kruginmi

Go for it Mark.. it'll be deadly !!
 
E

Thanks for all the thoughts. I have zeroed in on a 14 degree angle.
 

 
This is NOT a slip way angle, but more extreme.  It does show that a case height of 16.5" is sufficient.  In the future it would be relatively easy to lower the angle (even to level) and the case would still fit.  I will have two clear acrylic posts supporting the hull with two slimmer rods providing lateral movement support.
 
My goal is to have much easier access to viewing the deck cut-aways (or even having people notice that they are there).  There is no focused ship modeling audience in these parts so I am looking at this as displaying a piece of 'art' for most people.  Well, the options stay open but I have a plan and can get this cover ordered. 
 
Internal volume to be covered:
Height:  16.5"
Length:  31"
Width:  10.5"
 
The total base will cover:
Length:  34"
Width:  14"
 
Not too small but manageable.  I have a space in the family room that will accept this size so that is a good thing.  Now I can get back to that capstan.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Hi Mark,
 
Interesting choices for your display. I'm also going with a seamless case. As for angle, while I like the idea of a slipway to provide some angle, my gut is telling me that anything more extreme would look a little odd. It would certainly be unique though! As they say, "Catain's Choice", (with the Admiral's permission).

I think the Faux Slip-way's always look great. you could even put in a 'mirrored base' to show cut-away details more easily.. should look amazing whichever way you go Mark !
 
Stay Well
 
Eamonn

Taking a bit of a side trip to scope out the case for this model / monster / piece of art.  I am contracting for a seamless plexiglass cover so this is necessary to define the dimensions
 
If you expand the pics you should see my sketches much better.  First off was defining the necessary base:
 

 
The total dimension was 35" by 14".  Pictured is the bottom base, the molding against the plexiglass, the plexiglass and finally the platform on which the stand will be mounted.  The platform will have a piece of black fabric covering it.  The base and molding will be stained oak.
 
The big question comes to the height of the case.  If I went with the traditional approach the following picture would be all that was necessary, with a resultant height of 13":
 

 
However......given all the cut outs my wife suggested maybe an angle would work better such as:
 

 
This could add as much as 7" to the height (20" total).  This is more extreme than being mounted on a faux launch way.  The posts holding the ship up will be acrylic and I will cast specific clear resin clamps for it (another post).  I just wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this approach.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
 

Taking a bit of a side trip to scope out the case for this model / monster / piece of art.  I am contracting for a seamless plexiglass cover so this is necessary to define the dimensions
 
If you expand the pics you should see my sketches much better.  First off was defining the necessary base:
 

 
The total dimension was 35" by 14".  Pictured is the bottom base, the molding against the plexiglass, the plexiglass and finally the platform on which the stand will be mounted.  The platform will have a piece of black fabric covering it.  The base and molding will be stained oak.
 
The big question comes to the height of the case.  If I went with the traditional approach the following picture would be all that was necessary, with a resultant height of 13":
 

 
However......given all the cut outs my wife suggested maybe an angle would work better such as:
 

 
This could add as much as 7" to the height (20" total).  This is more extreme than being mounted on a faux launch way.  The posts holding the ship up will be acrylic and I will cast specific clear resin clamps for it (another post).  I just wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this approach.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
 

Slowly plugging away at the rudder as time allows.  With the silver soldering finally set right I can move forward.  The metal work still requires the nail holes drilled and then blackened but I am happy with them.
 
After soldering the three pieces together it took about an hour to slowly bend and fashion it to the correct profile.  After I was satisfied (and the length was cut to its required length) I did mark its profile and chisel it in.  As is seen in the pictures, the pieces stay put rather well even before glue and nails.  I want to have the rudder work totally done and rock solid before I start the hull side to keep the variables to a minimum.
 

 
Still have a rear wood piece on the rudder and then eventually the tiller arm.  My goal is to have the rudder basically done by the end of the weekend.
 
mark

Hi Mark.
A very nice build with some excellent details. ... No lots of excellent details.
 
Regards Antony.

Thanks for all the looks, likes and comments!  I am starting to feel a bit of disbelief that this build is coming to a conclusion (not without continuous challenges and hurdles to overcome).
 
Forged ahead to the quarterdeck extension:
 

 
LOTS of lessons learned here  (hah, hah):
1.  Always be aware of part orientation (which side is forward, which is back).  This is particularly true when cutting mortises for rail columns.  Luckily not a huge issue since the aft side is hidden on the deck beam.
2.  Always be aware of whether or not your measurements include or not include the floor planking.  That can sure ruin a lot of hand carved rail columns if they are cut too short. 
 
Sometimes you get the bear, sometimes the bear gets you.  I was able to work through my Mark made issues and eventually persevere.
 
When I had originally completed the quarterdeck extension I planked the whole section solid.  Standing back and looking at the result the little voice in my head (cause of so much additional work) clearly stated it just didn't go with the rest of the build and had to be modified.  I went back and cut the view ports in.  It does look a lot better.
 

 
The capstan is still entirely removable. 
 
I did think of a issue to think through though:
I have decided to add the capstan bars to the capstan on the quarterdeck.  The radius of the bars is somewhat evident and extends almost to the ships wheel.  The problem is the binnacle.  Its location puts it right in the middle of the capstan bar space.  I am thinking that the binnacle was removable when required.  Looking at the Hahn photos he did not include a binnacle (nor is one shown on the plans).  I am starting to think to add tie down points for the binnacle but not include the actual one.  Any thoughts?
 
Stay Building My Friends,
mark

I finished the original quarterdeck planking.  Now I am moving on to the extension built on by the British.  This is complicated by needing to build the deck railing between it and the gun deck prior to the planking.
 


The British added this so that the required capstan addition was usable.  That this wasn't originally planned for the ship will be seen with the resultant cut away cap railing and exposed section of the extension where the ladders will be.  The railing will still end at its normal place and that was a head scratcher for me for awhile before I remembered the ratlines / shrouds for the main mast occupy this space and provide the same function (perils of not thinking about a fully rigged ship!).

Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Very Nice. Well Done.
 
Later Tim

Well, that certainly didn't take long....Makes total sense. 
 
The view I have is a clean build / model.  I think the capstan bars provide that cleaner view (plus providing a bigger visual entity) than omitting and adding the binnacle instead.  Plus everyone recognizes the capstan bars so I think I have talked myself into my decision.
 
Mark

Thanks for all the looks, likes and comments!  I am starting to feel a bit of disbelief that this build is coming to a conclusion (not without continuous challenges and hurdles to overcome).
 
Forged ahead to the quarterdeck extension:
 

 
LOTS of lessons learned here  (hah, hah):
1.  Always be aware of part orientation (which side is forward, which is back).  This is particularly true when cutting mortises for rail columns.  Luckily not a huge issue since the aft side is hidden on the deck beam.
2.  Always be aware of whether or not your measurements include or not include the floor planking.  That can sure ruin a lot of hand carved rail columns if they are cut too short. 
 
Sometimes you get the bear, sometimes the bear gets you.  I was able to work through my Mark made issues and eventually persevere.
 
When I had originally completed the quarterdeck extension I planked the whole section solid.  Standing back and looking at the result the little voice in my head (cause of so much additional work) clearly stated it just didn't go with the rest of the build and had to be modified.  I went back and cut the view ports in.  It does look a lot better.
 

 
The capstan is still entirely removable. 
 
I did think of a issue to think through though:
I have decided to add the capstan bars to the capstan on the quarterdeck.  The radius of the bars is somewhat evident and extends almost to the ships wheel.  The problem is the binnacle.  Its location puts it right in the middle of the capstan bar space.  I am thinking that the binnacle was removable when required.  Looking at the Hahn photos he did not include a binnacle (nor is one shown on the plans).  I am starting to think to add tie down points for the binnacle but not include the actual one.  Any thoughts?
 
Stay Building My Friends,
mark

Thanks for all the looks, likes and comments!  I am starting to feel a bit of disbelief that this build is coming to a conclusion (not without continuous challenges and hurdles to overcome).
 
Forged ahead to the quarterdeck extension:
 

 
LOTS of lessons learned here  (hah, hah):
1.  Always be aware of part orientation (which side is forward, which is back).  This is particularly true when cutting mortises for rail columns.  Luckily not a huge issue since the aft side is hidden on the deck beam.
2.  Always be aware of whether or not your measurements include or not include the floor planking.  That can sure ruin a lot of hand carved rail columns if they are cut too short. 
 
Sometimes you get the bear, sometimes the bear gets you.  I was able to work through my Mark made issues and eventually persevere.
 
When I had originally completed the quarterdeck extension I planked the whole section solid.  Standing back and looking at the result the little voice in my head (cause of so much additional work) clearly stated it just didn't go with the rest of the build and had to be modified.  I went back and cut the view ports in.  It does look a lot better.
 

 
The capstan is still entirely removable. 
 
I did think of a issue to think through though:
I have decided to add the capstan bars to the capstan on the quarterdeck.  The radius of the bars is somewhat evident and extends almost to the ships wheel.  The problem is the binnacle.  Its location puts it right in the middle of the capstan bar space.  I am thinking that the binnacle was removable when required.  Looking at the Hahn photos he did not include a binnacle (nor is one shown on the plans).  I am starting to think to add tie down points for the binnacle but not include the actual one.  Any thoughts?
 
Stay Building My Friends,
mark

Today was the internal hawse hole linings.  Given the size of the holes and proximity to the edge of the pieces, opted for boxwood for this detail work.  First used some basswood to size things out though.  This lining will project out from the other wall planking by 1/32 (1/2 the width of the 1/16 wall planking).
 
The initial prototype built on the waterway just didn't look right and it was obvious this thick stuff needed to go down to the deck.  So, after measuring out the required distance I chiseled out the waterway.
 

 
Once I had the hawse hole lining roughed out I put it in place and did a light drill from the outside to place the location of the two hawse holes.  Once this was done the piece was removed and (as shown in the next pic) I used a smaller drill to locate these locations to the other (finished) side.  I could then drill the full size hole from both sides to avoid tear out and get a very neat and accurate hole.  I then used a file to put in a shallow groove  providing a smooth groove leading to the deck.  Once put in place the drill showed a clean smooth hole through the whole hull
 

 
I sized to fit under the first opening then rounded the edges exposed to the wall planking.  This will make the planking neat and tidy.
 

 
Now I can move on to the final bow planking.
 
-mark

Still plugging away and actually have a lot of fun.  I am now putting stuff on that will actually be easily seen in the finished product.  The big additions lately are the cap rails over the mid-deck section.  I used boxwood for these because of its hardness, given the potential for banging around during the construction to come.  Pretty much everything else is basswood.
 

 
This morning I got the chesstrees re-attached and the pass through hull sheaves on one side of the ship.  Still many details to work (eg I am adding a manger, window sills) on the gun deck - my goal is to finish this section up early next week.
 

 
Lots of sanding, sanding, sanding.  I have partially gel coated completed sections of the hull to highlight the plank seams, this will be 100% as the assemblies are finalized.
 
-mark

Sailor, I tried directing the oldest one and that failed so I am just letting my 9 year old go with whatever he likes- just so long as glue is involved.
 
John and all the likes - thanks for stopping by.
 
I have been working on the wall planking as the next step:
 

 
I have refined my theorem:  Sand until you believe you are 100% - you are actually 25%.  Repeat for the same time period - now you are 50%. Do two more times and you will be done.
 
I have thought I had gone over these walls so many times smoothing them down.  Well, start putting the planks and all the irregularities arise out of the smoothed walls to create a landscape looking more like the moon than a polished piece of glass.
 

 
With the last pic you can see the deck addition clamps put on by the British forward of the quarterdeck.
 
My belief is that I am currently at the 50% mark for sanding.  Still room for improvement but should be there later tonight.  The bow is currently untouched.
 
-mark

A pretty big milestone in my build - the gun deck planking baseline is complete!  I had hoped to finish it this weekend but had had my doubts.  Finally I was able to stand back and view the deck as envisioned. 
 

 
Still lots of details to work on for this deck before I can move up but I take the victory today.  I did put everything that had been laid aside back on to insure I still had everything as well as see that nothing had changed fit wise.
 

 
Finally to add some proportionality I provide a view of myself and the ship.
 

 
Tonight I move on to my 9 year old's F-14 plastic model (last hope in the family).
 
mark
 
 

Thanks for all the likes (and looks),
 
I am still pounding away at the port side.  Making those irregular planks at the bow / stern sure take some thought and time.  One they are attached though, the work pays off.
 

 

 
A lesson learned is to always use basswood first.  Even if I move to other woods I will always have a supply of at least 1/16th inch basswood boards for prototyping and trying things out.  I do start with paper, but that wrinkles and folds and can only get you so close.  Basswood is pretty easy to work with and will generate a 1:1 template for very little cost (even if the first one or two don't work out).
 
At the other end of the ship I am still looking at a gap that I hope to fill by tomorrow night:
 

 
My current plan shows this ship finishing up the middle of the year at the current pace and tasks remaining (making it around 13 years since the first cut).  I even caught myself looking at some plans thinking about the next one.  Must focus!  Lots of things left to do.
 
-mark

Thanks for the good information Gary.  Constantly learning in this hobby.
 
This evening I had some time and have diagrammed out my plan for the outside planking.  I had wanted to include some locking planks for the experience in making them and also the look they provide. 
 

 
With the space available I am opting for two regular plank runs, one on both sides of the locking planks.  The final run is the trim piece that totally encircle the open space.  I am still undecided if I should work from the mid section to the outside or from the hull towards the middle, but will probably work from the outside in.
 
Lots of sanding and fitting in my future.
mark
 

Thanks for stopping in and taking a look!
 
On to the gun deck planking!  Unlike most of the berth deck there are all sorts of items poking through the deck requiring special consideration and thought.  As an example the following (and where they fit):
 

 
For the target plank width I decided one fourth of the width of the coamings would be just right.  I do have some liberties here since this ship was originally built in America as a cargo ship before being bought into the British navy.  This decision made for some clean lines:
 

 
After getting these affixed I thought the open sections needed some cleaning up to get good lines for the eye.  I decided to go for a trim piece slightly less than half plank size and framed out the opening, using mitered corners at all joins.  There is no end grain visible.
 

 
For clean up I find a scraper (usually a straight razor blade) works best.  A few swipes and everything looks clean.  Now on to the deck sides.
 
mark

Success breeds progress.  Tonight was to climb the mountain.that I had thought about for a long time  - the pumps.
 
I had lathed out rods to represent the pumps a LONG time ago (in a galaxy / home far - far away).  Ever since then I had known that I wanted to improve their look above the deck where they were most visible.  That decision had churned in my brain ever since, growing larger and larger in mythical proportions of complexity.  Today was the day, they had to be done.
 
The following shows a before and after shot (hopefully you can tell the bottom pump is the before):
 

 
As is usually the case, the reality wasn't that bad at all.  After marking where the pumps came through the deck, that line was scribed with a knife and the rod paired down.  I used a draftsman guide of six sided shapes to find the appropriate size that I wanted.  Wood was cut to these dimensions and I eyeballed the necessary bevel at the edges.  These were then glued together and onto the rod.
 

 
I used piece of boxwood for a cap.  The actual handle will be generated later. 
 

 
Tomorrow the gun deck planking begins.  mark
 
 

Making some headway, the last connection to the berth deck was the ladder.  I decided a jig was necessary and I came up with below:
 

 
The length of the gaps allowed some tension to be available to hold the treads while the sides are applied.  I first measured the tread depth from the plan unfortunately from the stairs from the gun / main deck to the quarter deck.  After putting the stairs in place it was pretty obvious this didn't leave a lot of room for sailors to make it through the coaming!
 

 
Upon further investigation I found a view off to the side that showed a much skinnier tread.  The jig now paid off since it was just five minutes before I had a replacement made.  The result was much more viable:
 

 
With the windlass plate off you can see the two sets of stairs from both decks. This will definitely work.
 
As i complete the deck requirements from bow to stern I will very soon be laying the deck planks.
 
Mark

As I move to the gun deck (which is actually visible as the top main deck) everything added really has a big impact.  As I work to get the hatch coamings affixed I got one last look at a component that I was particularly proud of.  Once it was affixed most of the beauty was hidden but at least I have photographic evidence!
 

 
The following is the installed view  with and without the associated quarterdeck roof.
 

 
To permanently affix the deck beams I needed to add the waterways.  Given the flow of the hull, the waterway from the stern to close to the bow was affixed in one straight piece, slightly bent and glued into place.  For the profile, the same scraper was used as the berth deck.  For the bow, I used my favorite technique of using post-it notes to get the rough shape, followed by a piece of paper to refine, finally using the correct wood. 
 

 
When the port piece was cut out I was happy to find that by flipping it over it fit just fine in the starboard side.  I love it when these things like that happen.
 

 
Mark
 
Now on actually laying planks (as soon as the stairway coaming is put in).

After a bit of a hiatus I finally allocated some time and much to my chagrin the first thing I did was to pick up the hull exerting too much pressure on the rudder and.....snap, the tiller arm broke where it connected to the rudder.  I didn't take any pictures so there will be no records of the mishap (hah, hah).
 
Bad news, good news.  Bad news was that it broke.  Good news is that the area was still entirely accessible.  So I took two steps backward and removed the rudder structure.  I added a steel pin where the tiller arm met the rudder (brad nail with head clipped off) and after everything checked out reinstalled everything.  So, so many hours later I am right back to where I started from.
 
Now to be so very careful in the future anywhere near the rudder!
 
Okay, now to actually make progress.  I am making the plan for the gun deck and my original plan was to replicate what I did on the berth deck and use straight planks (as shown with the line on the bottom part of the picture):
 

 
I cannot claim that I had intent with how I laid out the faux carlings but it certainly looks like the better idea is to plank the outer areas with curved planks that match the flow of the hull (tried to demonstrate with line on the upper part of the picture).  Certainly make the time required to implement a lot longer but it will show much better.  The central part of the deck will still have the straight planks.
 
Mark