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Posts posted by Pete38
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I don't know it that is what they are saying or not, but in my opinion it would only be for small holes due to torque limitations and battery life.
As far as repairing your corded dremel if you are confident you can replace high speed bearings, I would go for it...but it seems the tolorence will be very close with little room for error.
Me, if the cost of repair is 50% or higher the cost of replacement...I just buy another....
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That is looking good,
Is there not a taper on that part as you progress down or am I seeing things? If so did you adjust the height of the sawblade each time?
Looking forward to more.
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Those are some very nice looking frames....and a lot of work done by hand.....
Very well done...
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David
I was looking for one of those about 2 weeks ago at my local Home Depot.....they did not carry them there..said sales were not enough to keep in stock.
Guess will have to go online to find one.
Is it working out okay?
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Guy
We will be here waiting for your progress, Work has a bad habit of getting in the way like that. I t just make the building time that much more enjoyable.
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Daniel
That is a nice drawing of the for and after plattforms, Will save that for later reference Thanks
As far as wood I like the choices you have done made, If Holly will be difficult how about a Silver Maple or Hard Maple (that is what they are called here)
Looking forward to hearing your choices and progress
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If you are going to treenail, then that is the time I would do it....While one frame is in the jig drying you can be installing treenails in the first. works out pretty good that way. (keeps you busy)
Also will strengthen the joint, whick is important.
Just don't do like I did on the first frame and get impatient and remove it to soon, best wait for awhile for the glue to set up sufficiently.
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The Janka scales I have seen have it rated at 1450, this is in relationship to White Oak at 1360 and bamboo at 1380
Hope this answers you question
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Paddy, I also use bamboo for the treenails seems to work out well for me.
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Bob--Daniel--Mark--Ron--Larry thank so much for looking in and comments
At this scale it is big for the cross section...have been thinking about a full build of something at this larger scale when this is done
not sure yet
As far as the noodle idea it literaly hit me over the head....while shopping in one on the nameless big box stores for grocery my daughter had picked one up out of the box and was playing around by hitting me on the head with it. When I turned around to take it from her the idea (excues the pun) hit me in the head. So I put it in my cart and brought it home.
You never know where you will be or what you are doing when an idea for you build hits you
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That will all depend on you budget and what you want out of it.
I have seen some for around 100 dollars us that will do what you want and a descent job....and I have seen them on the internet for over 2,000 dollars us
The 20 inch delta was $499.99 us delivered to my door. Has an air blower for the dust, a worklight mounted on the side, blade storage, toolless blade change, stand came with it and a very heavy cast iron table.
and a very nice tension adjustment right on top.
So get what you want the first time....after seeing some of your post in other threads (mill and such) you will do your research and find one right for you.
Good luck
PS you can see the 20 inch delta here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/788-which-scrollsaw/page-3
Any question just holler
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Very nice...great way to do it
Thanks for showing it.....
It is the person behind the tools that makes it look so good and easy
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Looks like a good start on your frames. No matter how long you think about a jig before you build it......it will always need modified
If you have some type of heavy weight that you could put on the frames while it is being glued might be one way. If you look at my build log here
that is the way I did it.......http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/71-triton-cross-section-132-pete-38/page-3
This is only one way and may not be the best.......whichever way work best for you is the best way to do it
Good luck and looking forward to your frame raising day
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Also check out this thread, http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/788-which-scrollsaw/
Lot of good information in there on scroll saws
And for scroll saw blades check this thread http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1028-scroll-saw-blades/
Good luck picking one
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Just recently bought a 20" Delta, and I am quite pleased with it so far.
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Great work Rusty, as said before clean , crisp joiints.
I hope mine look half as good when I get to that point
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Russ, thanks for dropping in.
I to have a collection of dowels and sticks and blocks with different sandpapers on them.
The noodle is big enough diameter for this scale that I don't sand flats in the frames and also it is very easy to hold on to, so my hands don't cramp.
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Thank you Paddy and Rusty for looking in and the comments...
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DUH.....am I slow. "What's my next build going to be" posted in your cross section log.
Looking good so far and looking forward to watching your full size build. Are you going the 1:48 scale?
Frames will look real nice with that maple.
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That looks great. Very nice work...What types of wood are you using?
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- aykutansin, isabuncu and fatih79
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Guess What???
IT'S NOODLE TIME
I bought this having an idea for something, not knowing wether it would work or not. So far it seems to be working fine..........
I cut a section of the noodle of and using 3M spray adhesive attached different sand paper to it. It can be change out easily with another if needed.
Here is the smaller 80 grit using it on the spacer after the drum sander on the dremel
Here is a slightly bigger one with 100 grit sandpaper. I cut an old broom handle and inserted it through the hole in the middle for better gripping.
This seems to work fine. With the bigger diameter of the noodle, I will have a better chance of not sanding flat in the frame sides.
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All the spacers are in and I have removed the section from the build board to easier sand.
In order to get the spacer down to size quicker I use my dremel with a drum sander attached. I was afraid to use the small one that came with it, (way to easy to sand to much to quick in one spot and ruin everything) So I took an old drum sander I had from years ago and turned the shaft down to fit the dremel. This one works a lot better at this scale.
Here it is before
Turning it down on my lathe
In the dremel ready to use. This is about a 1" dia drum
Using it, being very carefull, keeping the speed turned down so not to burn the wood or take to much off to quick
Battery Pwered Demel
in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Posted
Since I don't have one yet I will go with Andy on power and torque then. (he has used one
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