Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BobCardone

  • Birthday 03/18/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Saint Petersburg, FL
  • Interests
    Model building, guitar construction and modification, hot rodding, antique clocks, computers, electronics, esoteric audio, cats, movie maven and book inhaler.

Recent Profile Visitors

120 profile views
  1. Thanks, Ken. I'm just about done, I've got enough extra for at least two more similar scale projects. Yeah, the bones don't fall far from the tree, do they? I made an EPIC SCREW-UP trying to use real rock on the base. Sure, it looks like rock (it is rock!) but "in scale" the rocks just don't cut it. Way too big and not fine enough detail. Also I had to "work around" the real rocks; compromising the overall layout of the base. My original idea was to cast the rocks using some Woodland Scenics silicone rock molds I have. I should have stuck with the original plan. So, out came the chisel and hammer. After about an hour of messy and curse filled pounding, I got the basic proportions back to my original concept. I cast up about four mold sheets (6 to 12 rocks per sheet) of layered rock that is typical of the area Philly sailed in. The rocks are universal scale, and the molds are really cut well with great detail. I used casting plaster for the rocks, and FastMache to attach them and blend everything together. I also decided to widen the feeder stream and provide a place for the gangway from the starboard bow to rest on the shore, and a path leading off the base. The above water part is now about done, it just needs to bake out a few days and then I can start adding color and detail. The riverbed is the last thing to finish. I still need to raise the elevation under the bow of the boat some more and add shore rocks around the area where the riverbed meets the shore. I included a pic of the shore rock castings, it's pretty slick how they designed them to be run in various different courses. Here's some really ugly shots of the newly modified base, drying mache and plaster. I think this will look TONS better than before. Oh well, only wasted some mache, styrofoam and time so I consider myself lucky... (BTW, I left one small real rock as a memento). In process pics from a few hours later. I still have to raise the riverbed under the bow about 1/4" so the stem will appear to be run slightly aground. Added some shore and bottom rocks and did some more blending. The black rectangle in the center is the base of the boat, and the three 5/8" holes are to push the hull out after casting the resin water. More on that later. A couple of days in the sun, and it'll be ready for finishing. Back to work on the boat.
  2. No problem today, it's been raining steadily since last night...🌧️ Because the higher humidity is slowing the base work to dry out, and the base work is delaying further work on the Philly, I went to work on some of the resin deck additions. I still have some touch up to do, and after everything dries I'll shoot them with Krylon matte tomorrow. They'll be scattered about on the deck with the crates, barrels and other stuff I've already completed. I have about 20 more to do, it seems like a lot but all this stuff will also be used on my next build, the 1:24 USN Picket Boat #1 (same scale). Here's the first batch: Added pic of stuff on deck (demo only... won't end up this crowded). Slim found another keg of grog... What could possibly go wrong? ...
  3. I got some Woodland Scenics trees today (cool shade #TR3521) and couldn't resist test fitting them... and the Philly... Pics:
  4. Wow.. Your bulkhead detail is exquisite, and the resin usage is genius. If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion, look into Tamiya panel line accent color. Some judicious application on those bulkheads would really make them pop. The stuff comes in black, gray, dark gray and brown. The stuff works best over a gloss finish, and I use a finer brush than the one attached to the lid and let capillary action do most of the work.
  5. Thanks, Ken. I figured Philly needed a "picture frame" to provide context and concept. This is the messy (and fun... like a four old kid type of fun...) part of the build, and Slim and I are both slinging plaster outside. I'm getting tanner, but I think Slim is just bleaching out. I've been breaking rocks today, I kinda feel I'm in an old prison movie. I was going to cast all the rocks on the base, but I ran across some rocks that with a little "mechanical excitation" look like they'll work for most of the rock work. I'll still do some rock casting, but not near as many as I originally planned. Here's the main materials I use to do the terrain work. As mentioned earlier, I used Styrofoam for the coarse elevations. It's cheap, easy to rough form and doesn't add a lot of weight. The next pass is FastMache, kind of a blend of plaster and paper flakes. It works great for forming out the terrain, is light, has a long working time and dries hard. After I did this pass, while the mache was still workable I embedded some rocks and blended them in. I'll be using the casting plaster for some more rocks and detail, and The Durham's for the final pass before adding dirt, gravel, foliage, trees and other stuff. The hot melt glue gun is indispensable! Here's some shots with the mache and rocks...
  6. Wow, she's looking fit, trim and elegant! You have great skills and have done a fine job, I'm looking forward to your future projects. Any ideas yet?
  7. Greetings All, I got a lot of work done on the base. It's time consuming, as I'm using water based stuff and things need to dry out good between steps. Luckily, the Florida sun is assisting nicely, not only for bake-out but also for some more outdoor pics. I love "real" lighting! Here's some of the ideas I use to improve dioramas. First, scenic compression. Most of the real world is pretty spread out and featureless, with interesting stuff scattered few and far between. This means "real scale" distances and dimensions are too great to model effectively. To overcome this, I try to "squish" my interesting sections together more so than they would be in the real world. This trick gets rid of "dead spots" and allows the viewer to focus on the interesting stuff. It also tightens up the display and saves on work and materials. Second, vertical exaggeration. Like scenic compression, this helps overcome nature's boring tendency to make gentle grades. Rapid changes in elevation seem to add more "space" and give more of a dynamic effect. My base (from the second picture onward) has an elevation change of three and a half inches from the lake bottom to the highest part of the frame in a span of only four inches. In scale, this would be about seven feet, much higher than what nature would usually do but effective. Third, use the rule of thirds (bad pun intended). Painters, photographers and other artists divide the work into nine rectangles, and put the focus around the intersection of the four points in the center. Try not to orient either the model or scenery square, this can constrict the overall appearance and pull the user's eye off the display. I like to use a lot of diagonals, they seem to draw the viewer's eye into the display better. Fourth, KISS (not the band...). Keep it simple... reduce the overall size, eliminate anything that doesn't add to the model's presentation and try not to have abrupt transitions. Remember, THE MODEL is the primary focus. The base is just the stage. I'll continue to describe my progress and methods as I go along. Here's the base after the first glue-up. Here's the base after I decided to add a feeder stream and some more elevation. I also contoured the frame and and lowered the part around the water (I'll build a temporary resin dam when I pour the water). Here's the base with some minor changes. I put some reference coats of different colored paint to both seal the work done so far and get an idea of the evolving appearance. The board in the center is to elevate the boat to it's proper distance above the bottom (approx. 1/2") and make the boat appear to be "floating". After all this stuff dries, I'm going to start on the riverbed grade, rock casting and terrain buildup. Here's some outdoor shots with the boat oriented about where it's going to end up. I also scattered some deck ornaments that I've finished in random locations to start planning the deck build-out. Gotta love the Florida sun!🌞
  8. I think that is the second most popular statement made by modelers. The first being "Yikes! the piece I'm working on just popped out of the tweezers, flew away and is now lost forever...". Great work on a difficult build.
  9. Good progress, she's going together nicely. As far as the gap, look over the plans. If it isn't visible, just ignore it. If you're OCD, cut a piece of walnut to fit in the gap. If you're lazy, just put a coil of rope or a barrel over it. 😁 Watch out for those style clamps, they're pretty strong and will leave a dent on softer woods (I found out the hard way...🥵). Use small pieces of scrap wood between the clamp face and the board you're fitting or gluing. This also distributes the clamping force over a larger area. Also, some GOOD (not cheap splintery ones) wood clothespins work great and have a bunch of other uses. Looks like Zara really enjoyed the run... and what a view in the background!
  10. Good advice, Woodland Scenics is an excellent resource for both materials and instructions. There's also a bunch of YouTube videos that are very helpful. Placing both bottles in hot water (about 120-140 F) for about an hour before you mix them helps. Heating the base up also helps (I'm going to leave mine in the sun for a few hours before I pour). When you mix the resin, do it slowly and gently, trying for a thorough mix without introducing any extra bubbles. Wait about 5 minutes before pouring, and pour slowly in one spot and let the resin self level keeping each pour thin (less than 1"). I'll be doing my pours in about 2-3 weeks, depending on how quick the materials and adhesives I'm using take to completely dry. I think it's great. Maybe we can encourage some other Philly builds. Sure would be fun to see some other interpretations. Amazing coincidence! I'll have to get Slim an eye patch.
  11. I knew it... The whole animal kingdom is involved. Looks like Slim needs a harpoon this time. APRIL FOOLS! In these times everyone needs a laugh, go make someone's day (and yours) better by putting on a good gag. (I have a great one planned for the wife, It'll probably get me banished to the garage for a week at least). BTW, no cephalopods or skeletons were harmed in this post.🐙
  12. Very nice! really sets off the model. You did a great job on the painting, especially the exterior hull. The Syren blocks and rope are top shelf quality, they will be a big improvement. The copper hull looks great, the only suggestion I have is to add attachment marks. Model aircraft and armor guys use a rivet maker tool (the one I have is from Trumpeter, and comes with four different rivet spacing wheels) and would work well with your copper. They're only about $10, and are useful for a lot of things. Nice work on re-creating the missing lower flaps. A similar alternative I've used is to make the mold out of silicone, and use hot melt glue for the casting. This way the mold is reusable.
  13. Thanks, Peter! I'll check out the video. I've done some multi-layer pours before, but nothing this big. As far as "resin creep", it depends on what you're pouring around. I've found that a first coat of resin applied as a thin coat helps in sealing the base details as well as prevent bubbles from appearing in later pours. An old model RR trick for any objects that stick out of the water is to cut them exactly even with the top of the final pour. Then take the above water section of the object and glue it directly over the immersed cut off piece. I've done this with docks, trees, seawalls and other structures that protrude from the water surface. This doesn't work well with foliage, rocks and shoreline stuff, so for those I blend in the object with dirt, grass and plaster soaked in matte medium. That way you can hide the resin creep pretty effectively. Slim's a butthead. Everyone in the shop has a beef with him, it's no surprise he has issues with animal relations. All our cats are convinced he's stealing their food... Heck, they probably hired Ole Smiley to provide Slim with some "attitude adjustment". I have a dreadful feeling this is going to escalate... For the oarlocks, I just used toothpicks. if you look at pictures of the reconstructed Philly II, you'll see the oarlocks are tapered. The toothpicks worked perfectly for that. I completed the mortar and carriage rails. I still don't know if I'll use it, luckily I don't have to finally decide until I start the awning battens. Here's the mortar... ( I know, not accurate, but looks cool and fills a "void"). Here's some shots of the base sides attached and ready for finishing. I've got to square up the frame and make sure it won't leak resin (hot melt glue). This looks pretty rough, but everything on the base including the frame will have a finish treatment so won't be visible. The frame top edges will be cut to match the shore and waterline. I'll start this week on the lake bed, rocks and shore. Really messy work, but strangely satisfying to be "slingin' plaster" again.
  14. Big scales have a lot of advantages (except they're huge!). She sure is a fun build, with a lot of neat features. Your boat is looking fit and trim, I like the natural interior- it really sets the contrast with the hull and cannons. Really nice workmanship, and I see you installed the rail caps just fine. How is the brass blackening going?

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...