Jump to content

G.L.

Members
  • Posts

    1,482
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About G.L.

  • Birthday 02/28/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Belgium
  • Interests
    Ship modeling, historic shipbuilding, reading, gardening and bicycling

Recent Profile Visitors

3,294 profile views
  1. Fitting the coaming. In the beam round the coaming the dove tails notches for the deck beams are already made. At the front of the coaming is a shelf that serves as a pin rail. Making the pin rail. In front of the pin rails there are passage holes through the coaming for the halyards and sheet. They are protected against scouring with a piece of brass pipe. Gluing the pin rail. ...and re-fitting the coaming. Now the coaming can be varnished. Note that there are also two extra pin holders in the coaming. In the photo you can see the starboard one. Thank you very much for reading this log, for your likes and for your encouraging reactions. Till next week!
  2. 12. Cockpit coaming. The cockpit coaming has to be integrated in the deck beams. Before making it I will lay first the two adjacent deck beams. Therefore I have to glue the beam clamps first. I learned from my experience with the wales that bent ebony transmits great pressure to the model (post 43), so I do not make the deck clamp from ebony, but from cherry. I will stain it black later. I saw the deck beams out of 3 mm thick ebony. They are sawn manually with the help of a paper template glued on the wood. The deck beams sit in notches in the beam clamps. The notches are sawn with a small metal saw blade. a piece of cardboard protects the thwart. The two deck beams bounding the cockpit coaming. The cockpit coaming has an oval shape. It will be made by laminating three layers of mahogany veneer. I saw the laminating mold of a piece of waste wood. Presenting the mold on the model. Gluing the three layers veneer. When the glue is dry I saw out the coaming... ... and I sand the edges. Round the bottom side of the cockpit coaming lays a round deck beam. It is also made by laminating four strips of veneer round the coaming. The beam will consist of two half rings. Here it is like it comes off the mold; it still has to be sanded, sawn to size and re-stained in black.
  3. Making sails! I was afraid of it for a long time. But as with most things, once you start doing it, you start to like it. I am full of admiration for your Singer sewing machine, it will be quite an adventure to get it up and running again.
  4. Good job, tom. I also bought the capstan monograph. I haven't had time to get started on it yet. I am already enjoying your project.
  5. 11. Thwart The outsides of the thwart are laying on a rising. The risings are made of ebony. More to midship the thwart is supported by support beams. The two front beams do not run the full width of the hull, but are interrupted in the middle. I leave them whole for the sake of working for now. With the bottom boards (center board case removed): Without the bottom boards: The support beams rest on a strut. Making a template to saw the strut. The forward struts placed provisionally. The rear support beam runs from side to side and is supported in the middle by a pillar. Turning the ebony pillar with the lathe. The three support beams with pillar and struts. I repeat: the two forward beams will be interrupted in the middle. The thwart will be made of mahogany, I make a template to saw it out. Determining the shape of the hull sides. First at one side: then also the other side: I draw the shape of the thwart on the template with the help of an improvised light box. Here the thwart is glued and sawn. Fitting it. I want to finish the curved inside of the thwart with a thin frame. To give the frame its curved shape, I make an improvised bending iron. I secure a can on the workbench and aim the paint burner in the can. The wet frame can now easily be bent round the can into the desired shape in two directions. The frame is now glued in place on the thwart. The center of the two front support beams is now cut away. Fitting the finished thwart. Nothing (neither bottom boards nor thwart) is glued yet. Thank you very much for reading this log and for for your likes.
  6. 10. Bottom boards I start with gluing the stringer at the starboard side. At port side (the open side) the bottom boards will not be placed. Starting to puzzle the bottom boards. The boards are still all loose, I use a weight to keep them in place during the measurement. While making the bottom boards I glued the thwart risings already into place at both sides. The boards are complete. The only have to be glued and the back still has to be cut straight. Thank you very much for reading this log, for your likes and for all your encouraging reactions. Till next week!
  7. 9. Centerboard Case and Centerboard The centerboard case is built on two beams with a recess for side boards at each side. When the side boards are glued, it can be fitted in the hull. Now the case fits, the cover plate can be glued. At this stage I don't glue the centerboard case into place yet. The center board is sawn from an 1.5 mm aluminum plate. Fitting the board and checking if it can be lowered and hauled smoothly. The centerboard is painted in black. I use a cardboard box as a spray booth (the centerboard is hanging in it on a metal wire. A bit hard to see on the photo).
  8. MCB, I just discovered your log and read it diagonally. What an interesting project! Tonight I will read your full story again, but this time carefully. I should have discovered this earlier. Congratulations on this beautiful work.
×
×
  • Create New...