olliechristo

Okay and some after shots.. and comparison

Thanks guys.. I thought you may say that John.. I have already done it, couldn't help myself.. Some serious deliberating and I took on some serious surgery...  I surprised myself at how it went and happy with the result really.  Didnt take that long..I didnt cut or break anything i didnt want to.. I am a bit mad I know but at least i know it    Pics coming soon.. Havn't touched the transom yet but it will be an easier fix if i decide to do it.... Ollie

All finished. Some shots in my home studio.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
In front of a Viking cross-stitch given to me by my friend's wife more than 10 years ago.
 

 
With my other ship - the HMS Bounty. The scale of both ships is roughly comparable. The Bounty is 1:48, the Viking ship is 1:50.

I had started on the channels and deadeyes last month, but was distracted by the continuing discussions about mills. I was sure that there must be some way of modifying my drill stand to act as a mill, and sure enough, after a lot of web searching, I found a railway hobbyist who had done exactly that with his Proxxon drill stand. He was kind enough to share the details and provide a sketch.
 
So with the sketch in hand, I adapted my drill stand  as you can see if you look at my positng on the forum about this (see ‘How to modify Proxxon MB 140 drill stand to act as mill’ at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4539-how-to-modify-proxxon-mb-140-drill-stand-to-act-as-mill/?p=130660).
 
This in turn led me to buy an x-y table for the drill stand as well.
 
With all this thinking about better precision, a glance at the deck and looking at all the wonderful work on this forum showed me I could do a lot better with the guns, the shot racks, and the hatches. So why leave learning the skills to do better until later? Answer: do them again, but better if possible.
 
Replacing the shot racks
 
So the first thing to do was to remove all the shot racks. Unfortunately I had used epoxy adhesive to stick them to the walls. Despite much soaking in Isopropanol, they refused to give way, so I had to attack them with chisel blades. They came off, but it was clear I’d have to replace them as small patches of wood were also torn off the walls at the same time.
 
That done, I cut some new strips of wood from some pear pen blanks using my Proxxon FET saw (with which I am at last really comfortable and pleased with the precision it can offer) and loaded them on to a jig that would hold them on the x-y table.
 
That allowed me to mill a nice series of three hollows at a time spaced by 0.5mm, leaving gaps between each three hollows to file out as individual shot racks.
 

 

 
I finished them off with a face plate, and painted them. I again used the x-y table to drill holes for the gun bolts that would go into them, and then with some of the salvaged bolts and rings from the previous racks, installed the bolts. The racks were then set aside until I had finished more of the other deck furnishings.
 
Replacing the hatches – (1) the Gratings
 
I had for some time been thinking about learning how to do gratings for myself – I had read a lot about the standard technique of using a circular saw, but had been somewhat mystified as to how to get a groove exactly at the right spacing from the saw blade.
 
Of course, the answer was obvious the moment I decided to put blade to plywood panel. The way to achieve a perfect spacing was simply to start by cutting the slot in the panel by clamping the panel to the table top and having one edge of the panel firmly against the fence. Then, once the slot was cut, the panel was turned over and a spacer of the correct width was inserted between the panel and the fence.
 

 
I had decided that I’d go for 0.8mm strips for the gratings with a corresponding hole size of 0.8mm in order to achieve a scale size of 2” for the gratings (it’s a 1:64 model). The kit gratings are about 1mm and they just looked a bit too big to my eye.
 
Luckily I have a 0.8mm saw blade with no kerf, and after several attempts using a 0.8mm gauge from an old set of feeler gauges I had, I managed to cut 0.8mm strips that I could use in the slot.
 

 
One little hint that others might find useful is to set the depth of the cut using feeler gauges until you can just feel the edge of the saw over the edge of the gauge as you raise it through the slot.
 

 
I had especially enjoyed Dafi’s account of his trials making gratings (at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1449-making-gratings/?p=29923), and I went through similar set-backs. My main problem was making sure the grooves for the gratings were parallel. Given the grooves were 0.8mm, and that I was pushing the block of wood by hand over the blade, minute variations in the pressure I was using resulted in (1) increasing deviation from parallel as I went further into the block, and (2) a very small variation in the spacing between cuts. I found that a deviation of 0.01mm would translate into blocks that would have slightly different spacing, and that this would result in gratings that would only interlock for about 7 or 8 bars.
 
To overcome the problem of variance from parallel cuts, I used a block of wood that covered both sides of the spacing bar as well as the blade. This was then pushed through by the cross-slide/ angle stop. I never quite managed to make grooves that were perfectly spaced for more than a couple of centimetres, but I found that that did not matter – the only grating that was large was the main grating and I found all I had to do was make up the central section as a cross hatch and then simply add ordinary strips of the right depth to the remaining outer grating grooves.
 

 

 

 

 
Another recent purchase was a Proxxon sander. This I really find valuable. It allowed me to finish off the coamings around the gratings with ease.
 
Curving the gratings
 
I have seen that others bend their gratings using heat. I wasn’t quite sure how I’d do that and then put coamings round them. So I used an old biscuit tin first to shape the underside of the gratings, and then to shape a mirror mould so that I could curve the top of the gratings.
 

 

 

 
 
Replacing the hatches – (2) Main companionway
 
It has been said that the Alert’s deck plan would not work for the Sherbourne because the Sherbourne is smaller and using the hatches from the Alert would make the deck far too cluttered. That’s probably true, but I liked the look of my old companionway, so I just re-did it using pear wood from the pen blanks I had bought off eBay. It’s a bit better now, but not enormously so.
 

 
Replacing the hatches – (3) The Captain’s companionway
 
Much more interesting was the aftmost companionway. Others have preferred a tall structure, but I thought I’d stick with the Alert’s glass-covered one – mostly because I wanted to try my hand at using Perspex and embedding mullions in it. I didn’t like the rather tatty look of the one I first made, especially as I had CA glue marks on the plastic sheet I had used for the window panes.
 
At first I tried using my modified drill stand to mill the grooves for the mullions in the Perspex. However, it soon became clear that with my drill at its very high speed the melting Perspex on the mill bit made the process unworkable. Even worse, I snapped my 0.8mm mill bit when trying to remove it from a solidified ball of Perspex.
 
However, it struck me that I could use the skills I had learnt for the gratings. After a bit of experimentation, using a 0.6mm blade and making the necessary 0.6mm strip for the jig, it was relatively easy to slice grooves to a depth of 1mm in a 2mm Perspex block.
 
With another bit of luck, I remembered that some 0.5mm strips of cherry wood that I had previously ordered were in fact 0.6mm thickness – so they made perfect mullions for the grooves in the Perspex.
 
I first cut longitudinal grooves in the Perspex, then fitted the strips of cherry wood into those grooves (using small amounts of CA glue along the bases). These were sanded down to 1mm from the surface of the Perspex.
 
The block was then rotated and the horizontal cuts were made with the saw using the same jig – though this time the depth of the cut was adjusted to allow for the extra depth made by the inserted longitudinal strips of cherry.
 
With this done, the horizontal strips of cherry could then be inserted into the horizontal grooves, and the whole was then sanded down with the sander.
 

 

 

 

 
The final touch was to mill a couple of slots for the hinges and to insert two 2.5mm lengths of 0.5mm brass wire into the slots.
 

 
Watch out with the vacuum cleaner!
 
I had rigged up a vacuum cleaner nozzle over the sanding machine as I found that was more successful at removing wood dust than the outlet provided for the sander.
 
Unfortunately, the double sided tape I had been using to fix the companionway cover to a block of wood (to make the sanding more accurate and less dangerous) became worn and, as I was nearing the last bit of sanding on this rather precious piece, the vacuum cleaner simply sucked up the piece!
 

 

 
So I spent a dusty 15 minutes taking the bag out of the vacuum cleaner and sifting through the dust until I found my precious tiny piece again.
 
Still to come:
Cannon Channels and deadeyes  
Tony

I think I'd leave them 'as is', Ollie.  Any extension would be really obvious and new parts would require life threatening surgery.
 
John

Looks grand to me Ollie but then again you would be more familiar with the 'original', perhaps you can rig up extensions if you are concerned?
I really like what you are doing with this build!
 
Eamonn

Well, Another few hours spent...  I have added my cap rails and extensions.. I am a bit dissapointed my keel at bow seems to have fallen a bit short of where it should be.. Stern could be a bit higher above rails also.   I dont know how that happened, I made my scratch built ones the same as kit supplied.. I shouldn't have cut it until now perhaps, i would next time.. as done with keel at rudder post, a valuable lesson for all.. 
 
I may try to fix this or let it go.. Any thoughts?    Regards Ollie

I am contemplating same thing Ron.. I'm thinking cut lengths would look nice and more realistic.. I think it would be best to do tapering and fitting of full plank before cutting into the lengths..  Ollie

Thanks a lot men for your comments they are a great help and good to get other peoples opinions and experiance.Thanks Ollie,so far i have done 2 fishing boats and one sailing ship.I thought i would try the hull as a jig a lot more accurate than anything i could have done on the table.Hi Steve the instructions say to fit the wales later.I thought if i put the wales on now i would'nt have to re-do the lines.Also it will be easier to line up the top and bottom planks against the wale.When i glue the wales on they will be higher at the stern on the line in the second photo.All trial and error.Hi Greg i will be doing a thinner plank at the top of the wale which has three planks.I painted the edges of the top and bottom wales like on Augies great build,i love that ship.Hi Popeye i will be using a 1mm top wale plank then three 2mm planks.The second planking layer is 0.6mm limewood for the top and sapelli below the wales. 

Well, Another few hours spent...  I have added my cap rails and extensions.. I am a bit dissapointed my keel at bow seems to have fallen a bit short of where it should be.. Stern could be a bit higher above rails also.   I dont know how that happened, I made my scratch built ones the same as kit supplied.. I shouldn't have cut it until now perhaps, i would next time.. as done with keel at rudder post, a valuable lesson for all.. 
 
I may try to fix this or let it go.. Any thoughts?    Regards Ollie

Hi all. Okay another 3 hours, wasn't happy with gun ports linings and another bit on frames where they met transom. So i fixed them so i was happy...
 
You may notice i left my frames proud of bulwarks because i knew there was no way i was going to cut them as accurate as i need... So i made a sanding pad with fresh 80 grit quality wet and dry paper and worked them down nice and flat all over now..  ( pad will get used for lots more sanding yet:) 
 
I have cap rails bending and use the soak, bend, dry technique. The ones in bowl are getting a head start..  Steam didn't seem to be that advantageous to me..   The square objects are lead weights.
 
5 days straight of rain here and plenty more to come, so good ship building weather..   Regards Ollie

My next decision is should i use my second planks in their 600mm lengths or to cut planks to 200mm.I think it would be better to cut them and easier to lay individually.What do you think?

I decided the decking was way too dark and after looking at some interiors of other ships of similar era i decided it needed to match the top deck, so into the wood pile and I hand cut strips down with a craft knife that resemble the kit supplied decking very well.. quite happy now..
 
I presume decks below are almost identical to those above? anyway this is what is going in now.. 
 
The barrels are done now... moving forward.. Thanks all, happy crafting.. Ollie

Thanks again, i have one more question. I am customising the main gangway door to be open, just wondering would it most likely oprn outwrads or inwards?
 
I am getting closer to getting the below deck work sorted and back to the plan.. More work to be done on barrels, including filing down bands thinner and painting them darker..
 
Many thanks and regards Ollie

Thanks so much Jeff and ZyXuz.  I appreciate it...  I only use basic tools and a keen eye.
 
I am well into scratch building the barrels for under floor.. It s been 3 hours at least over 2 evenings..
 
I cut strips at angles and made them all in one tube.. because the lengths are wedges, when i sand the curve at ends of barrel it gives the appearance of planks narrowing and in fact they do, just not as they really woud, but working at this size you cant build like you would a fulll size item, so one has to improvise a little.
 
I used "sika" super glue. it is good quality, then i filled tube with an expanding glue that helped hold the small bits together.. These are not going to be seen from alll angles so i thought better not get too carried away,, i tend to do that..
 
The bands i'm not 100% sure on yet, i made prototypes out of hammered soldering wire but think i need a thinner guage,, the effect is great.. and very nice to bend around two angles
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi everyone. Before rushing into buying my kit i first wanted to setup a really good work space, so i built/renovated one..  Kit arrived yesterday - 17 Oct 2013
 
And did some scratch building of smalll items to get back into fine timber work... I made a shipping crate out of some old timber that has been sitting for many years from dads instrument building years.. (western red cedar) I believe.
 
I found these series of 8 collectors plates and 5000 were made, based of paintings done by an Australian Maratime artist, Dennis Adams (1914 - 2001) He studied at the Royal Acadamy in London. I got one for a good price on ebay and made a local timber "Silky Oak" (from a old house renovation) into a plate stand.. It is good inspiration for the build and will look great with it finished..
 
I have fitted and tweaked some parts but no glue yet. I am not familiar with the all the terminology as its not only my first build of this calibre and i dont know that much about sailing...   I love to learn and am very handy, though i am glad i have you guys to help me out.. i can see many moments of perplexed pondering... Hrs count so far - 1.5 Hrs.
 
Regards Ollie

Very nice Ron. I'm assuming you have built a few ships before? I like the method you are using, works for me also.. Regards ollie

Hi all. Okay another 3 hours, wasn't happy with gun ports linings and another bit on frames where they met transom. So i fixed them so i was happy...
 
You may notice i left my frames proud of bulwarks because i knew there was no way i was going to cut them as accurate as i need... So i made a sanding pad with fresh 80 grit quality wet and dry paper and worked them down nice and flat all over now..  ( pad will get used for lots more sanding yet:) 
 
I have cap rails bending and use the soak, bend, dry technique. The ones in bowl are getting a head start..  Steam didn't seem to be that advantageous to me..   The square objects are lead weights.
 
5 days straight of rain here and plenty more to come, so good ship building weather..   Regards Ollie

Rain? What's rain?
 
Looking good, mate!
 
John

Just catching up after some time away, Ollie - she's coming along very nicely.
 
I'm not sure what the discussion was re the margin planks, but as Tom says, they were definitely cut in around the frames.
 
John

I believe that the margin plank or waterway plank is actually supposed to be inboard to the frames. Check out a section view if you can find one. My copy of the Alert Cutter by the Naval institute Press says it's inboard as part of the waterway and the spirketting???  Check out the plans again but I don't think that the frames were cut thru for any reason....strength... you know they took the recoil of the guns and white water over the rails at times.
 
Tom
 
P. S.  Darn it's looking very good!

I love to see restorations.  The process from point a to point b is fascinating.  This log is a great example.  Incredible work Dan.  I echo the thoughts to not be so harsh on the original builder.  While he was new to the craft he had the guts and persistence to get the Victory as far as he did.  I can't say I would have done the same.     

Thanks mate, your support is much appreciated. I have high expectations of myself and i can already see how second build would be so much easier..  The beech seems okay to bend, will pre soak and bend like i have the walnut.. Only thing is doesnt look like any other tinber on the ship and the lime wood which joins onto and extends  over the bulwark edge is quite a lighter shade.. Think im just going to go with it though. Regards ollie

Thanks Tom!   They have supplied flexible beech and limewood for cap rails.. Ollie

Thanks guys but i'm a bit lost with this discussion also.. I was concerned that so much of my margin plank got covered by deck trim. I also wondered why "frames" appeared above deck trim, I imagine that would continue through hull deck... Anyway it doesn't really matter I am just moving forward and doing what the instructions say at this stage.. I am happy with how it all looks and trying not to be too pedantic.. After all this first build should be a learning experience.. Regards Ollie