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Spiling : Compass vs Dividers


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I am attempting my first try at spiling planks. I’ve tried to use a compass to transfer the shape of the previous plank or batten to a card but am getting inconsistent results due to trying to hold the metal compass point against the previous plank because the compass point is not a sharply define point; iin addition the compass lead is too hard to easily mark a line. I even tried to mark smaller points at each bulkhead instead of a continuous line. I am considering changing the lead in the compass to a softer lead and maybe sharpening the metal point of the compass. I’ve also thought of not using a compass at all but just using a pair of dividers and pricking a small hole in the card at every bulkhead and then connecting the pin holes with my plastic ships curve to recreate the curve of the previous plank or batten. Any thoughts on how to best to proceed?
 

 

Current build: Armed Virginia Sloop

Previous Builds: , Amati Fifie, Glad Tidings,Bluenose II, Chesapeake Bay Skipjack, Fair American, Danmark, Constitution Cross Section, Bluenose 

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Consider using tick strips and divide the space with the strip laid flat - it's a lot easier! I gave up using compasses, dividers and proportional dividers years ago. Also, thread attached with white glue dots instead of battens are much, much easier to use. Check the planking tutorials on this site. for details.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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I use tick strips to get the measurements at each bulkhead for each belt. I do not use a fan to compute the individual plank locations and then mark the bulkhead edge with a thin pencil as I find it to be inaccurate because my hands are not steady when placing the marks. I prefer to use proportional dividers incrementally reducing the plank count as I progress, as I feel it adjusts for slight errors which otherwise would propagate when planking each belt. I agree, I find using a thread with white glue to be easier to use when defining and fine tuning the belt locations. My problem is in correctly defining the curve of the previous plank when spiling is indicated. Otherwise straight edged planks generally work with some degree of edge bending. However this does not always seem to be the case, and I am trying to be more precise when that situation arises.

Current build: Armed Virginia Sloop

Previous Builds: , Amati Fifie, Glad Tidings,Bluenose II, Chesapeake Bay Skipjack, Fair American, Danmark, Constitution Cross Section, Bluenose 

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Try this.  Lay a piece of paper over the previous plank and gently rub a pencil along the edge.  This will give you the exact shape of the previous row and you can use that as a template for the next plank.

Toni


Chairman Nautical Research Guild

Member Nautical Research and Model Society

Member Midwest Model Shipwrights

 

Current Builds:     NRG Rigging Project

Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale       HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale       Half Hull Planking Project      Capstan Project     Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale               Echo Cross Section   

Gallery:  Hannah - 1:36 scale.

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I have been continuously spilling and planking for the last 12 months, maybe the following thread might be of help.

 

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Thanks for posting your spiling information Vaddoc.   What type of glue are you using?  The reason I ask is that as you have spiled the planks so well, a minute of holding the plank in place with PVA normally suffices without the need to use clamps which sometimes dents the plank.   

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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I do not use glue for the planks Allan, I initially screw the planks on the frames with 1 mm screws and then replace the screws with treenails (dipped in PVA). These clamps will not dent the wood, this is 2 mm beech which is very hard but even with the softer maple, denting has never been an issue. 

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Thanks Vaddoc.  This reminds of a build of a large rated vessel I saw years ago that was exquisite and used no glue, only treenails.   It can be done!!!

Allan

 

 

 

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/1/2022 at 8:49 PM, vaddoc said:

I do not use glue for the planks Allan, I initially screw the planks on the frames with 1 mm screws and then replace the screws with treenails (dipped in PVA). These clamps will not dent the wood, this is 2 mm beech which is very hard but even with the softer maple, denting has never been an issue. 

Sir, what are the clips you are using called? They initially look like "bulldog clips" but they have another part on one side that looks like they hold the plank down while the edge of the "spring body" holds it tight against the other plank.  Where did you source them? Thanks!

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They are bulldog clips that have been modified. You need 3 bulldog clips to make 2 of the modified clips. Take the wings off one clip and fit one into each of what will become the modified clips . You can also modify wooden clothes pins to do the same thing by filing a notch into the end of the clips. 

Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways

Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake

On the Shelf - English Pinnace

                        18Th Century Longboat

 

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On 4/14/2022 at 8:47 AM, vaddoc said:

Hi @USNCHief013107

These are the clips, they come in various sizes.

You can never have enough clamps!

 

Rapesco 1492 19 mm Foldback Clips, Assorted Bright Colours, Pack of 80 : Amazon.co.uk: Stationery & Office Supplies

AWESOME!!!! I have a box or two so more will be ordered!!! Thanks vaddoc and Oldsalt1950.

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