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G.L.

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About G.L.

  • Birthday 02/28/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Belgium
  • Interests
    Ship modeling, historic shipbuilding, reading, gardening and bicycling

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  1. Thank you very much for this explanation, Vaddoc. I will finish this hull as it is , but I will redo it (the mold is made anyway) following your advices and will let you know how it worked. It will take some time because since August I started a new POF project and I am now sorting the pictures to start the log within a couple of weeks.
  2. Part 7. Finishing the hull 7.1. Breast hook, gunwales and rub rails When all the frames are in place I shorten them all for 5mm to make space for the gunwale. Taking over the shape of the bow on tracing paper to make a sawing template for the breast hook. Sawing and fitting the breast hook. The gunwale is made of a 5x5mm oak bar. Fitting the starboard gunwale. Gluing gunwales and breast hook. Without clamps I plane 2 mahogany planks to a thickness of 2mm.to make the rub rails. The two rub rails shaped... ... and glued The rub rails: Thank you to follow. Thank you for the likes. And thank you for the constructive comments. Till next week!
  3. I am glad you are liking my work, Nils. Thank you for your comment, Mustafa. Your suggestions are very much appreciated, Vaddock. I am an enthousiast follower of your 5-tonner log. Exceptional job you do there. As a matter of fact, Pete (Peter Cane) drew my attention to the planking tutorials on the HGR site. This week I spent some time on experimenting with the method that Tony (Tkay11) used also for his chaloupe armée. This method prescribes tu use planks with only one tapered side and one straight side instead of fully lofted out planks. For my try-out I remake the work boat of my smack cross section, this time in a 1/10 scale. I build it on a spruce block model mold. I am not convinced that it is really the method that I am searching for: To make this answer I prematurely scraped an sanded a part of the hull to see what I still can make of this hull. Against my expectation the result is not as dramatic as I feared. Here some pictures. Port side is partly sanded, more sanding will still be needed. The pinholes in the strakes are filled by gluing a wood splinter in it. I will finish this hull. I am curious how it will look inside. Probably I will remake it another time, this time with lofted strakes and with templates in segments like you suggest. Maybe I should start a log of it on the forum. I use ordinary white wood glue. To apply it I often use a syringe.
  4. She looks very nice with the dark painted hull and the copper plates.
  5. Part 6. The frames The frames in the model are 3x3 mm oak frames. To be able to bend them to the hull form I will have to steam them. I use the steam barrel of a wall paper steamer to produce the steam and connect it to a steam box made of plywood. Inside of the steam box. The frames are laid on the small metal cross bars to allow the steam moving all around the frames. I place the steam box outside my workshop because of the escaping vapor. I leave the frames for at least 20 minutes in the steam. Then I press them gently into the hull. Sometimes one of them creaks but most of them go without problems. I use small wooden planks as spacers to glue the frames at equal intervals. After a night drying, I take out the frames, sand them and glue them into place. The placing of frames takes me several days. In the mast step area the frames are laying at half distance intervals. Thank you to follow. Thank you for the likes. Till next week!
  6. Pete, This time I fully agree with you😄. As long we express our point of view honestly in a polite way this forum remains a valuable learning school for us all.
  7. Thank you for the video, Vaddoc. I am looking to improve my rope producing as well and certainly found some good ideas in you demo.
  8. I do not quite agree with Peter. I suppose that you prefer to use self-made portholes rather than bought ones, Nils. Brings me to my question: Did you cast yourself the portholes?
  9. The center board case is supported by six metal knees, three at each side. The knees must be 2.5 mm thick on the model. I do not have such a thick brass plate, so I will laminate the knees. First I saw some brass strips of 0.8 mm thickness. I forgot to make a picture of the first step: First I folded one strip in a right angle, L-shaped with two equal legs. Then I covered the two legs of the angle at both sides with a tinned strip. I try to show it schematically: Then I solder the whole knee together by heating it with a gas burner. Filing the knees. Drilling the nail holes. The six knees for the center board case. The metal knees stand on wooden floors. Between the keelson and the floor piece there is a small gap for the smooth flow of bilge water. Thank you to follow. Thank you for the likes. And thank you for the constructive comments. Till next week!

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