Glenn-UK

I have not made much progress over the last few days as I have been refining my method for attaching the deadeyes to the shrouds. After a bit of adjustment I now have a way of working which suits me and appears to yield good results. In simple terms a deadeye is seized in a shroud line before off boat, with a rough approximation of the required position made. With the shroud line then placed on the mast the position of the deadeye can be checked. I have found it is possible to slide the deadeye up or down, as necessary. Once I am happy with the position of the deadeye the upper two seizing can be added, again off boat. As each shroud pair is complete and placed on the mast the lanyards can then be added.

Nicely done 👏

I have started work on the topmast shrouds. The first task was to make all the shroud pairs for both the main and fore mast. I used a spare piece of dowel to set the loop to the right size so it will fit nicely over the topmast. I have decided to try an experiment with regards to adding the deadeyes to the shroud lines. With the first shroud lines in place I passed some thread through to indicate where the top edge of the deadeye should be positioned so that lanyard distance between the deadeyes would be approx. 6 to 7mm. The deadeye was then sized,, it was much easier to do this off the boat. With a test fit of the completed first shroud pair I am happy with how the method makes the task much easier however I made a slight miscalculation with the position of the shroud deadeyes, as the lanyard spacing is approx. 10mm which is too much.

After a weekend away looking after some of our grandchildren I have now been able to spend a little bit of time in the shipyard. The main and fore topsail masts and associated platforms were painted as shown in the plan sheets and then test fitted, as shown below. I then did a quick test fit of the main and fore topgallant masts. Next I did a test fit of the main and fore topsail yards. I am happy with how they look. They will now be removed and will fitted at a later stage in the rigging process. My next task, I thought, would be to add the topsail shrouds. However I then realised I had forgotten to add the futtock stave rigging. This is now currently work in progress and will keep me busy for the next few days. I have added a couple of photos of my progress to date.

Moving on slowly I have now added the bowsprit shrouds and stays. As can be seen in the first set of photos below the lanyards have been run in but not tied off. In the next set of photos the lanyards have been tied off, starting with the main and foremast stays and preventor stays. This is not some of my finest work but I am pleased to have completed this part of the rigging.

I am still basking in the warm sunshine and spending much of my time in the garden and very little time in the shipyard. I have been able to add the main and foremast stays and preventor stays. I am reasonably happy with how they look. I opted to make my own mouse parts rather than using the kit supplied parts. The lanyards have not been tied off as yet.

Nicely done Maurice.

Work has continued on the bowsprit. As can be seen in the photo below I have added all the deadeyes and blocks, using the method detailed in my previous post. I then decided to add the spritsail yard prior to installation of the bowsprit to the Harpy. The spritsail lifts have been rigged and will be belayed once the bowsprit has been installed. The bow sprit was then installed. Next it was time to add the gammoning. To do this a thimble needs to be added to one end of the gammoning thread. As can be seen in the next set of photos this is an easy task, using the quad hands. The next set of photos shows various stages of adding the gammoning, including the tying off. Please note I did redo the start as the way I used the thimble in the first photo below was not right.

Nicely done

Due to the heat wave we are currently enjoying in the UK my time is the shipyard has been severely limited as I have spent much more time in the garden. When grabbing a bit of time in the shipyard I have been working on adding the various blocks and deadeyes to the bowsprit and spritsail yard. The attached plan shows the requirement with regards to the deadeye rings. I thought I would share the process I am using for adding the 4 x deadeye rings. I start by looping a length of thread around the deadeye and securing with a reef knot. The deadeye is then placed in the quad hands so the seizing can be added. In the next photo I have added the seizing to the deadeye. Next I create a loop with one end of the thread, noting the other thread end has been cut away. This is then held in the quad hands so the loop can be seized. Once the loop has been seized the loop is threaded on to another length of thread, as shown below. The loop can the be closed up by pulling the free end of thread, and the excess thread is then cut away. With all four deadeyes in place the thread can be secured to the bowsprit. The position of deadeyes can then be adjusted, as necessary.

Work is progressing slowly but steadily on adding the main mast ratlines. Whilst I did like the idea of adding the yard to the mast prior to this task as it made the rigging the jeers much easier I have found the yard, when in situ, does hinder adding the upper few rows of ratlines. I started the process by adding the futtock staves, using a template to set the height equally on both sides. The copper bar was held in place using my quad hands whilst it was secured to the shroud lines. Once that was done it was simply a case of adding the ratlines. As per my earlier post I prefer to add every 5th one initially and then everyone central one between the first set of ratlines before adding the final set. I finds this method works as it prevents the hourglass effect. Also it helps to prevent having to many sagging ratlines. As can be seen in the photo below they are not perfect and I do need to adjust a couple of them but I am reasonably happy with the end result. In the next photo I have added the first two sets of ratlines on the other side and I have just started to add the final set of ratlines. I tend to leave the lowest ratlines until the end. I did record a video of adding a set of ratlines, which uploaded to YouTube YouTube Video Link If you look at the video please note that a) It was very difficult to set up the camera to record this process, in this instance the camera need to be pointed upward a bit more. b) I started by passing the ratine thread through a block of beeswax, but this bit is out of focus c) I then make a series of clove hotch knots, as each clove hitch knot is made I check it position with the template and adjust as necessary d) I am also checking the vertical alignment of the shroud lines with the marked lines on the template.

Hi Ross If you look at my previous post you will see how I have marked the ratline template with 1, 2 and 3. I will add all the 1's (every 5th one) first as I have found this helps prevent the dreaded hourglass shroud shape. This is because the vertical slants can be set with just a few ratlines added. Once that is done the infill ratlines can be added Once I haved added all the 1's I will add all the 2's which are spaced evenly between the 1's. Finally I will add all the 3's. As you will note my template has both horizontal and vertical guide lines. However sometimes I do find it necessary to redo some of the ratlines. Hope that answers your question

Starting to add the first ratlines, as mentioned in my last post I am adding every 5th one to start with. When I had completed adding every 5th ratline I did then the next ratline above the top 5th ratline. As I started to add the next set of ratlines I noted that I may need to revisit some of the one previously added, as can be seen below. With the next set of ratlines added I am still noting which ones may need to be redone. Moving on to adding the next set, as can be seen below With the ratlines completed I now need to decide which ones do not pass muster and will need to be redone. Reworked some of the ratlines and they look much better, as can be seen in the photo below. Some could still be redone but as far as I am concerned they look OK.

Now that I am finally happy with the how the foremast shroud lines are looking with the deadeyes the lanyards were tied off. In preparation for adding the ratlines I printed out a template. I angled the bottom edge of the template so the ratlines will be level, when fitted. Before adding the ratlines I decided to add the futtock staves. I used my quad hands to hold the copper bar in place, as shown below. I marked off the position of the futtock stave on the template and then adjusted the position of the copper bar to the required height. It was then a case of adding some seizing. In the next photo I have secured to futtock staff to three of the shroud lines. In the next photo both the futtock staves have been added. By marking the position of the futtock stave on the templates they both should be set to the same height. Next I made the catharpins. These are simply a length of thread with loops on each end. Seizing thread was then added to the loops. It was then a case of securing the catharpins to the futtock staves. With the template in place I did make a start adding the ratlines. As per my normal method I marked the order of fitting on the template. I will add every 5th one starting with the 1's. Once that is done I will add all the 2's and then all the 3's. I have also added some vertical guidelines.

Following on from my last post I thought I would detail how I went about resetting the distance between the channel and shroud deadeyes. I started by marking both the current position of the top of the shroud deadeye and the required height of 20mmm on a template, as shown below. Once all the old seizing threads were removed, with the exception of the deadeye positioning thread, a new positioning thread was added using the marked template as a guide. This is shown in the next photo. A new deadeye loop was formed and held in position using the quad hands. The deadeye loop seizing was then added using three cross over knots, as shown in the next two photos. The formed loop was then closed up around the deadeye and the excess thread trimmed. A touch of ca glue was used to secure the loop seizing. The shroud line was then placed in the quad hands so the remaining seizing could be added, using a series of cross over knots, 5 cross over knots per side. The shroud line was then test fitted and the distance checked. As can be seen below the distance now seems to be about right.