kruginmi

To use a phrase from Monty Python:  'Not dead yet.'  Slow but sure the new frames have been generated.  Everything triple checked and locked in.  This morning I glued the framework to the base jig (excepting first and last frames) and everything is in its proper place:
 

 
I need to add the walnut chocks to the 18th and 27th frames prior to gluing those in and then fair the hull.  The hull is already so close to being smooth, which is how it should be.  Shouldn't take too much effort.
 
I did add removable spacer blocks (in the pics) at the mid-points either side and will probably not add spacer blocks.  Once the mid-section is good to go I will add the wales for strength.
 
One other difference from previous attempts was to get all the frames in place insuring everything measured out correctly before gluing anything.  I only added glue once in place and pushed it around where the frame and the bottom jig intersected.  No chance of it grabbing prior to being in its final place.
 
Mark

To use a phrase from Monty Python:  'Not dead yet.'  Slow but sure the new frames have been generated.  Everything triple checked and locked in.  This morning I glued the framework to the base jig (excepting first and last frames) and everything is in its proper place:
 

 
I need to add the walnut chocks to the 18th and 27th frames prior to gluing those in and then fair the hull.  The hull is already so close to being smooth, which is how it should be.  Shouldn't take too much effort.
 
I did add removable spacer blocks (in the pics) at the mid-points either side and will probably not add spacer blocks.  Once the mid-section is good to go I will add the wales for strength.
 
One other difference from previous attempts was to get all the frames in place insuring everything measured out correctly before gluing anything.  I only added glue once in place and pushed it around where the frame and the bottom jig intersected.  No chance of it grabbing prior to being in its final place.
 
Mark

Great to see you catching up to where you were Mark.. looks a treat !
 
Eamonn

To use a phrase from Monty Python:  'Not dead yet.'  Slow but sure the new frames have been generated.  Everything triple checked and locked in.  This morning I glued the framework to the base jig (excepting first and last frames) and everything is in its proper place:
 

 
I need to add the walnut chocks to the 18th and 27th frames prior to gluing those in and then fair the hull.  The hull is already so close to being smooth, which is how it should be.  Shouldn't take too much effort.
 
I did add removable spacer blocks (in the pics) at the mid-points either side and will probably not add spacer blocks.  Once the mid-section is good to go I will add the wales for strength.
 
One other difference from previous attempts was to get all the frames in place insuring everything measured out correctly before gluing anything.  I only added glue once in place and pushed it around where the frame and the bottom jig intersected.  No chance of it grabbing prior to being in its final place.
 
Mark

To use a phrase from Monty Python:  'Not dead yet.'  Slow but sure the new frames have been generated.  Everything triple checked and locked in.  This morning I glued the framework to the base jig (excepting first and last frames) and everything is in its proper place:
 

 
I need to add the walnut chocks to the 18th and 27th frames prior to gluing those in and then fair the hull.  The hull is already so close to being smooth, which is how it should be.  Shouldn't take too much effort.
 
I did add removable spacer blocks (in the pics) at the mid-points either side and will probably not add spacer blocks.  Once the mid-section is good to go I will add the wales for strength.
 
One other difference from previous attempts was to get all the frames in place insuring everything measured out correctly before gluing anything.  I only added glue once in place and pushed it around where the frame and the bottom jig intersected.  No chance of it grabbing prior to being in its final place.
 
Mark

To use a phrase from Monty Python:  'Not dead yet.'  Slow but sure the new frames have been generated.  Everything triple checked and locked in.  This morning I glued the framework to the base jig (excepting first and last frames) and everything is in its proper place:
 

 
I need to add the walnut chocks to the 18th and 27th frames prior to gluing those in and then fair the hull.  The hull is already so close to being smooth, which is how it should be.  Shouldn't take too much effort.
 
I did add removable spacer blocks (in the pics) at the mid-points either side and will probably not add spacer blocks.  Once the mid-section is good to go I will add the wales for strength.
 
One other difference from previous attempts was to get all the frames in place insuring everything measured out correctly before gluing anything.  I only added glue once in place and pushed it around where the frame and the bottom jig intersected.  No chance of it grabbing prior to being in its final place.
 
Mark

All right, I guess when you wake up in the middle of the night with a question in your mind specific to chocks, you are probably not on an even keel (pun intended).  However, the question raised in my mind did end up raising others.
 
I am doing a lot of studying of the TFFM HMN Swan Class Sloops books and for those that have them (for this discussion volume 1) I will include references.  For others I apologize but don't want to include copies of the contents.
 
My discussion centers around this diagram:

 
At the top you can see the way I originally made the portion of frame 18 which straddles the keel, which is composed of two sides laminated together (split apart here).  In the rework and elimination of one of the joins (see page 190 TFFM V1) this has caused the the piece going across the centerline to collapse into a much smaller length (denoted as the B piece).  The other side was simply cut across the centerline straight down and had a chock added for strength.  This is the issue - it didn't seem right to put two chocks against each other which would happen if I added them the same way to the B piece (which would then overlap the A piece chock).
 
The view of Page 190 seemed to show a chock at the centerline as I originally created them but the companion side seemed in question.  I found on page 156 a good view of the bottom connection superimposed which leads me to believe that the bottom joins do not have chocks at all.  I have redrawn this view below the others.  I am thinking that the line denoted by 'V' has been left off the view on page 190.  This is backed up on page 140 of the actual pics of construction Mr. Antscherl provides of his Tisiphone class ship and the build up of a frame pair.
 
Having drawn this out it is also revealed that the second futtock B will require around 17 square feet with a good curve to it.  This is a natural occurrence of going from 7 futtock pieces for this frame to just 5.  Being a cargo ship this has a much fuller body than the TFFM plans shown amidships.
 
I am thinking I might need to add an additional futtock (and thus another set of thickstuff) back in to each side to cut down the 17 feet.  I will go back to the original 4 in the hold each side.
 
I am also thinking of eliminating the chock at the centerline and going for that more complicated join.  Again, good news is that I will really only have to do this join on the extreme aft and extreme forward frames since all else will be covered up.
 
Thoughts?
Mark

Onto a fresh start.
 
First thing was to confirm(!) the photocopies that I had produced.  
 
First I compared the copy with the original:

 
Then I flipped the copy over to very the mirror image across the center line:

 
Finally I compared the frame copy to the previous/next frame:

 
Using the light box this was pretty straightforward and showed within a small margin everything was consistent.  So I am good.  Well almost....
 
I need to figure out where the futtock joins should occur to give me the right lay of the thickstuff within the hull.  I started with frame 18 and with the centerline defined the berth and gun decks.  Then I defined the two sets of joins (denoted as A and B on the following pic).  I wanted one to be defined midway between the berth and gun deck, one for the limber strake, one just below the berth deck and the last to fall in between the previous denoted joins.

 
The same was done on frame pattern 27.  After defining the joins all the heights were transferred to the centerline:

 
Transferring this measurements to the side view on their respective frames and I connected the dots to define the correct heights for all the rest of the frames.  The joins are denoted by a circle through the line:

 
I have never really seen this technique required but definitely should provide a good consistent set of joins.  The middle join really shows a rise on the profile but defines a midway location at each point.
 
Comments are always welcomed (especially prior to cutting wood once again!).  Is there anything else I need to think about?
 
Mark

Final push to get the lower hold planks in place - the 1/16" basswood ones.  I couldn't leave it so close to getting buttoned up so I spent most of the day going back and forth.  The old:  cut, glue and clamp two planks (one each side), wait to dry, remove and do the next two.  Pretty straight forward stuff.  I opted to only use planks that traversed the whole cross section.  There will be so much stuff down here (eventually) I didn't think anyone would be able to notice any different later.
 
So yet another couple of shots showing the hold:
 

 
No smooth surface going up the walls here.  I realize it would be pretty easy to climb up the walls without any further assist.  Still some tidying up to do here and there.
 

 
Making that mast footing is going to take some time, but that is for another day.  Probably need to make some berth deck beams, if not orlop ones to start figuring out bulkheads and the well.  The cross section definitely feels pretty solid now!
 
Mark
 
 

Thanks for all the likes and looks.
 
While the wind howls outside and the temp reads below zero I set my sights on getting the middle stuff (my term) set in the lower hold.  This is 3/32" basswood strips primarily on either side of the thickstuff (1/8" basswood).  Finally I can call it good.
 

 
Next up is the regular planking (1/16" basswood).  It shouldn't take too long.
 
When I started this process of the internal planking I thought the big question was going to be whether to plank up from the keelson or down from the berth deck clamp.  The reality was a bunch of jumping around to set the thickstuff and now I am left with the filler.  A lot more respect for trying to accurately plank the internal hull of a complete hull, regardless of scale!
 
Mark

Another update in the evolution of the Druid-X, this time focusing on the garboard and limber strakes.  
 
For the limber strakes I am still using the thickstuff stock (1/8").  These require a slot to allow the limber boards to fit in between this and the keelson.  Using the Byrnes saw I quickly had my raw stock.
 

 
Using a spacer piece of wood to insure consistent separation from the keelson I glued in both limber strakes.
 

 
Everything ended up looking fit and proper.  A good result.
 
As a companion it was time to put on the first regular planks on the hull (1/16").  The natural choice was the garboard strake - and in fact I did one better, the garboard strake plus one each side.  These were again cut rectangular with no specific shaping.  The rest of the planking will be custom fit and cut.
 

 
The ends of the planks aren't perfectly flush with the aft and fore frames.  I am resisting the urge to sand them into all the outside and inside planks are attached to avoid screwing up the face of the frames - as much.
 
Next up is the middle stuff (my term - hah hah).  Some 3/32" stuff that abuts a lot of the thickstuff prior to the regular planking.  I also want to get the berth deck clamp in.  It wont be too long before the lower hold is sealed in.
 
Mark

As the planning starts, so does the log.  With my admiralty hull finally back home after a month road trip around town I am more convinced than ever that a cross section is needed.  With a variety of questions being consistently asked about the layout of the internals and how did this or that happen, the cross section would be perfect.
 

 
Being a cross section it will fit on the mantle but also bring home the resultant size of the full ship with the full main mast being present.
 
The first question is where to define the cut lines.  After looking at the plans I am looking at the following layout (frames 18-27):
 

 
Being a Hahn plan, there are no knees defined (not seen at all in the full model).  In this case they will be seen so I will add those in.  I am a little lucky in that this is an American built cargo ship purchased and converted by the British.  So......I do not necessarily have to follow exact British standards of the time.  I am pretty sure I will put in at least one futtock rider.
 
I am thinking of fully planking the outer hull inside and out both sides, but then one half of the inner hull decks will be left with all floor beams exposed.  The fully deck planked side will be fit out with ballast, water and food casks, cannon (kids happy about that) with associated tools and probably a hammock or two.
 
The rigging will be that which is possible.  I am thinking about having sails (lower one furled).  I have picked up the masting plans for the Brilliant / Druid in the possession of the Smithsonian.  That is a big help.  Lots of scratching of the head on tie down positions with the added quarterdeck extension.
 
Now to start on the frames.  I will not use the short cut frames jig provided but will go with more of wood saving futtock by futtock method (modified) - still using the inverted building stand / jig.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

All right, I guess when you wake up in the middle of the night with a question in your mind specific to chocks, you are probably not on an even keel (pun intended).  However, the question raised in my mind did end up raising others.
 
I am doing a lot of studying of the TFFM HMN Swan Class Sloops books and for those that have them (for this discussion volume 1) I will include references.  For others I apologize but don't want to include copies of the contents.
 
My discussion centers around this diagram:

 
At the top you can see the way I originally made the portion of frame 18 which straddles the keel, which is composed of two sides laminated together (split apart here).  In the rework and elimination of one of the joins (see page 190 TFFM V1) this has caused the the piece going across the centerline to collapse into a much smaller length (denoted as the B piece).  The other side was simply cut across the centerline straight down and had a chock added for strength.  This is the issue - it didn't seem right to put two chocks against each other which would happen if I added them the same way to the B piece (which would then overlap the A piece chock).
 
The view of Page 190 seemed to show a chock at the centerline as I originally created them but the companion side seemed in question.  I found on page 156 a good view of the bottom connection superimposed which leads me to believe that the bottom joins do not have chocks at all.  I have redrawn this view below the others.  I am thinking that the line denoted by 'V' has been left off the view on page 190.  This is backed up on page 140 of the actual pics of construction Mr. Antscherl provides of his Tisiphone class ship and the build up of a frame pair.
 
Having drawn this out it is also revealed that the second futtock B will require around 17 square feet with a good curve to it.  This is a natural occurrence of going from 7 futtock pieces for this frame to just 5.  Being a cargo ship this has a much fuller body than the TFFM plans shown amidships.
 
I am thinking I might need to add an additional futtock (and thus another set of thickstuff) back in to each side to cut down the 17 feet.  I will go back to the original 4 in the hold each side.
 
I am also thinking of eliminating the chock at the centerline and going for that more complicated join.  Again, good news is that I will really only have to do this join on the extreme aft and extreme forward frames since all else will be covered up.
 
Thoughts?
Mark

All right, I guess when you wake up in the middle of the night with a question in your mind specific to chocks, you are probably not on an even keel (pun intended).  However, the question raised in my mind did end up raising others.
 
I am doing a lot of studying of the TFFM HMN Swan Class Sloops books and for those that have them (for this discussion volume 1) I will include references.  For others I apologize but don't want to include copies of the contents.
 
My discussion centers around this diagram:

 
At the top you can see the way I originally made the portion of frame 18 which straddles the keel, which is composed of two sides laminated together (split apart here).  In the rework and elimination of one of the joins (see page 190 TFFM V1) this has caused the the piece going across the centerline to collapse into a much smaller length (denoted as the B piece).  The other side was simply cut across the centerline straight down and had a chock added for strength.  This is the issue - it didn't seem right to put two chocks against each other which would happen if I added them the same way to the B piece (which would then overlap the A piece chock).
 
The view of Page 190 seemed to show a chock at the centerline as I originally created them but the companion side seemed in question.  I found on page 156 a good view of the bottom connection superimposed which leads me to believe that the bottom joins do not have chocks at all.  I have redrawn this view below the others.  I am thinking that the line denoted by 'V' has been left off the view on page 190.  This is backed up on page 140 of the actual pics of construction Mr. Antscherl provides of his Tisiphone class ship and the build up of a frame pair.
 
Having drawn this out it is also revealed that the second futtock B will require around 17 square feet with a good curve to it.  This is a natural occurrence of going from 7 futtock pieces for this frame to just 5.  Being a cargo ship this has a much fuller body than the TFFM plans shown amidships.
 
I am thinking I might need to add an additional futtock (and thus another set of thickstuff) back in to each side to cut down the 17 feet.  I will go back to the original 4 in the hold each side.
 
I am also thinking of eliminating the chock at the centerline and going for that more complicated join.  Again, good news is that I will really only have to do this join on the extreme aft and extreme forward frames since all else will be covered up.
 
Thoughts?
Mark

Onto a fresh start.
 
First thing was to confirm(!) the photocopies that I had produced.  
 
First I compared the copy with the original:

 
Then I flipped the copy over to very the mirror image across the center line:

 
Finally I compared the frame copy to the previous/next frame:

 
Using the light box this was pretty straightforward and showed within a small margin everything was consistent.  So I am good.  Well almost....
 
I need to figure out where the futtock joins should occur to give me the right lay of the thickstuff within the hull.  I started with frame 18 and with the centerline defined the berth and gun decks.  Then I defined the two sets of joins (denoted as A and B on the following pic).  I wanted one to be defined midway between the berth and gun deck, one for the limber strake, one just below the berth deck and the last to fall in between the previous denoted joins.

 
The same was done on frame pattern 27.  After defining the joins all the heights were transferred to the centerline:

 
Transferring this measurements to the side view on their respective frames and I connected the dots to define the correct heights for all the rest of the frames.  The joins are denoted by a circle through the line:

 
I have never really seen this technique required but definitely should provide a good consistent set of joins.  The middle join really shows a rise on the profile but defines a midway location at each point.
 
Comments are always welcomed (especially prior to cutting wood once again!).  Is there anything else I need to think about?
 
Mark

The task for the day was a Keel Rabbet.  The difference for me is that this rabbet is more than for looks.  I actually need a garboard strake to fit into the rabbet and given the cross section you get to view the results on two ends.
 
So....off I went.  I did drill through the keel, the frames and partway through the keelson at each frame.  Four of these holes where then drilled through the false keel.  Adding trunnels through the whole assembly made it very stiff.
 

 

 

 
I am pretty happy with the results.  Now I get to start working on stuff that will for the most part be seen!
 
mark

So what caused me to take this action?  Numerous small cuts that added up to a real bleeder!
- The frames had some real issues with aligning.  I had to make adjustments at numerous times.  With all the care I took up front this caught me by surprise.
- Being totally honest, I was seeing non-uniformity in the final widths of the frames, to include same frame and between adjoining frames.  Not much but millimeters equate to some real distance
- Even the spacers gave me fits, causing some alignment creep.
- I started to get the feeling that all my alignment fixes had given a little twist to the hull
- The final straw was I just happened to do a cross section length check and there was variation at different points.  To the eye you couldn't see this issue but the ruler betrays all.
 
Each specific issue was seemingly small and could be 'easily' fixed.  However, you always get bit when you do this and leads to other issues.  I just finally had enough.  Now, I am not going to throw this in the trash.  I am hoping my 10 year old will take it and eventually put his finishing touches on it, so for now it goes into storage.
 
Another factor was realizing the specifics of how the thickstuff aligns with the joins.  My current joins seem too close together.  I realize now you do not measure these out in isolation but look at the side plan of all the frames and figure out the sweep you are looking for.
 
As an end note though, when I really looked at the copies of the frames I used and saw how distorted they were, particularly on the port side I had found the smoking gun.  The issues I had been finding hadn't been because of my workmanship (well, other than not checking the frames).  I could do this and do it right.
 
(Note:  The Hahn drawings are right on - no issues there).
 
Mark
Plus Mark T.  I didn't have a whole ship hull invested!  That is a whole other level of backtracking.

So what caused me to take this action?  Numerous small cuts that added up to a real bleeder!
- The frames had some real issues with aligning.  I had to make adjustments at numerous times.  With all the care I took up front this caught me by surprise.
- Being totally honest, I was seeing non-uniformity in the final widths of the frames, to include same frame and between adjoining frames.  Not much but millimeters equate to some real distance
- Even the spacers gave me fits, causing some alignment creep.
- I started to get the feeling that all my alignment fixes had given a little twist to the hull
- The final straw was I just happened to do a cross section length check and there was variation at different points.  To the eye you couldn't see this issue but the ruler betrays all.
 
Each specific issue was seemingly small and could be 'easily' fixed.  However, you always get bit when you do this and leads to other issues.  I just finally had enough.  Now, I am not going to throw this in the trash.  I am hoping my 10 year old will take it and eventually put his finishing touches on it, so for now it goes into storage.
 
Another factor was realizing the specifics of how the thickstuff aligns with the joins.  My current joins seem too close together.  I realize now you do not measure these out in isolation but look at the side plan of all the frames and figure out the sweep you are looking for.
 
As an end note though, when I really looked at the copies of the frames I used and saw how distorted they were, particularly on the port side I had found the smoking gun.  The issues I had been finding hadn't been because of my workmanship (well, other than not checking the frames).  I could do this and do it right.
 
(Note:  The Hahn drawings are right on - no issues there).
 
Mark
Plus Mark T.  I didn't have a whole ship hull invested!  That is a whole other level of backtracking.

So what caused me to take this action?  Numerous small cuts that added up to a real bleeder!
- The frames had some real issues with aligning.  I had to make adjustments at numerous times.  With all the care I took up front this caught me by surprise.
- Being totally honest, I was seeing non-uniformity in the final widths of the frames, to include same frame and between adjoining frames.  Not much but millimeters equate to some real distance
- Even the spacers gave me fits, causing some alignment creep.
- I started to get the feeling that all my alignment fixes had given a little twist to the hull
- The final straw was I just happened to do a cross section length check and there was variation at different points.  To the eye you couldn't see this issue but the ruler betrays all.
 
Each specific issue was seemingly small and could be 'easily' fixed.  However, you always get bit when you do this and leads to other issues.  I just finally had enough.  Now, I am not going to throw this in the trash.  I am hoping my 10 year old will take it and eventually put his finishing touches on it, so for now it goes into storage.
 
Another factor was realizing the specifics of how the thickstuff aligns with the joins.  My current joins seem too close together.  I realize now you do not measure these out in isolation but look at the side plan of all the frames and figure out the sweep you are looking for.
 
As an end note though, when I really looked at the copies of the frames I used and saw how distorted they were, particularly on the port side I had found the smoking gun.  The issues I had been finding hadn't been because of my workmanship (well, other than not checking the frames).  I could do this and do it right.
 
(Note:  The Hahn drawings are right on - no issues there).
 
Mark
Plus Mark T.  I didn't have a whole ship hull invested!  That is a whole other level of backtracking.

Final push to get the lower hold planks in place - the 1/16" basswood ones.  I couldn't leave it so close to getting buttoned up so I spent most of the day going back and forth.  The old:  cut, glue and clamp two planks (one each side), wait to dry, remove and do the next two.  Pretty straight forward stuff.  I opted to only use planks that traversed the whole cross section.  There will be so much stuff down here (eventually) I didn't think anyone would be able to notice any different later.
 
So yet another couple of shots showing the hold:
 

 
No smooth surface going up the walls here.  I realize it would be pretty easy to climb up the walls without any further assist.  Still some tidying up to do here and there.
 

 
Making that mast footing is going to take some time, but that is for another day.  Probably need to make some berth deck beams, if not orlop ones to start figuring out bulkheads and the well.  The cross section definitely feels pretty solid now!
 
Mark
 
 

Thanks for all the likes and looks.
 
While the wind howls outside and the temp reads below zero I set my sights on getting the middle stuff (my term) set in the lower hold.  This is 3/32" basswood strips primarily on either side of the thickstuff (1/8" basswood).  Finally I can call it good.
 

 
Next up is the regular planking (1/16" basswood).  It shouldn't take too long.
 
When I started this process of the internal planking I thought the big question was going to be whether to plank up from the keelson or down from the berth deck clamp.  The reality was a bunch of jumping around to set the thickstuff and now I am left with the filler.  A lot more respect for trying to accurately plank the internal hull of a complete hull, regardless of scale!
 
Mark

Another update in the evolution of the Druid-X, this time focusing on the garboard and limber strakes.  
 
For the limber strakes I am still using the thickstuff stock (1/8").  These require a slot to allow the limber boards to fit in between this and the keelson.  Using the Byrnes saw I quickly had my raw stock.
 

 
Using a spacer piece of wood to insure consistent separation from the keelson I glued in both limber strakes.
 

 
Everything ended up looking fit and proper.  A good result.
 
As a companion it was time to put on the first regular planks on the hull (1/16").  The natural choice was the garboard strake - and in fact I did one better, the garboard strake plus one each side.  These were again cut rectangular with no specific shaping.  The rest of the planking will be custom fit and cut.
 

 
The ends of the planks aren't perfectly flush with the aft and fore frames.  I am resisting the urge to sand them into all the outside and inside planks are attached to avoid screwing up the face of the frames - as much.
 
Next up is the middle stuff (my term - hah hah).  Some 3/32" stuff that abuts a lot of the thickstuff prior to the regular planking.  I also want to get the berth deck clamp in.  It wont be too long before the lower hold is sealed in.
 
Mark

Onto the thickstuff.  I have learned over and over that reading and studying only take you so far - it is the creation of an accurate 3D model that really brings things to life.  And this was reinforced again here.
 
I had never really associated the thickstuff planks with anything other than longitudinal support.  As I once again read over the available material it finally clicked:  The thickstuff planks correspond with the futtock joins of the frames.  This had escaped me primarily because half of these joins were never visible being on the other side of the frame.  It makes perfect sense and brings additional order.
 

 
Now I understand the ramifications of how I defined the frame joins at the beginning.  At first glance I would say my frames have their opposing joins too close.  However, I will invoke my American made cargo ship edict which lets me bypass all normal building standards.  I have learned something I did not know before.
 
The hull is at its widest near the forward part of this cross section and slightly reduced near the aft.  I decided not to reflect this change in the thickstuff planks themselves, keeping them straight and rectangular.  
 
The lines penciled on the internal hull represent the berth and gun deck locations.  Next up is the limber and garboard strakes.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
mark

The task for the day was a Keel Rabbet.  The difference for me is that this rabbet is more than for looks.  I actually need a garboard strake to fit into the rabbet and given the cross section you get to view the results on two ends.
 
So....off I went.  I did drill through the keel, the frames and partway through the keelson at each frame.  Four of these holes where then drilled through the false keel.  Adding trunnels through the whole assembly made it very stiff.
 

 

 

 
I am pretty happy with the results.  Now I get to start working on stuff that will for the most part be seen!
 
mark

It has been some banner time in the workshop the last couple of days.  I was boresighted on getting past the frames so this afternoon I was back at it, this time for the internal fairing.  To borrow a phrase "Say hello to my little friends"
 

 
Cabinet scrapers are very effective in removing wood on the internal hull.  Supplement that with some final sanding and you can do a lot without a lot of sawdust flying about.  More evidence of my activity is the current state of my rough worktable:
 

 
Definitely needs some cleanup tomorrow, but a tidy workshop does not show progress!  At the end of the day I can stand back and look at my hull with keel and keelson on (but not yet attached).  Still need another hour or so of refinement but I am happy with the progress and I can see the finish for this part of the project:
 

 
Tomorrow probably switch to the Lady Anne for awhile.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark