Bill Hime

Augie,
Just stopped back in to take a peek. Everything from the cabin walls, deck furniture, bricks and the cabin floor is just beautiful. You my friend, seem to be refining your technique with every step
 
Bill

Hey Bill,
 
Haven't seen an update in a while. Hope everything is okay with you and that we'll see you in the shipyard again soon.

Thanks for posting a great log!
 
I have been out of the hobby for a long time but getting back into it and once again and working on my POB II. I have been catching up on the forums and will be following your build with great interest. I wish I had your wood working skill. I had no prior experience with wood working but the pride is my third build and I chose it specifically as a skill builder and stepping stone to greater things. Something tells me I am going to learn a lot following your log as well.
 
Cheers!

Hi Bill, glad to see there is someone else out there building the Pride 2.  I am installing spars and standing rigging on my model.  One general change I made to the model is that when it was time to build the deck pieces that appear bright finished, like the pin rails and windlass support, I used pearwood.  When coated with polyurethane, it nicely mimics a bright finish, and of course the grain is very tight.
 
Good luck and will try to keep an eye on how it is going!
 
JD

Bill.  I have been at my POB build for a year.  Finishing up the standing rigging.  I am also using Bob Hunts practium.  I am also a newbie and this was my first really kit to build.  It has and is a learning experience no matter what material you are using.  The practium and forums such as this one really help.  I use this one along with Lauuks Forum.  I do not have a build log as I am not very computer savy to take photos etc.  My shop is an ongoing project adding tools and supplies as I go along.  I am also building Old Naval Cannons as a sideline tto break up the tedioous work with the Pride  My Pride is good but not like the one's posted by others.  It amazes me how they can make it sound and looks so easy and so good but it comes with just keeep working at it until it makes sense.  The satisfaction one gets when working with wood and seeing  it come together is such a great feeling and satisfaction to one's spirit.  I gave up this hobby about 40 years ago and it is the best thing I do now that I am retired.  I am going to have my kids show me how to post pictures so I can start a build log.  Any tips as to jigs-tools-supplies you have found in your work as a cabinet maker and now a ship builder is welcome.  One of the best tools I have bought is a Dermel Moto Saw along with the Dermel Hand Drill.  The three handed alligator clip stand is priceless.  After thekeel and bulwarks are installed I use a swivel vise to hold the model while I plank it and install the decking and fixtures.
Comes in handy also while rigging as you can move yor model around easy to get at things.
Paget

Just a quick update.  The inner bulwarks have been painted except in the Great Cabin where they were stained. 
 
I used 10 coats of diluted MS Bulwark Red somewhat modified to attain the red I was looking for (same as the gun ports).  A coat of flat acrylic lacquer was applied as well:
 

 

 

 

 
We'll now be turning our attention to the deck......but not before some (long delayed) domestic chores and a sortie to the hallowed fishing grounds are completed.  I shall return with ....... ???????
 
 

Thanks all.  I love the color of swiss pear so that's what the decks shall be.  I think it will offer a nice contrast with the exposed beams. 
 
Thanks for the heads-up on the grates, Ben.  In spite of your kindness, we will not be discussing the floor at this point.  I can, however, guarantee that ebony is not in the running.

Have been busy making hatches, coamings and gratings for the gun deck.  These are all permanently fixed to the false deck and will be planked around.  I used simple lap joints for the corners.  The gratings were supplied laser cut.  The hatch with the pull rings used eyebolts and separate rings made from fine black annealed wire.
 

 
The corners were slightly rounded above planking level.  All are basswood and were stained with diluted Golden Oak.  The bottoms were sanded lightly to match the curvature of the false deck.
 

 
The treenailed platform behind the aftmost grating is for the capstan.
 

 
Just behind the foremast hole you'll see the coaming for the stove's platform.  This has not been set permanently on the deck as we now need to create a 'bricked platform' .  We'll take a closer look at this later on (after I figure out how to do it) .
 
Hope everyone is well and prepared to have some grog to celebrate the coming solstice
 
 
 
 

The brick platform for the stove has been completed.
 
I decided to create a base for the (individual) bricks inside the coaming.  The base is 1/32" balsa sheet, painted grey:
 

 

 
3/32 x 1/32" planks were then painted two colors and cut into 'bricks' as seen below:
 

 
The ends of the faux bricks were touched up and then laid individually:
 

 
It's not perfect,  but I'm pleased.  About 60% of the platform will be covered by the stove itself.
 
Next on the agenda is the checkerboard floor for the Great Cabin....as per Ben's 'suggestion'.  Though this may require Divine Intervention, I'll give it a shot.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks all for the comments.  But Frank ...... I'm Italian.  My birthstone is concrete.

After considering several methods of creating the Great Cabin floor, I decided to use Chuck's method.  In my experience, doing so is never a bad idea!
 
The floor will be made from walnut and boxwood 3/16 x 1/32" strips.  A paper template of the area to be covered was made and a piece of 6 x 6 x 1/32" plywood was used as the base.  First, the strips were cut to approximate length and glued to the plywood base:
 

 

 
The curvature you see is created by the camera.  Next, a jig was made in order to create 3/16" strips to be cut with an Exacto blade:
 

 
The individual strips were then cut:
 

 
The strips were offset and then edge glued together to create the pattern:
 

 
The paper pattern was then used to cut and sand the floor for a tight fit.  Here's what we got:
 

 
Finally, just some overall shots.  The floor was finished with natural stain, WOP for protection and Dullcoat to give a flat finish:
 

 

 
Although most of the floor will be covered by the (open) upper decking and deck beams, I think we have a nice overall detail.  I'm pleased 
 
Will be closing the shop for the upcoming Holiday festivities (Happy Independence Day to all of my fellow Americans).  When we return, the strains of DECK PLANKING music will be heard in the Rockies.
 
Oh, we have just passed 600 hours into the build.

You're right, Richard ---- it will be darker than the hull planking but I just love the look of it.  It will also contrast with the open deck beams.  I thought long and hard about it and decided to take the shot. 

Everyone: Its been a few months since I have posted some progress shots but with the firewood piled and the temps outside around -30c I have been making amazing progress on my Agamemnon.  I have managed to finish most of the work on the spar deck (still need to add some stairs) but before I add the rear poop deck I thought I would take a few quick pics. The work was a bit slow as I fully rigged the guns as well as treenailed the hull. I am glad to see this work finally done. I will get the stairs in that run from the spar deck to the lower gun deck but I really would like to get the work done on the rear poop deck so expect some planking pics soon!
 
Sorry for taking so long but life seem to keep me out of trouble these days...
 
Mike Draper
Whitehorse, Yukon
Canada

Augie, she is simply beautiful!

I agree on Walnut being brittle. Especially if cutting for planks, etc..I guess the question is, "what other dark woods are there?". Any wood can be stained dark. If you're thinking of celebrating a woods characteristics rather than covering it up, then look to African woods.
 
Wenge, is a dark dense wood with interesting contrast in it's grain.
 
Bublinga, has variuos tones of reds to almost black. Works well. it's used for instruments and fine woodworking from the smallest details to the largest projects. (this is one of my favorites)
There are others, but these are the two that stick out to me. In fact, i'm going to incorporate Bublinga into my current build
 
Of course there's Ebony, but for many reasons, you're better off ebonizing Boxwood in my opinion.
 
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill

With the 300 hour mark just passed, thought I'd update with her new look:
 

 

 
Work on the upper hull is completed (for the moment) with the painting up to the rails.  Same process as the wales.
 
Now, there are some moldings that will be attached later on.  Toward that end, some scrapers are provided with the kit to put a bead in the 1/16" square basswood moldings:
 

 
I was a little pessimistic about this process at first.  But here's a sample of four strips treated with the scrapers then stained:
 

 
Looks like these will actually work !!  I'll hold off installing them for now so as not to damage them during the next step.....
 
............. planking the lower hull.
 
Need to do a little reading and planning before I begin.  This is NOT my strong suit  --- but then little falls into that category.  For this hull, Chuck has included a 'spiling jig' to do some edge bending so I need to work with that for a bit.  So it'll be a while.........
 
But I shall be watching everyone's progress
 
So STAY THE COURSE !
 
 
 
 

Time for a small update.
 
The treenailing of the upper hull is completed.  I used the 'drill and fill' method using a #74 bit and wood filler that I dyed with acrylic paint to the color I liked.  It's not as aggressive a pattern as specified on the plans but it suits me.  Once that was done, another coat of diluted Minwax Golden Oak stain was applied and everything given 2 coats of WOP followed by an application of brush on Testor's Flat Acrylic.
 

 

 
Now it's time to finish the painting on the upper hull.  Everything from approx. 2 strakes above the gun ports up to the rail will be black.  Wish I had a scale roller  .  Probably take about 8 coats.
 
Be back soon.
 
 

Hey Augie,
Those wale lines have a real nice flow to them. That's a long hull, those lines either make or break the beauty of this ship . Wonderful work, I'm taking notes :)
 
 
Bill

Hi Robert,
Thanks for looking in. Watchful eyes always keep me on my toes
 
Lou,
Hey my friend, thanks for shaking the bushes. We're alive and well
 
Augie,
Yes, waiting is the right thing to do. I think I was just thinking out loud on in that post. With the shipyard in the living room, it's never too far out of my site.
 
Alistair,
Lol, now that's the way to call a man out! Thank you my friend   "Passion is Patience" ...and that is the truth of my heart
 
 
This is my long weekend on in ICU. I'm off Monday and Tuesday. First thing up, to dial that scroll saw in and get those Wenge wood patterns cut. I feel like I just woke up. Thanks everyone for getting my blood running again.
 
 
Bill

Michael,
What a great tutorial! And your so right, there is nothing like making your own tools. It takes a true artisan to know his craft well enough to create tools to fit his needs. And that is a very fine looking chisel indeed.
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill

Firstoff, a HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone on MSW.  May health, wealth and good building be in store for all!
 
Thought I'd start the year with a small update.
 
The planking of the upper hull has been completed with the addition of the second layers for the main and channel wales.  In addition, the main wales have been painted........8 coats of diluted MS acrylic black.  It's got the slightest bit of sheen to it but I'll address that later:
 

 

 

 
Here's a close up.  The strake just above the black main wale is the 'black strake' which, for some reason, is not black.  It is thinner than the wale so it makes for a nice detail.  The wales and black strake have been tapered and contoured into one another so the edge is nice and neat.  Thanks to Bob (Rafine) for mentioning the fact that he paints the edges of the wales before putting them on.  That really simplifies the painting:
 

 
The next step will be treenailing the outer hull.  I'll be using the 'drill and fill' technique.  I need to get the right color on the filler and determine the pattern before proceeding.  Once that's done a second coat of stain will be applied to darken the upper hull....then more painting etc.  FUN STUFF 
 
OK, let's see your latest  !!!!!
 
 
 
 

Hi Robert,
Thanks for looking in. Watchful eyes always keep me on my toes
 
Lou,
Hey my friend, thanks for shaking the bushes. We're alive and well
 
Augie,
Yes, waiting is the right thing to do. I think I was just thinking out loud on in that post. With the shipyard in the living room, it's never too far out of my site.
 
Alistair,
Lol, now that's the way to call a man out! Thank you my friend   "Passion is Patience" ...and that is the truth of my heart
 
 
This is my long weekend on in ICU. I'm off Monday and Tuesday. First thing up, to dial that scroll saw in and get those Wenge wood patterns cut. I feel like I just woke up. Thanks everyone for getting my blood running again.
 
 
Bill

Vic thanks, the chisel in in use here
Janos, Yes I think that it is called silver steel in the UK as well.
Mark, that is a great idea.
 
There really is something special about making your own tools.
 
Michael

Hi Slog
 
All I did was to heat the end about 1 inch at the tip to cherry red then quenched it in cold water. it was not quite hard tested it with a file, so heated it again to a very cherry red and again quenched it in the same water and then it was hard. I thought about tempering it but decided not to. if it is too brittle I will temper it that means heating it up again but watching very carefully the colour of the oxide forming on the polished surface I would take it to a dark straw colour then quench it again.
 
I did use Drill Rod which comes in just about every size up to 1 inch in 36 inch lengths. it has a ground finish and is great for making tools.
 
To soften the steel heat it to cherry red and let it cool slowly.
 
To case harden mild steel heat to hot as possible without melting it and plunge it into some carbon powder, reheat and repeat a few times and you have a hard coating on the mild steel.
 
 
Michael

Today I needed a long small chisel
 
To make what I needed I began with a piece of 5/32 drill rod and filed the end into a rectangular section.
 

 
this was then polished up with some wet and dry sandpaper stuck to a strip of wood.
 

 
After hardening the end only the bevel was ground ready for shapening.
 

 

 
Finally a handle was fashioned from a piece of hard maple.
 

 
Michael