Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
Bedford
-
Posts
1,261 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Bedford got a reaction from coxswain in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Michael, the beads are not sperical, they are more cylindrical so that can't happen. Wouldn't be a bad idea though.
Bob, I think a lot of people who build these models are terrified of breaking them so they don't tension the rigging enough, especially the standing rigging. When you think about it though all that rigging is designed to strengthen and support the masting and even in a model it does just that so my rigging is tensioned quite well on all my ships, I do tension it gradually and evenly so as not to over tighten one side which could lead to breakage. I did read once that you should soak all the rigging cord and hang it out to dry under tension to take all the stretch out of it but I didn't do it with the first ship, built in 1997, and it is still nice and tight. I did it with the second model but don't think it made any difference so I haven't done it since.
I have more to do in the garage, ie make the aft deck house to mount the servos in, but again it is way too cold, snow is looming and they are experiencing what they are referring to as a megablizzard in the snowfields not that far south of here.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Yambo in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
We have reached a truly momentous occasion...........
http://youtu.be/oVoMhYSnHvA
I am so pleased with how the sails raise, it takes a fair bit of effort but the servo handles the task with ease.
I can't lower them properly yet because I have yet to run the lazy jacks to the servo, when they are connected the gaffs will pull down easily and the bulk of the sail will be controlled rather than spilling out all over the deck.
-
Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
-
Bedford got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
-
Bedford got a reaction from qwerty2008 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
More plumbing done, I am getting better at bending the pipes without needing to cut and adjust, the joint in this run is to make the distance, the pipes are only 30cm long.
-
Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
-
Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
27.5 degrees, that's about 1.5 too hot to be comfortable for me, you can keep it !
Back to ship building.
The epoxy has set, the control room is re-fitted and I have done more "plumbing"
I hope the pics make sense.
This shows two tubes running to the winch drum, just held together with wire for now. I was going to solder them together but I am worried about the heat so I think I will use epoxy and epoxy putty to secure it all.
In the following pics you can make out the two tubes from the fore and main masts coming together and aiming towards the stern. There is another tube with a flared end facing forward towards the other two.
The idea being that a line off each boom will join to a single line that runs back to the winch drum. The gap between the tubes that allows for joining of the lines is located in the area of a large cargo hatch to allow repeat access should it be required.
Nothing is permanently aligned yet.
I flared the receiving tube to allow the join in the ropes to pass into the tube easily, I did this in the lathe. Anneal the tube then mount it in the chuck, place a centre drill in the tail stock and run the lathe in reverse while easing the centre drill into the tube. The cutting edge of the drill does not bite into the brass because the lathe is going backwards so the angled step on the drill acts as a gentle flaring tool.
-
Bedford got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
-
Bedford got a reaction from augie in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
First a pic of the flared tube fresh off the lathe. These are for the joined ropes from two or three masts to easily pull into the final tube back to the servo.
More plumbing done, that's tacking of the courses and raising of the gafs taken care of.
I have found that epoxy putty is excellent for fitting the tubes in place, easy and it allows time to adjust the position properly while getting a good hold on it fairly quickly.
-
Bedford got a reaction from qwerty2008 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
There is an old electricians trick for getting a draw string through a long conduit run, it's called a vacuum cleaner.
I will look into making some type of adapter to fit my cordless vac to the tubes by way of a clear pvc tube so I can draw the lines through.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
27.5 degrees, that's about 1.5 too hot to be comfortable for me, you can keep it !
Back to ship building.
The epoxy has set, the control room is re-fitted and I have done more "plumbing"
I hope the pics make sense.
This shows two tubes running to the winch drum, just held together with wire for now. I was going to solder them together but I am worried about the heat so I think I will use epoxy and epoxy putty to secure it all.
In the following pics you can make out the two tubes from the fore and main masts coming together and aiming towards the stern. There is another tube with a flared end facing forward towards the other two.
The idea being that a line off each boom will join to a single line that runs back to the winch drum. The gap between the tubes that allows for joining of the lines is located in the area of a large cargo hatch to allow repeat access should it be required.
Nothing is permanently aligned yet.
I flared the receiving tube to allow the join in the ropes to pass into the tube easily, I did this in the lathe. Anneal the tube then mount it in the chuck, place a centre drill in the tail stock and run the lathe in reverse while easing the centre drill into the tube. The cutting edge of the drill does not bite into the brass because the lathe is going backwards so the angled step on the drill acts as a gentle flaring tool.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
I've started the "plumbing" in earnest. I tried getting all the bends right so I could run one unbroken pipe but it's not easy to do. I always knew I would probably need to cut and re-join to adjust angles and lengths and as you can see there are two such alteration points in this run.
This is the line that will control tacking on the mizzen mast, the fore and main will share one line onto the same winch.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Shazmira in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Progress at last!
I have worked out how to mount the servos and have done so in the aft deck house. The "box" will be epoxied to the ribs below and it holds the servos. The aft deck will be over half way up the sides of the box.
Once it is all done there will be a box lid in the form of the aft deck house that will fit neatly over the control box to close it.
-
Bedford got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Well wouldn't that rot your socks!
When I was using epoxy in summer the stuff was going off as quickly as I could mix it and now in winter it doesn't want to go off at all!
I realised that I had better pull out the control room and epoxy it for waterproofing. I did that this morning and because it is a balmy 9-10 degrees C here I left my front and back doors open to freshen up the house. After about 3 hours the epoxy was still quite tacky so I turned the heating on to 16 degrees and went out for a while, came back and still no better.
I have had to turn the heat off again because it is just too warm so I will see if it goes off over night.
The upshot of all this is that I can do no more control fitting until the epoxy is set and the control room re-fitted.
-
Bedford got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
27.5 degrees, that's about 1.5 too hot to be comfortable for me, you can keep it !
Back to ship building.
The epoxy has set, the control room is re-fitted and I have done more "plumbing"
I hope the pics make sense.
This shows two tubes running to the winch drum, just held together with wire for now. I was going to solder them together but I am worried about the heat so I think I will use epoxy and epoxy putty to secure it all.
In the following pics you can make out the two tubes from the fore and main masts coming together and aiming towards the stern. There is another tube with a flared end facing forward towards the other two.
The idea being that a line off each boom will join to a single line that runs back to the winch drum. The gap between the tubes that allows for joining of the lines is located in the area of a large cargo hatch to allow repeat access should it be required.
Nothing is permanently aligned yet.
I flared the receiving tube to allow the join in the ropes to pass into the tube easily, I did this in the lathe. Anneal the tube then mount it in the chuck, place a centre drill in the tail stock and run the lathe in reverse while easing the centre drill into the tube. The cutting edge of the drill does not bite into the brass because the lathe is going backwards so the angled step on the drill acts as a gentle flaring tool.
-
Bedford got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
27.5 degrees, that's about 1.5 too hot to be comfortable for me, you can keep it !
Back to ship building.
The epoxy has set, the control room is re-fitted and I have done more "plumbing"
I hope the pics make sense.
This shows two tubes running to the winch drum, just held together with wire for now. I was going to solder them together but I am worried about the heat so I think I will use epoxy and epoxy putty to secure it all.
In the following pics you can make out the two tubes from the fore and main masts coming together and aiming towards the stern. There is another tube with a flared end facing forward towards the other two.
The idea being that a line off each boom will join to a single line that runs back to the winch drum. The gap between the tubes that allows for joining of the lines is located in the area of a large cargo hatch to allow repeat access should it be required.
Nothing is permanently aligned yet.
I flared the receiving tube to allow the join in the ropes to pass into the tube easily, I did this in the lathe. Anneal the tube then mount it in the chuck, place a centre drill in the tail stock and run the lathe in reverse while easing the centre drill into the tube. The cutting edge of the drill does not bite into the brass because the lathe is going backwards so the angled step on the drill acts as a gentle flaring tool.
-
Bedford got a reaction from mtaylor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Go on, you know you want to......................what is the weather like in Seattle.
Please convert to metric or I won't even bother reading it. If you are going to gloat, you do the work
-
Bedford got a reaction from fnkershner in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Go on, you know you want to......................what is the weather like in Seattle.
Please convert to metric or I won't even bother reading it. If you are going to gloat, you do the work
-
Bedford got a reaction from augie in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Well wouldn't that rot your socks!
When I was using epoxy in summer the stuff was going off as quickly as I could mix it and now in winter it doesn't want to go off at all!
I realised that I had better pull out the control room and epoxy it for waterproofing. I did that this morning and because it is a balmy 9-10 degrees C here I left my front and back doors open to freshen up the house. After about 3 hours the epoxy was still quite tacky so I turned the heating on to 16 degrees and went out for a while, came back and still no better.
I have had to turn the heat off again because it is just too warm so I will see if it goes off over night.
The upshot of all this is that I can do no more control fitting until the epoxy is set and the control room re-fitted.
-
Bedford got a reaction from mtaylor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Well wouldn't that rot your socks!
When I was using epoxy in summer the stuff was going off as quickly as I could mix it and now in winter it doesn't want to go off at all!
I realised that I had better pull out the control room and epoxy it for waterproofing. I did that this morning and because it is a balmy 9-10 degrees C here I left my front and back doors open to freshen up the house. After about 3 hours the epoxy was still quite tacky so I turned the heating on to 16 degrees and went out for a while, came back and still no better.
I have had to turn the heat off again because it is just too warm so I will see if it goes off over night.
The upshot of all this is that I can do no more control fitting until the epoxy is set and the control room re-fitted.
-
Bedford got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
I've started the "plumbing" in earnest. I tried getting all the bends right so I could run one unbroken pipe but it's not easy to do. I always knew I would probably need to cut and re-join to adjust angles and lengths and as you can see there are two such alteration points in this run.
This is the line that will control tacking on the mizzen mast, the fore and main will share one line onto the same winch.
-
Bedford got a reaction from mtaylor in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
I've started the "plumbing" in earnest. I tried getting all the bends right so I could run one unbroken pipe but it's not easy to do. I always knew I would probably need to cut and re-join to adjust angles and lengths and as you can see there are two such alteration points in this run.
This is the line that will control tacking on the mizzen mast, the fore and main will share one line onto the same winch.
Our Emblem ®
