rybakov

Hello all,
 
after building the Dragon, I'm starting now the blog about building the Tiger from 1747.
 
The Tiger was a 60 gunner after the 1745 establisment. Last year I ordered the plans for the 60 gunners of the 1745 establishment, but learned later that all the 6 ships, build after that plan, where all a little different. So I decided to build the Tiger and that, because it was the only plan that shows also the artwork of the ship. Interessting is also, that they moved the captains cabin sometimes down to the upper deck! There was more space.
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!csearch;searchTerm=Tiger_(1747) Here you could see the plans.
 
Then last fall I went to Chatham to see two models of 60 gunners, the Centurion and a unspecified ship (SLR0442 SLR0472). Both ships from the 1730s, but the models are made ca. 1745/47. They will be my reference for the Tiger.
 
And because I had build the Dragon already with frames, I decided to be lazy and build in the bulwark technique. So I started early this year with the hull and that he is.
 

 

 

 
 
 
But before I started with the hull, I made the figure head. Just to see if I could do it after pause for a year. 
 

 
And before the questions come, with what did you do the carving, here is most of it to see. Just with hand tools. To the right you see Leo the second.
 

 
And here is Leo III. From toe to crown hi is 9 cm high, in reality he was 4,5 m high  
 

 

 

 
Here Leo did a sit sample. The guy in the background it's me. 
 

 

 
The next steps would be to close the counter and then made the cannon ports. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back to the slices 🙂
 
Luckily found some old spare decks to cut a small stripe for the visible Gangway.
 

 
Then "tarred" the hammock netting, this time a bit darker than I usually do.
 

 
Used some paper stripes for easy assembly ...
 

 
... shortened the inboard side ...
 

 
... and fixed it.
 

 
Then fixed the net on the rope on the outboard side, always giving a touch of gravity into the ropes.
 

 
Made the hammocks with Magic Sculpt.
 

 
Dry test ...
 

 
... and the colored with all the colors of life ...
 

 
... and put in place
 

 
Still thinking how the cover should be fixed in a contemporary fashion ...
 

 
XXXDAn

Hi 🙂

Hi, and tanks🙂

Hi 🙂

Let’s continue with our project.....
 
To finish the sewed process in the hull, we need to fix the “skates” that will receive the mast......
 


 
And.... the mast....
 

 

Depends on the hatch board and the intended method of lifting. The most common mistake made by modelers when creating lifting hardware for hatchboards, is that they an not made to rest flush  with the surface of the board. Hatches are battened down after covering with an old tarp or two or three, then the top weatherproof cover is put in place and battened down, don't want lumps to trip over or to wear a hole in the tarps, so flush with the lifting hardware, regardless of type.
 

some small progress:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

@FriedClams
@Dowmer
Hi, many thanks for your nice comments, and all the others for the many LIKES.
The largest anchor of the corvette is placed on the anchor brackets. About the final fastening I still have to get clear.

compartiments du faux pont:
 

After finishing the futtock shrouds for the main mast I need some motivational work in between. 
Therefore I prepare the fixing of the anchors, which were stowed away in front of the channels of the main mast.


But the wooden anchor stocks made many years ago no longer meet my expectations.


Therefore, they have been rebuilt as in the original. The hoops are made of brass sheet 0.3 mm, no longer of black paper.

 

 


The anchor ring had to be equipped with puddening and seizing. I decided to use the Petrejus version, which can be seen on many contemporary models of the Musee de la Marine.

Source: E.W. Petrejus „Das Modell der Brigg Irene“                 

Source: Manuel Du Gabier, 1866
 

 

 

Now.... all the frames in their places........ planks being sewed...

Its been an interesting couple of days. I managed to get one roof sanded to shape and then I added the tiles. The first row of tiles overhangs the roof slightly and touches the molding below. Other than the last tile at the end of each row, I did not reduce the tile widths. With each row, I set the the tops of the tiles to touch each other and then angled them as needed to align into a staggered pattern with the row below. Each row was sanded paper thin at the top and reduced to about a 1/64" at the bottom. Then the next row was added. I also added the molding that sits on top. The molding has the added benefit of cleaning up the edge of that last row of tiles. I will be painting the roof black and applying some weathering powder to tone down the color.

Mike

Small update: Things are moving a bit slowly lately, but I did manage to get some work done. I've been jumping around a bit in the build sequence which seems okay for now. Here are few photos showing where I'm at.

 

 
Looking at the laser cut sheet one can see that the 5 moldings that run along the top edge of the transom are not all the same width. Only the center molding at the very top is correct. The other 4 are slightly wider and the lower edge of each needs to be reduced in width in order to match the center molding.
 
I found that PVA glue doesn't work well for adhering the figures so I suggest using medium CA which works very well.
 
The green paper on the transom was cut back approx 3/64" along its outer edge to allow for a gluing surface.
 

 
Mike

Hi friends I put some photos of the Victory, I am putting the filling ribs provisionally, I intend to leave them at this height to have a greater space between the raising ribs, in this way you can have a smoother view on the various bridges and observe better interior details.

Here we go again.
First cleaning the front edge of the channel board from paint and leveling the heights of the irons ...
 

 
... and then fixing the batten to hold the deadeyes in place.
 

 
From near one can see the difference nicely. One more area finished.
 

 
Then the gunport lanyards. 
 

 
Still had some sprue, that was hollowed and pulled over the candle, resulting in nice micro tubes 🙂
Those bits were made from leather, to protect against friction and to keep water out. Took a needle to reopen the holes after cutting and used the intended thread to check the inner diameter.
 

 
The spliced the ring onto the lanyard and hooked the ring onto the lid. Checked from near and I think it could be considered to be ok.
 

 
So five or six more lids to go ...
 
Grüßle, Daniel

Just a quick update:
 

In all likelihood, I will cut away the smaller, inside wings because they interfere with my aft octagonal ports.  However, until the amortisement is made and I can see the actual relationships of all these parts, I wanted to keep all options open.
 
Tomorrow I will start the heads, but my own head is growing weary and my neck is getting sore, after sitting hunched over these gals all day.  I tend to start making mistakes when I push through.
 
A few of those mistakes, I’ll be filling-in with BONDO, this evening, as I prepare the main deck for painting and priming; some of my nail impressions were poorly placed, and/or ill-conceived.
 
I’m excited to get back to a little painting, though.  In addition to the Windsor and Newton Van Dyke Brown, I will experiment with a lightish grey Windsor and Newton oil shade, that will be applied and wiped streakily before a blanket application of the brown.
 
The deck is coarsely sanded, so it should pick up these colors nicely.

Hi🙂
 
 

With the 3.2 mm I was able to work the channels an lineal holes.....
 


 
This face is the one that at the end will be hidden....

Finally I was able to put it in the mold to configure the curve and forms...
 

 
It is time to start with the laterals...... it will continue

Steady progress:



One of the things that anatomy forces you to learn are ways in which to introduce the soft hollows of a body, with whatever tool can get into tight spaces.  In the area of the belly and hips, I don’t have a gouge that’s small enough to get in, close to the side of the body, without the arm getting in the way.
 
What I use is the hooked knife to scrape hollows on a bias, according to the same principle of cutting a cove moulding on a table saw, by running a fence at an angle to the blade.  The scraping motion, at an angle, gently introduces a hollow that, in this case, defines a fleshy love handle. Each scrape removes just a little material at a time, and eventually you arrive at where you want to be.
 
One other thing I’d like to mention is the undercutting of the upper thigh.  I could simply define the lap line, where one thigh rests against the other.  This would look okay.  However, the pose of the figure suggests that the outer thigh overhangs the other leg.
 
What I like to do here, to suggest this, is that after I have first defined that meeting line - the line that delineates the shape and proportion of each thigh - I come back with sharply angled scrapes that undercut the outer thigh.  I use the sharply beveled tip of the EXACTO to do this.  The accentuated shadow line creates a false sense of depth in what is a very shallow carving.
 
While I wait for my #80 drill bits to arrive, I have made and fit the fore and aft sections of the main deck. Unlike the middle deck, where I had to make mast plates to fix the plumb and rake of each mast - I now had a reliable reference to measure the exact centerline of the fore and mizzen masts; I could measure directly from the fore and aft edges of the main deck center section to the center of each mast.  The masts are all in alignment, now, and the slight bow of the mizzen will eventually be corrected by the stays and shrouds.
 
I have also decided to re-enforce the main deck hatch openings with carlings that are scribed to the longitudinal curvature of the deck.  The styrene I’m using for the decks is a bit thinner than what the stock kit provides, and is not as rigid.  It is my pathology to overbuild the whole thing, so, here you go:


I enjoy the exercise of scribing and fitting these curved parts because it is good practice for when I eventually transition to wooden builds.
 
Thank you for looking in.  More to follow...

I always love the original artefacts 🙂 
 
Here is the belle 🙂
 

 
XXXDAn
 

Just a small update.
 
Here is how the oars are fixed to the "gunwale" (can it be a gunwale when guns haven't been invented yet?).
 
A hole drilled into the gunwale just aft of the thole (see red circle).
 

 
 
And a hole in the oar, with a brass pin inserted. Then the pin is put into the hole in the gunwale and the whole assembly glued in place - both at the gunwale and at the oarsman's hands. The handle didn't quite line up with the oarsman's hands, so I moved the oar's pivot point slightly further along the shaft - so the whole oar was slightly further outboard. 
 

 
I'm now regretting putting the pavesade (the railing that will hold the defensive shields) in place so early. It's made access rather difficult, particularly when drilling holes. It was a problem when I was trying to drill holes for the ringbolts, and now again trying to drill holes to pivot the oars - the home-made drill I made from a small brass pin  wasn't long enough, and I had to make a longer one from a dressmaker's pin with the end cut off.
 
 The first oarsman is finally complete, painted and glued in place, holding his oar (note the lemon yellow hose!). Not totally happy about the inboard hand on this one, but as I get more experience with doing these I'm sure I will improve.
 
 
 
I'm trying to work out the best way to portray the loop of leather or rope that holds the oar to the thole - as it would have been pretty thin I'll probably just use a bit of cotton glued around the oar.

Work on the main deck continues:



The gratings required a little extra attention to get them to lay in an even plane.
 
The main mast plate finally secured the mast, perpendicular to the keel, but the extra thickness of the plate and coamings necessitated a little inletting of the deck furniture:







Next, I will drill all of the nailing impressions, and then I will paint the deck.
 
Work on the forward MerAngels is proceeding nicely:

 
Thank you to everyone for your likes, your comments and for looking in. 

Hello,
in the meantime I also fixed the guiding blocks for the bunt lines at the bottom of the maintop.

 

 

Michel Saunier has very graciously agreed to share some of the specific information he has compiled about Soleil Royal, over the years.  In his working life, Mr. Saunier was an engineer, and the following spreadsheet is a sort of mathematical portrait of the ship.  There is more than enough information, here, to make a really sound reconstruction of Soleil Royal, just as Mr. Saunier is doing.  For his part, he combined this dimensional information with the work of Jean Boudriot, who drafted plans for L'Ambiteaux, in order to arrive at his hull form.  Below is the Google Translated version of the letter he sent me, accompanied by the spreadsheet, which is staggering in its completeness.  As he implores me to do at the end of this letter, I hope we will all make good use of this tremendous gift of scholarship.  For so many of us who are lacking the means to go visit the archives for the many weeks it would take to sift through and assemble this information, this truly is a tremendous gift of intellectual effort and demonstrates his absolute commitment to the project of resurrecting Soleil Royal.  Perhaps this information exists, somewhere, on-line.  But, go find it.  I've been searching on-line for years and have only come away with the basic dimensions of the ship.   I will not attempt to translate the XCEL spreadsheet, for fear that I may in-advertently make a mistake that is mis-leading.  Frankly, I have yet to sift through the document in any detailed way, but I can see just how complete it is.  Everything you'll see is in the antiquated French foot, so just multiply by the Battle of Hastings (1.066) to arrive at the modern English foot.
 
Thank you Michel Saunier!
 
From M. Saunier via Google Translate:
 
good morning Marc

I recovered in its time a document of the "Havre de Grace" which indicates a survey of the dimensions of a ship in Brest on the shipyards. This vessel is marked "drilled at 16", that is to say with 16 ports on the first battery. At that time only the Royal Sun was pierced at 16 and moreover all the dimensions correspond. It is therefore a document of a survey of the SR in 1688.

On the other hand I have found another document which gives the dimensions of the elements of the mature of the Royal Sun.

I have other documents found elsewhere that supplement this data.

I have gathered this data in an EXCEL file. I join him to this message.

All that is missing are the water lines, but I have reconstituted them to the best for my project.

Make good use of this gift.

Michel
 
 
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