Elia

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

Remco, this stuff is so good, it's beyond mere praise. I'm blown away.
 
Bob

All that's missing now are the soot stains on the brickwork. Terrific job, Remco!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 35 –Deadwood scores continued/stern timbers
 
Chiseling out the cant frame scores in place has gotten some comments, so I will show a couple more pictures of this.  In the first picture, a ¼” wide paring chisel is being used to pare out the third score forward after the outline had been scribed fairly deeply to prevent tear out.  
 

 
In this picture the chisel is being used with the bevel against the work so the bevel angle can be used to keep the paring cut vertical and controlled by the angle of the chisel.  The chisel is being lightly tapped with a small mallet.  This permits much better control of the cut than pushing the chisel and risking slippage and tear out.
 
In the next picture the chisel is being used to plunge cut and deepen the side line.
 

 
Once the depths along the boundaries of the score are sufficiently deepened, the center area can be pared and leveled out.  There will very likely be some additional light paring done when the cant frames are fitted.
 
In the next picture, all of the scores have been completed and the work on the stern framing has begun. 
 

 
The starboard stern timber is being fitted up in this picture.  The height at the top was measured from the drawing and transferred to the “clamped square”.  With the square positioned on the base drawing, the correct position of the timber can be fixed.  These timbers will be glued to the sternpost and bolted through.
 
In the next picture the port stern timber is being glued on.
 

 
The small height pencil mark on the clamped square can be seen in this picture.  The next picture shows both timbers installed – with the clamps cleared away.  All six starboard scores can also be seen in this picture.
 

 
The forward faces of both these stern timbers are beveled to match the angles aft of the aftermost cant frames.  Those frame pairs will butt against those faces when they are seated in the aftermost scores.  Then lots of bolts.
 
Assembly of those two cant frames is shown in the next picture.
 

 
There is quite a bit of work involved in these.  First, the lofting is more time consuming than for the square frames.  A lot of measurements were required for plotting the three curves involved in each cant pair.  Also, in these aft cants, scores for additional stern timbers and horizontal filling pieces were included on the patterns.  Following the pictured assembly step, the frames still need to be beveled, including the face bevel for the deadwood joint.  Then before installing, scores for the fillers and other stern pieces also need to be cut.  They are quite complex.  I am hoping they will fit together correctly.
 
Perhaps we shall see in the next parts.
 
 
Ed

Wow thanks guys! It's really fun to build this little stove, much more than I had imagined. Now I understand why people build small buildings from individual brick, one ought to try once. 
Tony, I think a simple stew would be appropriate.
Gee Rusty you're tough to please
 
So chimney added, time to make some pots and pans....
 

 

 

 

 
Remco

The Admiral says that is not official; I’m insane!
 
I finished belaying all the running rigging.  Looks nice, but not realistic enough.  I remembered reading a post some time ago concerning the coiling and securing of ropes.  I found it and set about trying to add coiled lines to the model.
 

 
Like I said, when the Admiral saw what I was doing she said I’m out of my mind.
 
Toward the stern there just isn’t enough clearance between the pin rail and the deck to allow for a hanging coil.  I’ll have to come up with something; maybe just place a rounded coil over the Belaying Pin.
 

Photos of process and results I obtained.
 
Stage 1: I sanded down to remove several mistakes after various failed tries with traditional masking tape.  I then painted the inside of the cove yellow and sanded off any yellow that was thick enough to cause problems later.
 
Stage 2: I filled the cover over the yellow paint with the liquid mask material and let it dry.  The mask is blue.  I also trimmed and removed (frequently by scraping) excess mask where it crept out of the cove.  This didn't happen much.

Stage 3: I painted the area black with a brush.  (Spray would have been better for finish).
 
Stage 4: I pealed off the liquid mask using dental tools and tweezers.

This is how it looks (furniture is not attached, just setting there. My conclusion is that you can get a better line using the tape, and perhaps other methods, but this is what I'm staying with for now.  There will be a lot of hull repair from all the handling.

An other trade to master, stone  masonry ... 
 
I cancelled the stones I had ordered and got a rubber mold from dioramadebris.co.uk instead , now I can cast my own bricks in the color I want. First I made a big batch with slightly different colors (plaster & pigment)
 

 
Then I had to find a way to make the mortar. At first I glued the sones with thin paper sheet in-between to get an even spacing. I had planned to use sculpey to make the mortar but this doesn't stick to plaster :-( 
So I had to find an other solution, from the DYI shop I got a pack with powder mixed with water this is used to fill holes in walls, as this dries in just under 1 hour it looked good, but this didn't stick to the plaster too :-( 
 

 
So I mixed it with titebond and pigment and this was a working formula. The surplus removed just before it dries and with a wet brush I softened the flushing. 
 

 

 

 

 
At this point the chimney needs to be made, I'll make this from brick and not steel like my original plan. In the two holes two big cooking pans are fitted. The square hole's on the sides will get a metal hinged doors. Opposite to the hearth I'll make a pantry with different kitchen utensils. I must say it's really time consuming to make but this is really a lot of fun to do. The admiral is complaining she didn't see me all weekend :-D 
 
Remco

A little more progress today.  The bridge is now completed except for the periscopes and antenna mast.
 
I finished the crew hatch, it now has a hinged lid, a ladder and is painted and installed!  
Next I made the snorkel intake pipe guard and installed that one together with the intake pipe.  While I was at it I also made the exhaust pipe and painted it.
 
This was all time consuming work but very satisfying.  Tomorrow we'll tackle the crew hatches on the gun decks and the AA gun buns.  I seriously doubt that I can finish all of them tomorrow but there is always another day.
 
Okay, here are a few pics of today's work.  
 

A seagull's eye view of the bridge.  The ladder and lid of the crew hatch is clearly visible here and yes, according to the drawings, this hatch tube does stick above the deck a little.  That crazy looking pipe with a hood like thing on top is the snorkel intake pipe with the protective guard.  That was a tough one to make.
 

A port side profile shot of the bridge with the entire conning tower.  That black pipe sticking up at the end of the con is the engine exhaust when snorkeling.  This allowed the boat to run the diesels to charge the batteries and continue to cruise while submerged.  This also allows the commander to cruise at a high speed without depleting the batteries.   It also provided fresh air for the crew that circulated through the boat.  Rather cleaver if you ask me.  Obviously, navigation was done with the navigation periscope.
As mentioned yesterday, right below the flag post holder you can see a small hole in the support.  That is to hook a block and tackle for the dingy lift boom. 
 
Cheers,

8:22 AM.
 
With those square doors that tiny superstructure make the impression of a little house to me. It could be design in our days from MVRDV dutch architects for example... Watching so many movies with all the doors with round corners have "intoxicated" me. Funny how the things were done on 1939 or before and how the designe of a single door has changed over the years.
 
Here´s a pic I have found on inet, you might have it. With the amount of pics on your log, I´m sure will be here... Anyway It´s another one that goes to my wall on a frame!

 
 
Happy day!
 
 
Daniel.

My thanks to everyone who dropped in and your like votes.
 
It was still a little chilly in the garage but it's warming up, it was 55 F.  I tried to finish the bridge today but could not complete the crew hatch there.  The Admiral found a little brass looking bell dangling from a demitasse spoon.  It's still a little too large but I hung it anyhow.  I'm still going to look for a little bell though, like girls or ladies have hanging on a charm bracelet.
I also cemented the engine power telegraphs and repeaters and painted the bridge area.  I'm pleased.
 
Then I made the most aft part of the aft gun deck.  I made it out of brass sheet in the form of a T and soldered a 2 mm brass tube to the top for the flagpole / railing stanchion.  The bottom leg of that T has a hole for the pulley to hoist the dingy out.   I managed to shove this brass piece under the already existing deck and then covered it with a small piece of 1 mm ply as the continuation of the deck.  For all practical purposes it looks like it's made out of one piece of steel plate.  Still needs some dressing up on the bottom side.
Below that will be the aft deck spot light.
 
Next will have to be the rest of the hatch and AA gun bun hinges so I can start installing the deck slats and railing.  I also need to finish the periscopes, antenna mast and the snorkel pipes.  
 
You may have noticed that I am working my way down do the main deck.
 
Below are a few pics of how all this looks as of today.
 

We are looking at the starboard side of the bridge with the engine telegraph and repeater, the antenna brace with the Admiral's bell.  It looks like I may to to some minor "body" filling under the railing top 
 

This is looking into the bridge from a ¾ angle from the rear port side.  The paint is really grey, it may have taken on the reflection from that piece of plywood behind the model.
 

Looking forward and sorry for not holding the camera horizontal.  Here you can see the aft end of the rear AA gun deck with the flag pole / railing stanchion.  Right below that is where the aft deck spotlight will be.  What appears to be a hole below the flagpole is actually the vertical leg of the T where a pulley can be hung.  Yes, the gun bun still needs to be dressed properly and that's on the to do list.
 

This is a ¾ aft side view of the bridge looking aft from the port side.
 

Port siide view of the conning tower.  Ah yes, door hinges - - - 
 
Cheers,

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 34 – Stern Deadwood continued
 
In the first picture the stern deadwood has been constructed.  A template has been made and is being used to mark out the bearding line on the model.
 

 
As mentioned before, the bearding line describes the position along the hull where the hull profiles intersect with the width of the deadwood.  Below this line the deadwood narrows down to the rabbet of the keel.  The cant frames rest on this line and provide for the increased breadth of the hull above it.  The other side was marked with the same template.
 
In the next picture another template is being used to mark the cutting down line on the port side.
 

 
The cutting down line marks the intersections of the inboard faces of the frames with the deadwood.  It is just slightly below the top of the deadwood.
 
In the next picture the fore and aft lines of each cant frame are being marked on the deadwood.
 

 
These lines are squared up from the base drawing using the small square and the special Plexiglas square that was made to clear the keel side support strips on the shipway.
 
The next picture shows the cant frame lines drawn in.  As with the bow, these lines define the shallow mortises that will seat each cant frame.
 

 
The dashed lines forward of the cant frames mark the location of the half frames back to the last full square frame.  The next picture shows the remaining area to be framed.
 

 
In the next picture the two central stern timbers have been cut out and are held up in place on the sternpost.  Stern framing evolved during the clipper period.  Early clippers continued to feature the square counter stern and transoms of earlier times.  As the elliptical and circular sterns evolved, new methods were used in their construction.  Young America’s actual construction was not recorded.  I have elected to go with the transomless framing that was widely used at the time on circular/elliptical sterns.
 

 
In the next picture the lines of the cant frame mortises are being scribed with a knife before paring them out.
 

 
The last picture shows the in situ paring of the mortises on the starboard side
in progress.
 

 
The extent of each mortise is defined by the two cant frame face lines, the cutting down line at the top and the bearding line at the bottom.
 
Ed

So, lets see if we can remember how this all went together...
 
Starting off with the center keel assembled and the rabbet cut below the bearding line:
 

 

 
Dry fitting of the bulkheads:
 

 
 
 
And the bulkheads glued in place:
 

 
 
Stern block installed and shaped (used a dremel for that):
 

 

 
 
 
More to follow...
 
Thor

On to the hull planking. Thanks to the sleek lines I recall the planking to be quite straight-forward; with the bulkheads faired the planks joined up nicely. 
 
 
First the waterway planks installed:
 

 

 
 
 
 
Then on to the hull planking. Its a single layer of planks, so even though the hull was to be painted I wanted it to be as smooth as I could get it.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
Planking complete, first sanding done. Those beautiful schooner lines are starting to show!
 

 
 
 
 
Then a layer of filler was applied (yeah - LOTS of it..):
 

 
 
 
 
 
Then a final sanding (creating much dust...) and a thin layer of wipe-on poly:
 

 

 
 
More to come..
 
Thor

Time to start planking those decks!
 
The center foredeck planks being installed. In hindsight I should have installed a thin false deck; this would have made the installation of the deck planking easier in some areas. To simulate caulking I rubbed the edges of the deck planks with charcoal. Messy, but ultimately came out OK!
 

 

 
The foredeck planks are "nibbed" into a thin nibbing strake that runs parallel to the waterway boards. This was a bit of a challenge since its a very thin (and breakable) plank to be working with. But I finally completed all the cuts without breaking it!
 

 
 
 
Fore deck planking complete, first planks of the quarterdeck being installed.
 

 
 
Quarterdeck planking being installed. These are a bit trickier than the foredeck because they are all tapered.
 

 
 

 
 
The quarterdeck planks are also nibbed.
 

 
 
All done with the deck planking, planks given a light sanding and a thin coat of wipe-on poly.
 

 
 
More to come!
 
Thor
 

On to the scuppers:
 
I replaced the called out 3/16 bulwark plank with a lower 1/8 and an upper 1/16 plank. The 1/8 plank lined up nicely with the fore- and quarterdeck in such a way that small cut-outs on the top would work as quarterdeck scuppers and cut-outs on the bottom would work for the foredeck. By pinning the plank down on the drawing I first marked out the scupper locations, then using a flat machine vice as a "depth guage" I filed out the scuppers with a small needle file. This gave the scuppers a nice, rectangular shape.
 

 
 
"Scuppered" plank dry-fitted:
 

 
 
Scupper plank installed and filler applied:
 

 
 
After the scupper planks where installed it was time to install the false timbers to the bulwarks. Unfortunately I have no shots of the actual install of these.
 
 
 
It was around this time that I suddenly discovered that my ship was about 5mm too short! So I made an add-on piece for the stern block, and later hogged out the stern interior to get the correct interior deck length. Took some doing, but came out OK.
 

 
 
"Add-on" block glued and clamped to the stern:
 

 
 
Filler applied to the stern:
 

 

 

 
 
More to come!
 
Thor

Onwards & upwards!
 
Prior to installing the cap rail I need to paint the deck waterways (light grey) and bulwarks (white).
 

 

 
 
 Then came the installation of the cap rails. I managed to break several of the laser cut pieces and ended up making most of the parts from scratch.
 
Stern cap rail:
 

 
 
 
Shaping the cap rails:
 

 
 
Bow cap rail:
 

 
 
Halfway done:
 

 
 
Cap rails installed:
 

 
 

 
 
More to come!
 
Thor
 
 

I’ve attached all the standing and running rigging to the sails and am ready to begin attaching the sails to the model.
 

 
I opted to begin with the Fore Sail.  It just seemed to me that this was the logical sail to start with because I have to get in pretty close to tie the Mast Hoops to the sail.  Looks like it’s all coming together.  At least this one.  All in all, it took the better part of two hours to get this sail in place.
 

 
I’ll move on to the Main Sail next.
 

Hey guys,
 
Wayne, thanks for stopping in!  I just noticed we have the same quote in our signatures just with different wording, how funny.
 
Hamilton, as I mentioned in my previous post, I am so relieved to have finally finished the coppering and I agree that the build will start to move along at a better pace now.  In fact, this update has multiple mini projects which were completed.
 
Update time:
 
This update is a bit picture heavy, sorry.  Also, this update is one in which the camera shows every flaw!  Anyways, I created the pintles and gudgeons for attaching the rudder and it is now attached.  The work of creating and installing the bulwark stanchions is also finished.
 
I cut a strip of brass measuring 1/32" x 1/64" off of a sheet of 1/32" thick brass I had laying around.  Then, to create the bends in the material, I clamped about 3/16" in a set of pliers and used my jeweler's hammer to hammer it flat against the flat side of the pliers I was using.  Then, just bent the second bend the best I could in the tight space about 1/8" up the strip and snipped off.  I was happy to get to use my jeweler's hammer for this because I just picked it up at the IPMS nationals which had something like 20,000 square feet dedicated to vendors and came fairly close to my stomping grounds.  On a side note, it was mostly all plastic models in the competition but there were about 5 wooden ship models there as well, one being the MS Niagara which is a ship I will likely build in the future (debating on that being my next project).  Back on topic, here are the rudder pintles before being painted and attached.  
 

 
I then painted them black along with the gudgeons and used epoxy to affix it all to the rudder and hull.  Chuck used a piece of wire in the hinge but I figured that won't be seen and the epoxy should be more than capable of holding the rudder in place.  The full scale measurements of the pintles and gudgeons are 3" tall and 1.5" thick which seemed reasonable to me.  Everything in this picture looks horrendous!  Once I saw the picture I looked very closely and decided I may do a little touch up of the paint but most of the flaws are not noticeable to the naked eye and it definitely passes the 5-foot test as it stands now.
 

 
When I was cutting the brass strip, it created a bunch of brass dust which I thought I would save for a future project maybe to be used as gold inside a chest or something.  I don't know for sure if it will prove to be of any use but I really did think it looked a lot like gold lol.  
 

 
Next, the bulwark stanchions.  I took pictures every step of the way except for ripping the strip of wood I used for them, so there are a lot of pictures here.
 
First, I marked the locations where the bulwark stanchions will be by using a strip of 1/4" square basswood and a sharpie.  I must have screwed up a little bit on the rear quarterdecks because one side has one more than the other.  No big deal but I thought I would mention it.
 

 

 
Next, I cut small lengths of wood from the 3/64" square strip of boxwood I ripped from a 3/64" thick sheet.  These dimensions are from Chuck's practicum where he calls for 1.2mm wood and these are about 1.15mm, pretty close. 
 

 
Following Chuck's instructions, I made each one a little too long.
 

 
Next, each one was filed down to be flush with the top of the bulwarks.
 

 
Here are a couple pictures of the bulwark stanchions installed from both the bow and stern of the ship.
 

 

 
Now on to installing the cap rail, bulwark details like cleats and eye bolts, fabricating the splash rail and fairleads, and then drilling the mast holes.  I like when there are a bunch of small projects to work on, it makes the build more enjoyable for me.  See you next time!

Hey guys, 
 
Alas, the copper plating is finished!  It is such a relief to have finally finished that project.  I think it looks passable but there is definite room for improvement.  I give the guys who do a great copper job all the credit in the world, wow.  Anyway, here are the pictures of the finished project.
 

 

 
Im not sure what happened to the waterline on this side.  The line had faded almost completely but I thought I could make it out, apparently not.  The port side waterline came out a bit better, still not perfect though.
 

 
Well, I am super happy to be done with this portion of the build.  Next will be installing the rudder, cutting and installing the bulwark stanchions, and then the cap rail, bowsprit and the small details around deck level.  The build should be picking up in productivity, which will be nice considering I will have much less time for the next few months.  
 
Until next time,

Thx for your interest, Daniel
 
Here is explanation to your question
 
Working on part of bulwark with white panels, I made it wide as soon is possible to fit scale on C-plans. But, when time to mount them come, half of milimeter up, 1/4 mm down, layer of glue, and it drops almost 5mm wide instead about 4 mm. This reflects to outside look, because second rail from top must follow down edge of panels and future nailholder
 
Then, considering I am not able to make rail thiner than 1mm, additional wideness come, so, rail + space + rail on my model is 1+5+1 mm 
 
Admiral calls for dinner, so it will continue later ...
 
Extension ...
 
 
Ahhhh
 
My favourite ...
 
 

 
+
 

 
+
 

 
=
 

 
( Bob, you must try this : spinach, poached eggs, fried eggs on bread and milk )
 
Back to the Cutty
 
Where I stopped ? ( Full belly empthy mind)
 
Oh, yes
 
And when upper part of bulwark raised to 6-7 mm, Campbell plans can not be applied, because by them to keep in scale, planks had to be 5-6 mm wide, and I think it is to much
 
Looking at the pictures, I noticed that planks are little narrower than the space between rails, so, if space is 4,5-5 mm, than planks have to be 3-3,5 mm, and it looks (for me) right in scale by photos
 
Here are some photos to compare space between rails and planks, and wideness of planks with the hull
 



 
Next question - length of planks. In C-plans, there is nothing about it ( or I am blind)
 
In pictures, it is not clear, and to me it seems that place of composition of planks in same line is not visible because thick layer of black paint
 
That is my idea, to fill composition with putty or with wood dust on edges of planks in same line, and when black paint cover it ... I think it will be OK
 
 
 
 
 

Finished first side of hull, move to another, and good progres
 
 
God, I start dreaming this little things ... 
 
Cut,glue,cut,glue, line up, cut, glue, line up, cut ..... little booooring ... Fortunately, after this, there is left only one big planking job in front of me (main deck)
 
Edit: I forgot four boats !!!! And "roofs" of deck houses  !!! 
 
Another overeaten day (Christmas lunch). Hapiness is that in couple of days I ll start to work. If this eating situation continue, I soon could not pass through garage door (joke.. 190 cm and 95 kg with 55 years is not much ).
 
Here is new look and feel of CS
 

 

 
This days I managed to rescale C-planss to scale of my CS, and doing some compares
 
Bow and the stem must be corrected later when finish planking of second layer. Curvatures of bow and stem on Tehnodidakta plans are wrong. Holder of Nannie is also wrong ...
 
I hope to finish planking about 7-10 days, then to prelinimary paint it black, and in mean time to start finding somewhere in Belgrade Zinc foil for "coopering" 

Planks Close Encounters (of the Third Kind)

Thank-you to everyone for the kind words and support. The shipyard was quiet for a while, but lately I found the time and desire to make sawdust again.
 
Now on to the update.
 
I managed to cut the curved railings at the bow from a half dowel that I had first hollowed with some of my carving tools, and then installed them.
 

 

 
I used some brass wire, which I coiled, cut, and flattened, for the outer face of the round gun ports.
 

 

 
The railings are finished, as well as one of the stern decorations.
 

 
The flash was a little extreme in this photo and as a result the blue appears much brighter than it really is.

 
And this is where she stands at the moment.
 

 

Finished up the after cabin tonight except for the ship's bell. I will install the bell just before rigging so I don't have to worry about knocking it off or bending it.
 
It's kind of hard to see but the skylight is cut out and I installed a piece of blackened wood covered in packing tape to simulate the glass. I was originally going to use a window from an envelope and let you see into the skylight a bit but that didn't look very good as I made the skylights too close to the frame and there wasn't enough glue area to attach the clear plastic
 
All that's left for the after cabin is to coat it in wipe on poly and glue it to the deck. It's pretty exciting to see parts being attached to the deck after so much work!