kruginmi

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

My Lady Anne has sat patiently but today was the day I listened to her call.  I am pretty close to rigging so that will be a good companion to the Druid-X.
 
I dusted her off and re-oriented myself to where I left off.  The last item I had done was position the eyebolts.  This ship is to be rigged as an operating clipper ship, the Pride of Baltimore II is the plans I am basing this off of.  Lots more blocks, eyebolts and lines to lay than what the original kit intended.  Pretty much nothing left of the original kit Harvey at this level.
 

 
I had concerns with how well the eyebolts would stay simply glued in place on the deck.  I have looked at the various options for affixing them but arrived at a solution for the ones on the deck:  I will add plugs of walnut for a little more pop and the ability to clench the bottom of the eyebolts themselves.  
 
This was a simple matter of finding an available walnut dowel that I thought correctly sized and drilling a companion hole for the dowel to fit in.  The dowel itself was drilled through for the eyebolt to pass and clenched down.  There are over 20 eyebolts to do but that shouldn't take too long.
 

 
After dry a couple swipes with some sandpaper should clean any residue up.  This is a fun build that I do what I want.  I will finish her this year.
 
I need to really think about what finish to use.  Suggestions are welcomed.
 
Mark

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

One item on this ship that I saw someone else do that I knew immediately that I was going to copy was the stairwell going down to the lower deck.  In a PoB - and one that has the hull complete - how would you do this?  The answer is to make a self contained box  and lower it into a cut hole in the deck:
 

 

 
In the following pic you will notice a slight indentation at the top of the box.  This was to allow the box to slide down next to the center bulkhead.
 

 
The box is painted black below deck level to allow the illusion of desending.
 

 

 
I really like the opportunities this provides both on this ship and others.  An easy implementation with good results.

My Lady Anne has sat patiently but today was the day I listened to her call.  I am pretty close to rigging so that will be a good companion to the Druid-X.
 
I dusted her off and re-oriented myself to where I left off.  The last item I had done was position the eyebolts.  This ship is to be rigged as an operating clipper ship, the Pride of Baltimore II is the plans I am basing this off of.  Lots more blocks, eyebolts and lines to lay than what the original kit intended.  Pretty much nothing left of the original kit Harvey at this level.
 

 
I had concerns with how well the eyebolts would stay simply glued in place on the deck.  I have looked at the various options for affixing them but arrived at a solution for the ones on the deck:  I will add plugs of walnut for a little more pop and the ability to clench the bottom of the eyebolts themselves.  
 
This was a simple matter of finding an available walnut dowel that I thought correctly sized and drilling a companion hole for the dowel to fit in.  The dowel itself was drilled through for the eyebolt to pass and clenched down.  There are over 20 eyebolts to do but that shouldn't take too long.
 

 
After dry a couple swipes with some sandpaper should clean any residue up.  This is a fun build that I do what I want.  I will finish her this year.
 
I need to really think about what finish to use.  Suggestions are welcomed.
 
Mark

Great Job!  It was a lot of fun watching this come together.  Appreciate the pics and build notes.
 
Mark

Slow but steady.  I worked the inlays into the front frame using walnut - that should make them pop with the finish.  After everything looked good I glued the frame to the jig.  I have begun work with the 27th frame (opposite) to do the same.  I waited until this time for these pieces so I could accurately account for the bevels.  This is targeted for eye candy so I wanted the join pieces to be placed consistently to look their best.
 

 
Lots of time spent on the frames.  If you have a solid base that is correct, the rest of the build is sooooo much easier. Bummer most of this will not be seen/
 
The outside of the hull is now faired (the inside is not as is pretty clear).  After doing the 27th frame my goal will be to get the wales on for maximum strength and then work the rabbet into the keel prior to attaching that.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Great Job!  It was a lot of fun watching this come together.  Appreciate the pics and build notes.
 
Mark

Careful reader mentioned that the joint is cut in a wrong direction - it should be rotated 90deg. Nice catch!
But decided to leave it as is - otherwise no point in making such joints, they would be fully invisible..
And making a third version of a keel on a first fully framed model sounds like an overkill, I will never finish it if I go that road Let's call it an artistic touch, like Hahn's frames
 
Toni, thank you for advice! I was looking on your log as a source of many inspirations!

Alan: hmm, I was sure that I read about the tissue paper method somewhere on MSW
Tried it on a scrap wood, works quite well. The paper inside the joint could be perforated and/or cut slightly to improve the glue penetration.
But such joint should be definitely reinforced with the treenails.
 
Mark: thanks! There would be some sanding ahead, which should also make the line black line more consistent

Good job Mike, slow but steady.....
 
Any finish you use should make that line pop also.
 
Mark

Looks great!! I don't know how you would have gotten those cannon trucks in place with the upper deck on

Slow but steady.  I worked the inlays into the front frame using walnut - that should make them pop with the finish.  After everything looked good I glued the frame to the jig.  I have begun work with the 27th frame (opposite) to do the same.  I waited until this time for these pieces so I could accurately account for the bevels.  This is targeted for eye candy so I wanted the join pieces to be placed consistently to look their best.
 

 
Lots of time spent on the frames.  If you have a solid base that is correct, the rest of the build is sooooo much easier. Bummer most of this will not be seen/
 
The outside of the hull is now faired (the inside is not as is pretty clear).  After doing the 27th frame my goal will be to get the wales on for maximum strength and then work the rabbet into the keel prior to attaching that.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Getting my head back wrapped around plastic AND working with a younger kid.
 
After gluing the lower deck in independently we painted then set the gun carriages in.  Yes it would have been much easier to paint the deck prior BUT....effective gluing down of the carriages required plastic to plastic.  The instructions show the carriages installed after the upper deck - who follows instructions?  Now, Peter was able to put them in with his fingers.  We had put some cannon barrels in previously to determine how far in the carriages should go (consistent with the dummy cannons).
 

 
A little extra glue here and there but nothing paint (now) wouldn't cover up.  I forged ahead a little with mine to show him what to do on his.  After painting the gun deck satisfactorily I now installed the upper deck.  A good squeeze to get in which mostly held it in place, with some help from some rubber bands.
 

 
Trying to follow the instructions and get the two decks glued in concurrently with the hull halves would be quite the feat.  With the process above everything is aligned and secure.  Painting all looks good and everything proper.  There are still two ships boats to host on the frames.  
 

 
Will I put the deck to deck posts in?  Still considering.  Relatively easy to do, just don't know if they are visible at all and worth the effort.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark and Peter

Slow but steady.  I worked the inlays into the front frame using walnut - that should make them pop with the finish.  After everything looked good I glued the frame to the jig.  I have begun work with the 27th frame (opposite) to do the same.  I waited until this time for these pieces so I could accurately account for the bevels.  This is targeted for eye candy so I wanted the join pieces to be placed consistently to look their best.
 

 
Lots of time spent on the frames.  If you have a solid base that is correct, the rest of the build is sooooo much easier. Bummer most of this will not be seen/
 
The outside of the hull is now faired (the inside is not as is pretty clear).  After doing the 27th frame my goal will be to get the wales on for maximum strength and then work the rabbet into the keel prior to attaching that.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Very neat color combination! Chess-style chocks

Slow but steady.  I worked the inlays into the front frame using walnut - that should make them pop with the finish.  After everything looked good I glued the frame to the jig.  I have begun work with the 27th frame (opposite) to do the same.  I waited until this time for these pieces so I could accurately account for the bevels.  This is targeted for eye candy so I wanted the join pieces to be placed consistently to look their best.
 

 
Lots of time spent on the frames.  If you have a solid base that is correct, the rest of the build is sooooo much easier. Bummer most of this will not be seen/
 
The outside of the hull is now faired (the inside is not as is pretty clear).  After doing the 27th frame my goal will be to get the wales on for maximum strength and then work the rabbet into the keel prior to attaching that.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

First thing I wanted to do was understand the scale of what I was attempting.  I grabbed some tracing paper and drew all the pieces in the correct place.  Not too surprised, but this comes in at 28" tall (sans base).  The admiral's eyes bugged out a little at the plan but it is full speed away (or full speed as my time allows).
 

 
This is just a planning tool, it wasn't drawn absolutely accurately for all of the details.  I am feeling pretty pumped for building this.  Lots of new skills to learn and do.  I am also leaning towards adding actual people into the scene.  The 1/48 scale Hasegawa aircraft ground crew shows promise with some modifications.  It will be neat to have a couple of people swinging in their hammocks on the berth deck, haven't seen that too often.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

As the planning starts, so does the log.  With my admiralty hull finally back home after a month road trip around town I am more convinced than ever that a cross section is needed.  With a variety of questions being consistently asked about the layout of the internals and how did this or that happen, the cross section would be perfect.
 

 
Being a cross section it will fit on the mantle but also bring home the resultant size of the full ship with the full main mast being present.
 
The first question is where to define the cut lines.  After looking at the plans I am looking at the following layout (frames 18-27):
 

 
Being a Hahn plan, there are no knees defined (not seen at all in the full model).  In this case they will be seen so I will add those in.  I am a little lucky in that this is an American built cargo ship purchased and converted by the British.  So......I do not necessarily have to follow exact British standards of the time.  I am pretty sure I will put in at least one futtock rider.
 
I am thinking of fully planking the outer hull inside and out both sides, but then one half of the inner hull decks will be left with all floor beams exposed.  The fully deck planked side will be fit out with ballast, water and food casks, cannon (kids happy about that) with associated tools and probably a hammock or two.
 
The rigging will be that which is possible.  I am thinking about having sails (lower one furled).  I have picked up the masting plans for the Brilliant / Druid in the possession of the Smithsonian.  That is a big help.  Lots of scratching of the head on tie down positions with the added quarterdeck extension.
 
Now to start on the frames.  I will not use the short cut frames jig provided but will go with more of wood saving futtock by futtock method (modified) - still using the inverted building stand / jig.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Those chocks look perfect, Mark.  They should jump right out with the finish.  Keep up the nice work.

Slow but steady.  I worked the inlays into the front frame using walnut - that should make them pop with the finish.  After everything looked good I glued the frame to the jig.  I have begun work with the 27th frame (opposite) to do the same.  I waited until this time for these pieces so I could accurately account for the bevels.  This is targeted for eye candy so I wanted the join pieces to be placed consistently to look their best.
 

 
Lots of time spent on the frames.  If you have a solid base that is correct, the rest of the build is sooooo much easier. Bummer most of this will not be seen/
 
The outside of the hull is now faired (the inside is not as is pretty clear).  After doing the 27th frame my goal will be to get the wales on for maximum strength and then work the rabbet into the keel prior to attaching that.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Back again for the final part of this build log.
 
There were an assortment of parts to be made to complete the below deck display and, in no particular order, here they are:
 
Storage racks,
 

 
Tiiddly table hangers,
 

 
Table,
 

 
Water breaker,
 

 
Plates, knives, cheese, tankard and "square meal"
 

 

 

 

 
Fire buckets,
 

 
Hammock,
 

 
The "tidy" gun showing training levers, fire bucket, cartridge and tackles,
 

 

 
Serving tools,
 

 

 
Bench with squeeze box,
 

 

 
Grease bucket and brush,
 

 
Tompions, flexible rammers and spongers and a deck broom,
 

 
The Legend.
 
HMS. Innominate Is carrying out some self maintenance. One of the great guns has been serviced and tidied away with all the serving tools neatly stowed. The gun crew are about to enjoy a meal and, maybe, some music.
 

 
Meanwhile the second gun is still being worked on. One trunnion strap is open and grease is being applied. There seems to be a problem under the barrel as well as it has been hoisted up to the deckhead and secured whilst work goes on.
 

 
The training and hauling tackles have been used to position the gun. The training levers are seen acting as wheel chocks; I have no proof that this was done but logically it might have been.
 
Where are the crew? They are in my minds eye. They fade in and out of this representation of a moment in time and, if you concentrate, you will see and hear them as I do.
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
I have greatly enjoyed this model and by using the plans as a guide I think I have achieved an interesting object that, hopefully, my great friend and O'Brian aficionado  will enjoy whilst he reads of Jack and his adventures.
 
Mikeaidanh 19/02/15
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

With my 9 year old son now having three models under his belt (two ships) with my help:
 

 
He asked what was next on the horizon.  I was actually given an Airfix 1:180 HMS Victory model recently and I realized I now had two in stock.  So.....we are going to do dual builds.  The models are packaged differently but contain exactly the same kit components.
 

 
We are laying things out and mapping out our plan.  I am planning to do this one out of the box with no 'improvements.'  His model will be all him.  It will be interesting to get back into painting.  The paint in both boxes is quite old so I will buy new acrylics locally (as close as possible in color).  He is the only kid so far (fifth of six) that has had any interest in models so I am doing whatever I can to fan the flames - how can you do wrong with the Victory?
 

 
Looking forward to spending the time together,
Mark

And we are off.....
 
Peter has really learned not to just grab the glue bottle and get the model assembled in one or two days which really helps.  First step was to wash the parts directed for use today, the main hull and decks.
 

 
This model is not the easiest to position the two main decks into the hull halves (already talked about in a separate build log).  Last night, knowing this, I did some practice assembly to figure out the best approach for us.  Additionally, I wanted to provide the clearest guidance to Peter on where to paint and especially where not to (glue line for decks onto hull).
 
I finally came up with a modified path that I think will work.  The two hull halves are to be glued together by themselves (no decks).  Tomorrow the lower deck will be glued in by itself to be followed a day or so later (after the lower deck is painted) by the upper deck.  This seems to keep everything in control and accurate.
 

 
In the pics I just put in the deck, the hull providing the grip to keep it in position.  Peter can be let loose painting soon enough with not too much concern on my part.
 
There are deck to deck beams near the middle of the lower deck.  These are the only 'sticky wickets' as they say.  I am not too worried about them.
 
Now off to allow the four year old some painting on other crafts.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark and Peter