Jack Panzeca
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December. I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm. I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces. Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander. I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size.
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper. The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle. The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding. There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process. 30 oars stained and ready to row.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December. I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm. I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces. Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander. I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size.
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper. The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle. The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding. There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process. 30 oars stained and ready to row.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from janos in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December. I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm. I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces. Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander. I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size.
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper. The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle. The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding. There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process. 30 oars stained and ready to row.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Salty Sea Dog in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December. I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm. I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces. Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander. I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size.
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper. The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle. The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding. There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process. 30 oars stained and ready to row.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Bill Hime in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Hello Cristi and Bill,
Thank you for dropping by and for the kind words, they are much appreciated. I enjoyed visiting both your logs.
Cristi I admire your ability to work more than one project at a time. I could never manage it.
Bill, happy that you are back in the shipyard.
I have been working on oars lately and real life has slowed my progress a little. Thanks again for looking in.
Also, thanks to all the "Likes" they really mean a lot.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
I have been working on the shields. Finding the right center ornament has been very time consuming. I settled on cone head Hungarian hob nails. The shield on the left is supplied in the kit. The hob nails are next in the image below. I cut the head off and ground it close to flat. The construction of the new shields is documented earlier in the log. To finish them off all that was done is to ease the edges, glue the nail head onto the center and odd a coat of wipe on poly without stain. I did tests and the poly alone worked best on the mahogany. The hob nails were right size and crudeness for a ninth century shield.
I finished 8 of them and here is how they will look on the ship.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Bindy in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
A man after my own heart!!!!
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Vivian Galad in Oseberg ship by Von_Kossa - Billing Boats - Scale 1:25, 800 A.D (First wooden ship build)
Hello My Friend,
The oar holes look great.
I know that you are getting ready to stain and I wanted to tell you about something that I learned the hard way when I stained mine. I sanded everything in preparation for staining. The directions on the can made no mention of the grit to be used and I used 400 on the deck. It looked terrible, the stain would not soak into the wood. I went to the manufacturer's website and there it stated not to use greater than 180 grit. I sanded the deck back to bare wood with 180 sandpaper and tried again. It worked much better and the deck looks great.
This is a little like checking the care instructions after you buy the shirt.
Hang in there buddy, your build has always been an inspiration to me.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Sjors in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
A man after my own heart!!!!
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
The ship has come to a nice milestone so I decided to take some studio shots for this update.
This is what the set looks like. I pulled out the big Spiderlite soft boxes for the shoot.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from piperjoe in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
I have been working on the shields. Finding the right center ornament has been very time consuming. I settled on cone head Hungarian hob nails. The shield on the left is supplied in the kit. The hob nails are next in the image below. I cut the head off and ground it close to flat. The construction of the new shields is documented earlier in the log. To finish them off all that was done is to ease the edges, glue the nail head onto the center and odd a coat of wipe on poly without stain. I did tests and the poly alone worked best on the mahogany. The hob nails were right size and crudeness for a ninth century shield.
I finished 8 of them and here is how they will look on the ship.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Well I finally got the use of my right hand back. It took three weeks when I optimistically thought it would be one week. The little finger is still a long way from straight but it at least it is no longer (to paraphrase Bindy) stuck out like a poser drinking tea. I feel a little lame whining about my little finger while Vivian is still in serious dry dock.
I finished cutting out the gunwales and placing them. It took a few tries. The oak really is a nice improvement. I also completed the oak veneer on the keel between the scrollwork.
The next step before I start on the inside is the keel edge. It is plywood with the scrollwork and oak veneer applied. I could sand it and stain it but I think it will still be ugly. If I stain it a relatively light oak it will be hard to hide the layers.I have been thinking of covering it with oak veneer.
The Oseberg scrolls at the top of the stem and stern look rounded so that presents a problem wrapping all the way around. I will try dry fitting as many options as I can think of and decide which way to go. Suggestions always welcome.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
After a day of indecision when I woke up this morning I realized I had to cut the new planks. I removed the plywood planks and used them as the pattern for the new oak planks. I used 1/6th inch thick red oak to cut out the pattern with a scroll saw. I cut them a little oversize since the originals did not fit as well as they should. After dry fitting I did a little final shaping with a 1 inch belt sander. Finished them off with a couple of passes through the thickness sander.
Making them a little wider really helped to place them a little higher and get them level without leaving a lot of bulkhead to cut off.
Hopefully they will tie in nicely with the oak deck planks.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Bill Hime in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
I added oak veneer to the keel and it flushed up nicely to the scrollwork. The first two pictures show what it looks like without and with. I plan to cover the exposed plywood ends with oak and plank the deck as well with oak.
The gunwales or sheer strakes (or whatever the Viking equivalent is) are not the best kit pieces and you can see in the third picture they look sort of unexciting. They will have shields on the upper plank so most of it will be covered.
I clamped a couple of scrap pieces of oak to the ship to get an idea of how it will look.
I have enough oak on hand to do both sides I am just not sure if it is worth the time and effort. Also not sure if it will make the rest of the hull planks look weak. Stain tests with the oak and plywood might help me make up my mind. Advice is very welcome.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Bill Hime in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
I had to cut back the planks in the curve to allow the scrollwork to fit. Better that than reduce the size of the scroll which is the most important visual detail.
Von_Kossa and I both ran into the same problem with the top two planks that form a vertical band. If you follow the bulkheads those planks lift to the center. They are also a little fat on the ends. They must be dragged down to get them level which leaves a fair amount of bulkhead to be cut off. The bulkheads are also cut with the profile for those two planks too deep. It takes a lot of sanding to cut them back far enough that the planks lay against each other. It is still a little high (I missed it) which I will have to cut back. I am holding off on the scroll pieces on the inside of the stem and stern to avoid damage as I work.
This sure is fun!
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from rvchima in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
I stripped off the back layer of the inside piece of scrollwork with a scalpel blade so that it would lay flat with the rest of the scrollwork.
There is a spacer at the top of the scrollwork where it pinches together. It is sanded down and glued to the top of the structure. There is also a small spacer needed where the scrollwork meets.
Another small piece cut to fit at the bottom of the scroll. Also, a full hull length spacer at the top of the hull planking to give the last two vertical planks a place to land. Obechi was specified but it would not take the bend without cracking so I used basswood. I soaked it and bent it with a curling iron.
Added the last two vertical planks.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Please let me know if this is what you are looking for.
One problem I had was keeping the glue off of the outside surface where the planks overlapped. I applied the glue with a toothpick but when I clamped the planks out came the glue. I wiped it off immediately but I am still left with some sanding.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
The last couple of days have been spent figureing out what comes next. There are plywood strips glued to the keel all the way up the curves of the bow and stern to give a way to form the curve of the planking. Once the planking is in place the strips on each side have to be removed to allow the scrollwork to to be installed. The instructions (what little there are) don't mention it. I learned it from Von_Kossa build log and it makes the entire scroolwork installation look and work better. I used alcohol to soften the glue and they popped right off.
Next is the dry fit of the scroolwork. The scrollwork ties together with the last two planks at both ends. The top of the bulkheads where the last two planks go need a little more fairing.
It took me a while to figure it all out but with the help of coach Von_Kossa's log I am ready to glue for keeps tomorrow.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
I finished the lower part of the hull but had a little false start. On my first plank of the day I got the distance between the overlap of two planks about 2 mm too close and I did not notice until 3 planks later. I have always used water to loosen PVA glue but I heard alcohol mentioned on MSW and it sure works faster than water. Thanks for the tip.
I sure do like the lines of this ship. The Vikings must have been a tough bunch-crossing the ocean in an open boat.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Hi Bindy, Thanks, The planking so far has been uneventful. The planks are laser cut plywood (hard to fabricate on my own) so I did a quick dry fit of the last few planks to make sure that I did not run out of bulkhead before I ran out planks or vice versa. They fell in place nicely.
Hello Von_Kossa, I don't normally work so fast. I little bit of life caught up with me this weekend and I got very little time with my toys. Hopefully I will have more time this week.
Thank you both for looking in.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Bill Hime in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
I got a start at the planking. It is 1mm laser cut plywood and bends easily. Each plank is overlapped about 1 mm and needs a little adjustment to get it just right at both ends. I did a little coarse sanding but it has a long way to go.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from Bill Hime in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Hi David B and Anja,
Thanks for looking. I am very impressed by Von_Kossa's build. It is what inspired me to choose the Billing Boats kit.
Here are a few more pictures: I used aluminum angles to square up the bulkheads. Number 3 was slightly warped. I got rid of most of it when I added the strips at the top of the bulkheads and I can straighten the rest during planking. The kit supplies everything except the base board for a build board. I really like the ability to turn it upside down to plank. The last time I did it sort of freehand in my lap.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from maddog33 in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
Greetings Everyone,
This is my first build log and I missed the ritual box opening. I was already putting things together before I realized I should have photographed it first. The plans and directions are pretty sparse but it is a fairly straight forward ship. The keel had a slight bow in it but I used a little warm water and bent it a little past straight and it dried nice and flat. This is the kit version with the plywood scrollwork and shields. The keel and bulk heads leave a lot of exposed plywood edges and my plan is to cover them with oak veneer. The deck planking is Obechi which is soft, brittle and in my eye a little ugly. I have already ripped a few oak planks and they should work fine.
I am happy to be here and doing this. More soon.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from tadheus in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)
The ship has come to a nice milestone so I decided to take some studio shots for this update.
This is what the set looks like. I pulled out the big Spiderlite soft boxes for the shoot.
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Jack Panzeca got a reaction from GTM in Santisima Trinidad by GTM - OcCre - 1:90 - Kit Bashed
Hi Theo,
Very nice work, I look forward to seeing the lantern complete. Your project is a true work of art. Thank you for sharing.
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