harvey1847

Yup, cumulative error can really mess things up. Good on you for having the courage to re-start, Jerry!

Hello Everyone,
Wow, it's a little over 2 years since I've posted anything. So, here's a little update. One of my other life long hobbies is R/C aircraft - large R/C aircraft. Back in April of 2013 my dad approached me with the question of whether I could build a replica of the TBM Avenger torpedo bomber in which my grandfather was a turret gunner aboard during WWII. I informed him that it was indeed possible and that yes I could do it. My Grandfather just turned 90 years old last Dec. Due to his age such a project required immediate attention as I wanted to get it finished before he passed on - we just don't know how long we have. So, that meant putting the Richard on the shelf and shifting focus to the Avenger. I am happy to report that last summer we fired the engine up and taxied the plane around my Granddads backyard. There is still a lot of work to do on it yet, painting for one - which due to the size of the model (little over 9 foot wingspan) must be done outside. Basically, I need to wait until spring when it stops raining here in Washington State. So, I am taking a little break from the Avenger for a couple months.
 
More importantly, I started the Bonhomme Richard as a long term project. Back when I started it I really had no place to put the model once it started reaching finished dimensions. My home was too small to house a  4 or 5 foot long model ship. So, I am happy to report that as of November of last year I purchased a house large enough to house the Bonhomme Richard in its yet to be built case once completed. A fringe benefit to the larger house is that I now have a larger shop. I went from a small table in a single car garage to an entire two car garage. This has allowed me to expand my collection of shop tools. Things like a new 48" lathe, 14" bandsaw, planer, and one heck of a nice delta table saw. I had one of those little Craftsman table saws and one day I was trying to rip a full size sheet of plywood for some storage cabinets in the garage. I got tired of chasing the table saw across the shop floor and down the driveway. Plus the thing is insanely loud. Since I was on a mission to improve my tool inventory I also took the opportunity to improve my wood carving tools. I years ago I had looked into quality woodcarving tools and choked at the cost of them, as a result I turned to low quality Chinese wood carving tools from Harbor Freight - I hated them. They took hours of work to put and edge on them only to have it lost 5 minutes into carving. Advice DON"T BUY THAT JUNK. I finally bit the bullet and started buying Pfeil gouges and I now have about 30 different ones. I am still simply in disbelief at the quality of these gouges They take a razor sharp edge and they hold for a long time cutting through oak, maple and cherry. When they do dull all they really require is a couple passes on a strope to bring back that razor edge. I'm not kidding about how sharp these are either, they are like scalpel sharp. So do yourself a favor and don't skimp on tools.
Now for a bit of bad news - well good news then bad news, and then good news. Last weekend I finally located the box in which I had packed away the Monography for the Bonhomme Richard. Finding it got me eager to jump back in a work on her some more. The hull had been sitting on a shelf in my office in the state I left it in two years ago. I brought it in to shop and laid out some of the plans to figure out where I left off and that's when I noticed problems. Alignments where off due to certain parts getting cut wrong. I began to realize that when I started this project I was making little errors here and there and trying to compensate for them as I continued one. I spent the better part of last Saturday going over the hull rechecking everything thinking that I could pull the bad parts off and remake them and drive on. Honestly, I could have done that but sometime last Sunday I decided to scrap the entire hull and start over only this time instead of using maple I would switch to cherry. In addition to the stock of maple I have in my shop I acquired roughly 500 board feet of cherry that I used to make some cabinets inside the house. I really like the figure and character of the cherry wood and decided it would look nicer than the maple on the model. So, I am in the process of rebuilding the model in Cherry at this time. I'm not going to post pictures just yet because it would really be just a rehash of the ones I've already posted just with a different wood. Once I get caught up to where I was I start posting pics again.

some more pictures of the bow after performing a little sanding and shaping

More frames. As you can see from the previous pictures there is 61 frames that make up this hull.

After working one half of the bow I needed a break so I began framing starting at the stern.

Here are some more pictures of the cant frames. These gave me a bit of trouble due to the multiple tapers on them and I ended up making several of each piece before getting some I was happy with.

Next comes the cant frames forming the bow. I did a short video for Jeronimo that illustrates how cant frames for the Richard are laid out, cut, and placed on the model. The link is here 
.A lot of ships from this period had cant frames and bows constructed in a similar manner so the video might be useful to reference.

Some more pictures of the bow area

Before continuing on it is worth mentioning that I was following Ed T's Naiad build on the old site. I copied some of the tools that he made in that log. 
 
The first is a marking guage that can be used to transfer dimensions of the drawings right to the model. The second piece is simply a right angle brace that I temp attached to the jig board at the bow to support that area during construction. The final piece is a right angle wall with a notch cut in the bottom to clear the keel and the cleats. This "Wall" helps ensure that the frames are installed vertically.

The next piece I chose to tackle is the the bow stem. This piece was the most difficult piece I had done at the time. I think it turned out quite well.

Some more pictures of the stern framing

LOL...Thank you Harvey. I was just looking at your log.The jig is pretty simple to construct, basically it is a white MDF board with cleats attached either side of the keel. There is a triangular piece at the stern which is cut to match the angle of the stern post.
 
Now lett the framing begin!!!!

Stern frames continued

the stern frames continued

Now for the part that had me sold on building this ship...the stern framing. Karl's (Jeronimo) stern framing was so smooth that it looked like a sculpture.
I guess it is worth mentioning that I scan the area of the drawings that I am working on. Then print them out on my computer. If you do this though be advise to check the print out against your drawing because many scanners do distort the image. I then cut out the area I am working on and afix it to the wood using scotch 77 spray adhesive.

Hello everyone. I am reloading the build log for my Bonhomme Richard that was lost due to the data loss. Luckily, I keep photos on my home computer along with albums on Facebook.
 
The Bonhomme Richard (Ex-Duc de Duras) 1:48th scale by Jerry Greening
Personal Background
     I have been building plastic scale models for the last 35 years. Some of those models include the Lindberg line of ships along with two Revel U.S.S Constitution. For quite some time I have wanted to build a plank on frame ship for many years but never really had the time. In my late teens up till my mid 20's I served in both the US Army (143rd EVAC Hospital) and the US Navy (USS Jarrett FFG-33). About 4 years ago I came across a plastic kit for a Perry Class Frigate - same class as I served on. I built that model and converted it to match the Jarrett as she appeared during Operation Desert Shield in 1991. Once I finished the Jarrett the bug to build the plank on frame bit hard. The question of what to build remained. I began looking through the model shipways, Mantua, and Dumas catalogs - I didn't find anything that really bit me as a project. I was looking for a special 17th century American warship other than the Constitution. In searching across the internet I came across some pictures of Karl Wienmann's build of the Bonhomme Richard. I was impressed by his workmanship, moreover the Bonhomme Richard struck me as the perfect project after all what ship could possibly fit along side my Jarrett than the flagship of the man who is regarded as the father of the United States Navy. My perusing of Karl's pictures led me to Model Ship World which I originally joined in 2011. Knowing I needed to hone some ship modeling skills i did purchase the Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop, which I did my first build postings on this website (I plan on reloading that build log soon). In the mean time I set about the task of locating some drawings for the Bonhomme Richard. Through my research I discovered that Jean Boudriot drawings of the ship are generally considered to be the most accurate. These where being sold at onetime by Ancre, which is a French nautical publication company. I sent off a couple emails to them inquiring about purchasing the drawings - I never heard back from them, which is a complaint echoed by several other people. Trying a different path I conducted a search through some online used bookstore databases. I found many copies available, however the least expensive of these was through Amazon.De (Amazon in Germany) that copy ended up being US $350, I didn't purchase them at first, only after spending many more weeks searching for something less expensive, which I didn't - so I ordered them, but only after my other half well basically ordered me to order them. I guess she got tired of me searching. She also didn't really have an idea how big the Richard is at 1:48 scale. Something she figured out about the time I laid the keel out - I now owe her a bigger house. Note that if you are to look for these drawings today they are about $150 less than what I paid due to the Euro being weaker against the Dollar than it was two years ago, they are available through several online booksellers. Keep in mind though they are out of print, somewhat collectible.     The Bonhomme Richard - History
     The Bonhomme Richard began her life as a French East Indiaman named the Duc de Duras. The Duras was launched in Lorient, France on 28 November 1765. Over the course of her career with the French East India Company the Duc de Duras made four voyages to the orient and was for a time utilized as a French troop transport before ownership was transfered to King Louis XVI in January of 1779. By this point in thecareerof the Duc de Duras she was extremely worn and considered too old a vessel for the voyage from France to the orient. The actual purchase of the ship by the French Crown was part of deal negotiated by Benjamin Franklin to secure larger ships for the fledgling "American Navy". Franklin was a regular in King Louis's court, his presence in France served the purpose of keeping the cause of the American Revolution fresh in the minds of the French King and his court in order to continue receiving supplies needed by the American Colonists in their war with the British. The presence of John Paul Jones in France was for a slightly different purpose. John Paul was in command of the American sloop Ranger where he was conducting the war along the coastline of the British Isles.        The work to convert the Duc de Duras to a ship more suitable for warfare began in March of 1779 and was completed in May of that same year. It was during this yard period that John Paul Jones renamed the ship the Bonhomme Richard, which was the title of a very popular book in France at the time, penned by none other than Benjamin Franklin. The Duc de Duras being a vessel of trade was thus not very heavily armed, much of this conversion involved openning some gun ports while closing others and relocating still others as Jones saw fit in order to turn her into a ship of war. According to Jean Boudriot, the Duras had been designed to accommodate 13 guns of 12lb rating on each side of the gun deck. In reality the ship only carried three on each side with the remaining 10 ports having been planked over. Due to the difficulties Jones encountered in securing 18lb cannons which Jones wished to arm the Richard with, he only opened an additional 4 ports per side of the gundeck. In the end Jones was only able to secure six 18lb cannons instead of the desired 10, requiring a new gunport to be cut in the aft section of the hull for the purposes of trimming out the stern of the ship. The use of the larger 18lb cannon also necessitated the enlargement of all the gunports. Other modifications included enlarging the gunports on the upper deck to accommodate 12lb cannon in lieu of the 8lb cannon the ship was originally designed to accommodate. Additional ports where cut into the wardroom at the stern, a pair of bowchaser ports at the bow and an additional 5 ports per side on the quarterdeck, these where armed with 8lb cannon. Additional structural modifications included the addition of iron knees to the upper decks to accommodate the weight of the additional cannons. Jean Boudriot also theorized that Jones would have modified the masts and rigging to accommodate royal topsails that where the norm for the period thus he incorporated these into his drawings.        With Modification work to the Bonhomme Richard being completed in May of 1779, Jones set to sea in June of that year tasked with escorting a convoy. During the escort the Richard collided with another ship in the convoy severally damaging the bow area of the ship and requiring a return to the yards for repair. During this yard period Jones had the riding bits moved from the main deck down to the gundeck with new hawseholes cut appropriately. The capstan was also replace having suffered significant damage in the collision. By August 14th, repairs complete John Paul Jones, now in command of a seven ship squadron, set sail from France bound for the coastal waters of Scotland and Ireland in a repeat of an earlier cruise Jones made in command of the Ranger. Three of the vessels would desert Jones squadron before reaching the coastline. By all accounts the squadron,now consisting of just four ships, sank, burned, and took a number of merchant vessels as prizes, , alsoknowledgeof Jones presence off the coast caused a bit of concern among the coastal towns and villages and within the British government, who viewed Jones as a pirate. The British Navy had orders to intercept Jones and put an end to his terrorizing of the coastline. On the afternoon of September 23rd 1779 off the coast of Flambourgh Head Jones squadron engaged in the pursuit of a number of merchant vessels. The vessels upon sighting Jones squadron turned back,their retreat covered by two British warships the Countess of Scarborough and the 44 gun HMS Serapis setting the stage for one of the most legendary navel battles in American history.   Flambourgh Head      At 6:30 on September 23rd the Serapis and the Bonhomme Richard engaged each other, the sun was just setting and the winds where light. Going into the battle the HMS Serapis had the upper hand in that she was both more maneuverable and more heavily armed than the Bonhomme Richard. In the first hour of the battle heavy fighting ensued that saw all six of the 18lb cannon aboard the Bonhomme Richard were put out of action due to one of them exploding causing heavily damage to the gundeck forcing the Richards gun crews to the upper decks. Jones slowed the Bonhomme Richard, turned to the starboard into the Serapis and attempted to board her on the starboard quarter. In an attempt to avoid the boarding maneuver, Captain Pearson aboard the HMS Serapis turns her to the starboard crossing in front of the Bonhomme Richards bow, unable to avoid collision the Bonhomme Richard struck the starboard quarter of the Serapis. The HMS Serapis eventually pulls free from the entanglement resulting from the collision. Captain Pearson brought the Serapis alongside the Richard at gun range in an attempt to utilize the still functioning main batteries aboard the her. Jones immediately counters this by turning starboard across the path of the Serapis. Due to reduced maneuverability the HMS Serapis is unable to avoid collision and slams into the Bonhomme Richards starboard side, the bowsprit of the Serapis becoming hopelessly entangled in the Bonhomme Richards mizzen shrouds. Jones Paul Jones continues turning the Bonhomme Richard to the starboard bringing her alongside the Serapis, the two ships are now lashed together by a large number of grappling hooks, night has fallen and the battle continues at point blank range for the cannons along with hand to hand combat on the upper decks of both ships. The frigate Alliance, under command of Captain Pierre Landais and part of Jones own squadron begins circling the Serapis and the Richard indiscriminately firing grapeshot into the rigging and across the decks of the two ships. The Serapis's 18lb cannon continued to tear through the waterline and the gundeck of the Bonhomme Richard severely weakening her already old framing timbers. Just three hours into the battle the Bonhomme Richard  was on fire with half her crew already dead or injured. Only three of the port side 8lb cannon located on the Bonhomme Richards quarterdeck remained serviceable. The Bonhomme Richard was sinking, two petty officers both wounded and under the belief that John Paul Jones was dead hailed the HMS Serapis calling for "quarters" by some accounts they also attempted to strike the Richards colors. Jones, who had been commanding one of the last serviceable 8lb cannons on the quarter deck heard them. Jones rushed the two petty officers, striking one unconscious with his pistol. There was a reply from the Serapis asking if Jones wanted to surrender. Jones replied back "I may sink, But I'll be damned if I surrender!" In later years this became the more widely known phrase "I have not begun to fight!" With the Bonhomme Richard in dire straits two events occured that would instantly turn the battle in Jones favor. The master-at -arms aboard the Richard released English prisoners being held below deck and put them on the ships pumps, they managed to stem just enough of the incoming water to keep the ship afloat just long enough for the next event to finally turn the tide of battle. Jones had heavily barricaded the top rigging of the Bonhomme Richard back in France. A number of sailors where utilizing the top rigging as a point to lay musket fire and drop grenades onto the Serapis deck below. One sailor ventured out to end of a yardarm and managed to drop a grenade through an open hatch on the Serapis's maindeck, the grenade reached the gundeck where it exploded setting off nearby power kegs wrecking the gundeck of the HMS Serapis. By 10:30 pm after just 4 hours of fighting with both ships burning fiercely and half their crews dead or injured Captain Richard Pearson of the HMS Serapis struck the ships colors and surrendered to John Paul Jones. It took the combine efforts of both crew to finally extinguish the fires aboard both vessel by sunrise on the 24th. Though the Bonhomme Richard was still afloat, due to the efforts of the men at her pumps, Jones realized she was lost, he transfered his command along with his wounded to the Serapis. On the morning of Saturday the 25th of September 1779 the Bonhomme Richard slipped beneath the waters off Flambourgh Head.

Stairs:  Rather than scrape the pattern, I cut a slot with my (Byrnes) table saw, then another cut on the edge  at a shallower level.  Lots of sanding to get a delicate profile.  I then cut miters and put the pieces together.   That way, the pattern on the ends exactly matches the face.  The tails were sanded off and finished with 320 grit paper.  They look real rough under the macro lens so a once over with the scotch pad and they should be good.  The backs have to be sanded on an angle so the treads are level as they get placed up the side.
Maury

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

Work continues on the keel detail.  I have to admit that I was a bit concerned about scrapping the rabbet into the keel.  I have always done this with a #11 blade and some files.  But no more!  It took about ten minutes to fashion a scraper using the pattern from the book and in another 20 minutes, I had perfect a perfect keel rabbet on both sides!  I just started with very light scrapes, never getting gready and it all worked out fine.
 
  The scraper in the photo was made by using an old saw blade for an exacto knife.
 
I ordered some copper wire for $7.  The info is on the photo. I then installed the wire, pulling it first to anneal it and dipped in CA.  I think the 22ga wire used a #71 drill bit.  I drilled the holes using my new Microlux press that Santa brought.  Yes, the bolts are too close together, not sure where my head was at the time, so if  you are copying my work, please refer to the book for proper spacing.  I will live with this error...
 


 
Now for the fun stuff! 
Below are the Bollard timbers as well as the hawse pieces.  I have made four sets of Bollard timbers as a result of not being able to get the proper angle at the foot.  I have scratched my head about this for many hours.  And have come up with a plan that I will execute this weekend. 
 

 
Here are the short timbers that attach to the Bollards. It is absolutely essential to get the right angle in all directions here.  Small variations will translate into bigger headaches down the road.
 

 
In efforts to get the angles right, I have done the following:
Ensure the bollard timber foot angle is 34.5 degrees. Dont just rely on your grinder for this angle.  Prefit the bollard along with the short under timber and work with the shipway drawing to see that everything lines up. Ensure the bollard foot is perpendicular to the keel - this should be intuitive, but was not for me!  This will allow the first short timber (as noted above) to lay up against it and remain perpendicular to the keel.  Otherwise, this timber will lay over slightly and every piece thereafter will do the same. I made a template jig that clamps the template square so that I can prefit all these pieces.  I really like this jig.  I am going to put removable arms on it that will clamp to the t-track so that it wont move when I fit pieces.  This build makes great use of templates, so the investment in time is well worth it, and its also fun to make new tools.  I will take a few more pictures of the jig and post more detail in my next post. Once the angle is correct, I will glue the bollard and then finish scraping the stem rabbet.  There is some further detail work to be done on the keel before I start attaching the frames.    The foot of the template should be lined up with that on the shipway.  It is not in this photo...
 
Refelction:
 
As I build this ship, I am really changing the way I look at modeling.  While not a fast modeler in the past, I was always looking forward to the next build or piece.  Now that I am five ships in, I have decided to strive for higher quality and fewer ships.  I keep all my work (my kids will get them some day...). This build incorporates modeling skill, perserverance, education, math, puzzle building, ship building, ship design and obsession all into one. 
 
I hope to share the bollard timber results after the weekend.
Best, Gary

Stem - Keel - Stern:
 
Progress is slow and steady on the Naiad.  The entire backbone of the ship is all glued up and sits on the shipway, ready for the finishing touches before framing begins.
 

The Stem and Head of Knee all ready.  I cut the gammoning slot using a small drill bit to puch out successive holes and then cleaned it up with a file.  If I were to do this again, I would cut the gammoning slot before tapering the piece!  I had to angle the part so the slot would be perpendicular to the piece when fayed to the stem.  Also, if you are temped to not make the jig for tapering the knee of the head as outlined in the book (as I was), then you run the risk of having a bent nose to your ship (trust me on this and learn from my badly chosen shortcut).  I was able to correct the "bent nose", but the part could have been perfect, not just very good...
 

I still need to cut the rabbet as well as install the copper nails.  I ordered some antique copper wire in 22 and 24ga. for this purpose and will show it once it arrives.
 

I am very happy with the stern deadwood structure. A simple structure that was tricky to make due to all the angles.  In the end, just study how this should look on the real ship and then execute.  Its all very logical once studied.
 

This is how she sits on the slipway.  I am very pleased with the results.  There is a subtle taper fore and aft on the keel structure that I have never inclued in my previous models.  This is a really nice touch and is a result of precise plans and research by EdT.  My hat is off to him again for creating such a wonderful monograph.
 
I will be switching back to my US Brig Eagle to start the masting, and will start a log on that here next week.
All the best, Gary
 

Be careful with black paper. I've the exerience that the gluing is not stable. The problem is that paper has different layers and the wood glue will not go through all. I prefer black pulp, which I found in an hobby store. It has only one layer.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 135 – Capstans 3
 
With the capstan upper works mounted on their spindles, the next task was to make the baseplates and underlying timber supports.  Lacking cross-sectional details for these, I decided to mount them on an iron baseplate that would incorporate the anti-reversing pawl ring.  The appearance would be as shown in pictures of this type of capstan.
 
The iron baseplates with a groove around the outer edge were made first.  Stops for the pawls would later be soldered into the groove.  The first picture shows a baseplate being turned in brass.
 

 
A hole was first center marked and bored to fit the spindle diameter.  After turning to the final outside diameter of 44”, a 3” x 3” grove was then face turned as shown in the above picture.  The inside of this groove will be flush with the o.d. of the capstan bottom disk with its ½” thick iron rim installed.  In the picture this baseplate is being parted off.  The baseplates will be used to gauge the fit into the wood bases that were made next.
 
In the next picture, a pear block has been turned to the outer 54” diameter of the round wood base and the seat for the iron base plate is being face turned.
 

 
The grain digestion of these wood bases is fore and aft.  The next picture shows one of the baseplates being test fitted.
 

 
In the next picture the wood base is being parted off.
 

 
The main deck capstan has been temporarily set on these base parts in the next picture.
 

 
The iron band around the lower ring has been fitted and cemented to the disk with CA.  It was made from a leftover bit of hull strapping, measured to the circumference and silver soldered at the ends.
 
The main deck at the capstan location is virtually horizontal, so the issue of capstan rake did not have to be addressed.  This is not the case for the forward capstan that is mounted on the forecastle decking.  There is a lot of sheer on this deck, so the rake question had to be addressed.  I find this to be an interesting issue.  If the capstan is mounted vertically on a deck with considerable sheer the men will be forced to bend and raise their backs as the work their way around.  Making the capstan perpendicular to the deck seems a logical solution.  Being vertical offers no practical advantage that I can see.  However, capstans are shown vertical on many drawings, including Bill Crothers’ drawings that I have as a reference.  On the other hand, one of the Young America photos seems to show the forecastle capstan canted somewhat aft.  To try and resolve this, I looked through every clipper ship drawing and photo in the dozens of references that I have on these ships (Crothers, Chapelle, MacGregor, Campbell and others).  This left me exhausted and not completely satisfied.  I concluded that capstans were generally shown vertical on most drawings, but might be canted aft somewhat on decks with substantial sheer.  I decided to make the forecastle capstan essentially, but perhaps not precisely, vertical.
 
To do this, the wood base must be thicker at the aft end.  To accomplish this, the wood block was canted in the four jaw chuck after face turning the baseplate recess – as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In the picture the base is being parted off in the angled position.  The next picture shows the capstan temporarily fitted on its base.
 

 
It has a slight rake aft that I thought was appropriate given the appearance of the actual capstan in the photo of the ship.
 
In the next part, the pawl stops and ratchet arms will be added and the capstans permanently mounted.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 134 – Capstans 2
 
In the last post the top, mortised section of the drumhead was inverted and glued on the base turning to produce the square mortises shown in the first picture.
 

 
In this picture the piece has been turned to the final 34” diameter of the head. The top part was then turned carefully to fit the 32” i.d. of the top brass ring.  When a snug fit was produced at the end of the turning, that diameter was taken down to the seat of the ring – about 2” above the mortises.  The excess material was then parted off the top of the head as shown below.
 

 
Enough was left to produce the rounded up top of the head which was then turned.  The cutter was then set at the depth of the ring seat, backed off a measured amount, moved to the left to cut the lower ring seat, then dialed back down to that diameter.  The head was then parted off and the rings pressed on as shown below.
 

 
In this picture the rings have been cemented with thin CA glue and the top polished.  The next step was to make the 14” diameter spindles.
 

 
As shown above, a cherry turning square was fixed in a four-jaw self-centering chuck and held for turning with a dead center at the tailstock end.  In the next picture one of the two drumheads is being test fitted over its spindle.
 

 
The head was then glued to the spindle and the brass cap cemented into place.  In the next picture the flats for the 8 whelps are being filed on the spindle below the drumhead.
 

 
 
I had initially intended to mortise slots for these but the small size and the relative softness of the cherry left an undesirable result after milling, so I decided to simply file flats using the spaces between the head mortises as a guide.  The whelps were then made and glued on.  After the glue dried the whelps were secured with two epoxied bolts each. Lower disks were also made and fitted to each.   The two capstan assemblies at this point are shown below.
 

 
The whelps on the left capstan in the picture have been rounded concave and the wire bolts have been filed off flush.  The spindle on this capstan has also been cut to final length and a pin inserted in the bottom that will secure it at the step on the deck below.  This will be the main deck capstan.  The one on the right will be mounted on the forecastle.
 
In the next part the iron baseplates with their pawl stops and the underlying wood bases will be made.  Some details of the baseplate can be seen on the drawing in the above picture.
 
Ed

Hello all!
 
Still waiting for the answer about the question of the mizzen mast... Druxey, Mark, Jürgen... and all!
 
Anyway,
 
Here´s a pic of the Triton taked on June 18th 2014
 

 
And here´s a of how she have changed.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
 
 
I´m pretty happy cause now I can see the "final" shape of the ship. Cutting the frames was kind of a nightmare... almost everything started to crack so I have had to quote every single piece with a pencil an then stick them to the frames with tape or to see where I have to re-glue...
 
Hope to work some more on Easter!
 
 
 
daniel.

Und vieles mehr.