catopower

I found some ships on https://creativepark.canon/ and many other card models for free. Some are very basic, but ther are some worth a build I think like the Cutty Sark

First of all, never download a model from a third party file sharing site.  Always download models from the designer's own web site or a site authorized to host them.  Second, never buy CD's claiming to have "hundreds of models" from auction sites like eBay  -- these are inevitably scans of commercial kits.  If you shop at eBay or somewhere similar on-line, make sure the seller displays a photo of the printed kit booklet; it should have an artwork cover with the publisher's name plainly visible.

Awesome Xebec, Catela!

Thanks Bob for the heads up about Midwest.  Contacted them and they sent me a PDF of the manual today.

If you mean two of the paddlewheelers at Echuca, then I've built two of them, the Alexander Arbuthnot and the Pevensey. Both build logs are linked in my signature.
 
Cheers

Recently got back into card modelling. Currently am doing SMS Friederich De Grosse, Have done Motor ship Sibajak Have the two Australian river steamers in my stash. Been awhile since I posted
 

I just wanted to give another shout-out somewhere to WAK (https://www.wak.pl/). I placed an order on 4 Feb and got it today, eleven days later, which is pretty lickety-darn-split for an order crossing the pond from Poland -- I usually don't get my hopes up when checking the mailbox until at least three weeks have transpired. The order came perfectly packaged, and WAK's shipping rates are unbeatable ($13.41 for three kits, five sets of laser-cut frames, and three canopies). In addition to being sold through WAK's online shop, the three kits I purchased are also published by WAK. These are the first of their kits I have obtained, and my initial impressions of them are very favorable. I may do a write-up of them later in the "what have you received" thread.

Second set of plans.  Next up will be standard side view/top view drawings of both houses as completed.

Third set of plans.  Working on the "stick" drawings now.

And the "sticks" are drawn.

Time to start the strings, I guess.

Some of today's drawings.  These are part of the hull construction sheet.  This is reduced copy as the sheet will be 36" wide.

Hi Anja
 
Thans for asking - I am very fine, was just busy with other models....
 
Hello everybody
 
The next step was the work on the main top mast. First I assembled the backstay which, as the fore back stay went down to a ring just behind the channel. The main topmast stay goes down to a ring at the foot of the fore mast. A challenge was the tackle which had to go in between of the two ropes of the main stay – a little bit tricky, to bring the blocks down.
 
Next were the shrouds on the topmasts – same as with the other shrouds, so nothing special.
 
Now I could start with setting all those shrouds, stays, backstays really firm without bending the masts. I used quite a lot of time for this, made knots without fixing them with glue and let everything rest for 2 days. Then I controlled, adjusted everything and fixed the ends of the tackle ropes with a drop of superglue.
 
And then the ratlines! Well, nothing special, but a very boring job. I fixed a paper with the adequate lines behind the shrouds and started with these hundreds of knots… I decided to fix only the knots on the two outer shrouds and let the other ones “natural”.
 
That was the time when I needed some change and when I started building a card-biplane. So it was 5 to 6 ratlines, then some work on the plane, then another 5-6 ratlines and so on. The plane made good process as did the ratlines.
 
On 11 May there is a meeting of card modellers in Radolfszell (Lake Constance) where I will attend and I will show the Scharzer Rabe there with the completed standing rig, as well as the now finished biplane.
 
By mid May I will have to decide how to proceed with the fluite: Shall I present her with all sails or with running rig only? What do you suggest?
The next step was the work on the main top mast. First I assembled the backstay which, as the fore back stay went down to a ring just behind the channel. The main topmast stay goes down to a ring at the foot of the fore mast. A challenge was the tackle which had to go in between of the two ropes of the main stay – a little bit tricky, to bring the blocks down.
 
Next were the shrouds on the topmasts – same as with the other shrouds, so nothing special.
 
Now I could start with setting all those shrouds, stays, backstays really firm without bending the masts. I used quite a lot of time for this, made knots without fixing them with glue and let everything rest for 2 days. Then I controlled, adjusted everything and fixed the ends of the tackle ropes with a drop of superglue.
 
And then the ratlines! Well, nothing special, but a very boring job. I fixed a paper with the adequate lines behind the shrouds and started with these hundreds of knots… I decided to fix only the knots on the two outer shrouds and let the other ones “natural”.
 
That was the time when I needed some change and when I started building a card-biplane. So it was 5 to 6 ratlines, then some work on the plane, then another 5-6 ratlines and so on. The plane made good process as did the ratlines.
 
On 11 May there is a meeting of card modellers in Radolfszell (Lake Constance) where I will attend and I will show the Scharzer Rabe there with the completed standing rig, as well as the now finished biplane.
 
By mid May I will have to decide how to proceed with the fluite: Shall I present her with all sails or with running rig only? What do you suggest?
 
 
Cheers,
Rosmarie

In the last days I worked on the shrouds. Not a very difficult thing in general, however quite a challenge to have all tackles of the same length, all deadeyes in a parallel line to the channels. While the deadeyes on the shrouds are now fixed with CA, the tackles are just knotted and not yet fixed with glue. I will do this only when all parts of the standing rig is read and when I can adjust the tensions.
 
As next I worked on the fore mast and hanged the shrouds of the topmast then assembled the backstays. At last (for today) I did the fore mast stay with its special tackle to the sprit.
 
Cheers,
Rosmarie
 
pics:
1 Shrouds-mixture - or why does a ship need so many ropes....
2 Fixing a deadeye - most important tool
3 Tackles
4 Fore mast with backstay
5 Fore mast with deadeyes
6 Fore mast with stay
7 Tackle of fore stay
8 all shrouds set

This afternoon I put all shrouds over the respective mast-tops and attached them loosley on the channels. Then followed the stays. I started with the stay of the main mast. First an eye fixed with a seizing, then a mini-mouse and then the deadeye goes to the bottom. The lower part ws started with the deadeye in the middle of a lenght of rope which went down under bow spriet and through a hole, the upwards and fixed with seizings. Finally the takkle. All seizings are fixed with watered wood glue, the tackle is loose. All three stays were done in the same way and are just set but without much tension.
 
Cheers,
Rosmarie

Hi everybody
 
Today I started with working on the shrouds. Mohnfeld mentions under “tricks” that one should first mount the most rear pair of shrouds on each mast first as well as the matching fore-stay. Then one should give them the definitive tension and by this the masts are fixed. Then the rest of the shrouds and ropes can follow. For me this sounds logical and I will go for this method.
 
First I put the starboard pendant tackle around the mast top, fixed it with a seizing and some CA. Same on the portside and  cut
the rope to reasonable length. Then I fixed the most rear pear of shrouds in the same way, first stb, then port side.
 
For binding in the deadeyes I formed an eye at the matching length and fixed it with a crocodile clip. Then I made a seizing around it, put the eye around the deadeye and pushed to seizing towards the deadeye. Sounds complicated but was quite easy. However, no pictures, because I have on two hands and needed both of them…. The seizing was then fixed with watered wood glue, but only on the surface so the length of the shroud could be adjusted if necessary later.
 
Next I did the tackling, the knot at the beginning was fixed with watered glue, all the rest stayed mobile for adjustment.
 
The whole system is quite stable but adjustment while setting the tension on the different shrouds and stays is possible.
 
Until tonight, the most rear shrouds on each mast are done…
 
Cheers,
Rosmarie


 

Now is the start of the rigging...
I decided to do the sprit mast first, befor I fixed it to the hull because I thought this to be easier for handling. First I placed the lower deadeyes, however without fixing them definitively. Then I added the takles and the upper deadeyes so all had the same lenght. Finally I attached the shrouds, with small seizings. BTW: I used wooden deadeyes (2mm).
 
Next I prepared the channels with the lower deadeyes. Here I used 2.5mm deadeyes, wood, which were placed in the small noch of the channel and then covered with small strip of card. They are not fixed in the channel but can move up- and downwards, as long as the futtocs are not glued to the hull (well, I'm not sure wheter I use the right words for all these parts of a ship...). As to the takles: they are not yet fixed i.e. I will give them the definitive tension later on when the shrouds are set. Anyway, the pictures will show what I do... 
 
Cheers,
Rosmarie

Hello everybody
 
After finishing the deck details I started with the gun port lids. Since “Schwarzer Rabe” has mainly been a merchandise vessel and as such sailed with closed gun ports, I decided to show in in this way. In addition, I didn’t love the card-guns much… As you can see, the lids are done quite detailed.
 
Then I started with making the masts. For this I used wood which had to be bevelled and sanded in form. The attached parts, top, cap, cross tree were made from card.
 
The following pics show the gunport lid, finished gun ports, and the main mast with all its details.
 
Cheers,
Rosmarie
 

 

I finished the rails, attached several details to the deck, completed the galion and attached the rudder.

Pictures:
1 Fluytes show the way from the tiller to a wheel: the mechanism was according to the later wheel while there wasn’t a wheel on deck.
2 pumps, bit
3 parts of the bit
4 completed galion
5 spill

And some pics showing the vessel
 
Cheers,
Rosmarie


 

Hello everybody
 
I continued with some deck details, i.e. the gratings. This was followed by the building of the galion which was constructed from several lasercut parts. Again, I was very happy with Shipyards work, all parts matched perfectly! The whole galion was then painted, some decorations added and everything covered with varnish.
 
Then I fixed the vertical stabilizers of the inner bulwark: a lot of small stripes glued in place. This was followed by the construction of the rail on the poop
deck. This was hard work since the pillars are very small (1mm x 1mm) and aren’t as firm as those from wood. So they tend to break when the upper rail is fixed. After the rails I could finish the stern. Here you can also see the very special form of the stern of the fluyte.

Cheers,
Rosmarie

Hello everybody

I forgot to mention, that the blue top part towards the stern is made with overlapping strips of paper, as it was done in the original. And I also forgot to write
about the gunport sills, made from 1x1mm card and glued to backside of the first planking. So there are “real” gunports.

There are also two “walls” on the main deck, on which there are small stripes of paper overlapping each other.

Next follow the several wales, single planks glued on top of the second planking.

Cheers,
 
Rosmarie

Hello everybody
 
Today I will start my second build log in this great forum. Presently I am not only working on my model of the HMS Victory (Caldercraft) but started my first card model “Schwarzer Rabe” by Shipyard, 1:96.

Schwarzer Rabe (black raven) is a typical fluyt, a type of ship created in the Netherlands around the end of the 16th century. The fluyts were common in Northern Germany, The Baltic Sea and had some features distinguishing them from other types of
sailing ships. They had a characteristic round stern and special proportions of the hull: narrow deck (because Danish customs were charged according to the deck space) and wide lower hull since fluyts were merchandise vessel and needed to store as much goods as possible. As a result of that the bulwark is strongly moving inside towards the deck.

Schwarzer Rabe was captured by the Poles and was then one of the vessels of the victorious Royal Polish Fleet in the battle of Oliwa in 1627. Its original dimensions are: length approx.. 106 ft, width approx.. 7m. The card model will be 40,5 cm long, 16,8cm wide and 34 cm high. The vessel was armed with 8 cannons.

In addition to the card model set I also bought a set with lasercut ribs, details of the construction, masts (round wood).

In the first few pics I will show you parts of the card set.

Further pics show the construction of the hull. First, the ribs were glued together with the deck. Then comes the so-called first planking. Everything is strongly glued and gives a stable hull. Then the inner bulwarks are glued in place. This
is followed by the second planking. The second planks are small stripes of paper with 2-3 planks. 

Six months ago we took the decision to relocate from Michigan to England. Mainly to be closer to a new granddaughter.
In Michigan we had a 3 bedroom ranch with a full length basement. Plenty of room for shipbuilding.
In England we are renting a 3 bedroom semi with precious little space for shipbuilding.
So some have to go. I have already sold off the smaller ships, and only 5 remain - Victory, Vanguard, Montanes, Santisima Trinindad and Diana.
All are in a state of 'in progress' because my eyes were always bigger than my belly!
 
Diana is first up. It is built from the Caldercraft kit. The photos show the state of completion. It might not be obvious but only one side of the hull is coppered. The kit contents are complete, EXCEPT for strip wood. The strips got mixed up in the move and I cannot isolate those that belong to Diana. Although at this point of the build there is precious little strip required for completion.
 
I would be happy to accept $150 - does that sound reasonable? And would ask the buyer to collect from Motcombe, near Shaftesbury.
 
Thanks!

I got stalled on the cleats - since they are metal and need to be painted and my 'workshop' for non indoor activities has shrunk! I need to reinitiate that.
 
I'll bring the Jutland game to the meeting this Saturday so you can take a look at it.
 

Dear Model Ship World,
Just joined. Glad to have an online space to both share and learn all things nautical model.
Formally trained as an Architect - practice by day as a Professional Builder.
Son to RVB, an accomplished model builder and retired dentist. Grew up with bedrooms hosting entire scaled railroad villages and model aircraft foils stretched across our air hockey table. Good Times Dad..... Good Times!
New to naval models however, but am hooked - especially on hull geometry and loft-work from lines and offsets. Plans to scratch-build a Whitehall 14' Pulling Boat  1":1'0". Already built a CAD file from old plans I found and mocked up in Rhino-3D to see lines. Designed (2) models - 'Plank on Frame' and  'Plank on Bulkhead' and will laser cut from 1/8" THK basswood sheets. Dad gets the Bulkhead build (and the lucky job of showing my how to plank via 'facetime') I'll execute the frame model and plan to steam bend frames into hull...... just like the full scale one I'm to build this winter in the garage. Should be a fun build (models & 1:1) and I look forward to sharing progress. Thank You for having me. Respectfully, Erik V. Blanchard (EVB)
Untitled-1.tif