship as built currently.  This allowed me to identify the associated frames (thin laminates) that were associated to each of my frames.

3.  I then drew the updated profile view spacing the 11 drawn Chapman frame slices at similar locations.  I also added a three part identified for each frame:  My frame #, the original plan equivalent, the Chapman frame line equivalent.
 

4.  I scanned in the Chapman lines and duplicated them to allow full forward and aft frame lines.

5.  On the actual frame views, I drew in a centerline and the newly defined waterline for my boat at that location.

6.  On my drafting table I drew crosshairs to align the centerline and waterline of each frame.  I put the existing frame drawing under the velum and copied only the lines above the waterline.

7.  I then defined the bottom of the frame measuring from my profile view.  I then slid in the Chapman Bermuda Sloop lines that I had scaled to as close as possible to the targeted size.  I was happy to find a relatively close match at the waterline for intersecting.  I traced in the resulting lines below the waterline to the keel.

8.  When I pull away the Chapman lines I am left with a pretty good shell of the frame at that station.

9.  I then added the building board location (Hahn style build), frame extensions, keel, etc.  It didn't take too long to make 7 of the 11 targeted frames.

My intent is to make bulkheads of these 11 frames using 3/16" basswood and use them to verify all is well.  Eventually full frames using 3/32" wood will be created for the final framing.  I believe this will result in a true Bermuda Sloop shaped hull of the period that will allow the deck as currently exists to be also created. 
 
I am open to suggestions for improvement but will hold the final say on implementation LOL.
Cheers, Mark
 

Well, it has been awhile but the wood always waits.  Good to see a lot of familiar names (and faces!).
 
Summary:  I am working to build a 1:48 scale model of the 'Friends Good Will' by access to replica build plans and lots of one on one discussions with the ship master.

 
The Michigan Maritime Museum sails a recreation of the 'Friends Good Will' - a Bermuda Sloop that participated in the War of 1812 on the Great Lakes (both sides).  My family went there one day and I was very interested in what I saw.  Several inaccuracies were very apparent for the sake of safety and the ability to host guests (sails 3 times a day for 1 1/2 hours) but it felt great to see an actual wooden ship in action.  At the gift shop I inquired about ship plans, hull lines, etc and was met with a blank stare.  I finally was referred to the museum historian and asked about wanting to make a model of the ship.  Apparently I was the first to ask such a thing so next thing I know I had full access to the build plans and unfettered access to the ship master.
 
Things to make you go hmmmm:
1.   The rigging in its short life has been drastically altered since delivery.  There was no accurate documentation of the current rigging setup other than in the ship master's head.
2.  The hull (especially underwater) only very crudely resembled a Bermuda Sloop.
3.  How to represent the topside deck - as built or more like it would have been.
 
The work before me was large, but I looked forward to the challenge.  Join me on a journey from drafting model plans to construction (using the Harold Hahn method).  -Mark
 
 

Ah... I was looking at the drawings you showed and wasn't sure if the frame was perpendicular to the keel or the waterline since it seems they did them both ways.
 
Glad you got it sorted out.  

This evening drafted my Frankenstein frames for a second time.  It didn't take long and the first time drawing them refreshed my memory on a lot of things to think about and incorporate - not wasted time.
 


 
Next goal is to get them affixed to 3/16" basswood and cut them out for the trial half hull.  I got the wood for the baseboard so that will be done in concert.  I believe they will be very close.
 
That's it.  Need to clean the area up and think about tomorrow.  Cheers, Mark
 

Alright, talking a bit with myself but trying to get myself 'centered' on a solution.
 
I happened to pull out Hahn's plans for the Hannah (fishing schooner).  Besides the fact that it has two masts, the hull length is consistent with the Friends Good Will (60 feetish).  Looking at the profile pic it is evident that the the keel sinks ~4' over the length of the vessel given it that Bermuda Sloop look.  When I look at the frame-up, it is also plain that the frames are perpendicular to the keel (and not the waterline).  The visible bulkhead separating the main 3' higher aft deck is at an angle (as are all the frames) when resting on the water.
 
I went back to Chapman and the Bermuda Sloop plan.  The frame station lines as drawn are not perpendicular to the keel, but actually also are not totally perpendicular to the defined waterline (but are closer).  They seem to split the difference.  Things that make you go hmmm.  It is why I love building from scratch HaHa.
 
My currently drawn frame lines are done perpendicular to the water line.  My thought is to continue in this vein.  Again, it was a commercial vessel with no currently existing documentation so there is no specifically wrong selection among the choices.  The boat in South Haven also has a bulkhead from main to aft deck that is perpendicular to the waterline so this will jive.  I guess my decision is made.
 
Perfect.  Decision 32 done of 4,358 (estimated) total.  BTW:  Asked the spouse about this and she gave me a funny look.
 
Cheers  -Mark

This evening drafted my Frankenstein frames for a second time.  It didn't take long and the first time drawing them refreshed my memory on a lot of things to think about and incorporate - not wasted time.
 


 
Next goal is to get them affixed to 3/16" basswood and cut them out for the trial half hull.  I got the wood for the baseboard so that will be done in concert.  I believe they will be very close.
 
That's it.  Need to clean the area up and think about tomorrow.  Cheers, Mark
 

This evening drafted my Frankenstein frames for a second time.  It didn't take long and the first time drawing them refreshed my memory on a lot of things to think about and incorporate - not wasted time.
 


 
Next goal is to get them affixed to 3/16" basswood and cut them out for the trial half hull.  I got the wood for the baseboard so that will be done in concert.  I believe they will be very close.
 
That's it.  Need to clean the area up and think about tomorrow.  Cheers, Mark
 

On thinking of it - this is a better graphic of my intention:  The frames having insets into the keel