Vivian Galad

Good morning.

Since I'm working on the fireplaces, here's a picture now that the iron bars the pots sit on have been installed.  I still have the exterior to plank and the pots to make.  The flash made them redder than then actually are as they're more of a red-brown or rust color.  I wanted them to look like they had been used.
 

 
 

Finally finished the first planking of the lower hull.  Ended up coming out really nicely I think - I might not have to use any filler at all, except maybe around the stern area with that turn up into the counter.  I still need to clean up a bit around the stern and bow, which I'll need to do by hand, but I used a palm sander outside today to sand the planking down.  Wow, does that make life much easier!  Was so quick to sand the hull, I still remember doing the Badger by hand and it taking forever.  
 
I'm now a big convert to bow and stern filler blocks, they really help!  A big thank you to Pete who suggested using them in his build notes.  One thing I started wondering is whether even if you're doing a POB kit, whether just adding filler blocks through the full area such that you don't even have to bother with a first planking would be quicker and easier than going through the first planking, sanding, filling, etc., and then adding the second (essentially, converting it to a solid hull).  Guess it depends how easy it is for the person to do filler blocks.
 
Some pictures of where I am:



One issue that has been bothering me is the fact that the kit provided different wood for the stem/rudder versus that for the keel.  The stem/rudder I believe is walnut, and the keel might be ramin.  The color difference between the two is too striking for my liking:

 
I was originally thinking of painting the lower hull white which would have made this a non-issue, but given how far I'm pushing on this build, I think I'm going to leave the hull natural.  I don't want to chance using a stain to even the colors out, because then I would have to use stain on the planking itself which leads to more chance of something looking out of place.  So, instead, I think I'm going to buy new wood for the stem, rudder, and lower hull planking.  I dropped the hull while planking it a while back and the stem snapped right off, so I think taking it off again should be ok.  The keel is a bit of a different story because I drilled the pedestal holes into it, and it's secured into the false keel by brass rod.  So, what I'll likely do is laminate the keel with thin walnut, and then maybe try darkening the very bottom a bit to avoid any oddities (people shouldn't really be able to see the bottom of the keel though).  Going this route will also be helpful in that I think I would like to spile the full hull as a challenge to myself (for my Pegasus, I only spiled planks up to the copper plating line.
 
Jason from Crown Timberyard is back up and running and has been very helpful in answering some of my questions. He sells both a dark walnut and mahogany.  I want the upper hull to be lighter in color than the lower hull, and I found a nice lighter cherry veneer that should do nicely.  I'm leaning towards using Jason's walnut over the mahogany as I think the colors will work better together.  Mahogany looks beautiful, but as a chocolate/orange/rich brown, I don't think that using cherry for the upper hull will work well.  Walnut and cherry though seem to complement each other nicely, at least what I've seen in other build logs.  Certainly welcome to any thoughts, ideas or suggestions!
 
Next, I'm thinking of working on the gun deck - planking, hatches, etc.  A nice respite before having to go back to planking the hull.

Great work, Ondras! Nice looking planking! 

Great work, Ondras! Nice looking planking! 

Great work, Ondras! Nice looking planking! 

Placed top wales made of 5x3 mm strips.. Bending it into an arc created an unsuitable shape at the stem ..
 

 
The end of the strip adjusted..

 
The result is satisfying ..
 




 
planking started..
 




 

Thank you honestly zappto, Backer, HubacsHistorian..!! I placed the keel, stem, stern post ..
 

 


 
According to the instructions I found on the Internet, I have created a tool for accurate ribbing..
 

 
And it works ..
 

 

 
 
And it works .. When ordering wooden strips I forgot to order 5x3 mm strips for wales, so I was forced to make them on a saw ..
 


 

Placed stem ..
HOME MADE narrowing milling cutter..


Created radius for the rudder hole frame ..


A part of the mirror with a hole for the rudder lever ...




 
 
 

Further work on keel, stem, stern post ..


I created a HOME MADE bottom grooving cutter, I do not want to buy it..



I tried it and it works ..



Christmas present, another piece in the workshop ..

So I'm finally enjoying working with cherry wood ..
The gun ports are brushed to the side's shape..


I tried bending the cherry, the first 5x4 mm strip in two directions, it goes easily just soaked ..


I started to tile the mirror with bright cherry wood, here is the future contrast with dark cherry..

created keel, stern post, stem..




 

Loopholes placed in the hull..





the inside of the hull painted black ..

 

Lined and trimmed lower cannon deck ..


The sheets of plans are a bit disapproving, I'm solving the heights of the bottom shot..

Made guns holes of cherry wood ..

The first plating of the submerged part is laid and ground..




The hull inside is reinforced ..


The construction is solid, waiting for the second plating ..

Laying the first plating of the bottom of the hull ..

Thank you Backer, I try to work honestly..
 
The correct shape of the plank hips is formed..


Bow and stern filled with balz..

The frame placed on the base plate ..

I painted the inner edges of the ribs, which will be heavily bevelled, black so that I did not tear off the edge when grinding..


A glued frame ..

Added base plate of the bottom mirror..


After the bevels, it's time for the 5x2mm spruce strips planking..

Thank you marsalv!!
 
The coarse skeleton of the hull..






 

I stuck the paper ribs on the plywood and started to carve ..


Grinders are also prepared ..


 

I got the planks and wood for construction from the Czech model maker Petr Šimek. Light cherry, dark cherry, maple .. 




 

Working with paper plans isn't exactly easy, but in the days before computers it was as well the only way.. The paper ribs really needed adjusting, making the radius accurate.. I transfered the modified shapes back onto the ribs. I transfered the heights and the shape of the deck and then deducted future planking.. I thought about a way of gluing the body of the galeon's hull, so that it wouldn't twist. I decided for a reversed variant, where the ribs stand in exact height on removable parts..


 
Finished paper ribs and keel are now ready for gluing on 6mm plywood and carving it..
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you for your welcome here. I have books ready to support the construction :
Wolfram zu Mondfeld - Historic Ship Models
Rolf Hoeckel - Risse von Schiffen des 16. und 17. Jahrhunderts
Herman Ketting - Prins Willem
Wolfgang Quinger - Wappen von Hamburg
 
Beginning "from scratch" is a bit different than a modular one, there is a lot to save and spoil..
As I said, I first created a paper half of the hull..



When laying a rail, some ribs really do not fit..

So I varnished the edges of the rib and there will be more grinding and adjusting . So treated ribs will be a template for plywood ones ..

Hi mates,
 
federicoaa welcome aboard. Happy that you want to borrow some of my ideas, thanks indeed. 
 
Have been away from the shipyard - returned a few days ago. Started the lower outer hull planking. Denis, that pen (from your log) is perfect for the caulking lines!!
Here are a few pics. Waiting for some ordered bits including barrels. I would like to actually make some realistic looking ones, but beyond my skill set. 
 
Started thinking about how to fabricate the floor just above the hold (sure that it has a specific name haha). Here are a few updated shots.
 
Cheers,
 

It is a kind of varnish with a very fast drying, so the wood does not give time to remove the pore. When it dries, it is very soft so it is very easy to polish it later. The final look is very similar to the one that gets the wax with a satin finish that I really like.
There are also tapaporos to water with similar results, but I like nitrocellulosic. Remember that it is not a product designed for the final termination, but it is a preparation prior to varnishing, but I use it as a termination.
Thank you