vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

So the paint has settled further and it actually looks pretty good! Especially the red and Turquoise are really nice. Some photos bellow in natural light. The hull of course is rough despite so many cycles of filling and sanding. Never use Beech!




But look what the postman dropped, all the way from the colonies across the pond!

Till next time
Vaddoc

Dear Friends
 
Another quick update to share some photos!
Mark, it is Valejo matt acrylic paint, it is just that the photo was taken immediately after the coat went on so still wet.
 
@64Pacific Thanks Scott, welcome!
 
@KeithAug Keith, I do not think Humbrol enamels will be arround for long so if you use enamels, stock up. I bought some of the enamel varnish.
 
So I carried on with painting. The white paint has exceptionally poor coverage. I must have put on 15 coats, not with the greatest of care I must admit. But it came out alright - modern paints are so forgiving. I am not sure what the shiny areas are but it does not matter, these should disappear after varnishing.
 
I then masked again and added the red waterline. The red color has much better coverage


I could have sanded the paint but I decided not to bother. Also, I should have first painted the red zone, mask and then paint over. I did not really pay much attention but in the end it came out fine, I just had to mask and remask again and again.
 
Then, I added the turquoise - very nice color, excellent coverage. I was more careful this time and came out much better.

 



There is a masking line that shows, I masked without thinking. I could have sanded it off but did not bother, it actually looks ok.
I will now give it a couple more days for the paint to cure and then I will protect the paint with enamel Humbrol varnish. I am dissapointed with the water based ones - Poor adhesion and not as hard.
 
So next I started work on the rudder. In the plans it is only 1.5 inch thick - that is 4 mm in the model. So I made a card template and cut three pieces to laminate

Waiting for epoxy to cure - then the rudder will be painted in same colors.
 
Take care all
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

Well, as we all know time is relative so I guess two and a half years since my last post is not a long time! Ladies and gentlemen, the Launch is back in drydock.
 
During this time I ve been working on the Yawl. Now, both boats have hulls made of beech wood so the Launch suffered the same fate. The planks constantly change dimensions in response to changes in moisture and shrunk a lot reaching equilibrium after initial steaming. Beech has huge movement in service. 
 
However, the Launch faired better, I think because the planks are not as acutely bent as in the Yawl so did not need so much steaming and boiling. The filler between the planks is almost intact and the planks have moved in only a few areas. In the bow some nails seem to have failed.



These need to be fixed and the hull needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent movement as much as possible. However, I plan to paint the hull so I will use filler more extensively to smooth it out a bit, since paint will highlight every single imperfection.
 
So I drilled some nails out, push the planks in place and things improved.


Then, I applied filler very generously. I nowadays use Osmo, it dries very quickly, does not shrink, is hard but still sands very nicely. This is where we are now.

We rarely know what our future holds but mine certainly has a lot of sanding.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc
 

To all that visited and hit the like button, much appreciated!
 
@KeithAug All in good time Keith! Many thanks
 
@Bedford Thanks for the good words Bedford, please have a look at the photo bellow. The note writes "1/2" rod". 
 
I simply cannot figure it out. The lines cannot go straight to the gunwales as this would be pretty inconvenient. Getting the lines towards the floor does not provide enough leverage as tilting the tiller will only pull the rope so much, not enough to turn the short tiller at the stern all the way.
 

 

To all that visited and hit the like button, much appreciated!
 
@KeithAug All in good time Keith! Many thanks
 
@Bedford Thanks for the good words Bedford, please have a look at the photo bellow. The note writes "1/2" rod". 
 
I simply cannot figure it out. The lines cannot go straight to the gunwales as this would be pretty inconvenient. Getting the lines towards the floor does not provide enough leverage as tilting the tiller will only pull the rope so much, not enough to turn the short tiller at the stern all the way.
 

 

To all that visited and hit the like button, much appreciated!
 
@KeithAug All in good time Keith! Many thanks
 
@Bedford Thanks for the good words Bedford, please have a look at the photo bellow. The note writes "1/2" rod". 
 
I simply cannot figure it out. The lines cannot go straight to the gunwales as this would be pretty inconvenient. Getting the lines towards the floor does not provide enough leverage as tilting the tiller will only pull the rope so much, not enough to turn the short tiller at the stern all the way.
 

 

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

To all that visited and hit the like button, much appreciated!
 
@KeithAug All in good time Keith! Many thanks
 
@Bedford Thanks for the good words Bedford, please have a look at the photo bellow. The note writes "1/2" rod". 
 
I simply cannot figure it out. The lines cannot go straight to the gunwales as this would be pretty inconvenient. Getting the lines towards the floor does not provide enough leverage as tilting the tiller will only pull the rope so much, not enough to turn the short tiller at the stern all the way.
 

 

So I thought that I would give into peer pressure a bit and give the mirrors a try. I had bought a package of locker mirrors for my Cairo display and had a couple left over, so I used one here as a test. Since the hull is pretty hefty I didn't want to make it too top heavy, so I made up a base that is the length of the hull and slightly narrower and set the pedestals at 2" high. You have to get at the right angle to see the underside properly, and when viewing from the port side, only the starboard rudders and Korts can be seen and visa versa. However, when viewing from the stern, all the details are visible. With the black hull the lighting also has to be right to reflect upward and highlight the features. Apologies for the blurry mirror images, I could not get my camera to focus on the hull and the mirror at the same time.
 
Looking to get an opinion from everyone, should I go with the mirror or scrap the idea?
 

 
-Brian

Hello again everyone, it has been way too long since my last update. I have been busy, I have just been dealing with computer problems. My old laptop decided to give up the ghost so I had to purchase a new one. Well after being a Windows guy for 30 years, I finally converted to the dark side and got a Mac. I knew there would be a learning curve to get used to a new style of computering, but it took me little longer than I had planned to get things moved over from my old laptop and figure out how to use the new style of apps. But I persevered and finally got it all moved over and I am ready to go. So pull up a chair, grab a drink and get ready for a major photo dump of progress.
 
So on my last update I was having difficulty trying to solder my railings and had decided to go with the styrene method. While I pondered how to do the small railing on top of the pilothouse, I worked on the lower sections of railing. Here is the railing that surrounds the pilothouse going together.
I couldn't get the small jig that I had previously made up to get a consistent results, and I was having a hard time getting the stanchions to stand straight up. So I made up a different jig that had slots cut in at the correct spacing and clamped the two halves together. This held the vertical stanchions perfectly upright and steady while I glued the top rail in place. Once this section was complete I removed the section of railing, placed it on my mat then used a small piece of scrap wood cut to the correct spacing to add the lower rail. I forgot to take pictures of this part, but in the next picture you can see a couple of the pieces of scrap wood on the railing show how it was spaced.

More of the lower deck railings.

 
Then it was on to the smaller railing. I took @KeithAug advice of making a jig with my Xtool to frame up the ladder as a test piece. 
So far so good. Then I cut the brass rod pieces and placed them into the jig.

 
I decided to give the solder paste a try, and it didn't let me down. This was so much easier than trying to flux and solder the pieces together in the jig.


After a little filing and cleanup I am very pleased with the outcome.

 
Since the ladder was a success, I decided to use the solder paste on the pilothouse railing. For this one, I made up another jig that gave me the proper spacing for the height of the rail and soldered each stanchion one by one.

Again, I am completely satisfied with the results. Now I'll just need to tie the ladder in with the railing, but that will have to come once I get the decks secured in place.

 
After competing the railing, it was time to work on the hull features. I wanted to get everything on the underside of the hull done so I could get it mounted to a temporary base and work on everything upright. So I started with the Korts and wheels. On my previous post I had already cut and shaped the Korts and temp mounted them in place. Now it was time to install the fairings where they tie to the hull. Nothing out of the ordinary here, just cut a few pieces of wood sheets to match the contour of the Korts and hull.

Then I made a couple of plugs with centering holes so that I knew where to align the wheel shafts.

The centering plugs also helped me mark where the wheel shafts will penetrate the hull.

Once the penetration points were marked, it was time to do a little drilling.

Wheel shafts temp installed to test their alignment.

Then the wheel shafts were cut and mock wheels made to make sure that I had the centering and clearances correct.

 
Once the holes were drilled and the shafts cut, it was time to work on the shaft supports. I cut out several pieces to layer up the supports and carve them down.

Three layers was just about right, now its time to carve them down.

Roughly shaped, and testing the fit.

This is the look that I am going for.

 
On to the wheels. I used the mock patterns that I had previously made to align each blade. I made the hub in the same manner that I made the supports. I cut out several layers  and sanded them to shape. I didn't take pictures of this process as well, but you can see end results of the hubs in this photo. I then cut out another pattern of the wheels and separated the blades from the hub and proceeded to glue them at the proper angle on the shaped hubs.

One of the completed wheels.

And temp installed in the Kort. Just a little sanding, shaping and paint and they should be good.

 
Next it was time to work on the rudders. I started with the main rudders. These were cut from pieces of wood sheeting. I didn't have any materials thick enough for the completed rudder so I layered these as well. Here is the initial shape. 

The two layers glued together.

Shaping to get the correct contour. 

 
Rudders temp installed to test their alignment. I also threw in another little detail with the addition of a galvanic anodes. These were place in various places along the hull, rudder and Korts to help with corrosion prevention.
 
Time for the flanking rudders. Same process, these were also cut out of wood sheets, but there is not any contour to these. They are fairly flat and need to have a narrow profile since they are rarely used when the boat is going forward. This low profile reduces drag and prevents the disruption of water flow through the Korts. There is some cross bracing to help stabilize any flex from the water flowing across it. Here is the initial pattern.

Cross bracing installed.

More bracing. This is used to streamline the water flow around the rudder shaft.

More galvanic anodes installed on these rudders as well. 

All four rudders completed.

While perusing the internet for more study material I ran across an another little detail that was built into the boats. I'm not sure what it's called and my searches were coming up empty, but that is not saying much because its sometimes hard to look something up if you don't know what to call it. Anyway, I noticed from some of the videos of towboats in dry dock that there was this fairing attached to aft section of the hull. My best guess is that its purpose is to help keep the turbulent water from coming over the aft deck. So I glued on a thin strip of wood and installed these very tiny gussets cut from .020 ABS sheets.
 
Here are the gussets.

Gussets going in.

The finished fairing
 
 
Time to get it all premiered up and ready for some paint.

And more galvanic anodes going in.


Next up was the installation of the coil coolers. These were radiators of sorts installed on the hull sides that uses river water to cool copper fins that circulate engine and clutch oil through. The coolers are mounted recessed in the hull and a protective grill installed on the outside to protect the fins from river debris.
 
Here are the cooling fins that I cut out on the laser cutter.

Recesses cut into the hull for the cooling fins.

Fins installed in the hull


Here is the protective grill alongside the hull and coolers. These will get attached after the hull is painted and the cooler fins coated with a touch of copper paint.

Painting of the hull, wheels and rudders.


 
Flanking rudders installed.

Main rudders temp installed to test for clearance.

Port rudders aligned

All rudders installed and anodes painted up.

Up close shots showing details.


 
Time to flip it over and install the coil cooler guards. It wasn't until I posted this photo that I noticed the gap in the wood planks on the hull. I'll need to go back and fix that.

 
Here she is in her correct, upright position with all decks sitting in place.

 
One final feature that was almost completed that I wanted to add to this update was the construction of the stacks.
 
I started with a basic framework of a base and top with a center support to maintain the correct height of the stacks.

Then it was time to cover the frame with strips of wood. Here is the first strip going in.

More progress. Starting to take shape.

Completely covered with a light sanding to smooth out the edges of the planks.

Here is the cap and fairing that will sit on top of the stack

The two pieces assembled.

And the cap installed on the stack and a final sanding.

Both stacks completed and temp installed.

Another view. I will take these and cover them with some body filler to fill in the gaps and give the top pairing its final shape. Hopefully that will be done by my next update .

 
Well that is it for this update, I hope to be a little more timely with my next one. Thank you all for sticking with me on this and stopping by. As always I appreciate all the kind words and input.
 
-Brian
 

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

Update
 
all portholes with glassings, all doors with doorknobs and wall boxes for rolled up fire hoses are mounted to the deck housing
 
Nils

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Update
 
made the removeable deck-house together with hand rails and lightshafts with seatight hinged covers. After primering painting the deckhouse  portholes were inserted. Also the aft bulkhead was fitted out with two doors and portholes therein .... Slowly its getting shape
 
Nils
 

the making of the deckhouse

the handrails are from brass wire. There are 5 screws that position and hold down the deckhouse to the deck

 

Dechhouse with portholes

there are 10 lightshafts around the deckhouse, The doors will be next

 
 

Update
 
made the updated forecastle bulkhead and support for the front mast, also the seawater tight access doors. The mushroom-anchor chain end will be connected to the ringspring buffer element on deck
 
Nils

Update 
 
Yesterday I finaly got the lettering done and positioned as intended. This morning I placed all the portholes (painted in hull color, and now all is prepared fore doing the porthole-glassing. The upper row of the forecastle is glassed already. I use 3mm OD silicone transparent cord for the glassing, glue the bits in with CA and cut off from outside square to the porthole face
 
Nils

 

 

 

 

 
the lettering at the stern (aft) is made from 5mm high white adhesive stickers
 

 

 
 

Thanks for your idea Veszett, I`ll keep that in mind .....
meanwhile I finished the semi gloss black part, nice clean paint borderline ( credit to Tamiya masking tape ), and removed the propeller before doing the paint job
 
Nils
 

 
 
 
 

Thank you very much Lefebvre, John and Richard,
 
Lefebvre,
yes, its a pitty that this happened, but that paint does not allow reasonable corrections after this happened during spraying. I already tried my best to mend it.
 
John,
I think I`ll leave it as is, because heavy paint corrections will make things worse. I`ll take it as a rough touch with the kay wall in the harbor longer ago
 
Richard,
now the time has come to start with the decals for ELBE 1
I did the masking off for the sub waterline black coating, and fitted the ships name and homeport with small 5mm high white sticker letters, that I had already bought earlier for this purpose. It worked well, and I had left the space on the hull rounding there without "rivets"
Many, many thanks to you again for your kind help in encouraging me to do my own decals. I have received white decal paper for inc-jet printing, but am still eagerly waiting for the decal softener to arrive
 
Nils

the ship`s name is "Bürgermeister Oswald" and the homeport is the town Cuxhaven at the mouth of the Elbe river

to date I hve had good results with Tamiya masking tape

The painted bow-sprit bumpkin in place

both waist railings are fitted

both the stb. side hall-anchor and the mushroom-anchor are fitted

Update
 
except for the black underwater coating I´ve  got the paint on. I think that I will never again apply this bright red signal coating. Once a mistake is made ( I sprayed over several tmes) it ca`nt be corrected propperly. Unfortunately I did not see that the paint started running on the far side.  I did`nt hesitate to carefully wipe off the concerned area with a soft cloth, but the red paint had also solved the underneath primer. Now there are some ugly patches on the stb. side. Hopefully I`ll get that mended a bit later on, if not it will conncidered as wear effect,  with other paints on other models I never ran into such trouble with the paint coat before, and I was so pleased that before that all had worked out well so far.
 
Nils

Port view and front view is all OK


here the ugly patches (aft stb.  and stb. mid side )

 
 

Update
 
the upper forecastle portholes are mounted after plating this area, and  the Stb waist reling is dry fitted.  Also the area for the sprit bumpkin and its fastening eyebolts and stays.
Aft deck the template for the breakwater is being estimated for fit. I am eager to get all the hull-related plating complete in order to continue with the painting job and the ELBE 1 name decals.
For making the decals I got a great support from another MSW fellow builder. Here credit and thanks go to "Retired Guy", Richard for all his help. That gave me confidence to try and make my own decals instead of using larger sticker letters ( problems with the structured hull surface )
 
Nils

The Railing is from Aronaut- Modellbau in brass and nickel  plated. the wooden fastening rail underneath is to get the correct hight

 

 

 

the aft breakwater will be mounted in this area. The blank space in the plating ( aft round between the rails ) will take up the 5mm small sticker-letters for the name "Bürgermeister Oswald" and the homeport "Cuxhaven" after painting.