Elia

Hello all, again - very little done on the O19 today.  Just a little more paint touch-ups.  I'll also need to redo the load nummers, they are too high.  Fortunately I have enough of them so there is no problem.
I didn't take any pics of the decals being placed on the model for that very reason.  After that's done I'll put the edge sealer on the decals and then maybe take a few pics of her.
 
There is still plenty little piddl'n stuff to do before we can truly call the model completed.  I need to make one torpedo from aluminum rod so the loading sling looks like it has some weight on it.  Thanks for pointing that out.  Then I need to make the boarding ladder, hinges for the mine bun lid, new flags and the dingy.  My real challenge will be to make a few members of the crew.  I'll start with my father of course and at a scale of 1:50 he would be about 35 mm.  That seems about right when looking at the photo where he is standing next to the con.  I like to place him in the "bathtub" or the bridge with another figure.  This can always be done after the model is completed.
 
I also cleaned up my build dock and put new paper on the board, it looks neater that way 
 
Okay, we had a little discussion about the railing and I went to my photo archive and dug up a bunch of photos with the O19 having railings.  I mainly used the official Wilton-Feijenoord drawings for my railing.  It shows the railing and from where to where it was placed.   I may have to remove a few stanchions on the aft deck when taking a closer look at the photos.  This is okay, no problem.  Looks like the builder deviated from the plans.
 
The railings were still on the boat on her voyage to the Netherlands East Indies from Holland in 1939.  I have two pics with the O19 in Alexandria, Egypt, one of her stops for fuel.  Before arriving in Alexandria though they performed magnetometer tests in the Mediterranean Sea, submerged.  This shows that the O19 did go submerged for quite some time with the railings installed.  Unless, as Freek pointed out, they removed them and stowed them before diving.  Seems like a lot of work each time she comes up and goes down again.
 
In any case, the reason for my model is to show how the boat actually looked like with everything on it, including the things that may be temporarily stowed for underwater cruising.  Obviously they wouldn't load torpedoes, have the AA guns out or the dingy out and neither the boarding ladder.  It's for static display and show and tell 
 
I hope all yuns don't mind me having the railings on a submarine 
 
Let me add a few pics for you to see a submarine with railings 
 

This is the official drawing from WF.  Here you can see from where to where the railing runs.  On the last photo below of the commissioning in 1939, you can see that they didn't run the railing as far back as the drawing shows.  Well, one more small alteration to make.  Yes, the drawing still shows the original identification number, K XIX, which was changed to O 19.
 

This picture shows the O19 docked and presumably in the Navy base Den Helder sometime in 1939.  Here you can see the railing stanchions.
 

This shows the O19 in Alexandria, Egypt on her way to the Netherlands East Indies in July, 1939.  The railing is clearly visible here.
 

Here is another photo of the O19 in Alexandria, Egypt on July 1939.  The railing is clearly visible.  Yes, it was common practice to span tarps over the deck for shade.
 

This is a picture of the O19 going out to sea for proving runs.  My father was on board for each one of course.  Oh, I remember one hair-raising story he told us about what happened on one of these proving runs    Shudder, shudder.
 

I may have shown this one before but this is a photo of the commissioning of the O19 on July 3, 1939.  My mother, sister and I were there to witness the event.  I have annotated the picture where it shows my mother holding my hand  but my sister and I are hidden by the Geus, the flag at the bow.  Hey, I was only 5 years old then but I still remember quite a bit, it must have made a big impression on me, I guess     Remco directed me to a website where I copied newspaper articles about the commissioning where my father's name is mentioned.  This was his third trip to the colonies.  Oh, sweet memories
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Hello again.  This morning I took the bull by the horns and removed all the old decals.  If I have to repaint the effected areas then so be it.  As it turned out I only had to repaint both sides of the con and the starboard bow.  The paint on the con was discolored under the decals and with placing one before,  the paint just looked terrible because i used a brush to repaint it.  Just a sanding with some fine sandpaper, then wiping with a damp rag with enamel paint thinner, masking the area and shoot with a few coats of enamel paint.  
 
Sorry Remco, I was going to send you a personal message regarding this but got so wrapped up with this that it was your bedtime by the time I finally had a minute.  Had to help Gwen too, well you understand how that goes.  
 
It only took an hour or so and I now have a good looking finish for the decals.
 
As the paint was drying I started to paint the railing stanchions and could only complete the starboard side.  The port side will come tomorrow and then I need to give the railing cable a coat of dark grey paint.  I have no clue what color they used way back then but the dark grey may off-set it nicely with the light grey.
 
I made a few before and after pics of the repainting project for my own records and archive.
 

This shows the masking off of the forward part of the bow.  I could use the hull plating lines to prevent a paint ridge.  I have added three coats of enamel paint.
 

This shows the masking of the con.  Here I could not  prevent a paint ridge at the aft end but it worked out that the very thin ridge kinda looks like a weld seam. 
 

Here I have just removed all the masking.  This pic was taken with flash and it shows the ridge at the red bottom and a few specs I need to address yet.  I want the paint to dry and harden for a few days before i can work with it.  It looks very good op close and I'm happy.
Yes Andy, the nav lights or side light as you call them, will get their correct colors and perhaps a lamp too.
 

Here is the con with all masking removed.  Both sides look very good, better then before I must say.  The sanding helped smooth it out quite nice.
 
Now comes the tricky part, putting the decals on - - - correctly! 
 
Cheers,
 
 

Thanks to everyone who visited and your like votes and all those who commented.
 
Hi Andy,    Okay, it's dyslexia I tell you, dyslexia you understand- - - and I'm sticking to that excuse            Hey, stupid is as stupid does.  Thanks for the find.  It'll be fixed tomorrow morning.
 
Hoi Remco, thanks for the compliment and re the decals?  They are history my friend.  I removed all the old decals this morning.  The only areas I needed to repaint were the con.  The decals kinda bleached the paint underneath, so I just sanded it down with extra fine sandpaper, masked it out and resprayed it.  I did the same with the starboard bow section.  The port bow and both sides on the stern are okay.  I'll let the enamel paint cure for a day or so before I put the new decals on.
 
Hi Wacko Joe, that's a very nifty way of remembering what's port and what's starboard.  That doesn't work in Dutch though   Hmmmm, can I use that for an excuse - - - nah, I'll stick with dyslexia - - - to safe face    
 
Hello Harvey, good seeing you here again and thanks for the compliment.  Yup, the torpedo that's hanging in the sling is from wood and is a little light.  Actually, I'm way ahead of you.  I just happen to have purchased an aluminum rod for that purpose.  I'll be making an aluminum torpedo to hang in that sling so it'll look more realistic.  The wooden ones are for display on the final display board with some other stuff     I already have two torpedoes loaded in the deck launcher.
Hmmm, that means that the dingy may also be too light.  ummm, a brass dingy???? 
 
Hi Piper Joe, thank you for the compliment and you are always welcome here in my shipyard.  Yes, I like to think that my father would approve of the model.  Of course there are a few folks here who have helped in this effort and also keeping me straight on errors.
 
Well hello Andrieke, it's so good seeing you here, we missed you greatly.  We even send an APB out to find you.  Looking forward to updates on your build.  Thank you for the compliments my fiend.  Stay well.
 
Hi Popeye, thank you for the compliments, appreciate it very much.
 
Hello Michael, thank you as well and also for the URL.  I may just buy a few items from them.  Some of the things I didn't make because it's just too difficult and time consuming can still be replaced with store-bought parts to enhance authenticity.  As I mentioned in several posts, I strived to making everything myself or have friends make them, rather then buying parts from vendors.  It's perhaps my stubborn streak in using only "homemade" parts.  Raw material is of course understandable.  
 
Hoi Hans, van harte dank voor de compliment - - you are most kind.
 
Hallo Sjors - - Piet op de O19 rapporteert, over.  Hell Sjors, Piet on the O19 checking in, do you read?  
Thank you my friend, she's slowly taking shape. 
 
Hi Pete, thank you !!!
 
Hello Dave, also my thanks to you for your kind words.  Yes, it was / is indeed a fun and challenging build.  There's still a lot more planned for her, we are not done yet but those things will be on the back burner.  
 
Cheers to all,

Hello friends,
 
I have been quietly and slowly working on the O19.  I finished the starboard railing, which worked out better then the port side.  At least I didn't have to go back and redo two stanchions    All of them are as close to being correct as possible, at least I'm happy with the results.
 
Then it was off to installing the sense antenna.  This one is laced to a steel cable that runs from the port side of the con to the bow and back to the starboard side.  
I used 0.2 mm brass wire for the support cable and stretched it to make it harder and stiff.  I had already made the bow attaching hook a few months ago but now I had to put both ends of the support cable into the hook assembly and solder them.  I also cut a bunch of 1 mm brass tubing into 0.5 mm pieces to act as simulated tension devices.  (sorry Amateur Jan, just simulated  )  The antenna cable tensioners I used when I was running an aircraft repair facility were some ver nifty gizmos.  The were internally spring loaded and the cable is attached at one end and the other end to the airframe.  
 
These were all soldered to the support cable at their appropriate locations per the drawings I have.  I took the finest black sewing thread for the actual antenna cable and laced that to the support cable at set intervals.  The lacing cords I made up from splitting the sewing thread and used the two nylon filaments inside the tread.  This is thinner then fly-tying thread and strong too. 
 
I used clear nail polish to secure the lacing to the support cable with the antenna cable and tried to leave a few sagging like loops.  In real life the weight of the antenna cable will sag naturally between the lacings.
 
Well, it looks like that most of the hard work is done except for painting the railing and general paint touch-up, the replacement of the ship's numbers, the boarding ladder and the dingy.  
Remco was able to obtain new white numbers with black outlines that are printed on clear decal paper.  I am mighty obliged to him for his help.  He was not happy himself with the color mismatch and now I can just put these new decals right over the paint, awesome        
 
That'll be my next project before painting.  I don't know how much damage I may occur by removing the decals.  I did already spray them with a sealer so soaking with water may not work.  But then again, touching up paint is not a big problem for me.  After I'm done no one will ever notice
 
Okay, here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the antenna installation and the starboard railing.  Emphasis is on the antenna.  The details I mentioned above may be visible when you enlarge the picture.  We can now find our way by using radio beacons or low frequency broadcast stations.  On the last picture you'll see the DF antenna.
 

I made a close-up for a more detailed look at where the support cable is attached to the torpedo loading boom bridge.  Those two and three little humps are the tensioners.
 

This is a detail pic of the con side antenna hoop-up.  You can see where the antenna cable is routed through a conduit down to the radio / navigation room.  That round black thingy is the Direction Finder antenna or DF for short.  It works real well after you get used to it, "flying the nul" as we called it.  When I learned to fly I learned how to operate it and of course the VOR.  Things have evolved to Satellite Navigation and now to GPS.  But when my father sailed on this boat this was the best available with "shooting the sun or the stars."
 
If anyone sees anything that needs attention or fixing please tell me now or forever hold your peace 
 
Cheers, 

Hi all.  The latest photos of Ingomar are as follows; mainly featuring the steering wheel and binnacle.
 
Michael, Jeff and Bob - I took the cheats way out and used a Swarovski crystal for the multi-faceted binnacle glass from the local jewellery/sewing shop that my wife frequents.  It was almost the right size and shape.  At about a millimetre high, I think it looks passable.  Thanks for your help and suggestions.
 
The steering wheel is made from plastic tubing and fine brass wire for the spokes.
 
Other photos will feature the ship's davits, which need painting and blocks added.  The ship's boats, themselves are also being sanded and painted (so pls excuse their rough finish at the moment).
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
All the best!

Good morning Tom.
 
Hopefully these two photos will help, the glue was first diluted just enough to be able to be squeezed out of a large diameter hypodermic needle #25 the needle needed to be filled a few times for each run. I was able to lay the needle in the v groove between the planks and drag the needle toward the stern while squeezing the glue out. It was nerve wracking for sure because I did not want to spill any. the glue shrank when it dried so there were at least three applications of glue. 
 

 
Once the glue was fully cured I used a cabinet scraper to remove the lumps and blobs.
 

 
I have to admit that mini me helped in the tight corners  
 

 
Michael

managed a little more work on the cradle this evening. the longitudinal beams 12x10 were cut from some clear fir and they were mortised into the cross beams.
 

 

 

 

 
The cutter is now supported by the new pads and is quite stable, more so than the former cradle.
 
Michael
 
 

Here is a little more progress. I managed to make the wheel box today. Not too bad, but it still needs some sanding now that I look at the hi res photos.
 
Russ

Hi Alfons,
 
Thanks!  I pretty much follow the steps I outlined in the articles and downloads section:  Making a Mast (or Yard) from Square Stock
 
http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-masts-and-yards.php
 
I have begun using a hand plane instead of the large file when shaping the octagonal sections, and on the smaller spars using a Michi 3/8" wide flat chisel.  Other than that it is just measuring with proprotional dividers or using tick strips to locate at given length locations the marking points for lines/curves which mark the octagon edges.  I find using a variety of ships curves helps to get flowing curves for shaping the spars.  Once the octagonal shape has been formed I usually just sand the 8 edges off using progressively finer grit sand paper.
 
To be honest - I find shaping a straight square stock strip (of bass wood, for instance) far easier than shaping a round birch dowel.  And once one has the done the process once or twice it really doesn't take that much time.
 
And to all those who've 'liked' my posts - thank you very much!
 
 
Elia

I started working on the funnels.  This proved different in that some of the ways of putting it together were a little varied.
The first thing was to cut it out and begin the assembly.



I was not happy with the stiffness of the material so I glued together a couple of plugs out of stock and wrapped the funnels around them.
The pipe was next.  This stuff needed extra care it was delicate even doubled over.  Once touched up it was glued on.




So far so good.
David B
 

At the moment I am lucid and able to think so I might be considered sane or normal.  The next thing was to work on the scaffolding.  This is when I really appreciate how delicate this stuff can be and taking very delicate cuts.  
The first thing was to identify and figure out out to do the job.


When getting this thin I was having trouble keeping everything stiff for a straight cut.  So most of it was done using straight edges.


The scaffolding in the front gave me the most problem in getting everything lined up. This involved quite  bit of trial and error until I was able to glue everything down.  I am also touching up the colors as I go.




So far so good.  
David B

I has the most trouble with the main turret wall.  The first time I glued it up it did not fit the base properly in trying to fix it I damaged it.  Fortunately I had scanned the plans earlier just in case,  This time I cut out the opening for the cannons.  The carriage was not acceptable and I redid it. Then I fitted everything and proceeded to put in the cannons.



Then to my surprise the main guns would not fit in their numbered occasions.  After some trial and error.  I found out that for some reason the print mislabeled the assemblies.  Once I reversed the locations I got a god fit.
David B

I then started working on the cannons.  This time even though I followed the plans and studied everything it was a bit tricky.
The first thing was cut out the main parts to build up the base'



Then I started on the barrels.  This is where I deviated a bit.  I was not happy using the card for the core to flimsy.  I took a toothpick and using Jim"s draw plate I brought it down to the right diameter and used that as a core.
After building them up I painted them watercolor.  I thought they were a great improvement.




David B
 
 

I have been lax lately so I better bring things up to date.  After making the 6" guns I glued them into place an assembled the Panzerdstan.



David B

The next item was the hull.  The sides were two parts each. The first thing was to cut them out and glue them together.
I used a piece of scrap on the back at the joint and a straight edge to make sure it was lined up properly.




Then I cut out and applied the accents.  This part was the nerve racking part where a steady hand and a sharp scalpel came in handy.




David B
 
 

I have been able to get some more into the Maine and was able to finish off the two cabins.
And here is where I found that rubbing alcohol can be your best friend. 
While fitting the roof of the forward cabin I noticed that the walls were not fully aligned.  By using a brush and a drop of rubbing alcohol I was able to reposition everything for a better fit.  Plus the alcohol evaporated quickly and did not stain or damage the material.  Once the roof was placed to my satisfaction I glued it down using a weight to hold it until the glue dried.  Then a little touch up with a brush and it is about as good as I can make it.
.






David B
 

Here is a little more progress. Got some time to work on some deck fixtures. There is still a good deal more fitting to be done. The corner joints on the hatch coamings still need some cleaning up and the coamings need to have their bottom edges cambered to match the deck.
 
Russ
 
 

Thanks to one and all for looking in and the kind words and all the likes.
 
Keith, The washers will be brass so there will still be a contrast colourwise. I could counter bore but then it would be harder to tighten the nuts without a special wrench. the finish is pretty durable for what it is a thin oxide coating at the surface of the metal. the only reason for quenching in oil it so that the steel doesn't rust. the oils is just left over drainings from adding 10 w 30 to the care engine. I always drain the oil into a glass jar for oiling the machines.
 
Michael

Thank you all for your comments and likes.
 
I was not happy with the way the brass square nuts were looking, so made the decision this morning to replace them with blued steel ones, this entails a bit more work but I prefer the results. the only thing is i also need to make the washers as well now because the nuts on the wood are not good practice.
 
The new steel nuts are first bored then the top surface is shaped with a file as the steel is spinning, then parted off and tapped in the vice, by tapping the nuts after they are parted off I can use the first tap only and there is very little clogging because the tap distance is short. after the nut is tapped then it is put onto a threaded mandrel and buffed. then while still on the mandrel it is heated through the tempering colours until the purplish  blue is reached then quenched in water and then oiled.
 

 
I added the leather to the wood blocks and also the retaining screws for holding the wood to the swivel plate.
 

 
There is a few more hours of making the nuts before moving on to the bow supports.
 

 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Bedford, Tom, Denis, thanks for your kind words. Al those who added likes thank you they are appreciated.
 
Tom the ends were making me cautious as well.
This ought to calm you down
 

 

 

 
Denis the idea of an adjustable slip actually seems like a great one, it had not occurred to me that way. There will be some leather wrapped over the wood block., I am pleased with the way they work. They are part of a new way of supp0rting the model to replace the little stand it is presently sitting on.
 
Denis there is definitely another build on the horizon. I have the plans for an 8 foot Shamrock V, by Rene Sarao of Nova  Scotia as one option.
 
Michael
 

Nils sorry I missed answering your question.  I have almost made up my mind to leave the cutter as a free sailing boat.
 
Set the sails and rudder and let her go.
Bob you nailed it.
 
Today was still cold it did get up to 5 degrees and the sun was shining for a bit this afternoon.
 
the new support cradle is refining up nicely, I made some 3/4 inch bolts with square nuts to begin assembling the structure the thread size is 3x48 the nuts were made by milling up a strip of 1/16 brass to .156 or 5/32 wide, then drilling a series of holes  tapping them and then cutting then off the strip with a jewelers saw. doing a final clean up with a file.
 
The first picture shows the more simple configuration with opposing verticals rather than pairs on both sides. the bottom timber is clear fir and 8 1/2 wide by 10 inches high the uprights are pine and are 6 inches x 2 inches these are full dimensions. there will be a further timber partnered next to the upright 6 x 2 closest to the camera this will have the swiveling pad that will be adjusted to fit up against the hull.
 

 
The second shows the bolts and the position at the stern
 

 
looking from the stern
 

 
Michael
 
 

Thank you all for your wonderful encouraging comments, and for the likes.
 
Since it was cold and snowing most of the day I started tidying up the shop I started at the pilot cutter bench which had been used for a while as a wide shelf while the cutter was on the launch trolley.
 
I cleaned and used some past floor wax on the bench then polished it up. After putting the cutter back up on the bench I decided I needed to make a different stand. so made a start on it.
 
It is more like a cradle that might be constructed in a yard than a fancy stand, I think it will be more effective and more solid, there will be some adjustable pads to seat against the hull. The stern cradle parts are the first ones, depending on the weather I might have a full day at the yard tomorrow
 

 

 
It was nice to get her up on the bench again.
 
Michael

Thank you for the likes.
 
Pete, I am melting a few weights every day now, and so far I am up to 25lbs.
 
Steve you are probably right, Apart from the Skipjack launch I am already thinking about the next cutter.
 

 
I felt like getting the trolly finished so worked on it today, it looks a little whimsical but I like the ergonomics of it.
 

 

 
it is a good height for moving to the water.
 

 
Now it just needs a coat of paint. and it will be ready for the cutter's next ballast test.
 
Michael

Thanks for all the likes.
I stopped by the tire store and showed the owner the pictures of the boat in the water and told him that I needed some more weight and could he sell me some more.
 
We went out to the balancing machine and he asked the chap if they had any used weights, yes they had a bucket. I backed up the van and the young lad put it into the van. I asked the owner how much did I owe him $30 dollars he said. When I got home I went to lift it out and was stopped dead in my tracks...the bucket weighs in at 90 plus pounds.
 

 
first thing was to rig up a mould.
 

 
after a quick sweep under the wire wheel the ingot cleans up nicely this one is 2 lbs
 

 
This will be a lot easier to place in the hull.
 
Michael
 
 

Omega, Daniel, John, Yambo, Nils, Grant, Steve, Andy, David, Bob, Edwin, Pete, Lextin, Mark Pearse, Mark Taylor, Druxey, and Denis.
Thank you all for your very encouraging remarks.
Andy said
Druxey said
This is why I have this.
 

 

 
I had anticipated that even 60lbs would need a trolly but I know that with the extra weight I will need to support the model properly as it enters and exits the water.
 
I am going to melt down the tire weights into some triangular section bar stock (Angle Iron mould) that will be more easily placed and removed from the hold., I need to go get some water today so will drop by the tire shop and see if I can get another bucket of used weights.
 
Lextin I do not want to have the issues that doing that would entail
 
Mark yes I agree, Scale finishes are something that we need to pay more attention too I think.
 
Michael