catopower

Problem is going to be that this kit is out of production. Even Expo, which does not appear to sell AL kits can't provide parts that don't exist.
 
The missing parts should be laser-cut parts, and if you have the sheet they came from, then you have a pretty solid outline of the parts and can simply reproduce them. That's the beauty of working in wood.
 
 

Close to finishing this up while I await parts for continuing the Philly build.
Completed the funnel stays, fore and aft masts and mounted the lifeboats. All that's left are the anchors, davits, ventilator (on order- should be here this week) and the spar torpedo (under construction).
The display case will be here this week, then I'll attempt the water base.
Big change from working on the Philly... 

Hi all,
   I started this kit about two years ago, and in the general workbench confusion that reigns in my shop I thought I lost ALL the rest of the parts to finish it up, so I put it in the "finish later" pile. Lo and behold, when digging for other stuff I unearthed most of the missing parts... the cutters especially. The Verlinden 1:200 ironclad series (about 5 kits, I think) are absolutely flawless resin castings with no flash, blobs or bubbles. The dimensions are about 12" long (with spar torpedo), 2.75" wide and 2.5" tall (with masts). I think they're out of production, but they're out there for less than $100 if you hunt around. They are simple waterline kits, with a one piece hull and only about 10 other resin parts. Since I've already completed most of the time consuming work, I've decided to finish this while I continue on my Philly. 
 
   CSS Palmetto State was one of about 22 ironclads built or commissioned by the South in the Civil War, and were generally outclassed and outnumbered by their Union counterparts. The South just didn't have the materials or industrial capacity to have parity with the Union, but they sure came up with some creative and interesting designs using what they had on hand. Here's a brief history of the CSS Palmetto State.
 
Things I will need to do to finish it are:
 
Straighten up the PE railings (aftermarket, from a 1:350 Bismarck PE add-on kit)
Finish adding the rope for the gunport covers
Add the anchors and anchor davits with appropriate rigging
Add battened masts, oars and sails inside the cutters and tie them down to the molded mounts
Add four guy wires to the funnel
Add a ventilator, whistle and cook stove chimney on the upper deck
Add a short bow and stern pennant mast with pennants
Add two masts to the ends of the upper deck with associated rigging (very simple... three lines each)
Build the bow spar torpedo, mount and rig it in stowed position
 
   I'm going to mount it in a clear plastic case meant for 1:18 auto diecasts.  The case I selected has a clear bottom, and the inside measurements are about 13" x 5". I'm planning on painting the underside of the clear base with a murky water pattern and then use clear gloss Mod Podge medium to simulate ripples on the top of the base around the ship. I may include a dock section, it depends on how much room I have and if it will not detract from the model.
 
Here's where it stands now, I'm sorry I don't have any previous in process pictures, but I'll continue this as a build log and post progress as it happens.
 

 
 

Finished up with those nails and they look okay. Not perfect – I have to work on technique there. But, they'll do.
 
Adding a rope around the sagari, the tassle hanging from the tip of the stem. I wanted this to be a bit decorative, so I found some white linen line and used gouache to color it. So far, this has produced the brightest colors.
 
Main problem right now is that I seemed to have misplace the kit instructions!
 
Not a total loss, as I've built the Higaki Kaisen kit, which  is very similar, and I'm at the stage were I'm basically going to rig the mast and sail. That part is pretty much identical to the Higaki Kaisen kit. Also, I have the instructions for that kit, should I need to reference something.
 
Not sure how I'm going to handle the sail. I'd like to add a bow sail – don't know what the Japanese term is for this. Probably an omote no ho, which is the equivalent of "face" or "bow" sail. Have to figure out how to mount that one.
 
Also, I want the bow sail and the main sail to match in terms of material and construction. Since I'm going to have to scratch build the bow sail, I think I'm going to have to do the same with the main sail. Luckily, I just had some sail sewing practice for two other projects, so I'm fairly ready for this one.
 
Only question is how detailed and accurate I'm going to make these sails. The real sails are make up of some 18 narrow vertical panels that are laced together. Several panels make up a group that is more loosely laced to the next group. A total of maybe 4 groups then make up the main sail. This lacing will open up the gap between the panels, spilling air when the wind gusts, making them effectively self reefing. Not sure if I can really reproduce this appearance at this scale. But, I need to try.
 
I found a couple photos that help to illustrated what I mean about the way Japanese sails are made. These were posted last year by member marcjp in Bob Riddoch's Higaki Kaisen build log, but they really help out here.
 
If you look closely, you can see how the vertical panels are separate pieces that are laced together. Note the division of panels at the base of the mast.
 

Anyway, this is what I'm starting to work on now, making sails that reflect or simulate these details. 
 
The sails provided in the kit are actually very good, and they have a printed pattern that gives them a bit of this effect. In fact, someone was amazed when they saw the sails on my Higaki Kaisen model, thinking I had sewn them. So, they must look pretty convincing on their own.
 
Clare
 
 

Hi Chuck,
 
I think I can get by with simply covering those ends over. There is actually a piece that's supposed to cover the ends, and that, in turn, will be underneath the stern castle structure, so I don't think it will be a problem. But, when it comes to it, who knows? I may just trim those ends off anyway. 
 
On the nails, I actually painted mine a dark gray, adding a bit of 3 to the 30. But, Druxey had a good idea about using a Pigma marker pen. I've already committed to painting and didn't want to change horses mid-stream. Should work and might make a quick job of the nail heads.

Chuck, yes, I thinned everything.
 
Just for the record, the paints included in the kit are artist acrylics. They are from a Polish company called Renesans. In the early days of these boxed laser-cut kits, they just included the paint tubes. Later, I think Shipyard bought it cheaper in bulk and filled their own jars.
 
Just curious, which color numbers come in the Wütender Hund kit?
 
Clare

Excellent info, thank you Chris!

Today, I painted the red sheild on the sail. It was definitely challenging painting right up to the inside of the printed lines of the pattern. 
 
As you can see, I started by working out the edges of the pattern first, then filled in the middle. 
 

The red paint included in the kit is a very, very intense red. the instructions weren't very clear on painting the red color. But, when I look back, I think it is trying to say to mix it with the sail color mix I made earlier. However, I also wanted to darken it a bit. So, I made a batch of red, mixed with the sail color mixture, and added a dab of black paint to it. I wasn't sure how this would look, but I think it works okay.
 

The above image shows the shield painted with what looks like a key image. Definitely a challenge, but I really enjoyed the painting task. 
 
One thing I ended up with is a bit of the red color bleeding through to the back side. I tried painting this out on the back with the sail color, which seems to be working okay, for the most part.
 
Next, I have to paint the checkerboard pattern along the edges of the sail. Also, I finished prepping the next couple planks which I'll also be adding to the hull.
 
Clare

Hi Chuck, glad you've started anyway. 
 
Yes, I mentioned earlier in my build log that I found I had to thin down the 03 paint so that the lines showed through. Also, that I found it works best to let this dry 24 hours before applying the next color.
 
The streaks that are formed by the brush strokes seem to be normal and I have found that they mostly end up looking a bit like wood grain. Once you get past the fact that they're actually brush strokes, you'll see it that way.
 
My paint ratio mixture is approximate. I just made a batch of the mixture, so that I'd have some generally consistent color mix. But, if you read my notes on the build, you'll see that I actually made a couple different shades. 
 
The Hanse Kogge kit does have me add any green to the finish. I think that's a way to get a more naturally weathered look. After applying that final wash (again giving each paint layer 24 hours to dry), I think everything will kind of blend together a little better.
 
Clare

Finished up with those nails and they look okay. Not perfect – I have to work on technique there. But, they'll do.
 
Adding a rope around the sagari, the tassle hanging from the tip of the stem. I wanted this to be a bit decorative, so I found some white linen line and used gouache to color it. So far, this has produced the brightest colors.
 
Main problem right now is that I seemed to have misplace the kit instructions!
 
Not a total loss, as I've built the Higaki Kaisen kit, which  is very similar, and I'm at the stage were I'm basically going to rig the mast and sail. That part is pretty much identical to the Higaki Kaisen kit. Also, I have the instructions for that kit, should I need to reference something.
 
Not sure how I'm going to handle the sail. I'd like to add a bow sail – don't know what the Japanese term is for this. Probably an omote no ho, which is the equivalent of "face" or "bow" sail. Have to figure out how to mount that one.
 
Also, I want the bow sail and the main sail to match in terms of material and construction. Since I'm going to have to scratch build the bow sail, I think I'm going to have to do the same with the main sail. Luckily, I just had some sail sewing practice for two other projects, so I'm fairly ready for this one.
 
Only question is how detailed and accurate I'm going to make these sails. The real sails are make up of some 18 narrow vertical panels that are laced together. Several panels make up a group that is more loosely laced to the next group. A total of maybe 4 groups then make up the main sail. This lacing will open up the gap between the panels, spilling air when the wind gusts, making them effectively self reefing. Not sure if I can really reproduce this appearance at this scale. But, I need to try.
 
I found a couple photos that help to illustrated what I mean about the way Japanese sails are made. These were posted last year by member marcjp in Bob Riddoch's Higaki Kaisen build log, but they really help out here.
 
If you look closely, you can see how the vertical panels are separate pieces that are laced together. Note the division of panels at the base of the mast.
 

Anyway, this is what I'm starting to work on now, making sails that reflect or simulate these details. 
 
The sails provided in the kit are actually very good, and they have a printed pattern that gives them a bit of this effect. In fact, someone was amazed when they saw the sails on my Higaki Kaisen model, thinking I had sewn them. So, they must look pretty convincing on their own.
 
Clare
 
 

And now for something completely different...
 
Decide that while I'm moving slowly and carefully forward on the hull planking, I'd take a moment to start working on the painting of the sails. 
 
There's a single square sail on the ship, with a bonnet laced to the bottom, making 2 pieces to the sail.
 
The sail will be painted with red checkerboard pattern along the sides, and a red shield in the center, bearing a key-shaped pattern.
 
The sail cloth is first painted with a mixture forming a dirty beige color, which actually looks very good for a weather cloth look. In the photo below, you can see where I've painted most of the main sail, but the left side and the bonnet have yet to be painted.

The instructions weren't very clear here and I just assumed it was best to paint the whole sail with this mixture first before painting the red markings. I think the beige undercoat will help keep the red paint from bleeding through a lot. Though, maybe it should be allowed to bleed through completely?
 
Anyway, having fun and will start painting the red patterns tomorrow.
 
Clare

Hi Chuck,
 
I think I can get by with simply covering those ends over. There is actually a piece that's supposed to cover the ends, and that, in turn, will be underneath the stern castle structure, so I don't think it will be a problem. But, when it comes to it, who knows? I may just trim those ends off anyway. 
 
On the nails, I actually painted mine a dark gray, adding a bit of 3 to the 30. But, Druxey had a good idea about using a Pigma marker pen. I've already committed to painting and didn't want to change horses mid-stream. Should work and might make a quick job of the nail heads.

Finished up the painting of the sail. Was a nice break from planking – I understood what I was doing, for the most part!
 

I have a slight issue showing up with the hull planking – the plank ends at the stern shouldn't be overlapping the sternpost like this. Looking ahead in the instructions, it doesn't like like this should cause any problems, but seeing this as your building the model is a little troubling.

Meanwhile, planking the hull continues. As you have seen, I'm high up enough on the hull that the inboard side of the planks are becoming exposed, so they have to painted prior to installation.
 
Note that the stem (and hence the bow) is on the right.

So, the planking continues and I'm now preparing the deck for installation.
 

Chuck, yes, I thinned everything.
 
Just for the record, the paints included in the kit are artist acrylics. They are from a Polish company called Renesans. In the early days of these boxed laser-cut kits, they just included the paint tubes. Later, I think Shipyard bought it cheaper in bulk and filled their own jars.
 
Just curious, which color numbers come in the Wütender Hund kit?
 
Clare

Excellent info, thank you Chris!

Today, I painted the red sheild on the sail. It was definitely challenging painting right up to the inside of the printed lines of the pattern. 
 
As you can see, I started by working out the edges of the pattern first, then filled in the middle. 
 

The red paint included in the kit is a very, very intense red. the instructions weren't very clear on painting the red color. But, when I look back, I think it is trying to say to mix it with the sail color mix I made earlier. However, I also wanted to darken it a bit. So, I made a batch of red, mixed with the sail color mixture, and added a dab of black paint to it. I wasn't sure how this would look, but I think it works okay.
 

The above image shows the shield painted with what looks like a key image. Definitely a challenge, but I really enjoyed the painting task. 
 
One thing I ended up with is a bit of the red color bleeding through to the back side. I tried painting this out on the back with the sail color, which seems to be working okay, for the most part.
 
Next, I have to paint the checkerboard pattern along the edges of the sail. Also, I finished prepping the next couple planks which I'll also be adding to the hull.
 
Clare

Hi Chuck, glad you've started anyway. 
 
Yes, I mentioned earlier in my build log that I found I had to thin down the 03 paint so that the lines showed through. Also, that I found it works best to let this dry 24 hours before applying the next color.
 
The streaks that are formed by the brush strokes seem to be normal and I have found that they mostly end up looking a bit like wood grain. Once you get past the fact that they're actually brush strokes, you'll see it that way.
 
My paint ratio mixture is approximate. I just made a batch of the mixture, so that I'd have some generally consistent color mix. But, if you read my notes on the build, you'll see that I actually made a couple different shades. 
 
The Hanse Kogge kit does have me add any green to the finish. I think that's a way to get a more naturally weathered look. After applying that final wash (again giving each paint layer 24 hours to dry), I think everything will kind of blend together a little better.
 
Clare

And now for something completely different...
 
Decide that while I'm moving slowly and carefully forward on the hull planking, I'd take a moment to start working on the painting of the sails. 
 
There's a single square sail on the ship, with a bonnet laced to the bottom, making 2 pieces to the sail.
 
The sail will be painted with red checkerboard pattern along the sides, and a red shield in the center, bearing a key-shaped pattern.
 
The sail cloth is first painted with a mixture forming a dirty beige color, which actually looks very good for a weather cloth look. In the photo below, you can see where I've painted most of the main sail, but the left side and the bonnet have yet to be painted.

The instructions weren't very clear here and I just assumed it was best to paint the whole sail with this mixture first before painting the red markings. I think the beige undercoat will help keep the red paint from bleeding through a lot. Though, maybe it should be allowed to bleed through completely?
 
Anyway, having fun and will start painting the red patterns tomorrow.
 
Clare

Wasn't Paul Lynde in the center? 
 
Chuck, I hope you will start a build log. I'm curious about the differences between the Hanse Kogge and the Wütender Hund.
 
And, I think the proper line would be: There's no need to fear. Unter Hund is here!

Chuck, if your's is Under Dog, does that make mine Shoeshine Boy?
 

Hi etubino,
 
No, the only "tools" in the kit are the brushes I showed in the photos. 
 
I don't exactly know that the tools is that is shown in that picture. A tiny awl, maybe? I plan on simply using a sewing needle to make holes large enough to pass thread through. Probably soak the end of the thread with thin CA glue and then cut a sharp tip after the glue has dried, giving the thread a built-in needle.
 
Clare

Chuck, I saw the order come through at Ages of Sail, but didn't make the connection that it was you!
 
Didn't it get dropped off this afternoon?
 
Clare

Thanks, VTHokiEE. I mostly have been using contact cement applied to both surfaces to be glued together. But, unlike the usual use of this type of cement, I put the pieces together right away. Otherwise, once the parts are together, they're stuck for good. Of course, this is the reason I had the slippage that needed repair. I just wasn't careful enough to make sure the glue had set well enough before moving on.
 
Hi Chuck, if you're talking scratch building, then sure, a "multimedia" model would be fine. There are some beautiful examples of that here on MSW. But, with these Shipyard laser-cut kits, I don't see the point, at least as far as these kits go, since the parts are already so nicely made. 
 
Now, the paper kits made by Shipyard feature a similar laser-cut card stock frame, and since planks aren't pre-cut for you in most of the kits, I could see trying to plank them using wood veneer. 
 
They also published what they called "Super Modellar Plans", which is a set of plans, plus laser-cut frame and basic hull covering. You're expected to build the rest of the model up from there, including the planking. I've thought one of these might be nice planked with veneer. I have one of these, the Spanish frigate Santa Leocadia. The frames are assembled, but I haven't decided if I want to do anything with it yet.
 
On this latter set, I should point out that they don't produce or sell these any more. However, I have seen them on a Polish card model shop, which I have ordered from in the past, gpm.pl. 
 
 
 
 

Another short update on the Hanse Kogge. 
 
I've been working on the lapstrake planking and reached the point where it was time to add the keel. Seems like it's not much work done. But, in fact, the keel is made up of the main keel and the knees, if that's the proper term, for the base of the stem and stern posts. Plus, the keel is made up of three separate layers that have to be glued together and each of the knees are made up of five layers. The middle layer of each of the knees is slightly different than the other layers, so that together, they create a notch that later pieces will fit into. This seemed kind of clever to me.
 
I pre-painted the necessary pieces and glued them up. Later, I touched up the paint a bit and then glued them to the hull. I also did the same with the keel at the same time, as I wanted to make sure everything fit correctly and that there were no gaps between the parts.
 

I always find it confusing and have to double check which direction the ship is facing. Even here, as I'm writing, I have to stop and check. The bow is on the left in the photo above.
 
Today I discovered that a couple plank pieces I installed the other day had slipped out of place before the glue set fully. As I've been using contact cement, this required a bit of very careful surgery. It's rather appropriate that I have a scalped on hand for this model.
 
In the following photo, I marked the ends of the knee at the bow with red arrows. The planking slip-up is clear, but I marked it with a big fat green arrow.

I repaired this by carefully slipping the scalpel blade under the plank. Of course, what's mostly going on is that I'm cutting into the plank piece itself, and cutting away a thin slice of the back side, which is glued into place. But, this allowed me to reposition the plank, to create the proper overlap. I reglued the piece into place, but now the plank extends a little too far out, as you'll see in the next photo. 

The plank position has been fixed, and there is no longer an unsightly gap at the bow. I'm not too sure this will affect the later planking, but it seems like it's positioned correctly with the registration marks printed on the stem end piece. Looks like I'll have to trim off the very end though, which also means that I'll have to repaint the nails without the benefit of the little laser-etched circles. I think it will be alright though.
 
The stern knee placement went fine and there are no signs of any planking issues there.
 

Finally, as you can see below, the pieces for the next planking strake are ready for installation. Those two piece to the right are stem and stern post pieces that will go on soon.
 

One other thing I discovered with my model work that I corrected before I wrote this post. I managed to forget to paint the nail heads of the previously attached planks. I took care of those first thing. Must have been tired!

I'd be careful about the effects of alcohol on paper. The acrylic paints provided work very well. But, as you say, you can always try out different things, given the extra time available.
 
Clare