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mtaylor

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  1. Might get some arguments here, but the "Chop It" tool from Micromark I find does not give a clean 90 degree cut. So, for cutting multiple identical cuts it was worthless. Gave it away.

     

    That one looks to be the same as the one Harbor Freight sells.  I bought the HF one.  The biggest issue I've found is that the angles on the vise aren't dead on.  I spent about 30 minutes setting it to 0 degrees to get an honest cut. 

     

    Just a note.. any power tool should be checked for squareness before using.  And then again during use.  I keep a protractor and some small drafting triangles handy.  I even check the blade on my scroll saw periodically during use to ensure a good 90 degrees from the table.  I failed to do that once and cut several frames out that had the cut not at 90 degrees. 

  2. I'm going to have to dig though things to find the cutters. They're buried around here somewhere. Take a look at page 18 of the PDF I referenced. It talks about grinding the cutter. I'm trying to remember who else modifies their tools and had or has pics.

     

    One of our scratchbuilders made a duplicator for his lathe and again... brain fart. I'm almost to the point of re-setting up the lathe for cannons.

  3. Gary,

     

    Sorry for not responding quicker.  Not been online much this past week.

     

    The cannon I've made were all from brass.  I use a 1/8" cutter that's narrowed by grinding to about 1/32" for all of the barrel except for the muzzle swell and the casabel.  For those I have cutters that have been ground to match those bits.  HSS is easily ground, just don't let it go to "red" when grinding.  A cup of water for quenching/cooling is good idea.

     

    The Little Machine Shop has a good tutorial on Lathes and also the grinding of tooling:   http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf  Peruse the rest of that site as it's very informative.

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