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Glenn-UK
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HMS Harpy 1796 by Glenn-UK – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
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I have now completed adding the shrouds to both the main and fore topgallant masts. Both the main and fore topgallant mast stays have also been run in. I now have a number of rigged threads to belay. When looking at the plan sheets for the main topgallant mast stays I noted a slight anomaly. There is a 4mm double block fitted to the top of the fore topsail mast which is used for the main topgallant mast stay, as shown below. I could not understands why this was a double block and then noted that this double block is also used for the two topgallant yard braces which made much more sense. I decided to add an additional 3mm single block to the fore topsail mast cap for reeving the stay. The next two photos shows these blocks. The next two photos show the various back stays that are belayed to the channel. The next photo shows the main topgallant mast stays, which have been rigged but are waiting to be belayed. The final two photos shows the current build status.
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HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Glenn-UK reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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HMS Harpy 1796 by Richard44 - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Glenn-UK reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Glenn-UK reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Glenn-UK reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Glenn-UK reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Glenn-UK reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Glenn-UK reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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The next task undertaken was adding the shrouds to both the main and fore topgallant masts. This was a fairly straightforward task. I did fix the wayward catharpin which can be seen in the second photo. I did not look at the rigging plans properly as I missed the following note which I should have done before adding the topgallant shrouds. Thankfully this is not a show stopper error as I did find it possible to add these blocks with the topgallant shrouds in situ. There were not fixed in place as per the plan requirements but they are acceptable to me. I started the process of adding these blocks by seizing the 3mm blocks. I used two lengths of threads so I could have thread available at each end of the block. In the photo below the first thread has been wrapped around the block and held in place with a simple crossover knot. The second thread was inserted in the under the first thread as the crossover knot was tightened. With the thread held in the quad hands the first thread was seized, as can be seen below. The block was then reversed in the quad hands so the second thread could be seized, as shown below. The first two blocks are now ready to be added. The first block has been fitted.
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Over the last couple of days I have been working on the Royal and Shifting backstays.. The Royal backstay is a simple task as it drops down from the top mast (fore and main) and has a deadeye at the end which is rigged with a lanyard with a deadeye on the channel. The shifting backstay is a slightly more complicated arrangement. The shifting stay drops down from the top mast and has a 5mm block added to the end. It is then belayed to the channel via two 3mm blocks and two eyebolts. After I added a 5mm single block to the end of shifting stay I moved on to the 2 off 3mm blocks. A thread is passed through the 5mm block with a 3mm block on one end and the other end is belayed to eyebolt on the channel. With the first 3mm block is seized the thread is then added as shown in next set of photos. The other end of the first 3mm block also requires a length of thread adding. I used a needle to add the thread which is then seized as shown below. Another 3mm block is seized to an eyebolt. With the eyebolts added to the channels the various shifting stay threads were then run in They will be tied off later off in the rigging process.
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Before moving on to the next stage I realised I had not added the catharpins to the fore and main tops masts. I have refined my method in this respect which should ensure they are all made to the correct length, 2 off required for each topmast. I started the process by making a loop in one end of the thread. The thread is wrapped around a 1mmD copper bar, held in the quad hands and the seizing is then added. I then made a jig, using two lengths of 1mmD copper bar set to the required distance. The catharpin thread is then placed over one of the copper pins. The other end of the thread is wrapped around the other pin and then held in place using the quad hands, as can be seen below. It is then a simple task to add the seizing so the second loop is formed. It did not take long to make the four catharpins. I did add a small amount of ca clue along the length to stiffen them. The final task was to secure these to the shrouds. A length of thread was secured to each catharpin loop using a simple reef (square) knot. The thread were then passed around the futtock stave and toed off, once again using a reef knot. The excess threads were then cut off.
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I have completed adding the ratlines to both the fore and main topmasts. Fore topmast Main topmast Next I started to add the main and fore topmast stays and preventor stays. Main topmast The main topmast stay and preventor have been fed through the blocks located on the fore mast and are now ready to be belayed. The final photo shows the current state of the build.
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Work is still progressing on the fore and main top mast shrouds. The futtocks staves have now been added. Fore topmast Main topmast Harpy The next set of photos does not show my workmanship in the best light. The next task is adding the ratlines. I have added all the bottom most ratline to both the fore and main topmasts. I can now work my way upward adding every 5th ratline, as indicated by the 1's on my template. I did mark one of the 3's as a 2 on my template as can be seen below but I did correct this. Next I add the next set of every 5th ratline, which are marked as the 2's on my template. The final task is to add all the remaining ratlines, which are the 3's on my template. I have made a start on adding the 3's.
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I have not made much progress over the last few days as I have been refining my method for attaching the deadeyes to the shrouds. After a bit of adjustment I now have a way of working which suits me and appears to yield good results. In simple terms a deadeye is seized in a shroud line before off boat, with a rough approximation of the required position made. With the shroud line then placed on the mast the position of the deadeye can be checked. I have found it is possible to slide the deadeye up or down, as necessary. Once I am happy with the position of the deadeye the upper two seizing can be added, again off boat. As each shroud pair is complete and placed on the mast the lanyards can then be added.
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Nicely done 👏
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I have started work on the topmast shrouds. The first task was to make all the shroud pairs for both the main and fore mast. I used a spare piece of dowel to set the loop to the right size so it will fit nicely over the topmast. I have decided to try an experiment with regards to adding the deadeyes to the shroud lines. With the first shroud lines in place I passed some thread through to indicate where the top edge of the deadeye should be positioned so that lanyard distance between the deadeyes would be approx. 6 to 7mm. The deadeye was then sized,, it was much easier to do this off the boat. With a test fit of the completed first shroud pair I am happy with how the method makes the task much easier however I made a slight miscalculation with the position of the shroud deadeyes, as the lanyard spacing is approx. 10mm which is too much.
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After a weekend away looking after some of our grandchildren I have now been able to spend a little bit of time in the shipyard. The main and fore topsail masts and associated platforms were painted as shown in the plan sheets and then test fitted, as shown below. I then did a quick test fit of the main and fore topgallant masts. Next I did a test fit of the main and fore topsail yards. I am happy with how they look. They will now be removed and will fitted at a later stage in the rigging process. My next task, I thought, would be to add the topsail shrouds. However I then realised I had forgotten to add the futtock stave rigging. This is now currently work in progress and will keep me busy for the next few days. I have added a couple of photos of my progress to date.
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Moving on slowly I have now added the bowsprit shrouds and stays. As can be seen in the first set of photos below the lanyards have been run in but not tied off. In the next set of photos the lanyards have been tied off, starting with the main and foremast stays and preventor stays. This is not some of my finest work but I am pleased to have completed this part of the rigging.
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I am still basking in the warm sunshine and spending much of my time in the garden and very little time in the shipyard. I have been able to add the main and foremast stays and preventor stays. I am reasonably happy with how they look. I opted to make my own mouse parts rather than using the kit supplied parts. The lanyards have not been tied off as yet.
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Nicely done Maurice.
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Work has continued on the bowsprit. As can be seen in the photo below I have added all the deadeyes and blocks, using the method detailed in my previous post. I then decided to add the spritsail yard prior to installation of the bowsprit to the Harpy. The spritsail lifts have been rigged and will be belayed once the bowsprit has been installed. The bow sprit was then installed. Next it was time to add the gammoning. To do this a thimble needs to be added to one end of the gammoning thread. As can be seen in the next set of photos this is an easy task, using the quad hands. The next set of photos shows various stages of adding the gammoning, including the tying off. Please note I did redo the start as the way I used the thimble in the first photo below was not right.
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Nicely done
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