kruginmi

On to the next step of actually building a full hull (though POB).  I need to use the frames on the 1/2 hull as templates for the full hull.  However, they only show half a frame.  Can't flip them over because they are beveled.  You could do a bunch of drawing and meticulous duplication or.......make templates.  Templates make sense for a number of reasons - need an accurate portrayal of what was built, need to transfer to plans, need to transfer to at least one build, need to remake bulkheads that are screwed up (highly likely).  So I took some 1/32" basswood and traced both the forward and aft of each frame onto it.  Then I cut close to the line.  To finish, I affixed to the frame itself and sanded to shape.  For the purists, yes, this introduces a 'small' inaccuracy, however it is well within the tolerances I find acceptable.


The reason the deck side was not beveled was to allow these two templates to be aligned exactly in the ‘y’ direction.  When you overlay these two templates the bevel introduced is readily seen:

This gives you a great indication of what will be required sanding wise.  Each frame will be handled this way, then the biggest template for each frame can be used on both sides of a centerline to truly mirror image the frame.  The power of my 1/2 hull construction can be seen in its deconstruction:

Using the designed bulkhead spine I have also rubber cemented the requirements onto the 1/8" board:

It will take a little time to get all these templates knocked out but using 1/32" basswood is pretty fast.  Hoping in the next day or two to start getting some full bulkheads cut out and slotted.    -Mark
 

All basswood Eamonn.  Wood frowned upon by many people for this hobby but it can be found (milled) in a few stores around here (in normal times).  Knowing its strengths (and weaknesses) can lead to successful use.  I pick up a piece here and there to spread out the cost over time, only way I could do this hobby.  Druid is 96% basswood.
 
I do have a limited supply of boxwood for the more detailed carving pieces (trim, figures, etc).
 
It is nice to be able to run out if you are short a piece or two I agree. 
Mark

Realizing you have no idea what is in the basswood stash. So pulled out the big pieces and organized. 
this does not include the containers of smaller pieces. 
 

Next step is to capture all the deltas in a new profile drawing (to include false deck and planking).  It is important that all the prototype measurements align with this capture (as much as possible - there is a deck slope port and starboard).  Once satisfied, I will start capturing the bulkhead profiles.  These will include fore and aft profiles per (capturing bevel amounts).

This will be the master to create the exploded component view - keel, fore&aft bulkhead, and eventually slot depths.
Whoops - Forgot to add the false keel.  Probably raise the height of the aft stem more into the hull (specific name escapes me at the moment).

Well, it has been a long time coming, but I think I have the outer hull dimensions complete with good tracings to use.  Now to forge ahead and start getting these full bulkheads cut out.  Also, on the off time, make up a good set of plans for the future.

Well, it has been a long time coming, but I think I have the outer hull dimensions complete with good tracings to use.  Now to forge ahead and start getting these full bulkheads cut out.  Also, on the off time, make up a good set of plans for the future.

Thanks Mark (Oregon Mark) .. I think I'll do that .. Will just plant that Acorn .. You Know.. Just In Case    
Can't even easily pick up a nice display board over here (Ireland) without getting completely specialised (having to have a saw mill in the back shed) and/or costing a fair chunk of the National Debt    But I guess it's a case of the grass always looks greener .. etc   Oh Well !
 
It's weird to think that most of our native hardwood forests etc went to build the Navy vessels a lot of us model on here   and at that quiet a lot literally went past my front door (I live very near Arklow's once thriving local harbour)
 
All The Very Best & Please Stay Safe and Well
 
Eamonn
 
PS Those Templates are looking Well Mark (Michigan Mark)

Even here in the States, woods other than basswood (lime) and bulsa have be special ordered.  Go to the Wood Discussion area.   I believe there are some exotic wood places in the UK or at least accessible online for you to use.   And some woods are just getting impossible to find.

On to the next step of actually building a full hull (though POB).  I need to use the frames on the 1/2 hull as templates for the full hull.  However, they only show half a frame.  Can't flip them over because they are beveled.  You could do a bunch of drawing and meticulous duplication or.......make templates.  Templates make sense for a number of reasons - need an accurate portrayal of what was built, need to transfer to plans, need to transfer to at least one build, need to remake bulkheads that are screwed up (highly likely).  So I took some 1/32" basswood and traced both the forward and aft of each frame onto it.  Then I cut close to the line.  To finish, I affixed to the frame itself and sanded to shape.  For the purists, yes, this introduces a 'small' inaccuracy, however it is well within the tolerances I find acceptable.


The reason the deck side was not beveled was to allow these two templates to be aligned exactly in the ‘y’ direction.  When you overlay these two templates the bevel introduced is readily seen:

This gives you a great indication of what will be required sanding wise.  Each frame will be handled this way, then the biggest template for each frame can be used on both sides of a centerline to truly mirror image the frame.  The power of my 1/2 hull construction can be seen in its deconstruction:

Using the designed bulkhead spine I have also rubber cemented the requirements onto the 1/8" board:

It will take a little time to get all these templates knocked out but using 1/32" basswood is pretty fast.  Hoping in the next day or two to start getting some full bulkheads cut out and slotted.    -Mark
 

All basswood Eamonn.  Wood frowned upon by many people for this hobby but it can be found (milled) in a few stores around here (in normal times).  Knowing its strengths (and weaknesses) can lead to successful use.  I pick up a piece here and there to spread out the cost over time, only way I could do this hobby.  Druid is 96% basswood.
 
I do have a limited supply of boxwood for the more detailed carving pieces (trim, figures, etc).
 
It is nice to be able to run out if you are short a piece or two I agree. 
Mark

On to the next step of actually building a full hull (though POB).  I need to use the frames on the 1/2 hull as templates for the full hull.  However, they only show half a frame.  Can't flip them over because they are beveled.  You could do a bunch of drawing and meticulous duplication or.......make templates.  Templates make sense for a number of reasons - need an accurate portrayal of what was built, need to transfer to plans, need to transfer to at least one build, need to remake bulkheads that are screwed up (highly likely).  So I took some 1/32" basswood and traced both the forward and aft of each frame onto it.  Then I cut close to the line.  To finish, I affixed to the frame itself and sanded to shape.  For the purists, yes, this introduces a 'small' inaccuracy, however it is well within the tolerances I find acceptable.


The reason the deck side was not beveled was to allow these two templates to be aligned exactly in the ‘y’ direction.  When you overlay these two templates the bevel introduced is readily seen:

This gives you a great indication of what will be required sanding wise.  Each frame will be handled this way, then the biggest template for each frame can be used on both sides of a centerline to truly mirror image the frame.  The power of my 1/2 hull construction can be seen in its deconstruction:

Using the designed bulkhead spine I have also rubber cemented the requirements onto the 1/8" board:

It will take a little time to get all these templates knocked out but using 1/32" basswood is pretty fast.  Hoping in the next day or two to start getting some full bulkheads cut out and slotted.    -Mark
 

On to the next step of actually building a full hull (though POB).  I need to use the frames on the 1/2 hull as templates for the full hull.  However, they only show half a frame.  Can't flip them over because they are beveled.  You could do a bunch of drawing and meticulous duplication or.......make templates.  Templates make sense for a number of reasons - need an accurate portrayal of what was built, need to transfer to plans, need to transfer to at least one build, need to remake bulkheads that are screwed up (highly likely).  So I took some 1/32" basswood and traced both the forward and aft of each frame onto it.  Then I cut close to the line.  To finish, I affixed to the frame itself and sanded to shape.  For the purists, yes, this introduces a 'small' inaccuracy, however it is well within the tolerances I find acceptable.


The reason the deck side was not beveled was to allow these two templates to be aligned exactly in the ‘y’ direction.  When you overlay these two templates the bevel introduced is readily seen:

This gives you a great indication of what will be required sanding wise.  Each frame will be handled this way, then the biggest template for each frame can be used on both sides of a centerline to truly mirror image the frame.  The power of my 1/2 hull construction can be seen in its deconstruction:

Using the designed bulkhead spine I have also rubber cemented the requirements onto the 1/8" board:

It will take a little time to get all these templates knocked out but using 1/32" basswood is pretty fast.  Hoping in the next day or two to start getting some full bulkheads cut out and slotted.    -Mark
 

On to the next step of actually building a full hull (though POB).  I need to use the frames on the 1/2 hull as templates for the full hull.  However, they only show half a frame.  Can't flip them over because they are beveled.  You could do a bunch of drawing and meticulous duplication or.......make templates.  Templates make sense for a number of reasons - need an accurate portrayal of what was built, need to transfer to plans, need to transfer to at least one build, need to remake bulkheads that are screwed up (highly likely).  So I took some 1/32" basswood and traced both the forward and aft of each frame onto it.  Then I cut close to the line.  To finish, I affixed to the frame itself and sanded to shape.  For the purists, yes, this introduces a 'small' inaccuracy, however it is well within the tolerances I find acceptable.


The reason the deck side was not beveled was to allow these two templates to be aligned exactly in the ‘y’ direction.  When you overlay these two templates the bevel introduced is readily seen:

This gives you a great indication of what will be required sanding wise.  Each frame will be handled this way, then the biggest template for each frame can be used on both sides of a centerline to truly mirror image the frame.  The power of my 1/2 hull construction can be seen in its deconstruction:

Using the designed bulkhead spine I have also rubber cemented the requirements onto the 1/8" board:

It will take a little time to get all these templates knocked out but using 1/32" basswood is pretty fast.  Hoping in the next day or two to start getting some full bulkheads cut out and slotted.    -Mark
 

All basswood Eamonn.  Wood frowned upon by many people for this hobby but it can be found (milled) in a few stores around here (in normal times).  Knowing its strengths (and weaknesses) can lead to successful use.  I pick up a piece here and there to spread out the cost over time, only way I could do this hobby.  Druid is 96% basswood.
 
I do have a limited supply of boxwood for the more detailed carving pieces (trim, figures, etc).
 
It is nice to be able to run out if you are short a piece or two I agree. 
Mark

All basswood Eamonn.  Wood frowned upon by many people for this hobby but it can be found (milled) in a few stores around here (in normal times).  Knowing its strengths (and weaknesses) can lead to successful use.  I pick up a piece here and there to spread out the cost over time, only way I could do this hobby.  Druid is 96% basswood.
 
I do have a limited supply of boxwood for the more detailed carving pieces (trim, figures, etc).
 
It is nice to be able to run out if you are short a piece or two I agree. 
Mark

Hey Mark.. Ye USA Folks are so lucky, do you have any idea how difficult it is for us lot on this side of the pond to get specific Timber, always sounds like 'I'll just nip down to the Corner Shop and pick up some Holly Strips and maybe grab a coffee.. us lot over here literally have to go to our nearest Garden Centre and pick up some Holly Seeds, then wait a few decades .. Explains why my Ballier is taking sooo long lol     
 
Not Even A Bit Envious Of Your Stash   
 
Now where did I put that Acorn ... ... .. .
 
Eamonn

Realizing you have no idea what is in the basswood stash. So pulled out the big pieces and organized. 
this does not include the containers of smaller pieces. 
 

Realizing you have no idea what is in the basswood stash. So pulled out the big pieces and organized. 
this does not include the containers of smaller pieces. 
 

Interesting question I had was how to draw this profile.  I basically considered it a slice right through the middle of the boat.  However, a side effect of this (with the deck camber) is that the railings shown should be reduced in height by about a planks height.  If you look at the top of the quarterdeck you can see the delineation of the planking, then the false deck, then the underlying fore and aft bulkhead.  By lowering the railings it would look like the railings are not on the same level with the quarterdeck which would be in error.  Interesting.  An option would be to omit the railing entirely but that might lead you to think the main deck was just like the quarterdeck (just flush).
 
Just as the top down view shows a width to the widest point, which depending on the tumblehome, can be in a variety of locations.
 
Drawing a set of plans for the first time has been very enlightening and I have a greater respect for the process.  I think this reliance on just one view sometimes led to the issues I identified (and fixed) with the prototype.
 
To jump start the bearding line I drew the main keel a plank's width below the lowest part of the bulkheads.  The primary bulkhead will be an 1/8" while the keel will be 1/4" thick.  My thought is that this will make planking cleaner.  In fact, all planking can be done prior to the affixing of the keel itself (remember POB).
 
Question:  Should I keep it like this or move the thickness of the keel up to the bulkheads to allow the bulkhead to have the bearding line custom cut?

Next step is to capture all the deltas in a new profile drawing (to include false deck and planking).  It is important that all the prototype measurements align with this capture (as much as possible - there is a deck slope port and starboard).  Once satisfied, I will start capturing the bulkhead profiles.  These will include fore and aft profiles per (capturing bevel amounts).

This will be the master to create the exploded component view - keel, fore&aft bulkhead, and eventually slot depths.
Whoops - Forgot to add the false keel.  Probably raise the height of the aft stem more into the hull (specific name escapes me at the moment).

Next step is to capture all the deltas in a new profile drawing (to include false deck and planking).  It is important that all the prototype measurements align with this capture (as much as possible - there is a deck slope port and starboard).  Once satisfied, I will start capturing the bulkhead profiles.  These will include fore and aft profiles per (capturing bevel amounts).

This will be the master to create the exploded component view - keel, fore&aft bulkhead, and eventually slot depths.
Whoops - Forgot to add the false keel.  Probably raise the height of the aft stem more into the hull (specific name escapes me at the moment).

Oh boy, big changes coming (I blame Druxey LOL).
 
Cleaning up the work area today and decided to do some comparing against Harold Hahn's Hannah plans.  From an above view pretty happy the comparison is pretty close and there is close alignment (frame width and spacing the same, etc).

The same can also be true from the side view:

The deck profile is almost scary on how close it is (I aligned at the keel).  The difference in the slope of the frames is readily apparent.  What I didn't think was that for the distance of the step up to the quarterdeck and for the railing posts, the difference really isn't that much.  The keel depth will be re-verified but is much deeper on the Chapman plans.
 
So.......I am going to redo the ship to have frames vertical to the keel.  This isn't as bad as it sounds.  I will redraw the profile and figure out the point for the bulkheads to pivot at (deck, waterline or keel).  I will then figure out how to mount to board so the bulkheads are still perpendicular to the slot cut in the board.  The existing bulkheads will be modified as necessary (shouldn't be much) to conform to the new design.  At the bow may need to recut one or two but time will tell. 
 
Sometimes you just have to do what you have to do LOL.  (again, thanks Druxey).  It will be a better model in the end.
Mark
 

Next step is to capture all the deltas in a new profile drawing (to include false deck and planking).  It is important that all the prototype measurements align with this capture (as much as possible - there is a deck slope port and starboard).  Once satisfied, I will start capturing the bulkhead profiles.  These will include fore and aft profiles per (capturing bevel amounts).

This will be the master to create the exploded component view - keel, fore&aft bulkhead, and eventually slot depths.
Whoops - Forgot to add the false keel.  Probably raise the height of the aft stem more into the hull (specific name escapes me at the moment).

I feel like I am posting the same pics over and over again but there are HOURS of work in between.  This series is called 'Almost There' haha.  I am thinking another solid day and this just may be.
 
Did some sculpting of the stern (again) but pretty complete.  I still need to add a block below the wing transom to allow shaping of the stern and better attachment for planking.  The bow is pretty set, with the exception of the bow block (same purpose) and a few other minor details.  I (of course) got messed up with the railing height (my template meant for above the false deck, started to apply without it so......some 'repairs' are required.  Final shaping of the bulkhead bevels are soon to come.

This process has been very educational (and frustrating) but getting back into the groove needed some re-education.  I am looking forward to the next step of a good set of drawn plans and then a full POB build to validate.
 
Stay Building My Friends,  Mark

Alright, think I am at the end of the road for this prototype.  All outer bulkhead bevels added and the blocks shaped fore and aft.  I am not beveling the deck portion on this build.  I did have to add a 1/16" skin to a section of one bulkhead but other than that, everything worked out.

The blocks I kept putting off thinking they will require lots of carving, sanding and other.  In my mind they had grown into 1" by 3" by 5" monsters.  The truth very different.  Pretty straightforward.


I might add some dowels through the keel to keep it in place.   -Mark