Beef Wellington

I already mentioned the next steps, now the next step was the rest of the entry port. Here, too, it is wonderful to see what else is still possible 🙂
But first define the size correctly and I realised that most entry ports on models are a bit too small, because they mostly align on the top edge with the gun ports besides. So I added a little more air at the top ...
 

 
... and provide them with a frame for the passage.
 

 
The scrollwork is presenting itself beautifully, note them in comparison with my epidermal ridges!
 

 

 
And what is even more important, even in this size well paintable, for this I tried different heights in some printer's rounds, but I think now it fits 🙂
 

 

 
Enjoy!
 
XXXDAn
 
 

Shrouds rattled down!
 
Quite a job - but the end result is certainly worthwhile I think - and anyway, what option is there?  The authorities agree that ratlines were space at about 1 ft apart, so at 1:64, about 5 mm.  That's convenient because I could use 5 mm graph paper to show the spacing and keep the lines parallel.  Here she is with the paper held in place and me about to learn how to tie clove-hitches quickly.  In the background you can see Petrejus open with an illustration of deadeyes, shrouds and ratlines showing.  Also shown in that illustration is a "sheer batten" sitting just above the deadeyes.  When I looked at this pic, I came to the view that the whole effect would be better with a batten so I fashioned some from 2 mm-square walnut
 

 
Here you can see the starboard lower ratlines with the sheer battens in place

 
And here, several weeks later, is the finished result, and a close up

 

 

 
I fond this pretty tough-going to start with, getting the tension right and tying the knots off took quite a while to learn.  But that surely, is at the heart of satisfaction in model-ship building: working out what to do is fun, but doing it requires skill, and skill you have to learn.  I flatter myself that I now have the skill of tying clove-hitches in 0.25 mm thread; I certainly should since I tied 908 of them.
 
On the subject of thread, the kit provides natural thread and breezily suggest that it be dyed, with a brush using india ink, after installation.  What could possibly go wrong?  I bought some of Caldercraft's black thread, and while its springiness was annoying, it looks fine.  From memory there were 900 copper plate to attach, and tying these knots was quite reminiscent of the labour of sticking on the plates.  Slow to start, deft to finish.
 
I am delighted with the overall effect.   I think the of the Cruizer class as workmanlike, rugged and un-flashy vessels, but with masts rigged, Snake looks really quite graceful.

Thanks for the comments and likes.   
 
  Jacek is correct.  I've just finished the first two laser cut/carved pieces.  If you'll go to Chris's website, the instruction might still be there to download as a pdf.   
 
Hoarding? Not hardly.   LOL.  
 
Here's were I am today.  The first two planking sheets are installed.  I would have done more but life got in the way this week.  Hopefully will pick up speed and ambition starting today.
 
Here's a photo of the current state.   

Port side is pretty much done sanding.  Feels smooth to the touch.  Lessons re-learned....  do a better job planking.  Maybe add some filler between bulkheads in any area with curves (bow mainly).   Now to start the starboard side.  I may rip off a few planks and re-lay them.  Note to self... check and re-sand and recheck again the stern transom area.

 

Thanks for the likes, the comments, and following along.
 
The other side is now finish sanded.   I think when I get to the step for painting, I may need to do some more sanding and possibly filling.   I'm at the point of ready to do the first markup of the waterline.  Need to dig out the plans.   And.....  I will be painting the wales and planking down to the water line black. I had some serious issues (mine not the kit) with the stern planking area and had to fix it with quite a bit of homemade filler.  Now to get a grip mentally and work through my issues.  I'd like to be a lot further along when I go in for my heart surgery.  I'm goal setting, I know... usually a bad thing but in this case, being close will count.
 
Here's a pic of the other side sanded.....
 

Update... somewhat.  I have the starboard side, sanded, filled, and I think ready for paint though painting is down the road a ways.    Starting the other side of sand-fill-sand-fill... ad infinitum ad nauseam. I'll clean up the stern all at once after the port side is done.   Here's pics.... 

Due to some foul ups early in the planking, I figured out what I did wrong compared to my other models which involved miss sanding the taper of the planks.  About 50% would have been a better choice and bit better quality control on the taper to get it more uniform.  Too late to fix the starboard side so I did the best I could and it's now planked.  Live and re-learn.
 
I plan on painting per my previous post but still deciding on "artistic" changes like not painting over the keel but... still thinking about it.
 
I took the easy way out on the remaining planks and just cut each one in half and planked a way.  Now comes the sand-fill-sand-rinse-repeat until everything is nice and smooth.
 
After spending several hours cleaning up the shop, here's the progress photo of the starboard side.  

Update.   I was planking from top toward the bottom and bottom up (I had divided the hull into 3 zones per tutorial).  Low and behold, somewhere I messed up.  Could have the lining off of things but ended having to jerry rig the middle section.   I ran the "normal" planks as far down as I could and then "cheated".   My fix will be to sand and fill and sand then paint.  I've looked at some period paintings and realized I can do white stuff up to the water line (normal) and then run the black on wales on down to the water line and hide some ills.   I screwed up, realized it, and will at this point make it look good since ripping off planks isn't an option.  The first layer is pretty thin and even soaking the pear planks with alcohol I ran into issues.    Such is life.  I took a look at the Belle Poule which is on hold and the planking there looks better.  Not sure what I did differently... thicker planks maybe?  Filled in between bulkheads?  
 
I still need to work on the planking on the the other side and triple check more for my peace of mind and to work on getting it right even though the paint will hide it.   
 
I'm thinking on the paint not to paint the keel, stern post, and stem and call it "artistic license".... but I probably will just paint.
 
Here's the pick of the side that's been planked.  from a distance (across the room  it looks pretty good all things considered though I feel like I lost my touch.
 

 
 

I'm still working on the galleries...  specifically at this time the finials.  Tiny little things they are and I suspect that for me, the photo etch on them will be a big stretch.   One is done and the other is getting there.  I do see it needs a bit more shaping to match the curve of the stern. I hope these actually look like what drawings and photos show.... Feel free to critique in the comments.   
 
Gap filling and paint will come as soon as these are done and glued into position.

 

I think I have the stern fixed.  Still needs a bit of shaping which is in work.   I couldn't remove the underlayment for both pieces as I'd CA'd them.   Bad on me.   But the upper parts are where they should be. The lower one is now where it should be.  Here's pics of the stern as fixed.  I'll have to do some fettling for the windows but I accept that.   I've also learned that wood this thin is delicate and need to remember to have a lighter touch.


 

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Making more progress, slowly but still moving forward.   I've installed the gallery framing and also the first stern fascia.  Had some issues but my fault for not noting that the stern needs to be higher than the pics at this point show.  The note is later in the build,,,,, doooooh .  Broke a few bits off moving it but I'll add them back on before the covering piece.  There is some misfit with the counter blank as I think I set it too low but I think a bit of fill, sanding, and then the paint at the appropriate time will fix that.
 
I'll holding off painting the wales for a bit until I get the rest of the galleries set up.  I'm not fond of gluing things to paint which includes the gallery lower finishing pieces.

]Thanks again for the comments and likes.  
 
Update time... wales are installed as well as the black strake.  I'm not what I did wrong but the black strake was "short" about 3mm after installing starting at the front for that part and then the stern half so I added a bit of fill between them.  Not a problem, just a puzzlement.   Looks like work on the stern is next.  Here's pics.

Well... I've mad a dog's breakfast of things.   I had to move rails down as I indexed them on the wrong mark.  Got out the isopropal and started then disaster.  Seems the alcohol caused the acrylic black to run.  For damage control, I'll put the rails back on where they shouild be and then fix with paint. I'm thinking blue to match the line from the galleries forward to the bow and then black up to the blue.    <sigh>  As I fond ot saying...."crap happens". 
 

Thanks for following along....
 
More paint... the black this time.  Needs a few touch ups but I'm pretty happy at this point.   Now to sort the red and blue at the top of the hull and how to work around a few "gotcha's" like not paint where things like the channels need to be and the issue of the decorations going under some various bits.
 
Here's photos as she sits at the moment.

Humidity seems stabilized and I've filling, sanding, checking, rinse and repeat seemingly forever.  But, the white is done. and coated with two coats of flat clear.   Needs a bit of touch up in a few places but that will wait until I'm done with the black just in case some gets pulled up with the tape removal.  I did notice some areas where the tape didn't fully seal and one where the tape dipped a bit low... I'll fix when I do touch ups.  So, I'm taking the rest of the day off to let everything sit and then attack the black wales and down to the waterline.   I'll probably do the blue on the gallery windows but I may hold off on that.
 

Well.... I made a dog's breakfast of painting.  Call it lack of experience as I haven't spray painted in decades.  Need to sand and fill some spots.  What looked ok yesterday showed that the low humidity here is creating a few problems.  I'll sand, re-paint, and see what happens.  I'm not upset, just focused on learning more and mistakes are part of learning or re-learning.

Thanks for the likes and comments.   Sadly, the other side isn't looking as good.  Trying to clean up the mess removed some of the line of the planking.   <sigh>  Looks like this will be "back" side of the display.   Still need touch ups.....
 
Edit... forgot the photos. Here they are.

Finally have the port side done with painting and touch ups.. more touch ups, ad infinitum ad nauseum.  So here's two pics.  I've turned the hull around and started the yellow on the starboard side.   All things considered, I'm pretty pleased with the result so far.

Post Fifty-one
 
Port Linings – again.
I am using 0.6mm Boxwood strip for the purpose. The cills are the easy bit, the side pieces with their angles not so.

1751(2)
A card template was made to cut the sides from 10mm wide boxwood strip.
 
Each side needing final sanding and fitting, forty-four pieces in total, quite a time consuming business, and not a very exciting one.
Waiting for the replacement Quarter Gallery part to arrive gave me the impetus to get stuck in.

1757
Fitting in progress, to my eye the ports look better lined.

1790
It has taken 3 days to complete the fit, but the tricky part remains of painting the linings without marking the topsides planking.

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Cleaning up the inside bulwarks. 
 
A specifically designed sanding stick was required to avoid catching the spirketting and deck clamps whilst  smoothing off the  inboard linings.
In reality the Quick-works should extend over the inboard linings but having used  the pre-cut  inboard  bulwark patterns  this option was not available.

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I will leave any further work on the linings for the present, as the replacement gallery window patterns have arrived, (thanks Chris) and I can now complete the Starboard Quarter gallery.
 
B.E.
14/12/21
 
 
 
 

I was keen this morning to see how Chuck’s magic looked on Sphinx.
I am not disappointed.

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The arrangement will be enhanced once the decorative rails are applied top and bottom of the counters.

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Before the final pieces are applied I will lightly spray with artists fixative which may slightly change the colour.
I will need to create a paint mix close to the final tone for areas where background painting is required, but that’s a way ahead.
 
Thank you so much Chuck, what an asset you are to the ship modelling community. 👏
 
B.E.

I would strongly recommend going much larger with the letters....AND if you can, make them on a curve t match the curve of the counter.
 
But yes it looks great.   Let me see if I can facilitate something for you, see below.....
 

Thank you Guys for your supportive comments.
@ Ron – early days but I will probably go for something like Baskerville old face, based on a style originally developed in 1766.

 
I would aim for a slightly less strong colour contrast with the lettering, but all this is in the future.
 
B.E.
 

Post Fifty.
 
Completing the Galleries.
Now is the time it will become apparent whether my meddling has adversely affected the proper lie of the window and berthing patterns.

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Starting with the inner window pattern.
 I have worked on the basis of keeping the frame unaltered and running along the top line flush with the top of the frame.
I am using pva for this fixing to give me time for minor adjustments to the position. The outer pattern is checked for fit before the inner sets.
I was always expecting to have to do a fair amount of fettlin’ as I had  gone off piste with the gallery construction, and so it came to pass.
The day didn’t start well, the dog ate one of the outer window patterns another split during fitting, and the back edge of the assembly seemed to overhang the stern facia by 1mm, almost certainly due to my fiddling with the frames.
Not an unsurmountable issue as I will fix a work-around.
 
The Berthing piece is a short strong section of Pearwood that should follow the curve of the  pattern (45c).
I felt the need to soak this piece and  shape using the pattern I no longer needed as a former.

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In the end I scratch made the Berthing patterns to better fit my build.
The Berthing was pinned over this former and left overnight.
On the subject of Berthing patterns I had some discussion with James about which way around they were fitted.

1700(2)
It would seem that the end with the broader angle (on the right here)  fits at the stern end and butts against the Upper counter.
As the decorative mouldings follow the relative lines top and bottom around the stern counter and gallery this makes sense.
 
So, the basic portside gallery is completed.

1721(2)

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My purpose in undertaking this modification is to bring a sense of light and element of depth to the Quarter Galleries rather than a dead black space behind the lights.
Opening up the doorway and the absence of planking on the Quarterdeck will fully achieve this.

1730
 
 
Rather than use the provided Upper counter outer pattern I planked the counter with individual Pear strips.
I  don’t intend to use the etched brass lettering on the counter and I didn’t want the pre marked positions limiting my choices.
 

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A little more work is required on the lower finishing piece where it meets the wale but overall I am fairly satisfied thus far.

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1733(2)
I’ll leave this aspect of work until I receive the replacement window part for the Starboard Gallery.

In the meantime it’s back to port lining, at least with the outer Topsides patterns now in place it is easier to see how the linings should sit.
 
B.E.
10/12/21
 

 

Post Forty-nine
 
Gallery-Part three
A seat of ease is constructed using Box and Pear and is fitted to the Portside Gallery.
Brian Lavery (Arming and Fitting)  suggested that only one gallery was fitted out as a head, the other used for storage and observation of the sails.

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I can now fit the top Qtr gallery pattern (45) followed by the outer stern facia pattern. This now protects the somewhat flimsy inner pattern.

1672(2)
On the kit version inside the gallery is painted black to hide construction detail. On my open gallery style I have painted the  insides Vallejo Ivory which will help light the interior.

1665
At this point I’m not sure about fitting the Upper outer counter pattern as I’m not a fan of the raised etched Name lettering provided in kits.
My favoured approach is to use dry-rub lettering which has a more authentic and period look to it.
 
I had a play around (with Chuck’s permission)  using the decorative friezes and panels applicable to Winchelsea.

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The name was replaced using Photoshop and Paint, only mock-ups at present, and the letter style needs adjusting, but I’m rather drawn to the paper frieze approach.
I will return to this much later in the build.
 
The next post will hopefully see completion of the gallery assembly.
 
B.E.
07/12/21
 
 
 
 

Post Forty-eight
 
Gallery – Part Three
 At this point I have to attend to forming the Finishing piece.
Not an easy task I think with multiple angles and subtle curves. No comforting pre-worked piece from Chris here unless you include the blocky patterns that make up the piece.

On this detail from the  original Admiralty plans the finishing piece sits just forward of the wale end with the forward edge following the angle line of the Berthing.

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Gallery detail from the beautifully drawn plans by Chris Watton.

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Part 29 which is the top of the finishing piece is effectively the floor of the gallery so a frame is required to sit atop this to replace part 45a as the bottom fixing point for the Berthing pattern.
 
Confused yet? I know I am.🤔
 
A Boxwood frame is made to replace part 45a.

1591a
The frame is pinned and glued into place.
The block Finishing piece is held in place tight against the part 45a frame to ensure a good fit.
 
Shaping of the Finishing piece can now begin
A bit tricky deciding where to start with the shaping, and how to hold it during shaping.
As it happens I didn’t find it too difficult on either count.
 
The blurb indicates  leaving the back edge of the piece untapered, sanding the forward part to a fine edge.
The back edge needs to be bevelled downwards to follow the  aft edge concave curve of the wale.
 
I start by sanding the back edge of the piece to match the aft curve of the wale.
Fortunately the mdf is soft so is easy to form. The biggest danger is getting  too enthusiastic and take too much off or damage the shape.
 
Soft hands, small strokes, and constant fit checks are the order of the day.

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1608(2)
Shaping in progress.
 
This is one of those tasks that is difficult to describe, but hopefully as you get into it you start to see the shape emerging and get an appreciation of where to go.

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The Finishing pieces are glued to the hull and frame 45a.
The final finishing of these pieces will be done once the  Berthing pattern is in place.
 
A seat of ease will now be added to the Portside gallery.
 
B.E.
06/12/21