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About G.L.

  • Birthday 02/28/1959

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    Ship modeling, historic shipbuilding, reading, gardening and bicycling

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  1. Thank you also Keith. No we don't have a micro climate here. At our side of the channel it is as cold and wet as at yours. Like I mentioned in my first post, the project started in August and the keel was made in that period. I waited some time to start this log because at that time I still had to loft out the 22 frames for the model. I am a digital illiterate, so I have to do that at the drawing table with pencil and compass which took me almost two months. To avoid week after week post which the only mention that I drew two or three frames during last week, I let some time pass until that job was done. I like to give every week an update with some progress and I have also the experience with that the time advantage will be quickly overtaken by the real time. Within a couple of weeks my other project 'the gaff sailing boat' won't be a retroactive project anymore.
  2. Thanks for your compliment Vaddoc. Before every use I give my chisels a series of hauls on the whetstone. That keeps sharp.
  3. Continuation part 7: Finishing the hull 7.2. Painting the hull Time to paint the hull. I start with painting it with primer. With a primer layer on the hull a lot of the imperfections of the planking become conspicuous. I apply a layer of paint putty and sand it. After that again primer, putty and sanding. Now the hull is more or less acceptable for the finishing coat. My system to mark the waterline is very basic: I slide a set square with a pencil attached to it along the hull. The waterline marks join at the bow and at the stern, so I can be confident that they are fairly accurate. I tape the rub rail and the waterline and paint the above water part with satin paint in cream color. The paint is laid in three layers with sanding in between it. Same procedure below the waterline: here I use dark red. The finished hull. Thank you for the likes Thank you to follow Thank you for the constructive comments, Till next week
  4. David, Thanks to mention to me the Sampson Boat Co YouTube movies. They look me perfect to watch while my wife in to the evening course in the art school.
  5. The real boat had a cast iron ballast keel. Gerd Löhmann gave his model a wooden keel, painted in black to imitate the lead. I want to give my model a real metal keel. I will make my keel of tin. I first make a dummy keel in spruce wood which will serve as template to make the casting mold. Filling up the dead wood. All the wooden parts of the keel are now made. I screw the ballast keel template provisionally on the keel to glue the dead wood pieces in place to shape the sides of the keel. I draw the rebates which have to be made on the stem. Before chiseling the stem, I will make the stem knee to give it some more strength. I make also the stern knee. Now I can make the rebates. Checking the depth of it. The round groove of the sternpost has to continue on the back of the keel and the dead wood. I file it out with a round wood file and sand it afterward. The forward part of the bow has to be narrowed. Cutting the bow in shape with the chisel. The keel is wider than the bow. It has to narrow gradually to the fore end to the width of the bow. It is also done with the wood chisel. The keel as it is now. Thank you for the likes Thank you to follow Tank you for the constructive comments. Till next week!
  6. Gentlemen, there is no numerus clausus for this class. Everybody is welcome and for the latecomers: it is going slow enough to catch up. Thank you so much for your interest.
  7. I had similar entanglements while planking my gaff sail boat. Towards the floorhead it became difficult to find knotfree planks which were wide and long enough to cut the strakes.

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