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Bedford

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About Bedford

  • Rank
    Occasional deckhand
  • Birthday 10/20/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Camden NSW Australia

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  1. Well I did my due diligence and determined that the mast holes are not as badly aligned as suspected, we're only talking a degree or 2 so I can easily rectify that when the time comes to step the mats, there was a bit of an optical illusion going on apparently.
  2. The planking begins, you'll note that I glued the "negatives" of the bow molds to the stem to provide proper placement and wedging facility to keep the planks held properly at the bow. They will be easily removed later with a sharp chisel. I've got 6 planks on each side but here it stops for a while because I don't like the alignment of the mast holes. The fore mast will lean forward like an older VOC ship, the main will be vertical and only the mizzen will have a gentle rake aft like it should so now I have to take the angles off the plan and work out how to make it al
  3. On the topic of epoxy grease, yes I've experienced that on my boat in very upsetting places that took some effort to fix. My solution was not to rely on clamps to prevent movement, rather I doweled the pieces so they couldn't slip or I screwed them on while the epoxy set. Some screws I removed and back filled with epoxy and some became a feature of the boat because they were in places I didn't want visible epoxy hole filling. I used silicone bronze screws so it looks good and won't rust. If you use screws you can wipe a tiny amount of vaseline or similar on them so they release or
  4. Ok, this will be a tad long winded. Several years ago I was googling this model and stumbled upon a build on this very forum (that's how I came to join this little group) where the builder had taken the time to research and draw up the floor of the Kings cabin on his computer and the pics where beautiful so I asked him if he would be so kind as to send me the artwork and given my reason for building this he was more than willing to help. I don't remember who he was and as far as I know the build thread was lost when the site crashed a few years back. Anyway, I am procee
  5. OK, I'm no expert but I've been through the process. The epoxy resin is naturally quite thick so you can't really put it on thinly, having said that you can thin it with metho (you're an Aussie so you know what I mean) but it thins by way of spreading the stuff and creating micro pockets between epoxy bits and when it evaporates it leaves micro gaps in the epoxy which allows water to get to the wood. The Aussie epoxy I used has the option to thin the first coat with a rot resisting thinner designed to allow it to penetrate more and it doesn't leave the gaps because it's
  6. As Oddball said, "have a little faith baby, have a little faith"! It does get easier but it's a very steep learning curve and the mistakes take a lot of sanding/filling/elbow grease to fix but you'll get there. You might want to have a look at a product called Peel Ply, it is for use with epoxy and is laid on over the epoxy and smoothed out, in theory as I understand it, the epoxy adheres to the ply in a surface tension way but not a glue way so you peel it off after.
  7. Well folks I've been sitting on this one for a few years now. I had always planned to build it for my daughter, Caroline. Before I got anywhere near buying the kit I lost my beautiful girl in a horse riding accident, that was in 2005 and she was 13. I've had the kit now for about 6 years but haven't been in the right place (on a lot of levels) to do it but the time has come. There will be a few special little things done during the build and eventually my son will get the model. This is the first kit I've done in a while as I prefer scratch builds but we'll see how
  8. Don't feel too bad, I had trouble dealing with the epoxy too although the hull on my boat is not fibreglassed. Remember that you can heat epoxy with a hot air gun to soften it so a sharp chisel can slice though it then you only have to do a little sanding. How much did you mix up? Did you try to do it all in one go? I think the trick is to mix small batches, work that in nice and neatly before making another small batch etc. The different batches won't be a problem as far as the continuous bond goes because it takes hours for it to go right off and as long as
  9. The bucket consists of 10 wedges of mahogany cut to an angle of 36 degrees and glued together on a 3mm MDF backing plate. I then used a 25mm holesaw to cut out the blank for the bucket, glued a dowel arbor into it to mount in a collet and drilled out the centre before running a 12mm end mill into it. Then with the compound slide set at 6 degrees ( scaled from a plastic bucket I have ) I cut the interior surface before cutting the exterior then I cut the bucket away. I used a plug cutter to cut a disc from some 0.8mm ply for the bottom and glued that in with a little CA from the underside. Next
  10. That's a beautiful model, well done! I am always a bit confused about the use of mat colours on them though because I read in a book several years ago that the standing order was to "Polish them such that the regulation dry cheese cloth would slide off the wing" The aim was to give them the least possible drag. The fact that they were well polished would seem to imply a shiny finish wouldn't it?
  11. That left the holder for the maneuvering arm which is made of square brass tube ground to an internal radius at each end on a bench belt sander with another piece of the same tube slightly flared at one end soldered to the first and attached. The upper support is the same process but a section of round tube was soldered to the square base then worked to the open cradle shown. Next job...................................................a wooden bucket, I hope!
  12. Once I had the accessories made I had to mount them so I hammered down some annealed 1mm brass wire to give a flat of 2mm width. Then milled a piece of scrap brass to make a former. The flat was clamped between the former and the vice, wrap the wire around a drill bit then work it into the curved rebate to give the "crook" shape. Then milled a 2mm wide slot into another brass off cut to hold the hook securely while drilling the holes.
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