NRG Photographic Model Ship Competition - All eligible to enter - Reduced memberhsip fee - JULY 31 ENTRY DEADLINE
×
New Banner Ad Sponsor - Epic Engravers - Great plank bending machine (also bends thin metal sheets) and unique engraved coins to label your model displays!
×
alross2
-
Posts
391 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by alross2
-
Both houses, both hatches, and the cap rails are now glued on.
-
Stanchions are in. Cap rail will go on next week.
-
Starting some assembly now. Today I have to drill and paint the 30+ deadeyes with chainplates.
-
The basic "sticks" are done. Each mast has a dozen mast hoops from .015" laserboard. At the moment, I'm stropping blocks with twisted wire.
-
Nope, just plain old automotive bondo.
-
That’s it. After laying on the 1st layer, it’ll be a coat of Durham’s Rock Hard wood filler and sand sand sand. It’s early days, but it’s got the shape of a ship now. You might consider a different filler as Durham's is usually much harder than the woods (such as bass) commonly supplied in kits. I've used auto body filler (bondo) for decades. It's the same relative hardness as basswood, so it sands and feathers well without scouring out the wood on either side of the patch. In addition, as it is a polyester resin, it is an adhesive and locks the planks in place. One water-based filler I've had success with is Famowood which I purchase online. It is similar in hardness to basswood and sands well.
-
Some more bits and pieces. Top to bottom - wheel house, winch head house, main and mizzen boom rests. Forward house.
.thumb.jpg.4c43faea398bf64fceea4c8a3f9b78a7.jpg)
-
Basic components placed but not glued to get a general overall view.
-
Untitled-1.pdfUntitled-1.pdfThis is the aft house in its not yet finished state. There are currently 42 pieces in its assembly so far. The drawing is the .015" laserboard at the moment. Untitled-1.pdf
-
I love our laser. This is one side of the forward house. The top piece is .015" laserboard and has the mullions for the windows. It will be laminated to the inside of the bottom piece which is 1/32" basswood. The square and rectangle on the bottom piece are the window frames which are .015" laserboard. When the house is completely built and painted, .010" clear styrene with its back side painted black will be glued to the inside of the inner lamination. Both houses will be built this way.
-
Starting to look like a boat...but still lots to do . Hull is painted and needs a couple spots retouched. Nothing is glued down to the decks although pieces are in their approximate locations. Right now, I'm putting the window frames on the deck houses.
-
Cap rails, chock rails, buffalo rails, windlass, and anchor chain installed yesterday.
-
Here are the two ladders to the quarterdeck. The rails are .035" and the treads are .015" laserboard. The first tread is a bugger to install, the other three not so much.😎
-
Hull is now in primer so I can see all the "goobers" and take care of them. At the moment, I'm fitting out the main deck level of the forecastle as I won't be able to access that area once the raised forecastle deck is fitted.
- 40 replies
-
- 15
-
-
I know most of you folks are "stick and string" enthusiasts but am curious if anyone is interested in more modern vessels. Rather than watch TV in the evenings I've been slowly working on a potential 1/48 kit of a WW2 Higgins 78' PT boat. Structurally, it will be like most of the later kits I've done for BlueJacket - laser-cut planked hull built with the Hahn method, resin and britannia parts, etc. It will be an early boat with tubes and can be built as either a Mediterranean or Pacific boat.
-
I'm getting too soft in my old age... These are the chock rails and cap rails for the aft section. There are about 24 cast stanchions, each of which has a pin on both ends. Rather than make the modeler measure and drill the holes for the stanchions, I've laser cut them in. The chock rail is 1/8" bass while the cap rail is .035" laserboard, the latter being far more robust than the original 1/32" basswood ones.
-
Well, we finished up the Whaleboat Davit kit today, so it is now available. It includes laser-cut parts (davit sections, deck section, cradles, and ladder rails), Britannia sheaves and blocks, strip wood for planking the bulwark, rigging material, full-size plans, and an instruction manual. Scale matches our New Bedford Whaleboat.
-
Since Chris wanted to expand the scope of this thread, here's some basic info. Scale is 1/96, construction is plank on bulkhead. Construction is essentially the same as ALABAMA, KEARSARGE, NOTMAN, and WYOMING - poplar ply bulkheads on a central profile although this time the bulkheads are one-piece.
- 40 replies
-
- 11
-
-
Timberheads are now installed on both sides and the bulwarks trimmed down to their tops. Worked out fine, no breakage when sanding the bottom of the timberheads prior to installation.
-
Right now, they are 1/8" basswood. I've installed both sides now and haven't experienced any splitting while sanding the bottoms of the timberheads.
-
Whatever you consider appropriate.
-
The kit will include a jig to support the bulwarks while they are being built. The three holes in the jig match the spacing of the mast holes in the deck and the jig is held in place with 1/4" dowels, making removal easy when bulwark construction is completed
-
Chris, a skilled modeler such as yourself will be able to replicate the THAYER from this kit...😎 These are the revised timberheads on a new hull. They are clamped and drying out after soaking. I revised the planking sequence so that the top plank of the bulwarks is just a bit above the timberheads. The top plank will then be trimmed to the top of the timberheads establishing the correct sheer.
-
Well, for now we'll just describe it as a "West Coast lumber schooner"...😎
.jpg.16197811f1fc0e0a2c0dcdd1749b4e14.jpg)
Our Emblem ®
