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  • Birthday 05/03/1945

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    Truro England

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  1. Thanks for the likes and thanks Edward for the comments. Planking is Tanganyka with two coats of Windsor and Newton Artists Satin Varnish. Artists, not Artisans grade. This dries with a silky look but is quite a rough finish actually. A finishing rub down with a sponge pot scourer gives a good finish but this time I have found wire wool too aggressive. Different planking materials affect the finish obtained so practicing on scrap before applying to the model is essential. Regards, Sam.
  2. Looking good. Reading the tips on sail material with interest. Always have trouble with this part of the build so any help is appreciated. Sam.
  3. Thanks for visiting. Quarter gallery floors parts 93, 94 and 95 fitted. Precut parts provided not even close but at least the plywood didn't split. Will fit the windows and blend into the stern piece before deciding on the upper floor treatment. Regards, Sam. Sam
  4. Thanks for visiting and the likes. Hull planking finished. Figures dotted about for scale only. These will be removed later. Next will be finishing the stern, adding channels and gunport lids. Without full size plans this part will be fiddly. Posts by Mark Tiedens and Sferoida are invaluable. Thanks. Future posts should be more frequent. Regards, Sam.
  5. Thanks for the likes. Hull planked down to wale and bowsprit deck capping rail added. Next is the wales and finish the hull planking. Then I can finish trimming the gunports. Regards, Sam
  6. Hi, and thanks for the likes. Upper cabin side windows fixed and rails added. Wasn't happy just sticking them on so framed them. Probably noticed by now that I am doing anything but finishing the hull planking (I would rather tie ratlines) but the bullet is about to be bit. Regards, Sam
  7. Capping rails fixed. Occre supplied several lengths of 2 x 12 mm sapele for these. Probably the only pieces in this kit that were straight and true when they needed to be slightly curved on plan. In the end I replaced the waist rails with 2mm thick flat sheet I had in stock so lots of the sapele left. Won't waste it, quality material. Looked at the photo's and instruction book twice. Stared at the wall for inspiration and then went on Mark Tiedens log to se how he did it. Gave it a try and it actually worked. This build is travelling further and further from the real thing. Not authentic but as close as I can get. Looking ahead the next problems will probably be the pinrails and belaying pins. Time to finish the hull planking. Regards, Sam.
  8. Hi and thanks for the likes. Upper hull planking applied and stem bulkhead stanchions fitted. Next step is the various rails or as the instructions call them - the covering strips. Kit supplied material for these is 2 x 12mm sapele. This is good quality but the waist rails need to be curved slightly on plan. Will use in stock 2mm thick sheet for these, cut and shaped to suit. Finished rails will be painted black so I hope that the different material used will not show. Starting at the stern with these to see what sort of mess I make of the large radius curves before starting on the other changes in level. If the large ones turn out OK I will curve the others. If not, they will be "squared up" instead of radiused. Let's see what happens. Regards, Sam.
  9. Upper poop deck fitted. Stem bulkhead planked and doors fitted, lead foil as roofing to roundhouses. Catheads for photo only. Will be attached later. Regards, Sam.
  10. Hi and, thanks for the likes. Also thanks Mark for the comments. I keep comparing the parts, the instructions and, your build log. Agree with your comments about the mis-match with the windows and deck camber and still haven't decided what to do here but it will entail a lot of scratch building. Also my stern piece finishes a lot lower than yours so I have had to lower the replacement bulwark pieces slightly to make sure that the rails finish inside the stern piece. The rearmost deck part No. 122 will be a much smaller step. This will end up a good model but, I'm not sure what it will be a model of. Thanks for your input. Regards, Sam.
  11. Hi and, thanks for the likes. After a careful examination of Mark Tiedens build log I have been trying to sort out the stern. The parts provided in my kit don't match the instruction book and the plans (lol) are no help at all. In addition the stern side cheeks mark 29 are approx 4mm too long and protrude below the stern piece. They lock into place so can't really be fixed incorrectly. I have corrected these. I have decided on the following approach --- The stern piece is attached and is not moving. The second planking will be extended to meet the stern piece at the higher verandah and a door for access into the high level cabins provided in the sides. I may have to scratch build the side windows. Will visit this after second planking is fixed. Next - the top moulding piece mark 70 goes down both sides of the hull and across the bowsprit deck above the two access doors. Instructions say "use a small triangular file to form a groove down the centre of 2 x 5mm sapele strips. Then sand to form the B shaped moulding. Not happening. Will fabricate using 2x5 strip with 1x1 strips both sides. Artisania Latina make a set of micro planes which would be ideal for profiling mouldings but don't offer them for sale in Great Britain. Last problem -- The top moulding across the bowsprit deck clashes with the two door openings in the bulkhead. After a close examination of the instructions it appears that the doorways have been cut 5 to 6mm too high. This one is easy to correct. Obviously the photo's were taken during building of the prototype and the laser cut sheets produced afterwards. This has been a challenging build from day 1 and I have to say I am enjoying every minute of it. It is not just a case of - nail part A to part 58 and stick it in a display case. Neither is it a kit for the absolute beginner. It is building into a sturdy good looking model. Will admit I am spending as much time staring at it and thinking about the next stage as I am building it. This is a very absorbing kit and a cheap hobby. Regards, Sam.
  12. First hull planking fixed, filled, whitewashed and marked up ready for second planking. This is a big fat boat and planking took for ever. Waterline marked but feels too high. Needs dropping 12mm. Will have to do more research before I settle on this location. The supplied plans are no use at all, the side elevations differ significantly. Bulkheads 9 and 11 were too low over middle third. Didn't spot this until after planking. This was both sides and took a fair bit of filling. Sam.
  13. Thanks everyone for visiting and comments. Upper deck shot garlands fitted. Replaced instructions with something neater. Highlights will fade when the varnish dries. Sam.
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