Pete38

Dave,
 
That is the way I set my frames on cross section build, using spacers and a right angle frame. Works out great....Good Luck

Pete:  I looked at your build when I was first planning this project and filed away your building technique for future reference.  I just reviewed your whole log and I plan to approach the build just as you did.  Hopefully my results will be as good as yours!

Dave,
 
That is the way I set my frames on cross section build, using spacers and a right angle frame. Works out great....Good Luck

Dave,
 
That is the way I set my frames on cross section build, using spacers and a right angle frame. Works out great....Good Luck

Hello some progress - gun deck is almost done..

After thinking about at work last night, you could make a template from some stiff paper(card) and get the desired taper by sanding and fitting, much the same way some people do on a solid hull...just a thought

As far as getting the taper, no trick that I know of just checking while sanding by eye.  The futtock...treenail or simulated bolts?  Comes down to how you want to do it yourself. Either way would look good and with yours being such a big scale the simulated bolts would look really nice, be much easier at this scale, but your choice.

Hi,
 
i haven't been able to spent as much time on the cross section as I like but I manage to do a bit here and there.
Sanding took a lot of time and was the only way I could find to give the hull the right shape.
Here how she look now...






in some places I didn't manage to get a good fit but still learning I guess...
 
Hugo

put the filters on the suction side of the fan and draw the air through them. That is what I do when sanding and seems to work pretty good. I just use a cheap window box fan.

put the filters on the suction side of the fan and draw the air through them. That is what I do when sanding and seems to work pretty good. I just use a cheap window box fan.

Love the way you done the base. Very well done on the build, and your log will come in so handy for future builders....and myself....on the triton.

After thinking about at work last night, you could make a template from some stiff paper(card) and get the desired taper by sanding and fitting, much the same way some people do on a solid hull...just a thought

If those frames are still in the rough with no fairing (sanding) yet...you have done an excellent job. From the looks there will be minimal sanding required. Great Job   

put the filters on the suction side of the fan and draw the air through them. That is what I do when sanding and seems to work pretty good. I just use a cheap window box fan.

Love the way you done the base. Very well done on the build, and your log will come in so handy for future builders....and myself....on the triton.

After thinking about at work last night, you could make a template from some stiff paper(card) and get the desired taper by sanding and fitting, much the same way some people do on a solid hull...just a thought

Thanks, Pete. That means a lot to me.
 
Tony

After thinking about at work last night, you could make a template from some stiff paper(card) and get the desired taper by sanding and fitting, much the same way some people do on a solid hull...just a thought

Love the way you done the base. Very well done on the build, and your log will come in so handy for future builders....and myself....on the triton.

A VERY SIMPLE BASE

Because this model really was just to learn and is nothing special compared with the other Triton builds, and will, in any case, be kept just to show grandchildren what the structures looked like, I decided to make as simple a base as possible.

As usual, my road came in handy. A neighbour was having his floorboards discarded, so I just picked a couple up. One of them became a base for my wife's doorstep plants, while the other was converted to use as base for the cross section. I planed it flat (or as flat as I cared to) and drilled four holes for 5mm perspex rods.

As the wood was very light, I varnished it with a polyurethane varnish. The colour is not quite right, but it was declared satisfactory by my wife who is the judge in all matters aesthetic.

I worked out the angle for the tops of the rods by using my TurboCAD tracings of the frames, and sanded the tops to the correct angle.
 


I left the heights of the rods so that the keel would be just above the base.



Although I may still apply another coat of my made-up Danish oil to the ship (unlikely), I've decided to end this log and call the model completed.
 
While we're in the throes of selling (with luck) our house, I'll now just concentrate on planning the next build -- a toss-up between Le Rochefort, Naiad,  Brixham Trawler Valerian and (outsider) La Jacinthe. I have the plans for all of these, but each has their attractions.

Thanks to everyone not only for their 'likes' and appreciation that have given me added motivation during this build and the Sherbourne, but also for the enormously kindly and generous advice which I've had in various ways to help me complete these builds. And yet again I congratulate those who designed and made the plans freely available for this really useful learning exercise.

Tony

If those frames are still in the rough with no fairing (sanding) yet...you have done an excellent job. From the looks there will be minimal sanding required. Great Job   

As far as getting the taper, no trick that I know of just checking while sanding by eye.  The futtock...treenail or simulated bolts?  Comes down to how you want to do it yourself. Either way would look good and with yours being such a big scale the simulated bolts would look really nice, be much easier at this scale, but your choice.

If those frames are still in the rough with no fairing (sanding) yet...you have done an excellent job. From the looks there will be minimal sanding required. Great Job   

If those frames are still in the rough with no fairing (sanding) yet...you have done an excellent job. From the looks there will be minimal sanding required. Great Job   

If those frames are still in the rough with no fairing (sanding) yet...you have done an excellent job. From the looks there will be minimal sanding required. Great Job