vaddoc

Time to rig the mast.
Before rigging the mast, the pulley of the tabernacle must be rigged. The halyard for erecting the mast has already been split at the fixed part of the hoist and must now be passed through the sheaves at the bottom of the mast.
 

The mast is supported on both sides with two shrouds and dead eyes.
The dead eyes are tuned on the lathe from a piece of hard wood.
 

 

 

 

 

I use my proven hinge method to drill the holes in the right places.
 

 

Finishing:
 

And varnishing
Making the strops

 

 

The dead eyes in place.
 

The mainsail is attached to the mast with slugs that run over a rail. To make the rail I solder two brass strips together. One with a flat profile on top and one with a square profile. It's hard to see in the picture but the drawing next to it shows what I mean.

 

The rail is then glued to the mast.

Making the slugs is another matter. For some of you that is a piece of cake, but first I had to think about the method to follow. Finally I solved it like this: I saw off one side of a brass square tube with the same internal dimension as the rail.

Then I knocked the raised edges of the tube flat around a strip like the rail.

 

Next I saw a slit in the slammed side.

I saw my slug profile into pieces and also make small brass rings.

When I solder both together, I have a slug.

A slug on the rail.

All slugs on the rail.

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your constructive comments.
 
Till soon!

4. Mast
To make the mast, I first saw a square stick to the appropriate length. Here it stands in the tabernacle:

At the bottom of the mast step there are three slots in which the sheaves for the mast raising pulley come.

The mast is made in the same way as the jib boom. First I scrape it into an octagonal shape and then I sand it around.

The top of the mast narrows in two steps. I make the tapers using the lathe.

Fitting the mast in the tabernacle.

I sand the mast step around where the sheaves have to be placed.

 

The sheaves:

The mast, ready to be varnished. Two more sheaves are incorporated in the top and two mouse cleats have been fitted.

The mast on the model:
 

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your constructive comments.
 
Till soon!

These are indeed good news Hakan! Hopefully you ll be on the mend in no time at all. Your boat also seems to be progressing  very well. I am very impressed that you can create a three dimensional fair hull from just 2D plans, I am really looking forward to see how all will come together.
I presume you will use birch for the planks? What wood did you chose for the frames?
 
Vaddoc

After the bowsprit is varnished and dry, it can be rigged.
In addition to the securing tap in the bits, the bowsprit is also held in place with a metal ring over the bow.

 

Before rigging the bowsprit, the jib traveler must first be made and placed.

 

 

The bowsprit is also supported by three pulley systems, one amidships, one on the port side and one on the starboard side. I suppose pulley systems are used here to allow for trimming the bowsprit for each regatta.
For the midship pulley system, a double block is placed just above the waterline on the bow.

a line with a noose over the top of the bowsprit and with a single block at the other end forms the second part of the pulley.

The rigging of the midship pulley.
 

In addition to the midship pulley, the jib boom is also supported on the left and right by a pulley. The hoist is attached to the hull to an eye plate bolted to the wale.
Making the eye plate:

 

 

 

 

Rigging of the side pulleys:
 

 

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your constructive comments.
 
Till soon!

3. Bowsprit (jib boom)
The bowsprit is made of pine wood.
I start from a square piece.

I scrape it into an octagonal shape first ...

 

... and then sand it into round shape.

The very top of the bowsprit ends in a short thin part.

just behind that a slot is made in which the sheave for the jib traveler will be placed.

The bowsprit must be bent. So I wet it and place it in a simple jib for a few days to keep its curved shape.

The heel of the bowsprit ends in a tap ...

... which secures it in the bits.

The sheave to operate the jib traveler.

On top of the bowsprit comes a mouse cleat.

Fitting the bowsprit.
 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your constructive comments.
 
Till soon!

Chapter II. Spars and rigging
 
1. Blocks
To rig this clipper d'Argenteuil a certain amount of single blocks in three sizes is needed. There is no general inventory of the amount of each kind of blocks which will be used. That will become clear during the rigging, therefore I will make a dozen blocks of each size and kind. If there are more needed, I can always make some more later.
I start with making the sheaves for de blocks.

To make the single block, I start with a thin strip of mahogany.

I glue blocks of mahogany on it at equal intervals.

Above that comes another strip of mahogany.

The method is identical for double blocks, only a thin strip of mahogany veneer is added between the two parts.

Drilling holes for the shaft of the sheaves.

The next step is cutting individual blocks from the glued strips.

Now every block is filed into shape.
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The sheaves are placed in it with a copper shaft.

 

 

The last thing to do: file a groove for the noose.

Now I have a small supply of blocks of each size. They are about the same size as on the plan, but I can't manage to make them as thin.

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your constructive comments.
 
Till soon!
 

Last thing to make: the tiller.
The tiller is made of metal. I saw the strip that I need from a 3 mm thick copper plate that is laying already for many years somewhere in my workshop.

I file the strip in the desired shape.

 

 

My tiller is now shaped but still straight, like this it cannot pass over the cockpit coaming. The tiller must be bent.
Therefore I make a wooden mold.

I heat the tiller to soften the metal.

I place the tiller in the mold and clamp it in my workbench.

 

The result: my tiller now has an elegant upward bend.

 

The rudder head soldered to the tiller.

The tiller on the rudder stock.

I believe I can close the second chapter of my log with this. Next time we will start with chapter III: Spars and rigging.
 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes.
 
Till soon!

Thanks for all the kind comments Patrick, Hakan and Keith. Thanks also all who liked.
This week I laid the deck.
 
18. Laying the deck
The deck is made of mahogany, the caulking between the deck planks are ebony strips.
I make first the waterways. To determine the shape I turn the model upside down and draw the contours of the wale on a mahogany plank.

Then I draw the shape of the water way with a pencil with the help of French curves.

Fitting the sawn water way on the model.

Gradually the complete waterway takes shape.

 

 

I glue a strip of ebony on the inside of the water ways.

Gluing the waterways into position.

 

Preparing the deck planks with a strip of ebony, a bit thinner than those on the waterways

I scrape the ebony strip to almost equal thickness as the planks and plane the whole then to 1.5 mm thickness.

 

I start to lay the deck at midship on the after deck where I have the longest straight uninterrupted line.

Then it is just gluing plank after plank.

 

 

 

Drilling holes for the tree nails.

The three nail are toothpicks saturated with black stain.

 

 

 

The deck is laid, scraped and sanded.

 

 

After being varnished.
 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your comments.
 
Till soon!
 

16. After deck beams
Time to finish the deck beams behind the bulkhead.
The deck beams round the helm port are reinforced with some carlings.

The last deck beams are laid.
 

 

Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your comments.
 
Till next week!

The mast step holds also the goose neck fitting.
Sawing a piece of brass plate for the fitting.

The goose neck fitting is attached to the mast step with four heavy screws. Imitating those screws:
-Drilling four screw holes and knocking a brass nail in each of them.

- Cutting the nails and filing them flat.

 

- Sawing a (screwdriver)groove in each of the screws.

- Soldering a piece of brass pipe on it as goose beck holder.

 

The goose neck fitting attached to the step of the mast (The pale piece of wood at the bottom is a temporary spacer).

In front of the mast stand bits. They consist of a fork shaped piece of ebony.

Filing the heads of the bits

 

The bits are placed against the second forward deck beam.

To allow the mast to tilt freely from vertical to horizontal position, the lower part must be able to pass through the deck. An opening is provided for this in the foredeck.
The carlings for the opening:

Round the opening come small coamings. A bit hard to see on the picture.

Just behind the mast stand two sheet bits with each thre sheaves to guide the sheets to the holes in the front of the cockpit coaming.
I laminate the bits from three thin ebony slats to obtain a straight groove for the sheaves

The cap of the sheet bits also contains two sheaves and must be folded into shape.

 

 

 

The arrangement of mast step and bits.

The whole will not yet glued definitively in the hull at this stage.
 
Thank you very much for reading this log, for your likes and for your comments.
 
Till next week!
 

I do not use glue for the planks Allan, I initially screw the planks on the frames with 1 mm screws and then replace the screws with treenails (dipped in PVA). These clamps will not dent the wood, this is 2 mm beech which is very hard but even with the softer maple, denting has never been an issue. 

I start this week with finishing the coaming area. The attachment points of the coaming to the deck beams are reinforced with knees.

At each side of the coaming come five short deck beams. The notches for the dove tails of the beams were already cut before the round beam clamp was glued to the coaming.

The coaming with the port beams glued.

Fitting the coaming on the model. I will wait to glue it definitively until all deck beams with accessories are made.

I have been continuously spilling and planking for the last 12 months, maybe the following thread might be of help.
 

Fitting the coaming. In the beam round the coaming the dove tails notches for the deck beams are already made.

At the front of the coaming is a shelf that serves as a pin rail. Making the pin rail.

 

In front of the pin rails there are passage holes through the coaming for the halyards and sheet. They are protected against scouring with a piece of brass pipe.

 

Gluing the pin rail.

...and re-fitting the coaming.

Now the coaming can be varnished. Note that there are also two extra pin holders in the coaming. In the photo you can see the starboard one.
 
Thank you very much for reading this log, for your likes and for your encouraging reactions.
 
Till next week!

11. Thwart
The outsides of the thwart are laying on a rising. The risings are made of ebony.

More to midship the thwart is supported by support beams.  The two front beams do not run the full width of the hull, but are interrupted in the middle. I leave them whole for the sake of working for now.
With the bottom boards (center board case removed):

Without the bottom boards:

The support beams rest on a strut. Making a template to saw the strut.

The forward struts placed provisionally.

The rear support beam runs from side to side and is supported in the middle by a pillar. Turning the ebony pillar with the lathe.

The three support beams with pillar and struts. I repeat: the two forward beams will be interrupted in the middle.

The thwart will be made of mahogany, I make a template to saw it out. Determining the shape of the hull sides. First at one side:

 

 

then also the other side:

I draw the shape of the thwart on the template with the help of an improvised light box.

Here the thwart is glued and sawn. Fitting it.

I want to finish the curved inside of the thwart with a thin frame. To give the frame its curved shape, I make an improvised bending iron. I secure a can on the workbench and aim the paint burner in the can. The wet frame can now easily be bent round the can into the desired shape in two directions.

 

The frame is now glued in place on the thwart.

The center of the two front support beams is now cut away.

 

Fitting the finished thwart. Nothing (neither bottom boards nor thwart) is glued yet.
 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for for your likes.

This week, I varnished the hull. It took a week to do so because I had to give five or six layers before I was happy with the result. Between every layer the  hull was sanded with fine sand paper.

Sanded between two varnishes.

A new layer laid.

 

 

 

 

It is always a bit dark in the workshop, therefore some pictures in the living room where the light is better.

 

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes.
 
Till next week!

8. Floor timbers
The hull is now liberated from the building board, the inside is free accessible to work in it.  This week I am making the floor timbers.
The floor timbers are not only reinforcements for the hull, but most of them are also the base for the bottom boards. That means that their bottom must have as much as possible the shape of the inside of the hull and that the top of those on which will lay the bottom boards must be at equal and correct height to form stabile base for the boards.
To determine the inside shape of the hull where the floor timbers will be placed, I use a piece of thick solder.

That can be pressed in hollow shape of the hull.

I trace the shape onto stiff paper for both sides and cut them out. I glue them together with another piece of stiff paper just on top of the keelson (red marking, I was a bit lazy in making pictures). A vertical lath, attached to a horizontal lath which can be moved along the hull at a constant height helps to determine the height of the floor timber.

The floor timber can now be sawn ...

... fitted and glued.

 
All floor timbers placed.

 
Thank you very much for reading this log, for your likes and for all your kind reactions.
 
Till next week!
 

The hull can now be removed from the building board. Better to say the building board can now be dismantled from below the hull.

It is feather light.

 

 

The hull, sitting in its new chair:



 


 

Hi guys,
Quick status update.
Over the last weeks I've been preparing framing.
That meant, 
1. Finish the centreline structure
2. Print the framing plan for the shipway and all plans for the frames
3. Build and mount the slanted keel support
4. Glue the plan to the shipway
5. Build end supports to hold the ends (no duh 😄)
6. Prepare wood for the frames
 
Bullet one was fairly quick since the only parts missing were the fashion pieces. After some trimming they aligned with one another.
Bullet two was really easy. Got that done before I went on 100% sick leave.
Bullet three took some time. However, I didn't really think it through since I mounted the keel support prior to gluing the plan on the shipway. I had some challenge in getting the plan at the correct place in correlation to the keel. But what would building scale model boats be without a challenge or three??
Anyway, I solved it so now the plan and the keel are on par with each other.
The plan I glued with spray glue after carefully masking off all adjacent surfaces of the shipway.
Finally, the stem and stern supports. Inspiration was taken from EdT:s Najad build vol 1, where he describes both the shipway as well as supports and other stuff.
And finally finally, the most time consuming task, milling timber to scale thickness. I have yet to decide whether to use birch or apple. Probably I will do a couple of test frames. In calling them "test frames" I hide the issue of redoing stuff. Clever huh?
 
After all this text, some pictures.

(don't mind the background mess)
 

 
And Karsten is happy as Larry (just learnt that expression 🙂)

1.2.                   Frame lofting party
All Atlantica’s frames are double from sawn timber. All necessary details can be found in the construction drawing.

 
From the latest lines plan, create a copy and start by removing all station lines from it. Instead put in new station lines corresponding to the given distance for frames. On older drawings usually called room and space. Room is the space the frame occupies lengthwise and Space is the distance between two frames. In the detail above the room would be 210 mm and space 450 – 210 = 340.
 
 
To get consistency throughout I copied the entire center structure from my Construction keel plan. That way everything matches up with timbers and deadwood. On the keel plan I also had already marked where most frames would be. A bit of cleaning up was needed to get rid of some surplus lines.
I used the rectangle tool to create the first double frame and then did a linear copy to create the lot. Then a lot of trimming and numbering and I’m all set.

 
One thing missing from the construction plan are details about futtocks. That is the members of the frames. There is no clear evidence in the book either apart from them using quite few futtocks for each frame. From what I can gather from all pictures no more than maybe 6 members for each double frame.
 
The practice seems to be to mirror the futtocks for each half of the frame. That is my best bet and it will also limit the number of members in total.

 
As a practice run I lofted the widest frame, no 22 it turned out to be. Red depicts the aft face of the aft members and blue depicts the forward face of the forward members of the frame. The grey line is waterline 8 which is also the actual waterline and it is marked out for being a good reference point when mounting the frames. The taper or siding is also a bit of guess work and what looks good. The top and bottom ends are given by circumstances but the taper in between is just been shapely made up.

 
 
After a couple of more practice runs I started creating frames from aft working on forward. A decision was also made to omit frames that did not have stanchions on them bar the aft 10 frames. They will all be done. The reason for this is to reduce the labour of framing the ship on my behalf.
The process of drawing the frames are quite straight forward as described in Wayne’s treatise. Simply, on the sheer plan, construction lines are set at 
every crossing between a futtock line and station/frame line. The futtock line describes a curve. On the half breadth plan a construction line is set at every crossing between a water line and station/frame line. These two sets of construction lines converge in the body box. Then it is a matter of tracing these intersections and voilá, you have a frame line.
I take the liberty of a screenshot from Wayne’s treatise to show the setup of plans. It will give you an idea of how it works with construction lines and all that jazz.

 
 
Of course all this takes place after the plans have been faired. Nevertheless, bumps appear when the frames are lofted. It is hard to have plans 100% faired for all station, water and futtock lines. Take it as sanding margin.
After all frames are lofted comes the work with exploding them into separate members for templates to use when cutting timber. I choose to put most members on separate sheets. Every sheet has the centreline and waterline marked for easy adjustment and lining up when building. All 36 frame sheets are shown in the screenshot below. Size is A4 for easy printing.

 
As can be seen in the screenshot above, three colours are used.
Green is used for the aft most face of the frame. Red is used for the middle face of the frames. Remember, each frame is double. Apart for the frames in the middle of the ship where the red is omitted due to the small or little bevel on these frames. Blue is used for the forward face of the frame.  
The templates are printed to be glued on the forward face of the forward frame pieces and on the aft face of the aft frame pieces. Hence the aft templates are mirrored for this purpose.
Since I had the CAD up to speed, work continued on the frame plans for the shipway or building board. I have understood that it simplifies greatly to have the ship built upon a framing plan. Then it is a matter of setting the gantry on the frame line in question. The keel and centreline structure needs to sit firmly in place on the shipway though.
Here is a screenshot of the framing plan.

 
For my own convenience it is printed on three, size A3 papers. As it happens there is an A3, colour printer at my work... what a coincidence.
Each frame is numbered and there is an additional line where the keel ends. Also in this plan can be seen the gaps where frames were left out.  One might wonder why there is a gathering of frames at no 30-35. That is because the main mast goes there and more stanchions are needed for the pin rails. The same goes for frames six through ten.
 
With all this work done some building can take place. Next item up for drafting is the deck structure with deck beams, carlings, hatches and bitts and stuff. 
 
Thank you if you read all the way here. I hope all this text makes at least some sense. 
 
Til next time, ta!

Well Keith, as the caption clearly states: "De två timmermännen har spikat upp långa lister, även de kallas sänt, som visar hur bordläggningens plankor kommer att löpa. .."
Can't really understand what is hard to get about that 😄 
What they actually are doing is figuring out the run of the planks and that there is some wood to fasten the ends to. The stern frames are bolted to the stern timber and then the filling pieces are bolted sideways into the stern frames.
Anyway, it will be fun when I get there...

Definitely a challenge. I see that coming too.
A lot templates I guess. 
Pictures from the book on the real thing gives me guidance. They almost fill the entire stern with timbers to have the planks to meet timber at all times.
Templates.

 
Ready for planking. All timbers are in.

 
Waiting for the first planks to steady the hull.

So, this is where I'm at now.
Full set of cards... or frames rather. 31 of them.
I will shortly put together a more elaborate post about the progress, but just thought I had to share the progress with you.
I scrapped the 5-6 frames I already did a good while back to get to a working flow. And it payed out. Using different colors for aft, middle and front phase as well as setting the frame in question in a bright color (cyan) helped to keep track of where in the process I was.

 
Next up will be to explode each frame into separate members and organizing them on A4 for printouts. 
 
Thanks for likes and comments! Always appreciated.
Til next time, ta!

Thank you guys for your support 🙂 
The yard will be quiet for some time now. Reason? Well, now that I've (almost) figured out the tricky stern section it is back to the drawing board.
On the agenda is framing and decking. I also have to admit that it will not be a fully framed model. Instead it will be ca 66% framed model. Apologies if that brakes any ones heart.
I have had some thoughts about framing and whether do go for bulkheads instead of built up frames and if built up frames would be the choice, how much detail do I put in?
The plan has 47 frames. To not bore myself to death I have come to the conclusion to fully frame the stern and then only go for the frames that have bulwark stanchions attached. That will reduce the tediousness down to 31 frames. This will still give me plenty of options for scale length planks in regards to fastening. 
What about internal members of the hull? Well, since I'm looking forward to the deck build an obvious choice is the sheer clamp (that's what it's called, right?). And that will be it, I think.
Initially I planned on going for apple for the frames. But I realize now, that if I do I will spend the rest of my life trying to fair the hull 😄 it.is.super.hard.
So birch it is bar the stanchions, they will be apple.
Here a screenshot of where I am at the moment. Frame 14. Ten frames done of which six are visible in the picture. I can quite easily explode the frames into members. In the real build each pair of frames consist of eight pieces plus the stanchions. I will probably cheat here and go for four plus the stanchions. Unless nature calls for more pieces like the double curved or so. We will see.

 
Tomorrow I'm in for a refill of the chemo. It will be the third of four doses and hence I'm halfway through this experience. Can't wait to be through it all together.
That's all for now.
Cheers!