RMC

I have messaged Jason about the free end of the shrouds. I am getting mixed messages from different sources regarding the direction to the free end, though this may simply be a result of my confusion.
 
Below are some photos of p2 of Petersson and a snap of plan 8.  Petersson seems to show the free end of the shrouds towards the stem on both sides.  The plan shows the free end towards aft on the starboard side, while Jason suggests this is so on the port side.
 
Aaagh. I just noticed I cut off the top of the first and third pictures.
 
The inboard view (port) shows the free end of the shroud towards the stem (ie, the right side), and the outboard view (port) again towards the stem (ie, the left side).
 

 
This shows the starboard side with the free end towards the stem.
 

 

 
This is the plan.
 

 
At my age I'm confused enough.
 
 
 
 

The channels and chain plates on the right side are now almost complete.  The fore and mid channels are finished, while the stern-most will have the chain plates applied in the next day or so.
 
The lower gun port lids have been dry-fitted.
 

 

 

 
Here are  some views of the fore channel.  There is still a bit of touching up to do .

 

 

 
Here is the mid channel.

 

 

 

 
The result so far has been acceptable enough and has not been as formidable a job as I anticipated. - though there have been a couple of thrills along the way.  Perhaps I shouldn't get too far ahead of myself as the stern chain plates are still to be completed.
 
 

The lanyards are now on the potentially troublesome gun port lids and those lids are now installed.  I came across a god way of 'splicing the lanyards to the lids (I think Gil Middleton's log). Take a very fine needle and thread the line through the eyelets.  Once through thread the line through itself once, then again through the other side of the line. Then pull the needle and thread tight and the lanyards attached to the eyelet on the lid. The line is very fine indeed.  Good short vision helps, so this may not be for everybody.
 


 
Now that the lids are complete I have installed the channel brackets on the forward channel and dry fitted the channel to the model.  The brackets come perilously close to the molding, though I think they will just - only just - fit.  If the molding was 1/2mm higher it would make things a lot more comfortable.  I do have a cunning fallback plan if, when the channel is properly installed, the brackets are too close the the molding but at this stage I'll assume things will turn out well.
 
Here are the forward gun port with lanyards.

 
With the channel dry-fitted.


 

 

I have begun putting the hinges on the gun port lids. I have made a jig similar to  Arthur's to enable their consistent positioning. As well, I added a piece of strip (seen nailed below) to assist spacing of the scuttles. When they are placed in a pair of tweezers, the tweezers held against the strip provides consistent spacing for the scuttle from the top of the lid. (I hope this all makes sense.)
 

 

 
In attaching the hinges, I fitted an eyelet through the hole in the hinge (see photo above). Applied gel CA to the hinge; placed the eyelet into the hole I had drilled in the lid, then slid the hinge down onto the lid. To my pleasant surprise, it resulted in perfect positioning of the hinge, without spreading glue everywhere.
 

 
 
Here are some  of the finished articles.
 

 
 
 

 
Since taking these photos I have done some minor touching up.
 
Over a miserable, rainy and windy weekend some progress was made on the carronades. They have proved to be a little more demanding than I expected. The quality is very good, but with one disappointment. There is no eye on the barrel through which to put the breaching rope. I have glued small eyes onto the barrels in the same way as I did for the cannons.  Once the rope is passed through them, I hope it will disguise any shortcomings and the result will be acceptable.
 
 

The hammock nettings and the other bits and pieces are now finished. Here is how it all turned out.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have dry-fitted the ship's boats, and it is a very tight fit indeed. At this stage I am not sure just how to attach them permanently.

 

 
As you can see there is very little space.  The largest boat is a little higher than the other two which just gives enough room for the two smaller boats to fit under its sides.
 

 

 

 
 
Aside from putting together the carronades - I'll do that next weekend - I'm not sure what the next step will be.
 
 

The quarter deck is finally finished. Here is a solution to what turned out to be a problem in cutting the netting material so that the holes are all in line. My first attempts at needle and thread here suggests that sewing is a much overrated hobby.  The netting was simply trimmed above the thread.
 

 
Here are the quarter deck hammock nettings complete.

 

 

 

 
The two hammock nettings still to do on the sides promise to be far more difficult.

I have received most of the replacement rope from Syren. Some of the sizes were in short supply and I will order the balance when they are available.
 
The quality looks to be excellent and it was delivered promptly. Below are some photos of some of the different sizes - light and dark brown, rather than the black and light tan of the kit.
 
When I first bought the kit about 3 years ago, for some obscure reason I hung some of the black thread over the top of a door and then forgot about it. It was in a light room, but not in direct sunlight.  It has not aged well. It is now an uneven dark tan and extremely furry.  Perhaps beeswax would solve the problem.
 
Here are the different sizes of the brown. Unfortunately the packaging tends to obscure the thread inside.

 
I hope this gives a better idea of the quality. It was taken in sunlight.

 
Here is the light tan.

 

I have finally glued the fittings to the foredeck. The cannonballs have yet to be put in to their shot garlands, but that's about it.
 

 

 

 
The middle rail has now been attached as well as the supports for the stanchions. I've assumed these to be 1x2mm strip. I can't see a measurement in the plans, so I've assumed it is the same thickness as the side railings. The quarter deck capping rails have also been glued.  Finishing the curved part at the end of the capping was a bit of a problem. I eventually used some 5 x 0.5mm scrap, put it in a mug with some water and microwaved it for a couple of minutes.  I then wrapped the softened strip around some old PVC pipe of about the right diameter and left it overnight. It turned out quite well. I also tidyed (sp?) up the vertical part under the front of the capping with the 5 x 0.5mm strip.
 

 

 

 
The wheel etc. are only dry fitted.-  just to see what they look like.
 

 

The forward and middle rails are now glued.  Before doing so I have finally glued on the cat heads - something I have been delaying as long as possible. Sticking out as they do, is a sure invitation to disaster, to which I am quite prone.
 

 
I found it is best to make the cuts in the forward railings (to provide for the guns) before they are glued to the model. Doing so makes them a bit more pliable, so that if you need to put a little more bend in the rail to fit, there is no great problem.
 
Since the following photos were taken, some minor touching up has been done.
 

 

 
.
 

 
The bowsprrit is dry-fitted here - just to see what it will look like.
 

 

 

 
 

I have been working on the forward railings and the gunports on the upper deck. I have just realised that the rear end of the side railings require an angled piece of timber to join the upper and lower parts of the rails. As well there seems to be a curved bit of timber required that butts onto the end of the lower part of the railing that covers the curved decorative molding. I can't see a part like this listed, so I guess it needs to be fabricated.
 
The forward railng is dry-fitted here and I'm not looking forward to gluing it over the curved timber to which it must be attached. It will be under a fair amount of stress.  The side railings must then be fitted to the front railing and in doing this, the corners with the protruding decoration will be an intereresting exercise .
 

 

 
 
The lower sills of the gunports required filling - I used Intergrain water-based woodfiller. (The Intergrain is far superior to others I have used.) The openings then need to be painted. As all the rest of the hull is already painted, each opening needs to be carefully masked.  For this  I used Humbrol Maskol again. It's effective but a bit fiddly to work with. So far I have only completed one side. Once both sides are painted, a couple of coats of polyurethane should finish the job.
 
The next two photos show the gap between the exterior of the hull and the inside wall. Here, for the filling, the exterior was masked by Tamiya tape.
 

 

 
The gaps filled.
 

 
The gunport openings painted awaiting two coats of poly.



 

The rudder is finished and painted. I'm not all that happy with it.  Even after spraying wiith the PS 55 it still looks too bright and obtrusive.  At least in the process I was able to repair the slight damage to the clear coat over the copper bottom. I guess all the decoration near the rudder will tend to draw the eye away from it - at least that's what I'm hoping. As I was typing this I realised  that I have some copper strip that would have been ideal.
 



 
In the meantime I have started the decoration of the side galleries.  Here there are a few mildly annoying problems.
 
1.The layout of my brass assembly differs from the plans.  As a consequence I went close to carelessly putting one of the pillars in the wrong spot. Moral: dry fit them all before gluing.
2.According to the specifications there should be 4 of Part 377. There are 3.  It doesn't matter as the length each each one is more than sufficient for the purpose with quite a lot left over (you have to cut them off) - unless there is another application that I have overlooked. 
3.There is not enough room to fit decoration 434.  If 436 is to be applied in front of the forward pillar, if it is painted yellow (as I have) it will more or less disappear from sight.  I'll think about painting it black or leaving it off altogether.
 
Here are a couple of progress photos.

 

I have now painted the area below the facia, though does not yet have a coat of polyyurethane.
 
The decorative wooden strips have been painted and attached.  These were pre-bent using my little bending machine (I don't know what else to call it) a photo of which appears earlier in this log.  The 2x1mm strip was quite splintery, and it is a good idea to coat the strip with a little thin CA first to prevent breakage.
 

Here is the facia dry-fitted

 
The following give some idea of what the facia and the decorative molding look like. I am very tempted to attach the molding to the facia as well as some of the cast decorations before putting the facia on the model.  It would make things far easier.  A potential problem is that the facia will have a slight curve when attached.  Gluing all the bits and pieces onto it without any 'give' in the glue may result in trouble.
 
Comments/suggestions welcome.
 



 
The two bits of ply poking over the top of the facia will have to be filed down flush.This, and the need to lower the facia so that the windows are obscured (others have had the same problem) suggest  the plans need revision.

I have finally finished the coppering to the waterline on one side. The other is within a couple of rows of being finished.  At the moment I am sick of the sight of copper plates. It has so far turned out acceptably. I have certainly learned a few things in the process.
 
Applying the plates in complete strips to the waterline worked well - enabling accurate matching of the coppering on both sides.  Once the waterline was reached, fewer and fewer could be applied at once, but the accurate placing of the strips to the waterline made it easy to accurately place the remaining plates.  In effect, they fell into place as earlier I hoped they would.
 
I used "repositionable" CA. In general it worked well.  However I would better describe it as "unpredictably repositionable". If I positioned a plate poorly, it was certain to stick instantly.  On odd occasions when pressure was applied at an angle (to close up a gap) the plate leapt off the boat landing on the floor with the inevitable result that those who have dropped buttered toast know all too well.  With experience I did get better at it - but then you would want to.
 
Here are some pictures of progress.  The plates have been roughly cleaned with lemon juice alone.
 
I found that when a plate needed to be shaped to fit the waterline,particularly when the required part of the plate was very small,  it was best to shape that last plate so that it fitted snuggly between the waterline and the lower plate but not worrying about its length.  I would test-fit the penultimate plate so that it would overlap the last plate, so providing the required length of the last plate.  I then cut off the last plate to the required length, glued it and then applied the penultimate plate.  On the odd occasions this was required cutting off the end of the plate was not noticeable (I hope).
 
 








 
Here are shots of the the coppering (finally ) to the waterline.  Aside from completing the other side, I still have to take to copper to the bottom of the keel (about 2mm). I haven't yet decided how to do it. Starting where I did - just hitting the garboard strake - seemed like a good idea at the time.










 

I have been painting the yellow 'stripes' for what seems like weeks.  The Humrol paints need 4 to 5 coats, sanding between coats, to give a good finish.  Each coat needs at least 24 hours to dry properly for sanding (800 - 1200 grit). I have used Humbrol maskol for the first time.  Once you get the knack (put it on quite thickly), it's very effective, though I missed some bits, so there are a few minor paint marks on the gunports. The stuff must be taken off after 3 days  - I cheated and left it on for 4 without ill effect - but given the number of coats required and the time needed, the time limit is a bit of  pain.  The following pictures I hope will give you some idea of how the stuff looks when you take it off. The painting has not yet been touched up.
 




 
I have now finished the roudhouses, painted (there's still some masking tape shown in the picture) and attached the decoration.


 
I made a mess of the gundeck stairs - put them at too steep an angle and I have one 'half' of the stairs bigger than the other. For some inexplicable reason I left them as they were when I glued them to the hatch.  Moreover I didn't make provision on the lower deck for the stanchions (I know I am not alone in that). But I did come up with a solution to all but the problem of the badly divided stairs  As you will see I tacked on two pieces of previously drilled wood to the bottom of the stairs. Fitted all the stanchions  and the rope - and so the whole assembly is complete and ready to fit whenever it is least likely to be damaged.  The picture showing it on the ship shows it dry-fitted.
 





 
Finally, for those who may be interested, here are the ship's boats that I completed some time ago.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I have just lost  a post in the ether. I accidentally hit the right mouse button and that was that.
 
So here I go again.  I have completed putting on the waterline battens.  I used lime wood as it is flexible and, as it is light coloured, shows up any mistakes. With a few adjustments here or there it has come out quite well. As some of the curves are quite tight it was easiest to put the battens up in pieces making the joins wedge-shaped to make them unobtrusive.  The battens will be painted black later so that any minor blemishes should (I hope) disappear.
 
I have put four coats of yellow over the upper gundeck ports, sanding between each coat. It took a week as the Humbrol takes about 36 hours to dry sufficiently to sand.
 





 


 
 

I have finally completed and fitted the screen bulkhead assembly. The 'glass' turned out well.  The two pillars closest to the sides need to be trimmed a little (about 1/2mm ech ) to fit which was a bit awkward.
 
Incidentally I have found Super Glue Gel (CA) is ideal for positioning pieces of decoration. It doesn't run, and a few small drops applied by a pin gives you time to position the piece. In Australia you can get it at Bunnings (Selleys Quick Fix in a small green tube) or ZAP Gel at hobby shops.  For most other things I now use slow setting (it's still fairly quick) CA (either ZAP or Delta with the yellow labels).
 
I have now decided to paint the hull before coppering the bottom.  I will follow Arthur's method in layng the plates with the vertical nail impressions towards the stern and the horizontal impression towards the bottom.
 

 

I have finally got around to finishing the second layer of planking, the wales and the decorative strips.The next few pictures show the steps and the decorative strips. I am not all that happy with the steps.  Looking at the plan (too late) I realised the steps are superimposed on the decorative strips.  With hindsight I should have cut the strips leaving space for the steps.Here are the quarter galleries.  They need a couple more coats of matt paint.I have decided to try Kristal Klear for the windows.  The windows pictured show some in the process of drying (showing white).  Once dry, they become completely clear. It takes a bit of time to get the knack, but the results seem to be really good (so far).

It's certainly a shame that all of the data has been lost.  It was a wonderful resource.  I still have some of the photos of my progress on the Vanguard and I will try to put these up now. I have just competed the wales and the first of the decorative strips (above the top wale) and I will post these when I get a chance.
 
I have just looked at this post and the photos have apparently gone up in reverse order. As well I was only able to load 9 files to the post, rather than the 10 that was advised elsewhere. The new format will take some getting used to. I hope my next attempt will be a bit less chaotic.
 
I have tried to add some more photos with comments and have tried to preview the added post. I'm afraid it looks like a dogs breakfast.  I'm going to submit it and see what turns up. It is VERY frustrating.
 
 
This photo and the two below show my solution to the placement of the last timber strip to the main wale.
 
Here is the stern view of the completed main wale.
 
Starting the top wale.  I first soak the first strip for a couple of hours, then clamp it in the correct position, leaving it overnight. This gives the correct curvature,  I then glue it to the model complete and then cut the holes for the gunports. The remaining strip can then fitted easily below the first. 

I have finished the Vanguard version of the kit.  It's superb.  I agree with Peter's thoughts on the shipship's guns.   They are quite disappointing, though with a bit of fiddling they can be made presentable.  Have a look at Syren's gun kits.   They may be the answer, thought the scale may be a problem.
 
All the best
 
Bob (rmc)

Alan: I have found a shop in Sydney that sells Mr Hobby paints.  They did not have the colour I wanted of course, but progress, nevertheless.
 
A combination of the Tamiya paint and the capping rails has proven difficult.  I think the paint problem is finally solved, but the rails etc continue to be a problem.  The highly curved part around the bow is VERY reluctant to remain bent to shape.  It's self-inflicted unfortunately - the molding that I have used is happy enough to bend - but only so far.  I had glued it, then left it clamped for 24 hours, but after an hour or two it came adrift near the stem.  I have re-glued it and will now leave it clamped.  I will be spending two or three weeks down the coast south of Sydney from next Sunday, so I hope that be the time I return, the molding will have behaved.
 
This is how things look at the moment.  The first photo gives an idea of how the capping around the fore deck will look.  The connecting molding between the fore and main capping needs a little touching up and will need its length to be adjusted, but it has turned out well.
 

The main capping needs another coat of paint and a coat of polyurethane, but I'm pleased with the result so far.

 
 

 Below are the curved moldings clamped round the bow.  Provided they behave after nearly three weeks worth of clamping, the whole thing should turn out well.  Of course the captain of the Titanic probably said something similar on leaving Southampton.
 
Oh, and Happy Christmas etc to all those who have been kind enough to comment, 'like', 'react' ........ since I began all of this.
 

 
 
 
 

Finally.  Some progress.  The futtock shrouds are finished and the catharpins are done.  It's taken ages, though other things have interrupted over the last few weeks.  I found the whole process quite difficult and time consuming.  The thread is quite stiff and difficult to manage - wetting it helped.  I am not looking forward to the equivalent process for the topgallant shrouds.

Finally.  Some progress.  The futtock shrouds are finished and the catharpins are done.  It's taken ages, though other things have interrupted over the last few weeks.  I found the whole process quite difficult and time consuming.  The thread is quite stiff and difficult to manage - wetting it helped.  I am not looking forward to the equivalent process for the topgallant shrouds.

Finally.  Some progress.  The futtock shrouds are finished and the catharpins are done.  It's taken ages, though other things have interrupted over the last few weeks.  I found the whole process quite difficult and time consuming.  The thread is quite stiff and difficult to manage - wetting it helped.  I am not looking forward to the equivalent process for the topgallant shrouds.

Finally.  Some progress.  The futtock shrouds are finished and the catharpins are done.  It's taken ages, though other things have interrupted over the last few weeks.  I found the whole process quite difficult and time consuming.  The thread is quite stiff and difficult to manage - wetting it helped.  I am not looking forward to the equivalent process for the topgallant shrouds.

Long time ...  The knot tying is almost over and the yards are (almost) fully rigged.  To do something a little different, I finally fitted the bowsprit and its gammoning. (sp?).  This required the use of 0.5mm black thread - F24 in the  instructions.  In the photo F24 is on the right and is the thickest of the three - about 1+mm.  The thinnest is F26 which is supposed to be 1mm, but is less than that.  It's something to look out for.  Fortunately I had some suitable leftover thread and the gammoning turned out acceptablly.
 

 

I see I haven't yet trimmed the excess thread.