vaddoc

Time sure flies!
 
Many thanks for the visit and likes
@Dr PR Phil, I remembered you sharing this and it was on my to do list, unfortunately I had to use so many pieces of wood to straighten the hull that there was no space for a brush, most of the inner surface of the hull was inaccessible. I ll be using epoxy for sure in the future though.
 
So, very little progress to share but here it is:
 
I finished with the propeller shaft housing, it is secured, sanded and faired. I think this was a much more elegant solution than Occre's but also much more difficult.
 


Next I started cutting the openings on the bulwark. One side went fine:
 

The other not, the drill slipped!

Trying to see how to correct it, I broke it even more!

Ok, no need to panic. It was relatively straight forward to fix it:



It has since been sanded and the screws replaced with tree nails. When painted and more stuff added on, it will be invisible.
 
I then attached the rubrail on one side

Now the rub rail continues around the stern in a pretty tight curve for a 3 x 3 mm pear strip to accept. I emersed the strip in a pot of boiling water slowly pushing against the pot wall, the strip took the bend in no time. 

This is all I had time to do between work and extended summer vacations.
 
My work load is going to drastically increase soon, so clearly the most reasonable thing to do is to start another log on an ambitious project - coming soon.
 
Best wishes to all
Vaddoc

A wee more update as I did a bit more work on the boat - I must admit I am having too much fun!
 
I previously admitted that I shamelessly read the building instructions from Occre of their Hercules kit to get some ideas. There are a few things that I felt could be done better, in this post I ll show my solutions to the problems.
 
So I left the hull on the side for now and started work on the superstructure. Again, my CAD drafts were not entirely correct but at least the templates for the superstructure inner bulkheads were spot on. However, the plywood started warping so I screwed the bottom to a very thick piece of plywood and used screws and epoxy to make it rock solid. 

 
Now, Occre uses lots of thin vertical pieces to cover the forward part of the superstructure, blended together afterwards with filler and sanding but I just bend a piece of 1 mm plywood.


Another area were Occre used multiple thin strips is the two aft corners but I just made two pillars with stacked pieces of plywood - the small gap will be very easily filled with filler.



Hercules has a very distinct propeller shaft tube thingy, this is a feature that a model must have.

 
The solution from Occre is not very elegant, just bending a piece of wood over a tube. My solution was different.
 
It was actually easy to draft this in CAD and looking at the drawing, it seemed doable to sand a half dowel to sit on the hull.


Indeed, it worked well and was surprisingly easy and quick. The screws will of course be replaced with wood nails, maybe even use a bot of epoxy, then filler and sanding - I think it will look fine.



Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Thank you all for your comments and likes!
I ve been working on the boat, walking a thin line between the Admiral's wrath and getting a few things actually done, so time for another update.
 
Rob Ross used to say that there are no mistakes, only happy accidents. There sure have been many happy accidents so far with this boat! Usually my CAD drafts are pretty accurate but as I move on, I am scratching my head as 1+1 does not always make 2, I cannot figure out what I was actually drafting. But so far I managed to more or less fix things.
 
So planking is finished! You will see that the sheer strake, or rather half of it, is missing. The reason is that Hercules has a tall bulwark and it would be difficult to securely fix it in place so I thought it made sense to merge the sheer strake with the bulwark. Now Hercules is 150 feet long and made of steel so the planks are completely unrealistic but they do make a nice hull!



The card templates (there were even more than these) show how much work actually planking involves with spilling and everything - still I had only 2 half planks that I had to re do as they came out very wrong.

One of the many happy accidents is in the following photos. I did not really want to buy new wood so I had just enough pear for the planking. I managed to snap the very last length I had left, with just a half plank left to do! I managed to fix this by making it in two parts, narrow escape!

Then lots of Osmo filler and lots of sanding. Of course I did not read the instructions that state to thin the filler with 15% water and I struggled wasting a lot of the expensive filler. Prior to that, all the hundreds of screws were replaced by tree nails.



Much more filling and sanding will be needed but a big chunk of the hull preparation has been done.
 
Then I made the bulwarks but only after I managed to snap the little stem extension not once but twice. I had a sheet of maple and three sheets of mahogany left so I used maple - what a nice wood it is! It will all be primed and painted black.


 



But something felt wrong. I went back to my CAD drafts and the plans and indeed, the bulwark/planks were a couple of centimeters short. The happy accidents are piling up!
Now, Hercules has this little feature at the stern where there is a small flat vertical segment, this has to be made by laminating thin strips which gives the opportunity to correct the mistake above.
So I used some thin beech strips I had. I dislike beech due to its huge movement in service but it is so nice to bend, just with water it can be tied in a knot.


I just used PVA to laminate the strips, if I had used epoxy it would have been very messy.

Then rough cut to shape and screwed in place.



I know it looks rough, I had trouble with the stern drafting in CAD and did not really spend time on it, I hope I ll fix it with a bit of filler, bit of sanding, paint on top.
 
I am enjoying this boat, it is very different from anything I have built so fat.
 
On another note, the postman dropped a cardboard tube with some plans which are currently being processed. There will be a new log starting, this time for a far more complex boat that will take a long time to build, a boat that from the first time I saw it I new I just have to make! 
 
Take care all
 
Vaddoc

Thanks Mark and Jim and all that hit the like button.
 
A bit too early for an update but It's exciting seeing the shape of the hull slowly emerging.
Boats are such beautiful things!
 
Vaddoc

Thank you all for your likes and replies and taking the time to visit.
 
@Jim Lad Jim it really makes a big difference, having the extra real estate around the saw but figuring out how to make the bench was a pain!
@Bedford I could and should have used 0.8 ply but I had already finished the CAD design, it would need more frames and most importantly true 0.8 mm seems to have disappeared - most of it apparently comes from Russia. Good to know though that Scissors can cut it cleanly - never thought of it. Def one to remember.
 
Now, lets talk Planking!
 
I cut both garboards and steamed them in place. I ve never steamed pear wood but it responded superbly. I used my steam box to heat the planks - worked really well.

 
 
 
I then scarfed the ends and secured in place with screws, The ends however had to be glued as the hull is not thick enough. Due to uneven surfaces I used epoxy - very messy solution but I do not think there is another. I think they came out alright!


I really like planking. For this boat, I did not really spend much time planning, I just eyeballed it a bit. I have only marked half of the hull but I feel pretty
confident. So let me share my method of spilling planks.
 
First I use 1mm (or 1.5 I am not sure) cardboard to make a pattern. I am only interested in the side of the plank that meets the plank already installed.
 
The foreword part of the plank has a lot of twist along its axis.

To get the correct shape of the edge, cut a strip of cardboard roughly the correct shape and run dividers along the edge of the plank already installed. 

Then cut along the line with a knife


Fitting the pattern, it is a bit off - mark the high spots

Lightly sand the high spots, fit again, sand again etc. Now it fits fine

Connect with the previous plank using cardboard and glue and move on to next segment.

For the aft segment, the process is repeated - it just happened my rough cut pattern was spot on here!




The plank is now completed - the upper edge that is



Usually, I would just cut the plank as a single very long one but I would like to reduce wastage of wood.
So now lets cut the individual segments. First we transfer the shape of the upper edge to wood, making sure we mark the positions of the frames.
 


Then we measure the distances from edge of previous plank to line on frame and transfer over to wood


Using a baten, we connect the marks making sure the line is fair

Our plank segment is ready

Next cut the plank, test fit, mark and sand any high spots, fit again etc. Later on we will need to also take into account bevels and also curvature of frames - either sand concave the inner surface of planks or sand flat the frames.


Same process for middle and aft segments


All segments are ready, just the scarfs are needed.

The plank on the other side needs to be again cut individually as it is a close but not exact fit.
 
On a different boat I would have spent more time arranging the run of the planks but for Hercules, I think this will work well - the plank shape so far does not seem horrible. 
 
I hope this was interesting!
 
Till next time
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Since my last post lots of things happened, basically I had to scrap everything - again!
 
@AntonyUK Thanks Antony, I am silently following your log, she is coming along fine - lightning fast progress as well! 
 
Ok, so here is what happened.
 
I was happy with things but then I started work on the sternpost and this is when I realised that my hull was wrong.
The sternpost is a solid piece of timber with a set thickness. The inner skin of the hull needs to meet it in a certain way so that the frames, which follow the inner skin, can be bolted onto the sternpost. The way my hull was lofted was too wide at the top so that it did not meet the sternpost, but also too narrow near the bottom so that the frames would need to be positioned too high to be bolted on to the sternpost.
 
So, it was clear that I had to reloft the boat but first roughly arrange the sternpost.
 
So, back to Leos videos. Using this (and others) image, where all lines are shown, I was able to recreate his sternpost.
 

Then I relofted the boat. This time I did 4 cycles, for modelling purposes I do not think I needed to do any more. I also decided to keep the 1 degree slope of the keel.



And with the rabet and transom

Compared to Leo's hull, it looks pretty close - of course the shape will be a bit different but not by much

How about the sternpost? It actually is fine.
 
The next photo shows the hull somewhere in the early stages of lofting. The shape of the sternpost can be seen, the lower line is where the outer skin meets the hull, the upper one where the inner skin meets it. Obviously it looks wrong

This is how it looks on the finished hull - much nicer, lots of timber for the frames to notch, I can also change the shape of the sternpost a bit.

But a boat has two ends - what about the bow? This also has a set dimension along its length. The hull is lofted to the face of the stem but the planks will end at the rabet which is vertical along the side of the stem, but its projection to the side of the hull is not. It's ok though because this difference is very small.
 
I started work on the stem assembly, again following Leo's arrangement


But I could not make it work, the rabet would not transition smoothly from the stem to the keel. I struggled for a few days until I realised that my rabet was all wrong. When I fixed it, it all came together.
 
If you are lofting this boat, the rabet must pass through the point where the underside of stem meets the upper surface of the keel.
 
Still, my stem arrangement is not correct - it is not thick enough. In station No1 there is a frame and from there aft a frame every foot. My stem is not thick enough for the frames to be bolted on.


This is easily corrected.
 
One last issue was at the stern, I had the impression that in the plans there is one additional frame. The next photo shows why this is not the case - there is simply no space for it.
 

I am aware these are very boring posts but please bare with me - this is not an easy boat. There will be lots of saw dust in the future!
More work is needed for the frames, bulwarks, beams, deck planks etc, this is also to be able to figure out what wood I need to order - it will be a lot!
 
Till next time, take care all
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Since my last post lots of things happened, basically I had to scrap everything - again!
 
@AntonyUK Thanks Antony, I am silently following your log, she is coming along fine - lightning fast progress as well! 
 
Ok, so here is what happened.
 
I was happy with things but then I started work on the sternpost and this is when I realised that my hull was wrong.
The sternpost is a solid piece of timber with a set thickness. The inner skin of the hull needs to meet it in a certain way so that the frames, which follow the inner skin, can be bolted onto the sternpost. The way my hull was lofted was too wide at the top so that it did not meet the sternpost, but also too narrow near the bottom so that the frames would need to be positioned too high to be bolted on to the sternpost.
 
So, it was clear that I had to reloft the boat but first roughly arrange the sternpost.
 
So, back to Leos videos. Using this (and others) image, where all lines are shown, I was able to recreate his sternpost.
 

Then I relofted the boat. This time I did 4 cycles, for modelling purposes I do not think I needed to do any more. I also decided to keep the 1 degree slope of the keel.



And with the rabet and transom

Compared to Leo's hull, it looks pretty close - of course the shape will be a bit different but not by much

How about the sternpost? It actually is fine.
 
The next photo shows the hull somewhere in the early stages of lofting. The shape of the sternpost can be seen, the lower line is where the outer skin meets the hull, the upper one where the inner skin meets it. Obviously it looks wrong

This is how it looks on the finished hull - much nicer, lots of timber for the frames to notch, I can also change the shape of the sternpost a bit.

But a boat has two ends - what about the bow? This also has a set dimension along its length. The hull is lofted to the face of the stem but the planks will end at the rabet which is vertical along the side of the stem, but its projection to the side of the hull is not. It's ok though because this difference is very small.
 
I started work on the stem assembly, again following Leo's arrangement


But I could not make it work, the rabet would not transition smoothly from the stem to the keel. I struggled for a few days until I realised that my rabet was all wrong. When I fixed it, it all came together.
 
If you are lofting this boat, the rabet must pass through the point where the underside of stem meets the upper surface of the keel.
 
Still, my stem arrangement is not correct - it is not thick enough. In station No1 there is a frame and from there aft a frame every foot. My stem is not thick enough for the frames to be bolted on.


This is easily corrected.
 
One last issue was at the stern, I had the impression that in the plans there is one additional frame. The next photo shows why this is not the case - there is simply no space for it.
 

I am aware these are very boring posts but please bare with me - this is not an easy boat. There will be lots of saw dust in the future!
More work is needed for the frames, bulwarks, beams, deck planks etc, this is also to be able to figure out what wood I need to order - it will be a lot!
 
Till next time, take care all
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Since my last post lots of things happened, basically I had to scrap everything - again!
 
@AntonyUK Thanks Antony, I am silently following your log, she is coming along fine - lightning fast progress as well! 
 
Ok, so here is what happened.
 
I was happy with things but then I started work on the sternpost and this is when I realised that my hull was wrong.
The sternpost is a solid piece of timber with a set thickness. The inner skin of the hull needs to meet it in a certain way so that the frames, which follow the inner skin, can be bolted onto the sternpost. The way my hull was lofted was too wide at the top so that it did not meet the sternpost, but also too narrow near the bottom so that the frames would need to be positioned too high to be bolted on to the sternpost.
 
So, it was clear that I had to reloft the boat but first roughly arrange the sternpost.
 
So, back to Leos videos. Using this (and others) image, where all lines are shown, I was able to recreate his sternpost.
 

Then I relofted the boat. This time I did 4 cycles, for modelling purposes I do not think I needed to do any more. I also decided to keep the 1 degree slope of the keel.



And with the rabet and transom

Compared to Leo's hull, it looks pretty close - of course the shape will be a bit different but not by much

How about the sternpost? It actually is fine.
 
The next photo shows the hull somewhere in the early stages of lofting. The shape of the sternpost can be seen, the lower line is where the outer skin meets the hull, the upper one where the inner skin meets it. Obviously it looks wrong

This is how it looks on the finished hull - much nicer, lots of timber for the frames to notch, I can also change the shape of the sternpost a bit.

But a boat has two ends - what about the bow? This also has a set dimension along its length. The hull is lofted to the face of the stem but the planks will end at the rabet which is vertical along the side of the stem, but its projection to the side of the hull is not. It's ok though because this difference is very small.
 
I started work on the stem assembly, again following Leo's arrangement


But I could not make it work, the rabet would not transition smoothly from the stem to the keel. I struggled for a few days until I realised that my rabet was all wrong. When I fixed it, it all came together.
 
If you are lofting this boat, the rabet must pass through the point where the underside of stem meets the upper surface of the keel.
 
Still, my stem arrangement is not correct - it is not thick enough. In station No1 there is a frame and from there aft a frame every foot. My stem is not thick enough for the frames to be bolted on.


This is easily corrected.
 
One last issue was at the stern, I had the impression that in the plans there is one additional frame. The next photo shows why this is not the case - there is simply no space for it.
 

I am aware these are very boring posts but please bare with me - this is not an easy boat. There will be lots of saw dust in the future!
More work is needed for the frames, bulwarks, beams, deck planks etc, this is also to be able to figure out what wood I need to order - it will be a lot!
 
Till next time, take care all
 
Vaddoc

Many thanks to all for visiting, commenting and hitting the like button.
I cannot resist a special mention to @Bedford: This is a boat built without these calculations. Lava chicken anyone?

Now, I know these posts are boring and probably difficult to understand but I have been diving deep into this hull and I think is best to post my progress as I go, maybe it will be of use to others in the future that may want to build a similar boat.

There are so many things going on and defining the various aspects and parts of the hull need to progress almost in parallel. You may be working on the keel and frames but then the deck needs defining which means the bulwarks need defining but then the transom needs sorting and so on. I can understand Leo when he was saying how complex it was building Tally Ho.

Back to the boat now:
I ‘ve been studying Leo’s videos and they are a treasure of information. He posted this picture of the lines of the boat. I compared it to my lines and they are not far off.

His bow is a bit more narrow, this is why his stem is 7 inches wide and mine is 8.8”. I do not know how he did it – I absolutely could not make it work without deviating too much from the plans Perhaps I followed more closely the table of offsets, whereas he seems to have followed more the lines drawing – but he had the boat! 

Up to this part, it would have actually been easier to use batons to fair the curves. But from now on, CAD really shines.

So, up to now, we have the lines of the hull, the keel, stem, sternpost and transom to the OUTSIDE of the hull. We now need however to define the INNER surface of the hull, where the frames will touch. This is extremely easy with CAD, just a command to offset the surface. The thickness of the planking is 1”3/8 to ½” but I made it 3mm to help with the build.


Now, using the inner skin, we can define the actual width and shape of the transom, as the initial shape included the thickness of the planking.

Now, we need the frames. Leo changed the thickness and made them all double frames. Projecting vertical lines on the inner skin gives us all the frames with all the outer bevels. We can then offset the inner skin even further to the thickness of the frames and do the same so now we have the inner surface of the frames with all bevels ready.

I started work on finalizing the frames. They rest on the top of the keel but also there is a pocket on the side of the keel where they slot in.

So I decided to do the same. Leo mentions there is 1 degree slope to the keel but mine is dead flat. The pockets will also be parallel to the midline, they will not follow the curvature of the hull

However, after a few frames I stopped. To define the upper end of the frames, the deck had to be made which means I had to decide the camper, that is the amount of lateral curvature of the deck.
This needed a bit of head scratching. My experience has been that the camper is fixed and applying it along the sheer, gives us a curvature that gently transitions from zero fore and aft to maximum in the middle. However, Leo did not do this. He very usefully has posted this photo.

There is still camper even at the transom. So I shamelessly copied the curvature of his deck form the profile view and asked CAD to create a surface. 


Now, this was offset to account for the thickness of the deck planking and that gave us the inner skin of the deck

It should not be difficult to find the shape of the beams later on.
 
So now there is a new sheer to account for the thickness of deck, this will also be used to trim the top of the frames



But now, it is time to deal with the bulwarks and the stanchions. Leo seems to have spend some time on this and it has been on my mind but it went very smoothly.
So the stanchions are additional pieces of wood that extend above the deck, hold planks and create the sides.

Again, Leo very usefully has posted a drawing of the “sheer” of his bulwarks.
 
This is a very interesting part of the boat. The bulwarks from the profile view follow the actual sheer. From the top view however, their "sheer" crosses the boat sheer again and again. I am not sure how exactly it is defined and what implications the different angles have but again I copied Leo's . It looks ok and I do not think I am far off



So, now that this “sheer” is defined, it is easy to ask the computer to create the surface and offset this to get the inner skin. The stanchions can easily be created in the same way as the frames.


There is an interesting element where the bulwarks meet the transom. This will be a particularly tricky area especially when the toprail will go on. 

Ok, so far all is going well. Next the bow timbers will need to be defined, I will try and follow Leo’s arrangement. Then will be the sternpost. Then to finish all the frames, arrange the transom timbers and then the beam shelf and all beams.

Regarding the beams, Leo has followed exactly Mr Strange’s arrangement except for an area in the bow, there was a wide companionway but he reduced the opening and put in an additional beam.

Regarding wood: I think it will be pear for keel, frames beams etc, maple or pear for planks, boxwood for deck, perhaps mahogany for deck structures. 
Leo used Teak for the covering boards, I may use cherry or pear for this and also for the stanchions, bulwarks and toprail. I think some suppliers provide iroko which has similar colour to teak, I have no idea if it is any good for modeling.
One thing's for sure, the wood order will be massive.

You were warned this would be long and boring!

Many thanks for visiting
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I think I did it!
 
But first my deepest thank you to all that visited, hit the like button or replied - much appreciated!
 
How right you all are:
 
Now David, I had forgotten all about the diagonals! Silly as my first efforts to loft the boat were actually using the diagonals, which is what Leo did. Thanks! Diagonals coming up bellow.
 
I did exactly this Mark! Still, this led to a stem just short of 9 inches wide, whereas Leo ended up with a 7 inch stem. No matter how much I tried I could not match this without drastically altering the shape of the sheer or having a stem clearly wrong and too far off the plans.
 
Absolutely. After the hull was pretty much shaped, I realised that what appeared as large unfairness in the CAD lines was in reality just a difference of 3-4 mm, and this in the full size boat.
 
I most certainly will Greg and I also plan to visit Tally Ho (if possible) when Leo gets back home. All in good time!
 
 
Ok, so now let me share the progress made - I must admit I am pretty happy, unless some eagled eyed people find a huge error somewhere!
 
So blending all data sources I found a happy medium for the sheer, the stem, the sternpost, transom, face of stem and keel. I accepted that frame no 2 will be a bit S-shaped (not much). I then went through three lofting cycles. Suddenly, all fell into place! All lines were fair and the frames and waterlines were either touching or just a few mm apart:


These are the sets of frames after each cycle - the white frames are the traced ones from Mr Strange's drawings.

But is the hull really fair? Enter diagonals!

It is actually ok!
The unfairness at the stern is because I used the last frame to create the lines - without it the top three diagonals become completely fair. I will actually not be using this last frame so all good. The bottom diagonal is a bit wonky but the distance to fairness in that aft point in reality is just 2 mm in the full scale boat - meaningless.
At the bow, again the adjustments to make the diagonals fair are tiny.
In any case, I thought I d give it a try. So I faired the diagonals...

......produced the new contact points with the frames and transferred these points over to the finished hull to redraw these frames...

....and then I gave up. It was meaningless, the difference was just a few mm. In the actual boat it would not make a difference, even Leo accepted 1/8 inch tolerance. In 1/12 scale, this tolerance becomes less than 0.5mm.
 
The next photo shows my frames compared the the traced ones - they are pretty close.

So lets see the hull! 

Now, this looks pretty fair. More bellow



Adding the rest of rabet at the stern

And a couple of photos of the complete hull.


I think it is adequate to start the project and the wood will correct any imperfections.
This was the first of I am sure many milestones in this very long journey. We are still far from making any wood dust.
 
Take care all
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I was too fast congratulating myself! Not only I have no progress to show in this short update but actually I ve gone backwards. Still, my understanding of this hull has grown.
 
Now, this is going again to be a bit technical which means quite boring!
 
When I went to do the second round of fairing, I noticed that the frame No2 had acquired an S shape. I am sensitive to No 2 frames - consistently in my boats they creates issues. Looking deeper, I did not like it. So I scrapped everything and started again, this time using the table of offsets. But I again run into problems as things did not add up.
 
These are the issues I have encountered so far with these plans:
 
1. The sheer is difficult to define
 
The start and finish of the sheer, which are at the face of the stem and at the back face of the transom, are not given in the table of offsets. These can be measured from the lines drawing but it does not work very well. 
Furthermore, the sheer in the lines drawing is far from fair and the half breadths and depths in the table of offsets also do not produce a fair sheer and do not work at all well with all the other information given in the various sheets of the plans.
It took a lot of head scratching but finally, combining all sources, I managed to produce a sheer that I feel is half descend.
 
2. The shape and position of the stem is difficult to define.
 
This information is given in three places. In the table of offsets, in a separate sheet in the plans where distances are give from the baseline and the forward end of the sheer (the latter is NOT given though in the table of offsets!), and also can be defined by the plan drawings. These three sources provide three different stems! The difference is not huge but still significant. Again, by blending everything I think I have a reasonable stem
 
4. The width of the face of the stem after tapering from the rabet is a bit of a quizz
 
Now, this face progressively widens from the top of the stem finally reaching the full width of the keel. These widths are given at various heights but still fairing of the lateral edge of the face is needed so that this transition is smooth.


I finally managed to do this, which of course changed some of the dimensions given in the table of offsets, but, whereas Leo starts this face at 1.25" wide, in the lines drawings it is much wider, almost 2" or more. (This information is not written anywhere else). In 1:12 scale this face will be 2.5 mm so maybe a bit too narrow. In my CAD drawings I ve followed Leo and did it 1.25" but may need to revisit this to make it wider - this will unfortunately mean that I will need to redo the sheer. We will see.
 
5. The sternpost and transom dimensions are not given
 
I traced the lines drawings to get this. The width of the sternpost is not given either but luckily Leo mentions it is 4" wide - which looks about right.
 
6. There seems to be a problem with the body plan
 
Now, this is important.
The plans contain a table of offsets and also the lines in profile view and body view. Now, these do match, with the exception of the bottom end of the frames. (All of the frames)
 
In the following photo, the waterline is the blue line.
Note what is happening with frames 1 and 2.
 
The top ends of the frames indeed meet the sheer where they should in the profile plan.
The green lines show where the frames should finish according to the table of offsets. These heights are correct in the profile plan but not in the body plan. The frames seem to reach the keel quite a bit higher. This is the case for all frames. (Apologies, for frame No4 both lines are green but the upper one should be red)

I really tried to figure this out but cannot find an explanation. Interestingly, Leo in his own lofting seem to have positioned the bottom end of frame No 2 in the position given in the table of offsets - about 3/4 of the way down between the 2 waterlines
 

Frame No 2 in his plans appear to be ever so slightly S shaped - which is what I think it should be.
 
Now, I ve been fighting this a few weeks now and am a bit broken, I need to recover a bit before I continue.
 
If any of the wise elders can provide any advice on the discrepancy between the body and profile plans, I really would be grateful!
 
Take care all
Vaddoc
 

"It's amazing what a boat can do"
 
TALLY HO with fidded topmast and spinnaker flying. Photo; Beken of Cowes, 1927.
Tally Ho is not just a boat - it is an amazing story of friendship, perseverance, skill and success, a crossroad of many journeys - of men and boats.
 
It all started with Albert Strange, a man of many talents, with a passion for sailing and for designing light cruising vessels. He designed Tally Ho (originally named Betty) which was built and commissioned in 1910. The Albert Strange Association website is really the best place to learn about this remarkable person. https://albertstrange.org/biography/
 
Tally Ho lived a colourful but hard life. The highlight is, or rather had been up to now, winning the Fastnet race in 1927 but then, in 1968, she actually sunk hitting a reef in Manuae, near Cook Islands. She was then raised and repaired. https://sampsonboat.co.uk/about/tally-ho-history
 
Many people came and went and Tally Ho was brought into disrepair, hauled ashore somewhere in the west cost of America and placed under a huge tarpaulin. She was put up for an unlikely sale, destined to be broken up.
 
There comes Leo, a fearless young man with a dream - he bought Tally Ho for $1 and then spent 7 years rebuilding her from the ground up. The journey can be found on You Tube, Leo has posted hundreds of videos and through this funded the project. It is a fascinating journey with its ups and downs, happy and sad moments, triumphs and disasters. She is now all finished, truly a wonderful boat, slowly making her way back to the UK.
 
 
 
Watching the videos (I actually picked all this up rather late) there was no doubt in my mind that one day I would build Tally Ho.
 
This will be a big project and at this time (and for the foreseeable future) I have no time to spare, limited finances, multiple other endeavours and Hercules half way through. What better time to start building Tally Ho than now! After all, her story is one of overcoming obstacles, with a launching date 2 years from now - so all good.
 
I hope I will be able to pull this off and also, to do the boat justice! 
 
I contacted the Albert Strange Association and got the plans. I ve been sitting on these for months now but I finally fired up the computer and started drawing lines with virtual ink on CAD. I have not decided on the scale yet but it will be large. 
 
Take care all
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Since my last post lots of things happened, basically I had to scrap everything - again!
 
@AntonyUK Thanks Antony, I am silently following your log, she is coming along fine - lightning fast progress as well! 
 
Ok, so here is what happened.
 
I was happy with things but then I started work on the sternpost and this is when I realised that my hull was wrong.
The sternpost is a solid piece of timber with a set thickness. The inner skin of the hull needs to meet it in a certain way so that the frames, which follow the inner skin, can be bolted onto the sternpost. The way my hull was lofted was too wide at the top so that it did not meet the sternpost, but also too narrow near the bottom so that the frames would need to be positioned too high to be bolted on to the sternpost.
 
So, it was clear that I had to reloft the boat but first roughly arrange the sternpost.
 
So, back to Leos videos. Using this (and others) image, where all lines are shown, I was able to recreate his sternpost.
 

Then I relofted the boat. This time I did 4 cycles, for modelling purposes I do not think I needed to do any more. I also decided to keep the 1 degree slope of the keel.



And with the rabet and transom

Compared to Leo's hull, it looks pretty close - of course the shape will be a bit different but not by much

How about the sternpost? It actually is fine.
 
The next photo shows the hull somewhere in the early stages of lofting. The shape of the sternpost can be seen, the lower line is where the outer skin meets the hull, the upper one where the inner skin meets it. Obviously it looks wrong

This is how it looks on the finished hull - much nicer, lots of timber for the frames to notch, I can also change the shape of the sternpost a bit.

But a boat has two ends - what about the bow? This also has a set dimension along its length. The hull is lofted to the face of the stem but the planks will end at the rabet which is vertical along the side of the stem, but its projection to the side of the hull is not. It's ok though because this difference is very small.
 
I started work on the stem assembly, again following Leo's arrangement


But I could not make it work, the rabet would not transition smoothly from the stem to the keel. I struggled for a few days until I realised that my rabet was all wrong. When I fixed it, it all came together.
 
If you are lofting this boat, the rabet must pass through the point where the underside of stem meets the upper surface of the keel.
 
Still, my stem arrangement is not correct - it is not thick enough. In station No1 there is a frame and from there aft a frame every foot. My stem is not thick enough for the frames to be bolted on.


This is easily corrected.
 
One last issue was at the stern, I had the impression that in the plans there is one additional frame. The next photo shows why this is not the case - there is simply no space for it.
 

I am aware these are very boring posts but please bare with me - this is not an easy boat. There will be lots of saw dust in the future!
More work is needed for the frames, bulwarks, beams, deck planks etc, this is also to be able to figure out what wood I need to order - it will be a lot!
 
Till next time, take care all
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Since my last post lots of things happened, basically I had to scrap everything - again!
 
@AntonyUK Thanks Antony, I am silently following your log, she is coming along fine - lightning fast progress as well! 
 
Ok, so here is what happened.
 
I was happy with things but then I started work on the sternpost and this is when I realised that my hull was wrong.
The sternpost is a solid piece of timber with a set thickness. The inner skin of the hull needs to meet it in a certain way so that the frames, which follow the inner skin, can be bolted onto the sternpost. The way my hull was lofted was too wide at the top so that it did not meet the sternpost, but also too narrow near the bottom so that the frames would need to be positioned too high to be bolted on to the sternpost.
 
So, it was clear that I had to reloft the boat but first roughly arrange the sternpost.
 
So, back to Leos videos. Using this (and others) image, where all lines are shown, I was able to recreate his sternpost.
 

Then I relofted the boat. This time I did 4 cycles, for modelling purposes I do not think I needed to do any more. I also decided to keep the 1 degree slope of the keel.



And with the rabet and transom

Compared to Leo's hull, it looks pretty close - of course the shape will be a bit different but not by much

How about the sternpost? It actually is fine.
 
The next photo shows the hull somewhere in the early stages of lofting. The shape of the sternpost can be seen, the lower line is where the outer skin meets the hull, the upper one where the inner skin meets it. Obviously it looks wrong

This is how it looks on the finished hull - much nicer, lots of timber for the frames to notch, I can also change the shape of the sternpost a bit.

But a boat has two ends - what about the bow? This also has a set dimension along its length. The hull is lofted to the face of the stem but the planks will end at the rabet which is vertical along the side of the stem, but its projection to the side of the hull is not. It's ok though because this difference is very small.
 
I started work on the stem assembly, again following Leo's arrangement


But I could not make it work, the rabet would not transition smoothly from the stem to the keel. I struggled for a few days until I realised that my rabet was all wrong. When I fixed it, it all came together.
 
If you are lofting this boat, the rabet must pass through the point where the underside of stem meets the upper surface of the keel.
 
Still, my stem arrangement is not correct - it is not thick enough. In station No1 there is a frame and from there aft a frame every foot. My stem is not thick enough for the frames to be bolted on.


This is easily corrected.
 
One last issue was at the stern, I had the impression that in the plans there is one additional frame. The next photo shows why this is not the case - there is simply no space for it.
 

I am aware these are very boring posts but please bare with me - this is not an easy boat. There will be lots of saw dust in the future!
More work is needed for the frames, bulwarks, beams, deck planks etc, this is also to be able to figure out what wood I need to order - it will be a lot!
 
Till next time, take care all
 
Vaddoc

Next up is vertical ladders. I need four for this model.
 
One of the assembled ladders is shown here. It will go on the aft end of the main deckhouse, on the starboard side, from the main deck to the O1 level. Below it are the pieces of a "kit" for a longer ladder that will go on the port side of the O1 level deckhouse from the O1 level to the O2 level on top of the pilot house.
 
The ladder parts were cut from some 0.030 x 0.015 inch (0.76 x 0.38 mm) brass strip made by Special Shapes Company. They made many different small brass shapes, including "U", "H", "L", solid rectangular and round rods. Unfortunately they are no longer in business and I know of no other company that makes these parts.
 
I bought out the stock years ago from a local hardware store that was run out of business by big box hardware stores. I guess there isn't enough profit for the big store paper shufflers to bother stocking these things.
 
The actual cross section dimensions of the side pieces and rungs of vertical ladders in the US Navy were 1 3/4 x 3/4 inch (44 x 19 mm). That would be 0.036 x 0.016 inches (0.9 x 0.4 mm) at 1:48 scale, so the brass strip is just slightly undersize. All of the ladders on the MSIs had rungs spaced 12 inches (305 mm) vertically.  This was pretty common in the Navy. However, not all vertical ladders (ladder rungs, steps, etc.) were the spaced the same. When I made the CAD model of CLG-5 the blueprints often showed the spacing of the top rung below the upper deck, and the bottom rung above the lower deck. Then the blueprints said to space N number of rungs equally between the top and bottom rungs. This produced spacings from 11 to 15 inches (279 to 381 mm), although about 13 inches (330 mm) was the most common. The rungs were all 12 inches long (305 mm), although the blueprints show ladders were also built with 18 and 24 inch (457 and 610 mm) widths.
 
I made this jig from scrap wood for assembling the vertical ladders. The 0.094 x 0.030 inch (2.4 x 0.76 mm) side basswood strips are spaced precisely at the outer dimension of the ladder sides 0.28 inches (0.25 + 0.015 + 0.015) or 7.1 mm. At the center are two wooden pieces spaced just over 0.015 inch apart, the narrow width of the ladder rungs. As you can see, the ladder rung is placed in this slot. Holes were cut through the base and wooden side strips to allow a soldering iron tip to contact the brass parts.
 
More basswood pieces were glued to the base spaced exactly 0.25 inch (6.35 mm) from the right hand center piece. Really only three of these spacer pieces are needed to assemble a ladder - the center one and one to either side. But the additional pieces serve to hold the assembly in place and show any spacing errors that might creep in. The gap between these spacer pieces and the outer side pieces is the narrow dimension thickness of the brass strips, 0.015 inch. The brass parts fit tightly between the wooden jig parts.
 
Each ladder rung was soldered on both ends to the side pieces. I placed a small drop of liquid flux in each joint and then touched the tinned tip to the joints briefly. I used a metal tool to hold the rung down until the solder hardened - otherwise it would try to lift out as the soldering iron tip was raised.
 


 
The photo on the left above shows the correct way to assemble the ladders. First an end rung was soldered between the sides at the proper end position (this varies with each ladder). Then the assembly was lifted and moved so the rung was positioned one step to the right, tightly against the spacer strip. Then the second rung was soldered in place. The assembly was lifted again and moved one place to the right. Another rung was added and so on.
 
It is very important that this sequence is followed to ensure that the spacing of all rungs is equal. Starting at the middle (as shown in the right photo above) or trying to install the end rungs first and fill in the rest later will likely result in uneven spacing.
 
After the ladders were assembled they were cleaned up with files, brushes and sandpaper to remove excess  solder. Then the ladder supports were soldered on. These were made from 0.005 inch (0.13 mm) brass strips cut from a large sheet to a scale 3 inch (0.0625 inch or 1.59 mm) width. The faces of the ladders were spaced 6 inches (152 mm) from the bulkhead surfaces. That is 0.125 inch (3.175 mm) at 1:48 scale. The long legs of the supports are 0.125 inch, and the mounting "feet" were 0.0625 inch.
 
Soldering the tiny pieces in place was a test of my patience. A drop of solder was placed on the mounting surface of the supports. I used a resistance soldering "tweezer" tool to pinch the support to the ladder side and then applied a brief current to melt the solder. This worked most of the time but a few of the pieces moved before the solder hardened and I had to remove them and start over.  But I finally got them all done.
 
 
The parts were washed with acetone to remove the solder flux and then painted with acrylic paint. After they are mounted to the deckhouses they will be painted again to touch up thin spots.
 
Before making the two ladders for the ship's mast I will need to replace the two wooden pieces at the center of the jig where the soldering is done. They became charred after repeated soldering. However, most of the black stuff you see in this area is solder flux residue. I had to clean the residue out a few times to be sure the new rung piece fit properly.

The parts on the left are a "kit" to make one of these things (on the right).
 

 
This is a 1:48 scale shipboard fire hydrant. I made the 3D model for my USS Oklahoma City 3D CAD model. I rescaled it to 1:48 for the Cape model and added a dual 1-1/2" hose attachment to the outlet as shown on the Cape blueprints.
 
Once again this is pretty small stuff! I made all of the parts out of brass rod, tube and sheet. I count 22 individual pieces in all.
 
At the top is a globe valve to shut off the flow of water. Then there is the larger strainer and collection part at lower right. Ships use sea water to fight fires, and barnacles and other marine growth form in the water intakes.  This debris can clog the fire fighting nozzles, so a strainer diverts the garbage to the large collection part. The long handle opens a valve at the end of the strainer to flush out all of the debris onto the deck.
 
 
The most difficult part was the conical strainer body. I thought about different ways to make it and decided to "machine" it out of a piece of 0.188 inch (4.8 mm) brass rod. While I was at it I decided to carve the globe valve discharge outlet and a couple of flanges from the same piece instead of trying to piece together multiple parts.
 

 

 
 
I used my 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) "hand lathe" to make the part. This is an ancient 3/8 inch electric drill I purchased in 1972 after leaving the Navy. The bushings are shot but it is still useful as a poor man's lathe. This would have been a LOT easier with a real lathe!!!!! I used files and a thin curf saw blade to carve out the piece.
 
You might think I was crazy to attempt to make this complex part using a hand drill instead of a real lathe. I would not disagree with that assessment! OK, I am crazy. But hey, it worked!!
 
 
 
 

The rest of the assembly was made of 0.039 inch (1mm) brass rod, 0.0625 inch (1,6 mm), 0.091 inch (2,3 mm), and 0/125 inch (3,2 mm) brass tubing and 0.005 (0,127 mm), 0.010 (0,25 mm) and 0.015 inch (0,38 mm) brass sheet.
 
I used an ordinary soldering iron and a resistance soldering station to assemble the parts. The resistance soldering tool has the advantage of focusing the heat in the places that the pieces fit together, and not heating the entire piece. Nevertheless, each of the 17 solder joints was reheated up to six times to allow the parts to be repositioned. 
 
This is the final assembly. It looks so good at arms length, and then I look at the macro photos and it looks like it was dredged up from the Titanic!
 
 
This is the first finished assembly. Tomorrow I will make the second piece from the kit of pieces shown in the first photo. It took a day and a half to make this assembly, but that included making the parts for the second assembly. The second part should go faster. The entire thing was made by hand using a collection of drills and files to shape the brass.
 

 

Today I added the "visor" or sun shade over the windows at the front of the O1 deckhouse.
 
The parts were made from thin brass sheet. I used a new Photo Etched Parts Bender AB-4553 from joystarttools.com (China). I saw a smaller version of this tool recommended in another thread on the Forum. I got the larger version because I will need to bend some longer pieces when I get to the equipment on the after deck of the Cape. The tool is 5.52 inches (140 mm) on the long side, and the upper part can be rotated to use the long straight edge to bend parts almost 5.5 inches long.
 
This was my first time using the tool and it worked as advertised. I made bends that were only about 1 mm (0.039 inches) wide. It was easy to use.
 
 
The small triangular support pieces were made from 0.003 inch (0.09 mm) brass sheet. For the larger surface I wanted something a bit stiffer so I used 0.0065 inch (0.14 mm) brass. This was a bit less than the scale 3/8 inch plywood used on the ship - that would b 0.0078 inch (0.2 mm). The supports were soldered to the bottom side of the visor as shown on the photo right below. The 1 mm (0.039 inch) lip along the front edges of the visor stiffened the piece. On the real ship this was a strip of wood attached to the bottom front edge of the plywood visor.
 

 
Here are a couple of photos showing the visor in place on the deckhouse.
 

 
I have been looking forward to making this piece. It was practice using the bending tool. When I get around to making all of the minesweeping gear on the after part of the ship I will be bending a lot more small parts.

vaddoc, I find your explanations fascinating; but I must admit that I am somewhat of a nerd when it comes to computers and programs such as CAD. 
 
Your model of Tally Ho is going to be splendid. Maybe someday I will have the skill to draw her out in CAD and build her as well, time will tell. 
 
In the meantime, I will follow your design and build with great interest. 

You are very right, just teasing you a bit! Lines and offsets are in reality just rough guides. In the end the wood will correct things with a few sims here and there.

Many thanks to all for visiting, commenting and hitting the like button.
I cannot resist a special mention to @Bedford: This is a boat built without these calculations. Lava chicken anyone?

Now, I know these posts are boring and probably difficult to understand but I have been diving deep into this hull and I think is best to post my progress as I go, maybe it will be of use to others in the future that may want to build a similar boat.

There are so many things going on and defining the various aspects and parts of the hull need to progress almost in parallel. You may be working on the keel and frames but then the deck needs defining which means the bulwarks need defining but then the transom needs sorting and so on. I can understand Leo when he was saying how complex it was building Tally Ho.

Back to the boat now:
I ‘ve been studying Leo’s videos and they are a treasure of information. He posted this picture of the lines of the boat. I compared it to my lines and they are not far off.

His bow is a bit more narrow, this is why his stem is 7 inches wide and mine is 8.8”. I do not know how he did it – I absolutely could not make it work without deviating too much from the plans Perhaps I followed more closely the table of offsets, whereas he seems to have followed more the lines drawing – but he had the boat! 

Up to this part, it would have actually been easier to use batons to fair the curves. But from now on, CAD really shines.

So, up to now, we have the lines of the hull, the keel, stem, sternpost and transom to the OUTSIDE of the hull. We now need however to define the INNER surface of the hull, where the frames will touch. This is extremely easy with CAD, just a command to offset the surface. The thickness of the planking is 1”3/8 to ½” but I made it 3mm to help with the build.


Now, using the inner skin, we can define the actual width and shape of the transom, as the initial shape included the thickness of the planking.

Now, we need the frames. Leo changed the thickness and made them all double frames. Projecting vertical lines on the inner skin gives us all the frames with all the outer bevels. We can then offset the inner skin even further to the thickness of the frames and do the same so now we have the inner surface of the frames with all bevels ready.

I started work on finalizing the frames. They rest on the top of the keel but also there is a pocket on the side of the keel where they slot in.

So I decided to do the same. Leo mentions there is 1 degree slope to the keel but mine is dead flat. The pockets will also be parallel to the midline, they will not follow the curvature of the hull

However, after a few frames I stopped. To define the upper end of the frames, the deck had to be made which means I had to decide the camper, that is the amount of lateral curvature of the deck.
This needed a bit of head scratching. My experience has been that the camper is fixed and applying it along the sheer, gives us a curvature that gently transitions from zero fore and aft to maximum in the middle. However, Leo did not do this. He very usefully has posted this photo.

There is still camper even at the transom. So I shamelessly copied the curvature of his deck form the profile view and asked CAD to create a surface. 


Now, this was offset to account for the thickness of the deck planking and that gave us the inner skin of the deck

It should not be difficult to find the shape of the beams later on.
 
So now there is a new sheer to account for the thickness of deck, this will also be used to trim the top of the frames



But now, it is time to deal with the bulwarks and the stanchions. Leo seems to have spend some time on this and it has been on my mind but it went very smoothly.
So the stanchions are additional pieces of wood that extend above the deck, hold planks and create the sides.

Again, Leo very usefully has posted a drawing of the “sheer” of his bulwarks.
 
This is a very interesting part of the boat. The bulwarks from the profile view follow the actual sheer. From the top view however, their "sheer" crosses the boat sheer again and again. I am not sure how exactly it is defined and what implications the different angles have but again I copied Leo's . It looks ok and I do not think I am far off



So, now that this “sheer” is defined, it is easy to ask the computer to create the surface and offset this to get the inner skin. The stanchions can easily be created in the same way as the frames.


There is an interesting element where the bulwarks meet the transom. This will be a particularly tricky area especially when the toprail will go on. 

Ok, so far all is going well. Next the bow timbers will need to be defined, I will try and follow Leo’s arrangement. Then will be the sternpost. Then to finish all the frames, arrange the transom timbers and then the beam shelf and all beams.

Regarding the beams, Leo has followed exactly Mr Strange’s arrangement except for an area in the bow, there was a wide companionway but he reduced the opening and put in an additional beam.

Regarding wood: I think it will be pear for keel, frames beams etc, maple or pear for planks, boxwood for deck, perhaps mahogany for deck structures. 
Leo used Teak for the covering boards, I may use cherry or pear for this and also for the stanchions, bulwarks and toprail. I think some suppliers provide iroko which has similar colour to teak, I have no idea if it is any good for modeling.
One thing's for sure, the wood order will be massive.

You were warned this would be long and boring!

Many thanks for visiting
Vaddoc

You are very right, just teasing you a bit! Lines and offsets are in reality just rough guides. In the end the wood will correct things with a few sims here and there.

Many thanks to all for visiting, commenting and hitting the like button.
I cannot resist a special mention to @Bedford: This is a boat built without these calculations. Lava chicken anyone?

Now, I know these posts are boring and probably difficult to understand but I have been diving deep into this hull and I think is best to post my progress as I go, maybe it will be of use to others in the future that may want to build a similar boat.

There are so many things going on and defining the various aspects and parts of the hull need to progress almost in parallel. You may be working on the keel and frames but then the deck needs defining which means the bulwarks need defining but then the transom needs sorting and so on. I can understand Leo when he was saying how complex it was building Tally Ho.

Back to the boat now:
I ‘ve been studying Leo’s videos and they are a treasure of information. He posted this picture of the lines of the boat. I compared it to my lines and they are not far off.

His bow is a bit more narrow, this is why his stem is 7 inches wide and mine is 8.8”. I do not know how he did it – I absolutely could not make it work without deviating too much from the plans Perhaps I followed more closely the table of offsets, whereas he seems to have followed more the lines drawing – but he had the boat! 

Up to this part, it would have actually been easier to use batons to fair the curves. But from now on, CAD really shines.

So, up to now, we have the lines of the hull, the keel, stem, sternpost and transom to the OUTSIDE of the hull. We now need however to define the INNER surface of the hull, where the frames will touch. This is extremely easy with CAD, just a command to offset the surface. The thickness of the planking is 1”3/8 to ½” but I made it 3mm to help with the build.


Now, using the inner skin, we can define the actual width and shape of the transom, as the initial shape included the thickness of the planking.

Now, we need the frames. Leo changed the thickness and made them all double frames. Projecting vertical lines on the inner skin gives us all the frames with all the outer bevels. We can then offset the inner skin even further to the thickness of the frames and do the same so now we have the inner surface of the frames with all bevels ready.

I started work on finalizing the frames. They rest on the top of the keel but also there is a pocket on the side of the keel where they slot in.

So I decided to do the same. Leo mentions there is 1 degree slope to the keel but mine is dead flat. The pockets will also be parallel to the midline, they will not follow the curvature of the hull

However, after a few frames I stopped. To define the upper end of the frames, the deck had to be made which means I had to decide the camper, that is the amount of lateral curvature of the deck.
This needed a bit of head scratching. My experience has been that the camper is fixed and applying it along the sheer, gives us a curvature that gently transitions from zero fore and aft to maximum in the middle. However, Leo did not do this. He very usefully has posted this photo.

There is still camper even at the transom. So I shamelessly copied the curvature of his deck form the profile view and asked CAD to create a surface. 


Now, this was offset to account for the thickness of the deck planking and that gave us the inner skin of the deck

It should not be difficult to find the shape of the beams later on.
 
So now there is a new sheer to account for the thickness of deck, this will also be used to trim the top of the frames



But now, it is time to deal with the bulwarks and the stanchions. Leo seems to have spend some time on this and it has been on my mind but it went very smoothly.
So the stanchions are additional pieces of wood that extend above the deck, hold planks and create the sides.

Again, Leo very usefully has posted a drawing of the “sheer” of his bulwarks.
 
This is a very interesting part of the boat. The bulwarks from the profile view follow the actual sheer. From the top view however, their "sheer" crosses the boat sheer again and again. I am not sure how exactly it is defined and what implications the different angles have but again I copied Leo's . It looks ok and I do not think I am far off



So, now that this “sheer” is defined, it is easy to ask the computer to create the surface and offset this to get the inner skin. The stanchions can easily be created in the same way as the frames.


There is an interesting element where the bulwarks meet the transom. This will be a particularly tricky area especially when the toprail will go on. 

Ok, so far all is going well. Next the bow timbers will need to be defined, I will try and follow Leo’s arrangement. Then will be the sternpost. Then to finish all the frames, arrange the transom timbers and then the beam shelf and all beams.

Regarding the beams, Leo has followed exactly Mr Strange’s arrangement except for an area in the bow, there was a wide companionway but he reduced the opening and put in an additional beam.

Regarding wood: I think it will be pear for keel, frames beams etc, maple or pear for planks, boxwood for deck, perhaps mahogany for deck structures. 
Leo used Teak for the covering boards, I may use cherry or pear for this and also for the stanchions, bulwarks and toprail. I think some suppliers provide iroko which has similar colour to teak, I have no idea if it is any good for modeling.
One thing's for sure, the wood order will be massive.

You were warned this would be long and boring!

Many thanks for visiting
Vaddoc

You are very right, just teasing you a bit! Lines and offsets are in reality just rough guides. In the end the wood will correct things with a few sims here and there.

Vaddoc, I get the need for these figures in the design phase and the fact that you're into them and sharing them is what this forum is all about and I know many will really appreciate your efforts.
 
The Ptarmigan I just built (full size 5mtr sail boat) will have no doubt been drafted similarly but the building of it required simple graph plotting for the shape of the frames and correct spacing of the frames. Everything flows from there bearing in mind the golden rule of boat building, a fair line supersedes any given measurement!
 
This might become apparent in the difference you have found in the width of the stem.
 
I include a picture of what I built without knowing such detail, just to show it's a tad better than the boat you demonstrated above  
 

Many thanks to all for visiting, commenting and hitting the like button.
I cannot resist a special mention to @Bedford: This is a boat built without these calculations. Lava chicken anyone?

Now, I know these posts are boring and probably difficult to understand but I have been diving deep into this hull and I think is best to post my progress as I go, maybe it will be of use to others in the future that may want to build a similar boat.

There are so many things going on and defining the various aspects and parts of the hull need to progress almost in parallel. You may be working on the keel and frames but then the deck needs defining which means the bulwarks need defining but then the transom needs sorting and so on. I can understand Leo when he was saying how complex it was building Tally Ho.

Back to the boat now:
I ‘ve been studying Leo’s videos and they are a treasure of information. He posted this picture of the lines of the boat. I compared it to my lines and they are not far off.

His bow is a bit more narrow, this is why his stem is 7 inches wide and mine is 8.8”. I do not know how he did it – I absolutely could not make it work without deviating too much from the plans Perhaps I followed more closely the table of offsets, whereas he seems to have followed more the lines drawing – but he had the boat! 

Up to this part, it would have actually been easier to use batons to fair the curves. But from now on, CAD really shines.

So, up to now, we have the lines of the hull, the keel, stem, sternpost and transom to the OUTSIDE of the hull. We now need however to define the INNER surface of the hull, where the frames will touch. This is extremely easy with CAD, just a command to offset the surface. The thickness of the planking is 1”3/8 to ½” but I made it 3mm to help with the build.


Now, using the inner skin, we can define the actual width and shape of the transom, as the initial shape included the thickness of the planking.

Now, we need the frames. Leo changed the thickness and made them all double frames. Projecting vertical lines on the inner skin gives us all the frames with all the outer bevels. We can then offset the inner skin even further to the thickness of the frames and do the same so now we have the inner surface of the frames with all bevels ready.

I started work on finalizing the frames. They rest on the top of the keel but also there is a pocket on the side of the keel where they slot in.

So I decided to do the same. Leo mentions there is 1 degree slope to the keel but mine is dead flat. The pockets will also be parallel to the midline, they will not follow the curvature of the hull

However, after a few frames I stopped. To define the upper end of the frames, the deck had to be made which means I had to decide the camper, that is the amount of lateral curvature of the deck.
This needed a bit of head scratching. My experience has been that the camper is fixed and applying it along the sheer, gives us a curvature that gently transitions from zero fore and aft to maximum in the middle. However, Leo did not do this. He very usefully has posted this photo.

There is still camper even at the transom. So I shamelessly copied the curvature of his deck form the profile view and asked CAD to create a surface. 


Now, this was offset to account for the thickness of the deck planking and that gave us the inner skin of the deck

It should not be difficult to find the shape of the beams later on.
 
So now there is a new sheer to account for the thickness of deck, this will also be used to trim the top of the frames



But now, it is time to deal with the bulwarks and the stanchions. Leo seems to have spend some time on this and it has been on my mind but it went very smoothly.
So the stanchions are additional pieces of wood that extend above the deck, hold planks and create the sides.

Again, Leo very usefully has posted a drawing of the “sheer” of his bulwarks.
 
This is a very interesting part of the boat. The bulwarks from the profile view follow the actual sheer. From the top view however, their "sheer" crosses the boat sheer again and again. I am not sure how exactly it is defined and what implications the different angles have but again I copied Leo's . It looks ok and I do not think I am far off



So, now that this “sheer” is defined, it is easy to ask the computer to create the surface and offset this to get the inner skin. The stanchions can easily be created in the same way as the frames.


There is an interesting element where the bulwarks meet the transom. This will be a particularly tricky area especially when the toprail will go on. 

Ok, so far all is going well. Next the bow timbers will need to be defined, I will try and follow Leo’s arrangement. Then will be the sternpost. Then to finish all the frames, arrange the transom timbers and then the beam shelf and all beams.

Regarding the beams, Leo has followed exactly Mr Strange’s arrangement except for an area in the bow, there was a wide companionway but he reduced the opening and put in an additional beam.

Regarding wood: I think it will be pear for keel, frames beams etc, maple or pear for planks, boxwood for deck, perhaps mahogany for deck structures. 
Leo used Teak for the covering boards, I may use cherry or pear for this and also for the stanchions, bulwarks and toprail. I think some suppliers provide iroko which has similar colour to teak, I have no idea if it is any good for modeling.
One thing's for sure, the wood order will be massive.

You were warned this would be long and boring!

Many thanks for visiting
Vaddoc