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alross2
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Everything posted by alross2
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On occasion, we end up with solid hulls that we can't put in kits because they are chipped or gouged, have an unexpected knot, etc. These defects are easily repaired by anyone with minimal skills or scratch-building experience. Because the hulls are shaped to the point at which they would have been ready for final shaping, they save the modeler the time it would take to cut out the necessary lifts, glue them up, and carve the hull. The list of on-hand hulls is constantly changing. As of this post (February 16, 2024), we have one each of the following hulls available: 1/192 ARLEIGH BURKE (DDG-51) 1/96 ATLANTIC 1/96 FANNIE GORHAM 1/192 FLETCHER class destroyer 1/192 NS SAVANNAH nuclear cargo vessel 1/32 RED BARON Holland 32 lobster boat 1/96 310' CLEMSON class destroyer For more information and prices, contact al@bluejacketinc.com .
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Naming of British Motor Torpedo Boats WW2
alross2 replied to Amanda G's topic in Nautical/Naval History
In this time period, RN MTBs, MGBs, and most other Coastal Forces craft were officially referred to by designator and number, e.g., MTB 34. Some may have had unofficial nicknames, but I'm not aware of any RN types. US PTs, on the other hand, while also only referred to by their designator and number, e.g., PT34, commonly had nicknames. These nicknames would often change with a new skipper, as well. -
😆 Thank you for your subtle attempt at influencing the outcome...😆 Actually, it's not what piques my interest so much as what seems most likely to sell well and I'm fine with that.
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The kit survey will end this Friday, Feb 16, so you still have a few days to suggest some potential candidates. To date, I've received over 150 suggestions with a very broad range of types and time periods. The most responses any named vessel received was 4, so there are no overwhelming results in that area. The largest group of named vessels was naval vessels, mostly USN and from the pre-dreadnaught and WWII periods. Most sailing vessel suggestions were from the late 18th C to mid-19th C and were trading vessels. Vessel lengths ranged from 20' to 1013'. Almost all suggestions were for US vessels. I'll provide more details after the survey ends.
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Thanks to all who responded to the survey. There were over 100 responses with a wide range of subjects. I'm going to run the survey for another week, then we'll analyze the results. If you have a wish list, let us know.🙂
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If you are on Facebook, go here: Warship Camouflage Research Group | Facebook The admins are all extremely knowledgeable about naval camouflage. They are also very blunt, especially when it comes to paint schemes listed in most kits.🙂 Al Ross
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If you build multiple models and keep them, space to display them can become an issue. Obviously, the length of the actual vessel and the desired scale determine the actual size of the model, so ultimately one has to consider available display space when making their choice of kit. BlueJacket's kits range in length from about 2” (N scale lobster boat) to about 60” (1/96 scale WYOMING); most fall within the 18”-36” range. So, as part of the new kit survey, I'm asking what folks consider a reasonable length range for their models so that they can be comfortably displayed in their home. These parameters will help us determine which subjects and at what scale will best meet our customers' preferences. As before, please send your thoughts to al@bluejacketinc.com or post them here. Thanks.
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WW2 navy ship colors?
alross2 replied to wmherbert's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Don't be led astray by generalist statements about the colors of naval vessels in WW2...🙂 LCTs (like most USN vessels) were painted in a variety of Measures (camouflage schemes). If you know the number of your Dad's boat, go to www.navsource.org, select the AMPHIBIOUS button, select LCT, and find it in the list. Hopefully, there will be a photo of her, which will display the pattern. After that, you can look for a camouflage measure sheet which will list the appropriate colors by official designation (5-HG, 20B, etc.). I'd be happy to assist you with this process, if you like. -
It's time to be thinking about the next new kit(s) from BlueJacket and we would like to know in what subjects you folks would be interested. If you'd like to make a suggestion, please list the vessel's name, type, time period, and desired scale. Email your suggestions to al@bluejacketinc.com within the next two weeks. Thanks, Al Ross
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I use a single-action Paasche airbrush that I've had for at least 40 years - works great. For fillers and primers, I use automotive body putty (like Bondo) and rattle can primer surfacers you can get at your local automotive supply house (NAPA, Pep Boys, etc.). Bondo is the approximate hardness of basswood and sands beautifully. As a polyester resin, it also acts as an adhesive. When the cracks are filled, the wood isn't going anywhere. The automotive primer surfacers are hard-drying and sand well with wet-or-dry sandpaper for an excellent finish. Avoid the hardware store primers as they are often soft and clog your sandpaper.
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Jeff, you have an older kit. The revised kit uses .060" square styrene to form the keel and stem. It's a lot easier to bend...🙂 Al Ross
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- Nantucket Lightship
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Yes, they are made by a number of companies, including True North. Because P564 operated with the OSS, you might want to confirm her paint scheme, as many of the "spook" boats had specific schemes at different times.
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I drew those plans decades ago using the yard drawings. Here are a couple variations on paint schemes applied to them. One (white, yellow, orange) is the "clown" scheme applied to boats post-WWII. The other is the standard Sea Blue (5-S) and Deck Blue (20-G) of the WWII period. I have the boat manual and quite a few photos of this type and would be happy to attempt to answer any detail questions you might have. A number of these boats had the USN's MK12 20mm mount in the well deck aft. That shown on my old drawing is a MK4 mount, which was on the original drawings.
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This is the fixture that will be included in the kit for bending and drilling the aft railing.
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Experimenting with this template. All of the black areas are deck fittings and will be cutouts on the template. The modeler just places the template on the deck and marks the openings with a pencil. This eliminates the tedious measuring of the location of each part from the plans. I'll probably add the part numbers for each on the template, too.
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These are the BlueJacket kits. The stem on the ALABAMA is quite straight with a smaller radius at the bottom. The stem on the KEARSARGE has a large radius. The propeller on ALABAMA was in a frame that allowed the prop to be retracted into a well in the hull while the KEARSARGE prop was fixed. The forecastle of the ALABAMA had a relatively fine entry while that of KEARSARGE was more bluff and decked over. ALABAMA KEARSARGE KEARSARGE ALABAMA
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As of today, these are the brass and aluminum masters for the fittings specific to the 82' WPB kit.
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Just me...🙂
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The hulls are quite different between the two. I developed 1/96 scale kits for both using Bocock's reconstruction drawings (based on yard drawings) for ALABAMA and copies of the yard plans for KEARSARGE from NARA. During the ACW, KEARSARGE had only a short forecastle deck and a flush quarter deck. The raised quarter deck and extended forecastle deck were not added until her 1870s refit. I'll see if I can find the lines drawings for each and upload them.
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Been working on casting masters for a bit. Have made 20 so far. These are the most recent - boom winch and escape scuttle.
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1:12 scale landing craft [plans]
alross2 replied to tom q vaxy's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
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1:12 scale landing craft [plans]
alross2 replied to tom q vaxy's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
This will provide you with all you need: The Boat that Won the War: An Illustrated History of the Higgins LCVP by Charles C. Roberts | Sep 1, 2017 -
Put on the windshield frame and gave the pilot house/cabin its first coat of white. It's just sitting on the hull in these photos.
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Finally got the windshield frame figured out. There are ten pieces to the frame - two sets of five laminated. The window openings in the back pieces are slightly smaller than those in the front pieces, providing a lip upon which the laser-cut clear windows will sit. Once laminated, the frame will be pieced together with tape on the back, inserted into the pilot house shield, and glued in place. The tape will be removed and any gaps will be filled. The windows won't be attached until everything is painted.
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