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    Sheffield, UK

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  1. Just did a quick search for Endeavour Longboats, having negleted them since I finished mine. Found yours. Great start, how’s it going? Mike
  2. Just found this - or rather something you posted elsewhere. Looking though your log brought back great memories of building my version last year - and we are both in Yorkshire! Anyway your work looks very clean and the hull looks very fine. How are you getting on with the rigging? cheers Mike
  3. Hi @Dougal Mack. At the end of my build log for Endeavour’s Longboat (link in the sig, below), I took some reasonably high definition photographs that show how I ran the rigging. If you are still looking for guidance that might help. Any other details feel fre to post and tag me,and I’ll see what I can do to help.
  4. Only just realised that I did not follow this last year - and now it's finished. Lovely job and interesting to see her "nude" that is, un-painted. Just had a pleasant 20 min scrolling through while I waited for a phone call. Great work.
  5. And as a special extra, some months early, I checked the display stand fits. I what to install it permanently at the point when inverting the gull becomes too risky. And as it happens I manage to spring one of the cathead by inverting it to install the bow cheeks. Fixed that with a little thin CA, and can protect them easily enough, so will revert to the cradle until the gunwales are on. But this looks pretty sweet I think: The slots in the columns were just under 5 mm wide, and the copper-coated keel just on 6 mm, so I had to file 1 mm of brass out of the col
  6. And the third instalment: bow cheeks Not much to it really. Bit of care with the angles to get a good fit.
  7. Next - fit the tiller. I deliberately left this until after I had the stern platform assembled to ensure there was no clash. Bit of attention to get the angles right, then I drilled a 1.5 mm hole in the rudder post. In my version of the kit, the tiller is 1.8 mm walnut ply - which does not require pinning with 1 mm wire. However, it presented a problem. To fit to the hole, I rounded off the "spur" removing most of the external ply from it. It then had no strength and "sprung" as I tried to fit it. I spliced in a short length of 1.5x1.5 walnut: I rounded of the extern
  8. Three updates to offer this week. So here goes. The fore and aft platforms are planked. Given my mixed experience with the main-deck planking, I'm really pleased how this went - with pretty scrappy materials, at that. Just experience I think. The strip at the bottom is the last remaining piece of tanganyika. Glad I was sparing in its use - because there is none spare. But just check out how straight it is(n't). Here are the ledges they sit on (since painted red ochre) And can I say I love the instruction to "measure accurately 1.8 mm" an
  9. Welcome! Nothing to be scared of here - just do what you are doing: look at logs and start building. Sometimes I learn enough from others to avoid mistakes, sometimes I don’t. Sometimes I do what the kit instructions say, sometimes I don’t (and not always by accident). Oh, and I love buying tools. I find the Sunday-night ritual of posting to my log really enjoyable. I photograph as I’m going during the week and then instead of clearing my inbox, get my log up to date. And I agree with Eric - take lots of photographs. cheers, Mike
  10. Thanks - I’m sure all my stylistic details are copied from others - so copy all you like.
  11. And here are the catheads. For the first time I embellished the kit design: rather than just drilling four holes where the catfall would run through the sheaves, I drilled-out and then-chiselled out slots into which I could fit some sheaves. Holes drilled at an appropriate angle to be vertical when installed. Reverse side shows that the dremel is only a fair drill press Best description is probably gouge-, not chisel-out the slots. Here they are with 1 mm discs cut from 3 mm dowel. Centering the holes in the discs proved beyond me. A t
  12. Headworks done. Not trivial as the provided parts and drawings are what a draftsman wold describe as being of nominal scale. Once you work that out, and engage low gear and defensive driving mode, it was all quit pleasing. The bow rails and cheeks go on first, and take quite a lot of sanding (cheeks) and trimming to length (rails) before all is good. Next comes the "bow head rail frames", or grating supports, as might be said with fewer words. Easy enough to paint and glue, at which point it is apparent that the grating sits much too high (wish I had re-read @Beef Wellington
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