rybakov

Here, the sunlight is soon coming back, I've taken this opprtunity to prepare a fast afternoon photo bonus :


 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-one
 
Completing the Carronades.
One of the most tiresome aspects of completing the carronades is assembling the iron straps and breeching rings. 2mm ø Amati rings were used.

3268

3272
These are tiny things attached to the side of the bed and I found it useful to hold the beds in an angled vice to perform the attachment, using ca.

3273
With the Iron work completed, the barrels are glued into place.
I have set the bed to the inboard position as I prefer it to the ‘outboard’ look.

3280

3290

3287

3291
Following a test fit on the deck, the carronades will be squirrelled away as work continues.

3293
Relieved this tiresome aspect is completed, but more tedium beckons with the ironwork for the inner bulwarks.
 
 
B.E.
16/01/2024
 

Hello,
after a longer pause at the shipyard, is here now again action 
The carpenters build and installed the standards for the port side. Some weeks before they turned the pillars for this deck.



 

Post One Hundred and Thirty
Carronades.
The 42 pounders are nicely made with resin barrels, Pear beds, slides, and etch fittings.
They will be highly visible items on my build, without the distraction of top hamper.
 
I had already made up four carronades for the cabin area, and those seemed to take an age to assemble with the multiple stages.

3230
Assembling the remaining 14 is an endurance exercise but it helps to set up a production platform.
The iron work was chemically blackened, and the barrels treated with dark brown weathering powder after painting.
I replaced the kit breeching ring with Amati 2mm rings and added the Royal Monogram to the barrels.

3236
These are available as laser board items in different sizes from Syren. Always worth having a supply on hand.

3233
The Monograms were applied before priming and painting.

3238

3241
Three days’ work to complete the painting of guns, beds and slides.
 
My mind returned to the possibility of adding winding bars to the elevation screw.

3253
I played around using cut-down 0.6mmø pins for the screw to which tiny eyebolts are added for the winding bars.

3255

3258
I thought about representation of the threads. The smallest threaded bar I can find is M1 which at 1mm ø is too large, but at 1:64 scale such detail would be very fine, and barely seen.

3251
On balance it looks better to my eye with them than without.
 
There still remain the iron work to attach to the bed and slides before I can complete assembly.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
 
14/01/2024
 

Equipment of the topgallant yards– Itague de vergue de grand perroquet
In the meantime I'm working on equipping the topgallant yards.
I'm slowly starting to get the feeling that the higher I get in the rigging, the less information there is about the details; be it from the monograph or from the relevant specialist literature. There is obviously less to be found on the internet. Apparently it is due to the importance or meaning of the components, as a large yard literally has more weight.
Or to put it somewhat jokingly, the higher the air, the thinner the air..., of course, meant the information density... 😊
 
So I brought together information about the execution of the truss from a wide variety of sources, as can be seen in the following pictures.
Accordingly, from my point of view, I was able to clarify the execution of the tye with the double strop for the top gallant. I think that this detail can also be used analogously for the royals.
 

Source: Detailed photo detail of the original model Musée national de la Marine – edited / Atlas du Génie Maritime – edited
 
The implementation for the main topgallant yard of the model then looks like this, as shown. The “mousing” as a hook lock is only attached when the yard is finally equipped.

 
We then continued with the truss. This was made like the truss for the topsail yards with leather coating.
The following drawing by K. H. Marquardt, but served.

Source: Karl Heinz Marquardt, Masting and Rigging of 18th Century Ships
 
In the last two pictures you can see the tye and the truss for the main topgallant yard,  which will only be finally lashed to the topgallant mast of the model later.

 

 
In the next step I will work on making the quarter blocks as double blocks with a length of 3.0 mm for the topgallant yards, which are used to guide the royal sheets and clew lines.
 
So, see you soon….

 

@matiz
@jfhealey
Hello,
many thanks for the nice comments, and also thanks for the LIKES.
 
Actually, the equipment elements of the individual yards are more or less repeated again and again, except that the further up you go in the rigging, the smaller the dimensions.
So I could deal with this chapter in a condensed form.
But if you know me, you know that I'm merciless until the last yards ... 😁
 
Completion: Equipping the mizzen topsail yard - Vergue de perroquet de fouge
The clew lines with the corresponding blocks, the sheet and the lifts were added to the final equipment of the mizzen topsail yard.
See the following pictures:



I'm still not quite sure whether the reef tackles should be simple and with a hook or with a block. I still need to do some research on this. Regardless of this, this yard will now be put to one side with the already equipped yards and work will begin on equipping the topgallant yards.
 
To be continued ...
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-nine
Gudgeons
With the rudder in place the line of the straps can be marked.

1782A
The straps are easily lined up on the hull to butt against the  Gudgeon centres.
Trickier to fit than the rudder straps and care must be taken to avoid ca spread. The tape helps a little with this.

3216

3217
The Laser Board straps adhere well to the hull.

1787A
A touch-in of black paint on the stern post edges finishes the effect which should be the look of complete iron brackets attached to the hull.
Has the design achieved this; in my view it has.

3221
This is also a convenient time to apply the Horseshoe and Fish plates to the lower hull.

3227
These are brass etch versions, but they are another item suitable for Laser Board production.

3219

3222
A carronade assembly session looms, what joy.🙄
 
 
B.E.
10/01/2024
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-eight
 
Shipping the rudder
I thought I would add the rudder now as fitting involves positioning the hull for access.
The rudder has a central Pear core with facings engraved to represent the tablings and other sections that properly make up the rudder of a large ship.

1754a
As I won’t be coppering, all this detail will remain visible.

3198
Before assembly of the rudder it is a good idea to check the fit thro’ the rudder port and against the stern post.
I found I needed to fettle the port a little to get the head of the rudder into position.
 

5434
With regard to rudders I have mostly used the Syren system which produces a moving rudder on individual pintles and gudgeons.

2271(2)
On Sphinx the kit provided ‘faux’ pintles/ gudgeons (above) were a thin brass etch affair which didn’t do it for me, and I used the Syren system.
 
The arrangement on ‘Indy’ is a much-improved resin version of a pintle/gudgeon combo and with laser board straps replacing the brass etch.

1750a
Chris has done a fine job in replicating these items and I am sufficiently impressed to use them on my build.
 
These little widgets slot into the Rudder beautifully, and the corresponding gudgeons match to the slots in the stern post.

1759a
The strap positions are marked on the rudder for the pintles, for accurate fitting.
I think it is also a good move to make the straps out of laser board, saves all that brass blackening and then messing it up during fitting.

1778a
The manual indicates use of brass pins inserted into drilled holes on the straps. I prefer to represent the bolts on the straps using blobs of pva applied with a toothpick.
 
The final addition to the rudder is the Spectacle plate.

1763a
This is chemically blackened brass etch.

1767b

1786a

1765a
The fit of the rudder is excellent, with a good push fit.
With this system there are no worries about getting a close fit to the stern post.
 
Well done Chris.👍
 
 
B.E.
09/01/2024
 
 

@giampieroricci
@Nunnehi (Don)
Thank you very much for your interest in my work and the kind words.
I would also like to thank you all for the many LIKES.
 
A happy new year 2024 to all.
 
Continuation: Equipping the mizzen topsail yard - Vergue de perroquet de fouge
The last of La Créole's topsail yards, the mizzen topsail yard, has now also been fitted with a jackstay and lashed in the middle.

 
The next step was to make and attach the footropes with a rope ø 22 mm (model scale ø 0.46 mm). Due to the relatively short spans, one stirrup for each half of the mizzen topsail yard seemed sufficient. 
The next step was to make the strops for the yard tackles, which will later be attached to the yardarms. 

The next picture shows detailed sections of the rigging elements already mentioned. A comparison with a stirrup for the main yard is also shown.

 
The following picture shows the finished blocks (each 3.5 mm long) for the braces and the leech lines. As with the other yards, the blocks were attached directly to the yard strops using ø 1.4 mm thimbles ("dog and bitch" connection). 

 
I continued with the strops for the lower blocks of the clew lines (l = 3.5 mm) and making the toggles to connect them to the sheets.


Last but not least, a picture of the current state of the mizzen topsail yard.

 
Finally, the clew lines, the reef tackles and the sheets are still missing for the final outfitting of the mizzen topsail yard.
 
See you soon ...
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-seven
Channels
 The channels each comprise laminations of three parts. The core centre part is rounded on the edges and extends slightly beyond the upper and lower pieces to create a decorative profile.

1748a
In practice the edges of the channels were open to receive the deadeye strops, and a cover strip was nailed over the top, decorative or otherwise.
Quite a straightforward business prepping the channels; largely making sure you have the correct cores and matching outer pieces, carefully applied to each side of the core, and aligned with the slots and holes.

1740a
The Main channels require more bevelling on the aft side to account for the greater tumblehome.

1739a
The Fore channels require bevelling and a little fettlin’ to match the round of the bow and take a little more time to fit.

3192
The Mizen and stools for the main and Mizen backstays require little attention and there are location holes in the hull for accurate fitting.

3194

3189
A well-designed set-up by Chris for what can otherwise be a tricky exercise.
 

1733a
Whilst in the area of the Poop I added a lead sheathing to the Gallery roof, this will tone down to a dull grey over time.

1731a

1744a

1745a
Before I permanently fix the channels I think I will return to the deck and inner bulwark fittings.
At this point the channels will just present another incumbrance to be careful about when working inboard.
 
 
B.E.
07/01/2024
 
 
 
 

Thank you Sirs!

Somehow it was time to do something to this little USS chick again. The infamous gunnade in the bow was still missing.





Even if it has already been questioned, I decided in favour of the variant with the GRIII crest.

Then I prepared the space on deck for it, fitted the lower deck knees and printed the nailed interior bulkward ...



... and glued it in.



Then checked the size of the blocks. The 2.5 mm were too long after all.



So it became the 2 mm blocks 🙂



I now also have a technique that works quite well. You sharpen a toothpick well ...



... and clamp it in a vice.



Then put a piece of paper over it to make it easier to see, and press the block onto the tip.



First check which side you need to start on so that the rolls are on the right side. Then apply 2 mm of superglue to the yarn and press it onto the correct side, ...



... pull the ends forwards, tie a knot and secure with glue. Then knot the hook, secure it, cut it to length and the double block is finished.



For the single block, first knot in a hook, apply some superglue to the hook´s knot ...



... and as with the other one ...



... with a little superglue at the back and tighten the ends to the front.

Then tie a knot, secure and cut to length.

Now comes the most difficult part in my eyes: the correct run through the blocks so that nothing crosses over 🙂

And that's it.



It also looks good on the 24-pounder 🙂



And then it was time for the trial fitting.















XXXDAn

the first quarter badge is finished:






 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-six
Side Steps
There are ten of these fiddly little items to assemble for each side.
The step equates to a depth of around 7” and length of 2’ 4” which seems about right.
 
One of the trickiest things with steps is attaching them to the hull with correct spacing and alignment.

1711a
To assist with this a copy is taken from the plan and attached to the hull adjacent to the actual line. This provides a guide for both position and level.

1712a
Pva is used to attach the steps.

1723a

1725a
The fenders and Chesstrees are fixed into position, they took me a fair amount of fettlin’ to get them to sit right against the hull.

1726a
I wonder if it might have been a better option to cut the moulding rather than notch the fenders.

1722a
Once fitted I drilled and ‘bolted’ the items to the hull. These were items subject to wear and tear and needed to be replaced fairly easily.
 
B.E.
04/01/2024
 
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-five
 
Looking at Chesstrees and Fenders.
The kit provides a basic shape for the fenders and Chesstrees but they both stand a degree of enhancement to achieve a more authentic look.
 
They are made of uniform 1.5mm laser cut pear which is about right for the bottom end at the wale but ideally should be slightly broader at the top, around 2.5mm.
Using dimensions from the Adm. plan I cut replacements out of some Boxwood scrap.
 

1687a
The sheaves were marked and drilled out on the little miller, and the shape cut out on the scroll saw.

1688a

1689a
At this stage the same pattern as the kit items but with a taper applied.

1699a
Together with a taper, a more elegant serpentine shape is better representative of how these things should look.

1694a

1695a
Testing for fit.
Altho’ I have used Boxwood to match my hull timbers, the kit parts could be laminated to allow for a taper, and a little more shaping to be applied.
 
The same approach was taken with the fenders.
 
Even on completion I thought that the depth of the fenders looked too much, almost out of scale for the hull.
I looked at many photos of fenders and chesstrees on models contemporary, and modern, and they all seemed finer than the
kit offering.

1707a
I didn’t have any exact dimensions to work from but I fined down the pieces until they satisfied my eye.

1704a

1705a
This is the result.
Getting there but I still think I can go a tad further.
 
The convex shape of the fenders initially looks odd given that on purpose built single deckers they are more concave in shape with a slight serpentine effect, due to the tumblehome.
On ‘Indy’ the tumblehome element of the waist has been cut away leaving just the lower hull round for the fenders to follow.
 
Before completing the fenders I will make the side-steps.
 
B.E.
02/01/2024
 
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-four
 
Back to the Bow
 … and several things to attend to.
 Areas of paintwork that I needed to tidy up particularly around the mouldings.
 This is a tiresome task with touch-ins on touch ins, ad nauseum.

1684a
The Decoration is added to the Trail boards
 
Fit of the Figure/ Bowsprit.
Left naturally the stive of the Bowsprit was insufficient to clear the top of the figure.
Whether this is specific to my build due to moving the Bowsprit stop aft to its proper position between the foc’sle bitts, I don’t know, but we are where we are.

1667a

1673b
I didn’t wish to change the figure so a little inventive jiggery pokery was required on the Bowsprit.

1654a
The heel of the Bowsprit is visible below the Foc’sle deck, and the aim is to fool the eye of the observer.

1673a
I intend to fit stump masts; for these I use Ramin my favourite dowel type. Light in colour, it provides an excellent match to Boxwood and other light wood types.
 

1685a
My only use for Walnut is for yards where the colouring is black. I’ve probably got several lifetimes worth of walnut dowel in my wood stock.

8778
Not that I have an interest in yards on this build, but the stump masts will be kitted out with those fittings applicable, as shown here on my Sphinx build.
 
B.E.
30/12/2023

 
 

some progress:

A few quiet minutes between the holidays can be usefully filled...😀
 
Equipment of the mizzen topsail yard – Vergue de perroquet de fouge
In the meantime I have started equipping the mizzen topsail yard of the La Créole. The first step was to make the necessary blocks and thimbles, as shown in the first picture.


The tye block has a length of 5 mm and is therefore the largest block at the mizzen topsail yard.


The next picture shows the size ratio of the tye block of the mizzen topsail yard to the tye block of the mizzen topsail yard. The difference is clear, as the mizzen topsail yard itself is significantly smaller and therefore lighter.


In the last picture the first rigging elements are already attached, such as the tye block with the stropped blocks for the bunt lines, the truss and the quarter blocks.


I cannot tell from the images available to me to what extent the mizzen topsail yard was equipped with a jackstay. I can't find any information about this in the monograph either. Nevertheless, I tend to equip the mizzen topsail yard with a jackstay.
Up soon …
 
Wish you all a happy new year!

Post One hundred and Twenty-three
 
Naming the ship.
The kit provides a water-slide decal for the name with a spare just in case you mess it up.

001
An issue for me is that the lettering colour, fine for the kit indicated scheme, is a little bright for my scheme.
I decided to create my own version on word incorporating a curve to match the counter.
I chose Baskerville old face at 36pts which equates with the kit provided version.

3155a

3155b
I created two types as above.

3153
The solid background version was tested for fit on the model.
The background match to the stern paint looks pretty good to my eye.
 
Previously I have used Letraset dry rub transfers, a method I like, but I can’t seem to find the correct size or font in this medium.
Maybe just as well, with a name of thirteen letters, accurate positioning could prove a trial.
 
I have decided to go old school and use the printed version applied over the counter.
I did this for Sphinx, after Chuck’s ‘Winnie’ build, and that turned out well.

3160
The print was sprayed with fixative before cutting out using a template from the plan.

3170
I used spray mount applied to the back of the cut-out to fix into place.
 

3163
I think I could have imparted slightly more curve to the first and last two letters but overall, I like the look.

3168
The important thing is that I have proven the system to myself, and I can re-visit at any time.
 
B.E.
28/12/2023
 
 
 

the quarter badge:

Post One hundred and Twenty-two
 
Re-visiting the Poop
The position of the skylight is still something of a puzzlement for me.

3141
The original position as indicated on the Adm plans is over the Coach, the standard position for skylights.

3143
With the shortened Poop deck Chris has re-positioned it over the Great cabin, on the basis that this would be a practical move.

3144
Aesthetically, with the reduced Poop, it looks much better than the usual position over the coach.
The Skylight has been raised by 2mm to compensate for the absence of planking.

3145
The new position does beg the question whether a skylight over the Great Cabin, with its access to extensive light thro’ the stern, is really necessary.
We do know that Pellew didn’t want the round house at all, but the reduced length was as far as the Navy Board would concede.
 
Pure speculation, but it seems to me that Pellew might well have dispensed with a Skylight altogether, on the basis that it wasn’t necessary and presented an additional weakness to the structure.

3146

3150
Even so, it is a nice little feature that adds interest to the Poop deck, along with the Mizen Bitts which still seem to be oddly positioned to my eye.
 
Still ‘Indy’ is a knocked about Sixty-four, so who knows.🤔
 
 
 
B.E.
26/12/2023


 

I had forgotten these two small ladders:




 

For now I have finished with the stern decorations:





 

Post One hundred and Twenty-one
Completing the stern decoration
This comprises Acanthus leaf designs and a plaque with the Royal cipher.
3109
Before I fitted the pilasters between the lights, I added the decoration for the cove.
I found it best to do this before fitting the pilasters.

3108
The Pilasters did need a light sanding across the tops to fit the available space.

3111
I decided to add a capping rail to the transom to hide the laminations of the stern.
On 'Indy' I used Boxwood, but thin styrene strips are also suitable.
 
Roof shingles
Chris has provided pre-cut card versions that do very nicely.

3113
The lower two strakes were fitted as strips, the upper one individual tiles trimmed to suit.
 
The remaining stern decoration followed.

3135

1634A

3133

1639A

3121

3116
This Polybak decoration works very well, but great care must be taken particularly with the long delicate string attached to the cipher.
Break this and there may be difficulties in matching the smooth flow of the design.
 
My last post before Christmas, so seasons’ greetings to all my fellow builders, and many thanks for those who have liked and shown interest in my builds over the year.
 
B.E.
 
23/12/2023.
 
 
 
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty
 
Lights and Frames
I always view this job with a degree of trepidation.
I started by using ‘Future’ (now Klear)
Applied with a brush to the glazing surface the frame was placed on top and allowed to set. Once dry a bead of Future was painted around the reverse edge.
 
I had mixed success with this.
 
The Qtr gallery lights were more stubborn and I resorted to applying tiny spots of odourless ca to the back of the frame, and carefully placing the glazing.

3095
I removed the protective covering from the front side, and partly peeled the aft side which I used to hold the glazing for positioning. This ideally needs to be done as a one-shot effort, to reduce the risk of ca spread.
 
I did have to replace the glazing on several lights due to marring, cut from the glazing fret.
 
Fitting the frame/glaze combo by comparison is easy, the merest pass along the edges with a file, and they do indeed ‘pop into place.’
 
I started with the Qtr lights, and once they’re fitted it makes a significant difference to the look. This is Chris’s best Qtr Gallery innovation to date, the seat of ease is clearly visible and with the Gallery door left open the light flows thro’ enhancing the realism.

3103

3105
Addition of the fluted pillars completes the effect.
 
For the stern I opted to have only two of the sashes open as  per Jim’s prototype build, I thought this gave the  most balanced and aesthetically pleasing effect.

3101
All the stern light glazing pieces were attached to the frames using ‘Future’ prior to fitting. The Upper sash frames were attached to the frames using odourless ca.

1620a
Onto the decoration.
 
B.E.
22/12/2023