md1400cs

Hi everyone,
 
So finally an update that actually has moved forward, working on adding the outer rail decorative figures. One side is complete.
 
Turns out that the 1:10th has theses figures carved in two dimensions (same as the 1:1). Corel supplies their kits with complete three-dimensional figures. So, I sawed them in half.
 
Corel also supplies only one form of these figures, whereas the Vasa actually had several different looking figures, mounted in various forms of clothing and colors.
 
So, I painted them all the same to reflect the example in the photo below of the 1/10th (the one next to the cannon.) But allowing myself a bit of artistic license I kept a gold tinge in the hair. Them being Nordic and all (:-). I also finished the railing white trim on both sides. As usual thanks for dropping in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

JPett Joachim, John, Nigel, JanV, Mark
 
Guys thanks so much for your latest encouraging words. I have, as you might know, been bothered with past mistakes (ship-of course (:-) the other parts of my life have been perfect Hmmmmm..
 
I went back and looked at an error that would be too hard to fix now. Corel, as opposed to Billings, did not properly indicate how the upper deck entry framings should look, nor how high they should be above the deck.
 
So, if this might be of help for Corel Wasa kits under your tables, it could have been an easy adjustment (had I known)
 
I could have installed that middle portion of the weather deck template a bit lower, and added a rearward slope to the housings themselves, then added the cover planks.
 
Moving forward; looking forward to my next steps. Again thanks to all of you who post, click Like or just look in Big Thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Matti,
 
Nice update. looking very excellent. Be sure to put the "first class" toilets in the right place (:-)
 
Regards,
 
Michael

JPett Joachim, John, Nigel, JanV, Mark
 
Guys thanks so much for your latest encouraging words. I have, as you might know, been bothered with past mistakes (ship-of course (:-) the other parts of my life have been perfect Hmmmmm..
 
I went back and looked at an error that would be too hard to fix now. Corel, as opposed to Billings, did not properly indicate how the upper deck entry framings should look, nor how high they should be above the deck.
 
So, if this might be of help for Corel Wasa kits under your tables, it could have been an easy adjustment (had I known)
 
I could have installed that middle portion of the weather deck template a bit lower, and added a rearward slope to the housings themselves, then added the cover planks.
 
Moving forward; looking forward to my next steps. Again thanks to all of you who post, click Like or just look in Big Thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

JPett Joachim, John, Nigel, JanV, Mark
 
Guys thanks so much for your latest encouraging words. I have, as you might know, been bothered with past mistakes (ship-of course (:-) the other parts of my life have been perfect Hmmmmm..
 
I went back and looked at an error that would be too hard to fix now. Corel, as opposed to Billings, did not properly indicate how the upper deck entry framings should look, nor how high they should be above the deck.
 
So, if this might be of help for Corel Wasa kits under your tables, it could have been an easy adjustment (had I known)
 
I could have installed that middle portion of the weather deck template a bit lower, and added a rearward slope to the housings themselves, then added the cover planks.
 
Moving forward; looking forward to my next steps. Again thanks to all of you who post, click Like or just look in Big Thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

JPett Joachim, John, Nigel, JanV, Mark
 
Guys thanks so much for your latest encouraging words. I have, as you might know, been bothered with past mistakes (ship-of course (:-) the other parts of my life have been perfect Hmmmmm..
 
I went back and looked at an error that would be too hard to fix now. Corel, as opposed to Billings, did not properly indicate how the upper deck entry framings should look, nor how high they should be above the deck.
 
So, if this might be of help for Corel Wasa kits under your tables, it could have been an easy adjustment (had I known)
 
I could have installed that middle portion of the weather deck template a bit lower, and added a rearward slope to the housings themselves, then added the cover planks.
 
Moving forward; looking forward to my next steps. Again thanks to all of you who post, click Like or just look in Big Thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

JPett Joachim, John, Nigel, JanV, Mark
 
Guys thanks so much for your latest encouraging words. I have, as you might know, been bothered with past mistakes (ship-of course (:-) the other parts of my life have been perfect Hmmmmm..
 
I went back and looked at an error that would be too hard to fix now. Corel, as opposed to Billings, did not properly indicate how the upper deck entry framings should look, nor how high they should be above the deck.
 
So, if this might be of help for Corel Wasa kits under your tables, it could have been an easy adjustment (had I known)
 
I could have installed that middle portion of the weather deck template a bit lower, and added a rearward slope to the housings themselves, then added the cover planks.
 
Moving forward; looking forward to my next steps. Again thanks to all of you who post, click Like or just look in Big Thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

JPett Joachim, John, Nigel, JanV, Mark
 
Guys thanks so much for your latest encouraging words. I have, as you might know, been bothered with past mistakes (ship-of course (:-) the other parts of my life have been perfect Hmmmmm..
 
I went back and looked at an error that would be too hard to fix now. Corel, as opposed to Billings, did not properly indicate how the upper deck entry framings should look, nor how high they should be above the deck.
 
So, if this might be of help for Corel Wasa kits under your tables, it could have been an easy adjustment (had I known)
 
I could have installed that middle portion of the weather deck template a bit lower, and added a rearward slope to the housings themselves, then added the cover planks.
 
Moving forward; looking forward to my next steps. Again thanks to all of you who post, click Like or just look in Big Thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

JPett Joachim, John, Nigel, JanV, Mark
 
Guys thanks so much for your latest encouraging words. I have, as you might know, been bothered with past mistakes (ship-of course (:-) the other parts of my life have been perfect Hmmmmm..
 
I went back and looked at an error that would be too hard to fix now. Corel, as opposed to Billings, did not properly indicate how the upper deck entry framings should look, nor how high they should be above the deck.
 
So, if this might be of help for Corel Wasa kits under your tables, it could have been an easy adjustment (had I known)
 
I could have installed that middle portion of the weather deck template a bit lower, and added a rearward slope to the housings themselves, then added the cover planks.
 
Moving forward; looking forward to my next steps. Again thanks to all of you who post, click Like or just look in Big Thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Looking good! I also have the Corel kit - may try something really different like extremely weathered with no paint like the 1:1.

Fabulous build Mark.I seem to be being drawn more and more to Wasa build logs.I think my subconscious is trying to tell me something    
Kind Regards Nigel

I had a little progress this weekend.  Yesterday was time to clean the dust dirt and lizard s@#$ off my two classic cars.  That took all day, but the end result was sure worth it.  Also took them out for a short drive since they hadn't been out in 3 months.....was nice and about 75 degrees out.  So this morning I got the Fluke Chain Bit, and the Forehatch built and mounted on board.  Not much, but as Sjors and Augie say, any progress is .... progress.  I'm going to bypass building the Tryworks for now, hoping for some more pictures before tackling it.  I will now move aft and build the rudder, tiller, wheel, and hurricane house next.  Not sure the order of those yet, but they are all related back there.  So here we are now, and I'm working on the hurricane house first.  More pictures later.

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
Joachim, Matti, thanks for your comments. Buck I will check this out. I do remember something like that in JPett's log. Thanks
 
Here is the third, and last update regarding this "fix". It is hard to believe that I'm almost totally done with fixes.
 
The first photo was the original look of that part of the ship; before rebuilding the ladders, the gratings, the transom railings, the poop deck, as well as adding those two benches on each side of those doors, and adding white trim all along the outer edges of the railings.
 
The second pic is the same view after all of the repairs. Oh, as you can also see on that second pic, those "rope pulley things" (knightheads?) have been removed. They will also get re-invented to look correct. Those railings that Corel indicated should be added have also been removed.
 
In second photo you can really see the error built into the Corel kit regarding those "center" entry door framings. The housings are much too high. Just the upper rounded tops should rise above the weather deck. AND my lack of shaping them with a rearward slope (MY error) added to the problem. grrrrr (:-) That section of the deck should be just a bit lower. I could have done that as I was installing that first deck layer, but I was ignorant of that issue at that time. I've become a bit more critical since.
 
The rest of the pics are just a look around sort-of speak. I'm comfortable with this repair work and can now move forward.
 
1) Drill all hull cannon door and draw rope holes.
2) Build and install ratline frames
3) Figure out what to do regarding those square hole dilemmas for the railings
4) Cut in half, and paint the remaining gilded figures for the deck railings decorative bits.
 
Thanks for stopping by, always very much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

I bought my first proxxon tool the MF70 miller a few weeks ago and put it to work a few days ago.More than happy with the performance and I was getting accuracy around 5/100ths of a mm so  I have nothing but praise for the product and won't hesitate to add more of their tools to my lineup.It does exactly what it is supposed to do,yes I wouldn't use it to machine a v8 engine block,but that is not what it is designed for.The beauty of the proxxon range is that they make the tools we want that others don't.
Kind Regards Nigel 

Oh wow, great Work! Really interesting to follow your way, optimizing the Corel-based model. Up to now, I have not realised this problem in the Corel-model. I think your result is the best possible and will follow the next steps with great interest.
 
Regards, Joachim

Nice upgrades Michael!
 
 
/Matti

Hi Michael,
 
Instead of trying to round the tips of the square pieces, you could use loose tiny dowels sized to a tiny drill bit. I had really good luck (and it was a lot of fun) turning down birch tooth picks using JPett's Dremel and draw plate method when I made the tiny barrel spigot. The trick would be making a jig to center the drill in the bottom of the square posts. A perfect reason to get yourself a lighted Optivisor if you haven't already!!
 
Best wishes

Ahoy Mates
 
Zev: NP
 
Thought I should post an update on my progress and head off the rumors of another woman in my life.
 
Work has progressed very slowly for me at this stage. As anybody following my log knows, gunports have been a difficult subject for me. With this said, I decided to up the steaks and switch out the supplied 3/32nd by 1/32 basswood with Boxwood.
 
For anybody interested; the boxwood made a considerable difference in the strength of my gunwales: but it required a slightly higher skill level to work and some additional tool expenditures. I used my Vanda Lay to mill out the planks for the ports which was very helpful but in the end I still spent hours tuning them with a super sharp skinny Xacto blade (see pic insert and my Strop post). I also had to throw in a few cheaters to fudge my sills around plank seams.
 
Once done I was treated to the fact that no two of my gunports were the same size. This debacle took me hours to fix. It was very unnerving to trim the hardwood planking and not cut out the basswood gunport sill directly behind it or carve out something unwanted in the front. Beer was used to settle my nerves after each session.  While not perfect I am stopping now before I do something I regret. See I can learn.
 
Just not too much at once 
 
For reasons unknown. I decided I would sand off the lip of the wales in the bow and create more work for myself. While the bulk of this repair is done. (Sorry no pics, I used CA, tape and accelerator) It still needs a little TLC (wood filler). I also dropped the black wale down slightly in the bow. My earlier error tapering the wale planks (don't do this) was highlighted by this work. It still is, just not as badly now.
 
I am not sure if I will do any treenails on the gunwales. I might flank the gunports ports with railroad spikes "ala" MDJ's Wasa. If I do any treenails they would have be the simulated "bolt" style I recently learned. My concern is how they will look on the 3/32nd wood with the real ones on the hull. I also plan on another full blown TN party for the deck.
 
It just might be too many treenails. If there is such a thing
 
I  went with black on the ports (not red) and will be changing the color of the fashion piece on the stern to match this ( I liked what Eric did). For the Gunwales I am currently playing with a light wash of Ochre. My original staining Idea hit a reef and went down like Miley at the VMA's on the 5th plank. The inner wales or ceilings will be basswood with natural finish like the hull. .
 
Am I happy? I will give this a passing grade but hope to do a slightly better job on the Starboard side. Now that I know some of the pitfalls.