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About G.L.

  • Birthday 02/28/1959

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    Ship modeling, historic shipbuilding, reading, gardening and bicycling

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  1. 9.1 The base plate The base is a plate of MDF which I cover with oak veneer. The reason that I use oak veneer is simply because I have some. Here you see the plate upside down while gluing the veneer. I use some weights to give some pressure while the glue is drying. The base plate. In the front there are notches for the frames. The frames and deck clamps into place. On top of the beam clamps will come the deck beams. This davits model will be only a small section of the whaler so the deck beams will be cut off and hang in the air. For the stability of the model I will suppo
  2. 9. Davits and cranes I still have the feeling that something is missing in this project so I will not consider it as finished for the time being and continue to work on it. In the book 'Guide 'To build a whaleboat' by Erik Ronnberg you can find a detailed drawing of the davits and the cranes on a whaler. I decide to make davits and cranes as a display stand for my whale boat. It will be a somewhat didactic diorama-style display stand to remain in the style of previous models that I built (Shrimper model with an open side, Triton Cross section, Fishery smack cross section, Anatomy of
  3. Thank you very much, Marc. I would have preferred a little more certainty that it is a Norwegian whale-boat. Maybe a Norwegian reader can give more clarity on this. Thanks anyway for your reaction, Patrick.
  4. Hahan, you are living very nicely there, just like in a post card. I have the same temperature problems in my worshop. Fortunately it is never as cold here as in Sweden. Yesterday we had the first snow of this winter here, but today it will melt away. Wednesday the weather forecast is already showing +10 degrees Celsius.
  5. Erik Ronnberg describes a lot more equipment for the boat, but I think that I have made the most essential things to send my crew at whale hunt. Here is a view of the aft side of the boat And here a total picture. I started this project with a lot of expectations but I am a bit disappointed. Jules Van Beylen, the drawer of the plan, calls it a Norwegian whaleboat. The Maritime Museum calls the original model a model of an American whaleboat. I suspect it is neither. The museum purchased the model in 1943. Probably it was built during the interwar period when modelers did not
  6. 8.10. Boat hatchet Sometimes it was necessary to cut the harpoon line in a hurry to prevent the whale from capsizing or pulling the boat down. An ax is very handy to cut the line. I make the hatchet blade out of a piece of aluminium plate. The sawn piece and my example. The hatchet blade is now filed into shape. With the stem in it. The finished hatchet. The hatchet gets its place in the boat.
  7. 8.9. Lantern The lantern is made of some pieces of brass and copper tubes and a broken bicycle lamp. First I disassemble the lamp by sawing off the bulb. Cutting the hat of the lantern. The components of the lantern. Assembling the lantern The lantern
  8. 8.8. Grapnel The grapnel is made of two pieces of brass rod. They are first plied like described by Erik Ronnberg ... Then they are soldered together. Then the closed loop at the bottom is cut open and plied in the shape of the arms of the grapnel. The grapnel is then finished by filing it in shape and soldering flukes at the four arms.
  9. 8.7. Boat compass The magnetic compass is mainly composed of some pieces of copper and brass tubes which are sawn into rings. The most right ring will be the compass bowl. A thin round slice of brass is soldered at the bottom to form the bowl. Then I drill two holes at the topside opposite to each other. The two holes will hold the inner gimbal pivots. The largest ring of two pictures ago is the gimbal ring. In that ring I drill also two holes and two brass nails from the outer gimbal pivots. The compass card is a scale photocopy of an image of a compass c
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